lithium1330

I'm 2.5mi from downtown MV. I did the coding for my turn-signal - I see it as a safety feature. I also replaced the orange incandesent bulb with LED bulb. Here is the video:

I'll PM you my contact info.

Thanks!

Chris

Hey rymo926... I'm in Sunnyvale.

Depending on your driving habits and needs. If the car is primarily for commuting... you may be able to go with other tires, like the Hankook Ventus EVO v12. I had those on my '08 Boxster S for about 17k miles, including 10+ days of Sebring DE (solo group) and 3 trips from S. FL to North Carolina (1600 RT on HWY) for BRBS + all the shenanigans through the twisty & mountain roads (add'l 500miles on backroads). The set of Hankooks can be had for about 350 - 400 less than a set of Super Sports. Hankook v12's are very good tires for those on a limited tire budget and don't mind giving up some sticky-ness to save some money - I'm not saying the Ventus V12's drive like all-season tires tires, they are not... as I consistently running 2:40's @ Sebring with some traffic.

I recently changed from the Hankooks to the Super Sports because I reason I do spend at around 6 - 8 days a year at the track, and I do take the car up to the mountains each year where I want to get the most out of the tires at these two things I love to do. So, for me, it was worth the additional $400 for the set with the Super Sports. That said, if I'm not focused on DE's or these road trips I'd probably stay with the Hankook's. They are good tires - google them and you'll find good very reviews - and the fact that you can get a set of 19" good tires for about $850 for the set... that's pretty darn good. If you use them primarily for commuting with occasional trips along HWY-1... you will be able to get 30k miles out of them.

So, I tried (keyword) replacing the front side signals (blinkers) with canbus LED bulbs (built-in load resistors).

After I put the LED bulbs in and I turn the lights on (parking or headlights), the side lights no longer light up. The tail lights will come on, the city lights come on, but nothing from the side markers (the orange light housing that most everyone do as their 1st mod). Anyways, the lights will blink fine (I had it re-programmed to blink as indicators) when I put on the turn signal, hazards or arm/disarm alarm. But the lights won't come on now. Even more strange, when I put the incandescent bulbs back in, the incandescent bulbs also do not come on (again, they blink just fine with turn signal/haz, etc.).

I just quickly tried with a (low end) volt meter to the bulb socket and it seems I get a steady 10v when I turn the lights on, but and nothing changes when I turn the lights off and on again. What should I be looking for? It is as if there isn't sufficient current/power going to the LED or incandescent bulb to power it. I have since put the incandescent bulbs back in, disconnect the battery for about 15 sec, try again... but still nothing changed. Any idea/suggestion? Thanks!

Downloadable DIY guide on how to replace the engine air filter on your 987.1 Boxster. Should also be applicable for Cayman. Enjoy!

PDF available here: https://www.box.com/s/2b0a1132ac51680b0d6b

Here is my write up on installing the short shift on the 987.1.. the procedure should also apply to the 997.1 since they share the same part #s. Possibly work for .2 also.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41495-center-console-removalshort-shift-kit-install/page__pid__220987#entry220987

does anyone have l.e.d type bulbs fitted in there number plate lights on there 987 ? ive bought several ones all claiming to have resistors in for canbus wiring ect , but they last about a day before going out ???

thanks in advance

In my 2008 Boxster S, there is no need for resisters. I got a pair of LED festoon bulbs from superbrightled.com and they just worked out of the box. No light out error, not need to wire a resistor inline to the bulb.

I've heard good things about Hankook EVO 12..... and cost about 1/2 that of PS2's. For everyday street used and sprinted driving, the Hankooks should fit that bill. Here is the comparison by C&D: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests/hankook_ventus_v12_evo_page_10

I'm due for a new set of tires and will likely buy these for weekend sprinted drives and 4 - 5 DE's/yr.

I just submitted the attachment to the DIY tutorial - now posted here:

Hope this helps. Feel free to shoot me an email/PM if you have questions. Thanks Loren for quick approval.

What about FVD? They claim a software upgrade for the 3.2 that adds 12 hp and 11 lbs torque improvement. They claim it will help the mid range and throttle response which does seam to be a little weak in 2nd and 3rd gears.

Any one have experience with FVD performance products? Thanks again.

I have the FVD software in my '08 Boxster S. I selected FVD primarily because they're a local vendor and I have top notch customer service. As far as gains... I would estimate gain from FVD would not be much difference than others. Some vendors may claim higher HP/TQ just to "win" customers over, but even back to back dyno runs can/will yield different results. So, delta in HP/TQ difference between vendor claims don't really matter.

Rhonda & Flo @ FVD are great to deal with.. give them a ring and they can give you the run down on their tuning program.

