utkinpol

You do know that you can call softronic guys and ask them to mod your file any way you want? Like to keep rev limit as stock (which is 7300 BTW, not a 7000)? Put on and off sport mode? Most gains from flash you get from pushing engine out of smog compliance limits enforced by legislature. That is what those 93 octane tuned maps essentially do. Same about 200cell cats. Properly done flash file just opens up stock engine to what is was supposed to be. And also are extreme flashes with pushing rev limit to 9K, pushing maps out of temperature guidelines, suppressing generation of any sort of error codes, meth/NO support etc - wild ricer sort of modding. General regular softronic flash should be perfectly safe.

Is there any person here who have installed X51 996 oil pan into 997 3.6L engine successfully? What specific trimming did it require?

Check out my blog on this Product claims and dynos -- and reality Great Blog post. That seems to be my feelings, 40 years of German engineering and a $500 chip is gonna give me +20HP .. right :-|. That was my first thought. Have you ever heard of a Veteran 911 driver who has had success in ECU land. A 997 Turbo is way out of my bracket BTW. Perhaps I am trying to squeeze blood from my new toy. So look at this graph and make your own decisions on what possible and what is not. Look at 5500-5600 rpm area. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/album.p...;pictureid=8782 Cool thanks for the info, which brings me to the $$Million question. Are you running a tuned ECU chip on your 06? if so where did you get it? Don't get me wrong all the DYNO info out there is nice, but due to the world of Photoshop it simply doesn't mean much. I would like to keep this thread open, what I would much rather hear is from someone with a few hundred post tell me "Hey I got a tuned ECU chip and IT ROCKS or IT SUCKS". Thanks again for the info BTW. Between first and last runs: New spark plugs, new oil, K&N oiled air filter, IPD Plenum, Fabspeed X-Pipe 200 cell cats, Fabspeed Maxflo sport mufflers, Softronic ECU flash. I already explained about Softronic - look it up.

Check out my blog on this Product claims and dynos -- and reality Great Blog post. That seems to be my feelings, 40 years of German engineering and a $500 chip is gonna give me +20HP .. right :-|. That was my first thought. Have you ever heard of a Veteran 911 driver who has had success in ECU land. A 997 Turbo is way out of my bracket BTW. Perhaps I am trying to squeeze blood from my new toy. So look at this graph and make your own decisions on what possible and what is not. Look at 5500-5600 rpm area. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/album.p...;pictureid=8782

Check out my blog on this Product claims and dynos -- and reality And the point is? Tuning is possible and power gains are real. Faking dyno results is also possible as well as making dyno runs on same car showing completely different 'gains' on a same car. It is responsibility of a person who works on car to ensure to the best of his abilities if any measurements were performed correctly.

Is it 'safe' to mix M1 0w40 with M1 15w50 if I drain, say, a half gallon of current oil and add same amount of 15w50?

My current avg milage is about 16.8. on 6th gear at 3K rpm - 22mpg. Driving it at auto-x at redline - about 11mpg. Car is 06 997 C2.

Check out vividracing.com offering softronic flash product. very nice mod, you`ll get 93 octane adjusted maps and can have permanent sport throttle mode activated. you will get a cable and will be able to flash it back and forth from modded to original file.

Hi, Just curious to ask - several times during last season after quite intense auto-x runs (1.5 miles) engine had very pronounced metal knocking sound right after run which would slowly fade away, it would be knocking at same rate as exhaust sound while running on idle, if I would step on throttle it would also increase accordingly but get subdued and then overpowered by engine roar but not increased exponentially, so I figured it was not valves (hopefully). What could it be than - an oil separator valve? But why? Is it typical? I run regular 0w40 mobil 1 oil, should I perhaps get 5w50 or 10w50 to remedy this? or should it be simply ignored? I tried to run my car very heavy on a street for several times revving it to max and heating it up and listened to engine - sound never appeared so it seems to be related to hard cornering only most likely. Is it typical for 3.6L 997 C2 engines? Should I get something for this, don`t know, like 996 X51 modded to 997 oil pan? Or it is not relevant?

Better way to go would be to install PSS10 coilovers but an issue with lowered car (PSS10 will drop it down for an inch) is a serious one - I would literally take a ruler and measure all driveways and bumps on your regular routes and think twice prior to doing it. Coilovers together with GT3 adjustable lower control arms will make car much sportier and allow up to -3 degrees of front camber to completely eliminate understeer. Great mod, but, lowered car may become unusable for any daily routines.

