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cayenneturbo
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Everything posted by cayenneturbo
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pcarroll - this is now my situation. I replaced blade then lubricated the spring. We had a lot of rain passed few days and the wiper is loosing contact along the center of the arm almost through out the entire wipe now. I was going to order a replacement. I went to check the bolts since its getting worse and the bolt/screw is rotating together and can not tighten or loosen.
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Unfortunately replacing the wipers and lubricating the spring did not fix the problem. I guess I can try removing the wiper arm and re-inserting to see if it is seated properly, but it was working fine before the windshield removal.
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My wiper blade replacements just came in last night, I was really hoping that it would have fixed it. I will try lubricating the spring at the arm today.
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I just had my cracked windshield replaced and my passenger side windshield wiper is not making full contact with the new windshield at the center of the wiper. Does anyone know how to fix this or is this just a case of the wiper being excessively worn from previous windshield? It looks like it is properly positioned and I checked to ensure nuts are secured.
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My car started acting weird upon start up, the "start engine" battery warning light appeared after I started car, then upon starting again it flickered and all setting were reset, clock reset to 12:00 etc. I placed on CTEK charger tonight but I am pretty sure I need to replace my battery and was wondering if both the rear and front batteries are the same. I have receipt for one of the batteries, it was a Duralast H8-DLG. I recall replacing both batteries within months of each other and can recall which is which. Thank you all!
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I have yet to see a salvage yard with a Cayenne much less a turbo. I wish I could be so lucky. So I just bought a supposedly new VW/Audi/Porsche tire compressor on eBay. It uses same gauge and I will just switch them out, $70 which is much cheaper than the $300+ quote.
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The gauge on my tire filler hose cracked. Does anyone know if these can be replaced and where you can get it? I have been trying to find either the part number for the gauge or the entire hose without any luck.
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Just moved to Celebration FL area and I was hoping to find a good Indy shop. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated, there are numerous in a Google search which is making me to be real cautious. Thx
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In that case I wish I could use the H7 bulb (additional Highbeam) as DRL's since they would not be point up in oncoming traffic.
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My Xeon bulbs are gettting dimmer so I figure they are ready to go. They are the originals so 10 years was a great run for these bulbs! I bought the Philips Xtreme Vision D1S which is supposed to farther, either way it will most likely be a dramatic diference with what I have now. In doing research about how to replace bulb, I see on pg 331 of manual that they list the high beam as an additional high beam. Does that mean the headlights get brighter and the additional just are angled higher or does the Xenon ight change positions/level for a higher angle?
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This by far is the most overused comeback on EVERY forum I frequent. Have you ever searched and could not find what you were looking for? The fact that people actually take time out of their day to type this is beyond me. If you don't know then just keep quiet, this is a forum for petes sake. A place where you ask question, answer questions or simple read. Being obnoxious and argumentative can be saved for those lefty political blogs. Just my 2 cents.
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Wow, I've got about 140K on the car. I'm real lucky then. Does everyone wait until they die or replace earlier? I'd hate to replace to early if it's all in my head.
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Trying to do a search as whether our Bi-Xeon lights ever need replace, aside from burn out. I have an 04 and just replace my clear bra which included headlights, so lens are crystal clear. What got me to thinking was when another car pulled along side of me and his headlights appeared to reach farther and where brighter....I actually felt as if I had halogen. These are the original bulbs so they are 10 years old now, do they need replacing? I dont want to throw money away if OEM replacement bulb will give me same results. If I do or should replace, is OEM the only way to go or are there brighter / better alternatives. Im not looking for that pubescent purple / fake HID look a lot of the ricers use, just the lighting up most of the road as legally or illegally possible, LOL
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Well its close to 4 years to the month since my last brake change. Last time I did both rotors and pads. I used Hawk HPS, was not to happy with the bite loss, but reallllllllly happy with low to no dust. This time around I am only going to change the pads. I was wondering if anyone has any other thoughts on Hawks Performance Ceramic vs the Hawk HPS. I was doing a search to find for myself and found this I posted 4 years ago.
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Let us know what part your replaced, my 04 has been doing the same thing intermittently. I am now in the habit of making my way around to double check the door because sometimes it will lock and other it wont... but it always unlocks.
