viper501

I have the Porsche infant seat available if anyone needs it (less the deactivator bar but you can get that from Carnewal). I'll also have the next size up available in a few months as my son is on the verge of outgrowing it as well.

The infant seat can be used in the back while rear facing but it is a nightmare to get in there. Also, the front seat must be slid way way way forward. It is fine in an emergency but not good otherwise. With the airbag deactivator bar the seat works well up front.

Cleaning the IAC valve is very very very easy. Definite DIY and helped my (now deceased) engine's idle immensely.

Having gone through the replacement engine search for my 99 996 C2, I can tell you that the engines are 1) fairly rare from dismantlers and 2) very very very expensive for a used unknown condition engine. Most were qouting me between 5 and 6k for a used engine with no idea of the history or true condition. In fact, some didn't even know the mileage on the engine. When the 'new' Porsche reman'd engines were 8k and change from Sunset Porsche, it was a no-brainer for me, esp. with the two year unlimited mileage factory warranty. However, if I could have found one for 3 or 4k with a known history I would have probably jumped on it.

Good luck with the LSx project. I know it is considered a sacrelige but I think it could be really neat.

Oh, and I forgot to add, the Porsche reman'd engines are a great deal at 8k when you consider that it is *fully* dressed with everything replaced from injectors to wiring harnesses. The only thing that got reused on my car was one radiator hose fitting and the a/c compressor.

I'd check the cables first to see if there is something binding them... after that it starts getting ugly. Fast.

Pulling the front bumper cover is really quite easy and should be done annually to clean out the radiators. Look at Loren's DIY for the 3d radiator install for a how to remove the bumper cover. Just a few screws and some plastic clips.

Both of my horns themselves died within a short time of one another. The alarm uses a different horn entirely. To replace the horns I used a pair from Autozone. Pulled the front bumper cover and removed the factory units. Replaced them with the Autozone ones and worked great. Same location as stock.

Dharn is correct about the speakers. They are a joke. Unfortunately, you also need to replace the amp if you replace the speakers due to the impedance. As I recall, the factory speakers (in a non-MOST car) use a funky impedance that will make the factory amp incompatible with a 'normal' set of good quality speakers. Given the fairly reasonable prices on decent amps (JL Audio is my fav due to their level of quality and 'idiot-proofing') it isn't that much more to do the amp as well as the speakers. And since you've invested the money in an amp and speakers, what's a couple more coins for a nice receiver.... my how slippery this slope becomes. :D

Oh, and the other piece of advice is stay away, far far far away, from the dweebs at the big box electronic stores as far as the installation goes. If you can't do it yourself, which any sentient human really is capable of, find a *good* installer in your area and pay for a *quality* install. The garbage that I have seen the Best Buy / Circuit City types do to a car is simply criminal, not to mention a recipe for fire and electrical issues.

The big advantage to the cleanout is more than just temperature. The collection of gunk will rapidly degrade the radiators themselves leading to premature failure.

There was a design change for the fork arms. I can't really recall what the issue was but the factory redesigned the fork. As far as the slave goes, its one thing that you have easy access to while the transaxle is out for the clutch and the seals in it will break down over time. For as little as it costs, not a bad idea to go ahead and put a new one in while you're down there. It isn't that big of a deal if you don't but it is a good P.M. idea. I'm now wishing that I'd done mine while I was replacing the clutch and flywheel ... oh well.

BTW, if you become a contributing member you can find the TSB that talks about the fork update.

Jorge if you go aftermarket I would strongly recommend that you get it in urethane. Fiberglass has the potential for all kinds of issues in a bumper application.

Replacement of the bumper should be straightforward bolt on with the existing hardware. However, depending on the damage, you may need additional parts replace such as the undertray and ducting for the radiators ...

no, maybe, probably not, only for aural performance, no unless you really meant to say you got a turbo.

Dealer is a knob. Aerokit I ...

I'd be surprised if there was a CAT / MAF issue without a CEL. You can hook it up to a OBDII reader and see what values you are running. I'd keep checking the ATF levels after the transaxle gets warm to ensure that you have fully filled it. I'm almost afraid there may be some internal damage, such as to a torque converter, from running it low.

Another question is whether the car is 'stuck' in manual mode? Again, don't have too much experience with the Tip cars but just a thought.

Check Rennlist for a couple current threads on this. You can fit 6" drivers in the doors with little fuss. 5 1/4's are easier though. The stock speakers and Amplifier are garbage.

Given the temporal connection between the ATF service and the problem, I'd suspect that there may not be enough fluid in the transmission. I'd check that first. If it is low, you might be OK with just adding additional fluid but I'd document it with the dealer who did the service in case there is latent damage to the transaxle.

I'm voting switch ... again. :D

Definitely don't buy that car if the shop who is selling doesn't want you to have it checked out by a dealer (10 miles.. come on). Why don't you let them drive it to the porsche dealer and you just follow in your own car... Any hesitations regarding this should make you stop buying this car immediately, something must be wrong!

Just like vette mentioned, just don't fall in love with the first car you see until you are absolutely sure it is in mint condition.

Good luck man, this is really the most fun part.. just finding your car.. B)

+1. Run, don't walk, away from that dealer.

While I have 18's, I did the same basic thing you are suggesting. The stock tire didn't fill up the rim and appeared undersized so I upped the fronts to 235's and the rears to 285's. Handles the same and looks better. Also provides some level of protection for the rim flange.

While you're in there make sure that the fork arms are updated and suggest you replace the slave as a PM.

I've seen carpets posted on Ebay quite a few times but would caution you that this doesn't look like a job for the faint of heart. The carpets appear to be semi-molded to the shape of the floorpan and will require removal of the seats and center consoles. Lots of work there ...

This has been done a few times and as tholyoak mentioned he has posted some great info here. You should also look at Rennlist as well as I think there are a few that have been posted on there as well.

I think that is kinda high but for the other items that you may have done while in there. Parts for the clutch / pp / update for fork release should be about 500, iirc. I probably would leave the RMS alone if it isn't leaking but would update the case bolts and the IMS bolts while in there. The flywheel can't be resurfaced as mentioned, at least that I have ever heard, but it may not need replacement. While you're in there, I'd replace the clutch slave cylinder as a P.M. issue. I think the labor charges are probably a little high for a shop that knows what they're doing/done it before.

Will,

I'm just down in Cola so I'm happy to help as well.

I'll chime in since you asked.

1. I agree w/ Loren. I have the x74 in my 99 Coupe and it is stiff. Really. It is not bone jarring but definitely not something that I would recommend for a cab car given the decreased stiffness and potential flexing of the chassis and resultant issues.

2. Protection plate is *cheap* insurance. It should already be on the car. If you lower it, even more so.

3. Install of the ROW M030 is going to be easy since everything is pre-assembled. You *can* do it yourself in your garage with a little time and the help of a friend. If not, I'd find a *qualified* indy that you trust and have some experience with. You will need an alignment afterward.

4. As Loren said, No.

Kevin, not sure your weight is correct for the Al block LS.