mcmike27

Yes... we have a similar 2001 S that we acquired with 16k miles....it looks like new but allot of those rubber and plastic bits are well past there prime with age....you should also look at the rubber bushings and motor mount mine was starting to tear and needed to be replaced with only 18k miles on it but the rubber was hard and fatigued from age alone... my drop links are getting hard and brittle so they are next...

Wait until it get warm outside and the channel will be much more pliable and easier to insert...I also use the back end of a screwdriver with a ball on the end like a craftsman screwdriver works like a charm and they do pop out so I redo once or twice a year.

Having owned a 'family' only owned 98 986 base Boxster I can honestly say the best 'upgrades' I have done are the following:

160 deg thermostat (with new water pump OEM only)

Boxster S oil cooler (bigger for more cooling)

Stainless steel braided brake lines

Short shifter (personal preference I like crisp shorter throw)

5W-40 Driven oil (best thing I have done) 125k miles runs like a top

L&N spin on oil adapter w/ NAPA Gold filter and magnetic drain plug 

Hawk HP plus brake pads (we autocross it) stock rotors

Regular fuel filter changes

IMS, new clutch and RMS at 105k

And it got new springs and struts at 100k miles

No Hp gain but allot of peace of mind and smiles because the harder I drive it the better it runs...

Just my $.02

m2

Driven DT40.... after talking to Lake Speed at TechTactics for several years it's all I use now in my 2001 S...when the Macan needs its next change at 60k...it will be DI-5W30...

Just my $.02

Cheers 

m2

Follow up with PNA and COMPLAIN we just replaced the TC on our 2017 Base Macan and were told the warranty on these 'KNOW defective' parts was pushed out to 2023.

I hope yours has been fixed...we just had ours replaced its back to 'normal'

Best of luck

M2

THANK YOU THANK YOU this worked and Becker wanted $175.00 plus shipping to 'repair' a broken CD eject mech...which obviously is working fine just in electronics lock up mode  🙂

I was able to get a 'almost' like new one from LA Dismantlers...after cleaning it up it looked like new. Be careful when you go to remove the screws in the front pillar... they are held on by a cap nut on the inside of the pillar.... if one breaks free... well you can imagine my issue....the dealer corrected it quickly, I on the other hand struggled....

A quick dose of penetrating fluid will loosen up the nut /screw. Then you can easily replace it.

Cheers,

m2

Sorry to hear and see that PCB... being in that industry more than likely that DME board is not salvageable...you have exposed copper traces and water has penetrated under the components themselves. That's a new DME for sure and a very detailed flushing of the drains in the rear...

This supplier can also help with a waterproof box

Best of luck...

One of our local independents has trouble shoot this 'exact' same gremlin for years and finally found a stronger spring to swap out in the latch mechanism. It took him all of 15 mins to remove the latch take out the old springs and replace them with the new stronger ones. It's worked perfectly ever since. 

As a new 2017 Macan 2.0L owner, it's the baby brother to the bigger power plants for sure but in Sport Mode it does very easily get out of it's own way quite nicely. On the highway you have no real feeling of speed until you realize you are passing cars and then glance down and go UH OH I'm 20 mph OVER the posted limit. It's time to pay closer attention. With the PDK in 7th gear you are flying and don't realize it. I have had it up to 110 and it felt like 55. ROCK SOLID and very quiet.

Great vehicle so far and it has all the bells and whistles we need in a compact SUV. I believe they have hit another home run and everywhere we take it someone askes us what that is.  :)

Regards,

m2

I have been using the DT40 product for the past 2 years in our 1998 base Boxster having switched from the Castrol product since the car now has 119k miles and a recent IMS upgrade while doing the clutch. From a very UN scientific opinion I have noticed smoother initial startups and a 'quieter' engine especially after not having run the car in the non drivable winter months here in central Pa. The local indie we use has also switched over to the DT40 product and it is their oil of choice in most applications.

We have a 'family' owned since new 1998 Base Boxster Arctic Silver Met

Just hit 118k

AOS Replaced  2014

IMS  just replaced 2015

RMS just replaced 2015

1st new clutch since 1998 just replaced with new flywheel 2015

Front and rear Springs and struts replaced 2014

Sway bar bushings replaced 2014

Coolant Res replaced 2014

Trans fluid changed 2013

Optima Red top fitted 2014

Boxster S Oil cooler fitted with 160 deg thermostat 2013

Everything has been kept as original as possible as this is a car we hope to pass onto our son as it has more sentimental value than monetary value. It was my wife's Uncles daily driver, then onto my father inlaw before passing to us.

Normal oil and maint done yearly since new in 1998 we have all the records and docs for every service since new in 1998

The car is Ax'ed every year and runs like a top!

:)

For what's it's worth we recently replaced our stock Porsche battery with the Optima Redtop that is specified for our 986 Boxster with the custom alum base plate and couldn't be happier. If your so inclined go to their web site and look at that as a possible sub for the OEM battery.