I have an '08 Boxster S that did the same thing when I drove it home from the dealer... issue turns out to be defective radio. Dealer remove and replaced the fuse, did a hand-off with PIWIS. That "fixed" the problem for a while, a couple months later the radio wouldn't turn-on. Took to dealer 2nd time and they replaced the unit. Apparently the CDR-24 issues are fairly common. G'luck.

Probably not normal... keep the 22" on the driver side, and you may want to consider 21" wiper (on this one side) to see if that works better.

Not much help, but there have been many problems reported on the CDR-24. My unit, from a '08 boxster, will to go back to the dealer a second time in 6 months as the radio now won't power-up at all. Since the radio is not a user serviceable item, I suggest taking back to the dealer before CPO expires.

You'll need to do your own research & check references, but to get started.. go to your preferred film supplier website, search for a film dealer by location (state, city or zip) and start calling. For me (I have xpel.com), I found my dealer by searching for installer on xpel's site, then looked up the installer's credentials. I picked my installer as they're the only 3M authorized installation trainer in S. FL and also moves the most inventory (meaning they sell (and I assumed installed) more films than other installers in this area). I then called them up, visited their shop to asked for pictures and references. It just so happens they had a Diablo getting film installed. So, that was pretty good sign. The shop is very clean and installer had good lighting to work from. While I was at the shop, I just shoot the sh!t with the installer to get a feel of his attitude, what if I have problems after install, etc.

You can also check with local high-end body shops or your dealer to see who they use. Though, if you ask your sales guy, s/he may say they sell the service (@ a premium). HTH.

If you have a leak, you'll want to fix that quick. Brake fluid will eat paint - if only small leak, it may just take the caliper paint. If more, you risk getting that on the wheel and body panel. Take a (IIRC) 10mm wrench to the bleeder screw that's leaking... loosen it up just a little bit then tighten it up again. Wash the bleeder screw/plug/caliper with water and a rag (to make sure you wish off any residual brake fluid). Dry everything up with a paper towel (screw, rubber plug, etc.) - you don't have to cap the rubber plug yet. Turn on the car and stand on the brake and see if the pedal gives you that "sinking" feeling. It should be relative solid about 1/2 way down. Count to 10, then go do a visual on the bleeder screw (around the base and inside the bleeder screw) to make sure everything is still dry. G luck.

There is an article posted to another board... I used it couple weekends ago and it was helpful. After you do this once, you probably don't need to follow the instructions again - it's straight forward.

http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/showproduc...102&cat=500

Yup, they removed the procedure from 2007-on, though the procedure itself has not changed. I just did it last weekend and it wasn't too bad at all. If you have Bose, you'll need to remove the sub. If you are opening up the engine bay, you should have a toolbox with a set of torx ready.

I have a speed yellow and like the yellow/black contrast. So, I went with black side vents. Also planning to paint the side mirror housing in black this winter.

Not sure if this is too late, but a couple weeks back I installed the Alpine DPR-RDS1 with my '08 S with Bose. It uses FM modulator (via the antenna plug, not OTA). Because CDR-24 supports RDS, the album, artist and song name are also displayed (scrolling) on the radio and the information LCD. I noticed RDS didn't work with an older ipod (w/ 20G mcirodrive) and simply says ATTACHED. RDS does works with newer ipods. The unit also charges early ipods/iphones, with the exception of the 3GS.

The audio is excellent, there is no feedback/echo as it completely overpowers anything in the one of the 4 preset frequencies. Where I live, 88.7 is used at night by one of the radio stations (with strong, stereo signal). The Alpine unit completely over-powers the OTA station. You cannot hear the other station when you pause the ipod or switching between songs - even if you have the radio turned up loud. I really like it. I use the iPod to control the ... well, the ipod. If you simply need something for trips or, in my case, when the SO is in the car and wants to listen to his/her songs, I would go with the Alpine unit. The Alpine unit ($99 on Amazon w/ free S&H), antenna adapter ($15 on ebay).

Here is a short video clip of the old ipod working with the Bose. Ignore the audio quality - my camera is like 6 yrs old.

Alpine DPR-RDS1 with older an iPod

if you don't plan to drive it often (less than once a month), you may want to consider a indoor car cover. Also, leave the doors, hood & trunk cracked open (latched, but you can't just pull open), so the rubber seals aren't compressed the entire time during storage. You may also want to consider cover the tailpipe opening with tin foil or something, so rodents won't make homes in your exhaust. If you do this, leave a note on the seat or dash to remind yourself to pull them off when you go start the car. I think you mentioned battery maintainer. I've never used fuel stabilizer.. just keep a full tank of gas in the car - don't know about those fuel additives. I think that's all I have to add to others comments. I lived in Western NY years ago and we get 6 - 7 months of winter. The above is pretty much what I did when I put a car in winter storage.