Then if you get to it - look if you can for cars '06 and older, if used, preferably with CPO status. As of non-essential options look for full leather cars - it is very nice to have this option. PSE in my opinion is waste of money, better buy aftermarket mufflers if you find that you want more aggressive sound. heated seats are nice, also if you get sport chrono and electric seats then you`ll get some additional nice capabilities like memory for different ignition keys (seats adjustment, etc), your passenger side mirror will be able to flip down when you go in reverse, etc. You can also get all this with aftermarket units - like mods4cars or you can get bluetooth/ipod integration with dension or mobridge units - but at same time you can search for car with stock options equipment. do not pass on navigation - it is very convenient and great feature, i got it installed after I bought my car at dealer and don`t regret it. not sure what else to say - enjoy your search process and do a lot of research prior to buying your car. look on this forum and on http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997-31/ you`ll be amazed how much info and collective wisdom is collected there. to choose car right is very tricky with 997 model. do not hurry with this.

Why are you so sure you need stiff sport suspension for a daily driver car? I would do first proper alignment: -1 degree camber in front (max you can get with stock), -1.5 in rear, toe front degress .02, rear degress .14. That will almost eliminate understeer on street conditions. For serious auto-x you would need to have more camber in front - will need GT3 LCAs to be installed (up to -3 degrees front camber) and adjustable sway bars. But still can drive on stock shocks. And then if you track car seriously - next step it to put limited differential and then you can go with stiff suspension - essentially most people have PSS9, PSS10 or KW v3 coilovers to choose from. All that is subjective to some degree, my only point is that it is probably not right to underestimate potential of stock 911 suspension. It is more than capable and replacing it on a DD car may not necessarily do a good thing, you need to be quite sure what is it you want or attempt to fix with this swap.

I did read similar posts from other folks and no one seemed to find actual reason of that behavior. To me excessive smoke on overheated cylinder means most likely it is you get oil in there while some gap between some parts in engine assembly somewhere increases just enough to allow oil to penetrate inside. May be it`s rings, may be something else. Who knows. Common sense here dictates that with all other things being equal heavily tracked car has its limits of durability and if you can change it for newer vehicle - it is most likely the best solution here. Otherwise best thing to do would be just ignore this and keep adding oil.

Well, yes and no. On my car after ECU flash, plenum, fabspeed x-pipe cats and mufflers - here is the link to dyno charts. Of course it is result of everything done as a whole, not a single add-on. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/album.p...;pictureid=8782 It is mustang dyno, so actual max power after tuneup - 289 horses - matches that average C2S could show on mustang dyno. Now, it is right that C2S engine can be tuned into higher numbers, but 3.6L engine revvs higher and more durable, so, it is better candidate for extremes - like supercharging or turbo.

It is very interesting and quite important thing - to make right first choice. C2 and C2S are both built from same platform. Both have chance to be heavily optioned. Now, you have to make you decision toward what is it you going to do with your car and look at it from this perspective. So, as you know most C2S comes with xenon lights, PASM, 3.8 engine, bigger self-adjusting clutch, bigger brakes, also sport chrono option is most usually there. C2 in worst option scenario will have nothing of it. I am yet to see one with no xenons - but it is possible. Now, I did choose C2 for myself. Why? First of all I was not going to resell car any time soon. If you plan to sell it - go with C2S as they are much better marketable than C2. In average with similar set of options C2S usually costs $10K-$15K more than C2. Now why I did get C2 - I did not care about PASM as ultimately I am putting PSS10 bilstein coilovers for suspension and GT3 lower control arms. Exhaust is already swapped for 200 cell x-pipe cats from fabspeed with their maxflo mufflers. ECU is softronic with permanent sport mode activated - it eliminates need for sport chrono. Now last step for my car will be to put brembo brakes and most likely - new TPC turbo kit. Pint here is - with goals to highly modify your car it makes no practical sense to pay for C2S in front as all you get essentially for this price difference is .2L engine displacement in the end, considering all the rest gets replaced anyway. On other side of things - if you do not plan to rebuild your car and treat it as an overgrown Lego toy - C2S delivers you better package from the beginning. Keeping all that in mind you should also realize that most usual reason for people to buy C2S is psychological - even base C2 has much more potential than average non-pro driver can extract from this car. But C2S has nice red brake calipers, and C2 - does not, so, most folks may get into constant frustration over this. I find it to be pretty silly, but this side of story should not be underestimated - it is a big purchase and you got to be sure about what is it you`re doing so it would be no remorse afterwards. A lot of people buy C2 and live happy with it. A lot of other people realize they need best of the best and they buy turbo or GT3.