^{Adam, glad it wasn't anything too terrible.  Our 986 Boxster had a similar issue the oil filler tube after 17 became brittle and had a hairline split and it needed to be replaced.}

+1 on JFP's reccomendation. I use the spray dry teflon with the little yellow hose that comes with the can for pin point accuracy and I clean my Boxsters top with 303 fabric top cleaner then I use the 303 High tech fabric guard protectant on the top. When applying the protectant use losts of old towels and 'mask' off any thing that could contact the product. Spray lightly and evenly then wipe with a damp 'new' sponge. Let it dry and it works better than any other product I have tried and it has UV protection in it. Water beads up and runs off it lasts for 2 years.  I use the 303 Aerospace Protectant for all of my hoses, weather stripping, dash.... it dries then buff it with a microfiber towel then dash it will have a light shine but it wont attact dust quickly and it has the same UV protectant in it. All of their products are amazing.

The fuel changes in the winter months and is refined differently to conform to emmision standards they normally switch over to the winter blend around Oct and then switch back to the summer blend around late Feb early March. I have been seeing this drop in MPG in our Boxster ever since we acquired it an have been driving it year round in central Pa. I asked one of our local excellent idies about it and he brought up the change in the mixes based on seasonal usage. Sure enough when the summer blend comes out my MPG goes right back to the the normal level.

The ONLY product I use on our 986 Boxster top is either the Ragg Topp product line or the 303 Product line of cleaner and sealer both are easy to use an appy just DONT get any of the sealer on ANY metal or plastic as it will leave a white 'haze'. I just carefully apply the sealer with a towel placed next to any places where I dont want it to touch then I use a soft clean sponge to wipe the excess in with and it looks perfect and repels water for 1 year at a time. Water just beads up and runs off the top. During the driving months I use the lint roller to remove dirt and dust from the top in between washings and it keeps the top looking like new. I also have used our garage wall vac with the brush head to vaccum the top when it gets really dusty. I hope this helps.

I use the Jectron product from LIQI MOLY that I get from our local NAPA store they have 2 products Fuel Injection Cleaner and Valve Clean. I use both twice a year before my oil changes. 108k miles and runs like a top. I also make sure to change the fuel filter when called for and we have Shell gas here in central Pa so thats what I run in our Boxster.

Jim, sorry to hear about that... we have a 98 Boxster like you and I have replaced the center and rear section on our car. You can do it with just a jack but you have to work one side at a time and will need a helper to just hold the shielding up while you put the plastic nuts in place on one side. The parts are not that expensive and can easily be ordered. If you have a local Porsche dealership it might be best to pick them up from them as they are big and shipping them could be costly. Call SUNSET and ask beore you buy them about the shipping costs. The sheilding is important for all of the reasons mentioned in the prior posts dont neglect to replace them.

Safe travels

M2

+1 on JFP's advice on the new water pump, 160F T-stat from L&N along with an 'S' cooler ( got mine from a dismantler from a 'S' Bxter for about $80.00 just make sure it's been flushed out and allowed to dry before you use it). I would also 'add' to your wish list the L&N spin on oil adapter and the mag oil plug all were VERY worth while and easy to install. Our Boxster runs cooler and there have been NO issues with the add on's. Spark plugs and a fuel filter would be a good idea as long as your wrenching on it now. Good luck...

On our 98 BASE 986 my wife's Uncle had the stock muffler taken off and sent to a local muffler specialist and they cut the top off gutted it and rewelded the top back on, not entirely 'elegant' but once reinstalled you cant see it and it sounds very nice....low growl noise at idle 'spirited volume' under accl... the only down side is the tell tale drone at about 2.7k to 3k once past those rpm's it sounds great...of course with the top down who cares... let's just say you now hear our Boxster before you see it :) our local dealer's service scheduler just shakes his head but have on the downlow the mechs told me they love the unique sound it makes.

Or easy I love mine and have the whole kit as well I just stock up on the filters from NAPA and crush rings from the dealer and change my oil. It's the easiest to do of our 4 cars by far because of the L&N system. Kudos to JFP for letting me know about when we 1st aquired our 98 986. :)

I have had this fault on 2 occasions...on the 1st the dealer blew out the evap line with compressed air....all good..the next time it happend I overfilled the gas tank and it threw the code. I reset it and am wary about overfilling the tank at the gas station. It hasnt reoccured

:)

Armed with the parts information and knowing the service mgr at our local Porsche dealer has opened up a good dialog between myself and the dealer. When it comes to these types or standard maint issues I always point out that I understand what the 'book' says when it comes to labor and for some jobs it makes sense. On these types of occasions I have had some success in 'asking' for the actual time the tech spends in doing the repair and much to my surprise they have come way off the 'dealer' Porche book price. Not always but it doesnt hurt to ask. Also I have had great success in having parts conversations with the parts mgr in getting reduced prices far less than dealer 'list' prices. They run a seperate P/L and he would rather sell me the parts at a 10% over his cost markup than lose the business to Suncoast or some other place. it also doesnt hurt that I throw in a case of good german beer every Jan when I take the car in for its yearly inspection. That $35.00 investment has saved me $$$$. :)