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So after so research I found out that it was Magnesium Chloride road salt slash road dust inhibitor. So the area I was in was treated with the stuff in the summer to control dust. So the ground theoretically was saturated, although dry. When the snow started melting it created large puddles of this slurry mix. Plus the road there were also treated with the stuff too. My problem was that I went from 32' temp to 80' degree temp in one day and the stuff just dried and baked on. I also took to an RV/Boat and car paint shop and they have a lift and will detail the undercarriage and clay, compound/polish the exterior where the other guys could not get all the way. I'll take some pics in the am.
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I live in AZ, Phoenix area. Last weekend we drove up north to Flagstaff to go skiing and sledding. Nice thing about AZ is in 2 hours you can go from desert to snow caps. On day 3 it started getting warmer up there and snow started to melt. In one area called "Wing Mountain Snow Play" it is all off road or dirt road. It was very muddy and slushy. This is where most of the mud go on the car. When we got back I ran car through car wash and most of mud came off, but there was still spray pattern on one side, wheel wells covers as well as undercarriage. I had a detail that I bought a few months ago from car wash and decided to use. They try to tell me that its not mud, that its paint. I was like, for this to be paint I would have had to drive through a deep paint puddle because it is evenly spread throughout all 4 wheel wells and undercarriage. Luckily have the clear bra and nothing sticks to that, and detailer got most of visible mud off of paint but you can still feel it if you run your hands over it. But tailpipes, wheel wells, back of brakes and inner wheels look terrible. Does anyone have suggestions on getting this stubborn mud off?
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Don't know how long this has been going on which is scary, but right rear passenger door will not lock via key fob or any interior buttons. It will also not signal/alarm if the door is open while in motion. What happened was my daughter ran up to car and opened door. I thought I forgot to lock it, but then wife couldn't get in and my door was still locked. So it will not lock electronically - interior switch or key fob It will not signal or alarm if the door is opened while driving. I can manually lock using red manual lock switch above child safety switch. After doing this the door will unlock using key fob or electronic switches. I just did a search and cant find anything, Thank for any help !
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Yes to to the bluetooth streaming. My daughter hi jacks it all the time. Im on the west side, let me know when you are in the area.
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I used a step drill bit to make a hole dead center. I routed the cables along passenger side under carpet/door sills. Once bumper is off you have a lot of room to route wires inside. I love Navi and use quite a bit. It works seamlessly with iPhone, you can also have accounts so it will change from me to my wifes settings with a press of a button. If I was to do it all over again I would still go this route.
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Good to go, just want to get resolved before Arizona summer. It started this summer, but only on highway at high speed. The temp would rise past 220 and hit around 240, but if I slowed down the temp would drop. I would run 180 if stuck in traffic in 110 degree heat, but run hot on hwy. I noticed that the loud airplane sound ( I guess fan at high speed) was no longer present after driving, I just did the pipes/water pump etc 10K ago.
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I just replaced the big radiator fan. With A/C on, the fan works. With A/C off the fan comes on at around 220ish range, low speed. When I shut the car off the fans do not stay on. Using Durametric there are no codes. It is winter so its cold out, so the car runs 180. Does anyone know at what temp or condition would cause the fan to kick in at high speed or what conditions to induce the fans to remain on after the car is off for that "after cooling" period. Much Thx
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I have a 04' Turbo, cooling system replaced about 30K ago. Now that winter is upon us this may sound like an odd question. It was 40' (F) yesterday and I was waiting in the parking lot to drop off kids. When I looked down the car temp was at 220+ but not yet 240. The A/C was off and I had turned down fan/heater 10 min earlier since car was hot inside. I turned the A/C on and the temp went back to 180, if I turn A/C off the temp rises. This is while parked. I will try using the heat tonight when I pick up my wife, I dont know if the A/C fan kicks on for heat. No codes on Durametric, otherwise the car runs fine and does not get hot in traffic. Then again I usually have the A/C on. Any suggestions?
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Hello all, I just did a search and could not find the thread that I recall some years ago about cleaning the white markings off of the roof rails. If someone could help me out it will be greatly appreciated. I am going to do a head to toe detail and this is at the top of my list. Whats also on top is removing my clear guard. It is no longer clear and smooth, plus there are some tears. I just need someone in this area to replace it. It does wonders. Not one rock chip on my hood or bumper. Thanks
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I was looking at a pic from Porsche catalog and it looked like they had both the mesh divider/curtain and the cargo cover installed at the same time, I didn't think this was possible. Has anyone been able to do this?