Uau, that's one scary post. Especially after that other one about engine light being on all the time. I would say - it is time to see what dealer of good independent mechanic will say. Nice thing to read about as I just was thinking about getting SC or turbo on my '06 C2. :( Please let us know if you find out what it was.

mobridge`s benefit is that it has both ipod and phone integration in same unit. I use mobridge. I know that dension is more popular as it seems, may be they have better marketing base. installation for any of those units is very simple - you simply put it into optical ring and provide permanent 12v non-interruptible power to it. it wakes and goes to sleep based on activity on optical link wire.

I bought complete kit from suncoast porsche shop in the end after trying to find it on Ebay. My car is '06 made after 06/06 - means it required most recent version of DVD drive, horizontal. I saw only vertical ones on Ebay, so, went to suncoast. They had this kit for $2300 or so, it has all harnesses, optical links, etc. Issue is - if your car never had cd changer nor navigation - most likely nothing in your trunk is pre-wired, so you need all those optical wires and links and they are hard to find. Ebay usually has only DVD units without any accessories. Then I got it installed at dealer for $500 as it happened it required some drilling to properly put optical links into the car. So, if you plan on DIY I cannot say much, unfortunately. Search online - for DVD drives you`ll see there 2 pairs of part numbers - one pair for vertical drives, one pair for horizontal ones. If you have car made before 06/06 - most likely you will need part with smaller number. Chassis number you get from your vin - http://www.performance2and4.co.uk/chassisnumbers.htm

I run on PS2 and like em. From other forums folks say Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 are ok, from cheap side - Nitto Invo is so-so and Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 should be a bit better.

Congratulation on new engine! Which one did you get exactly? Do you know?

I do smell my burning tires on auto-x but do not smell any engine oil in excess. But 1 day on auto-x burned oil from full to one mark down. So some oil does get burned there, depending of exact definition of 'spirited'.

So, no one really knows anything about those schematics? How exactly outputs on plug B brown from PCM interfere with outputs from ASK stock amplifier? I also do not see at all center speaker out on PCM itself - is it getting only from ASK amp? I cannot believe no one here knows anything about 997 audio.

Hi, I found this older thread while searching for stock 997 audio upgrade solutions. could anybody please comment - where exactly get stock speakers connected to if not to stock amp outputs? I had a simplistic plan to put additional power amp and feed it from stock amp outputs, at same time replacing stock speakers to better ones but if there is any additional circuitry there in the car I am not really sure if it can be done. I looked up wiring diagrams of 997 and at first glance nothing there suggests any additional connectivity or links to speakers other than from stock amp outputs so my initial plan was to disconnect wires from speakers input on amp connector and hook up there something like couple of Infinity Kappa Fours in between from stock amp outputs and speaker inputs. Now if this amplified signal travels somewhere else instead of going directly to speakers I am not sure if it even can be done. What is it there in 997 and how can all speakers still make any sound if amp is taken out completely? Also, could anybody please provide mounting depth and technical specs of stock non-bose speakers and detailed specs of stock amplifier.

Hmm... Not quite positive about it but I believe mirror has its own sensor and it is not day/night type. I am actually almost sure mirror is pretty self-sufficient and only takes power from a car. There is no sensor output there. the only usable one is stock sun sensor. I just really want to get to it somehow as to install one more sensor will be a tricky job, not to mention all aftermarket ones are quite ugly from what I`ve seen. Challenge now is to find where does that wiring from stock sensor go and measure it when car is on. If it delivers logical 12v - it can be probably used directly on a relay. But I suspect it may not be so easy as usually such sensors deliver much lower voltage and it has to be amplified somewhere. I really cannot comprehend the logic of Porsche to actually put **** sensor in but not to wire it into beam light system.

I keep studing wiring diagrams and got very confused now - apparently every Porsche does have sun sensor already. It is shown on Sheet 3 CU Rear diagram and it apparently connected to CU Climatronic, contact B8. But I cannot find any day/night output from none of CUs. Perhaps I can try to hook a relay into sensor output directly... Hmm...