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Everything posted by Harness

  1. Just wanted to chime in here with my experience, and what ended up being the issue. I first had the problem about two years ago, filled up with gas one day and the car (2008 997 Porsche Carrera S Manual ...detail for search engines) wouldn't start. Called my indie whose shop was close by, and he came over and figured out that giving it some gas would get it to start up (rough though). it was an intermittent problem for a while, and only expressed itself during colder months (avg temp below 70). It didn't matter if the car was warm or cold, but ambient air temperature seemed to be a factor with it not starting after fueling. Over the next two years I had my indie take a closer look based on what we found in the forums with each annual maintenance visit. He did a smoke test and replaced some valve one time and a solenoid the other, but the problem was still present. In recent months (during the pandemic and winter months so I wasn't driving much other than weekend cruising if the weather was nice) the problem got significantly worse. It was a very difficult to get running after fueling, and ran extremely rough (dying frequently) for the first couple of miles. Then, it would be fine until the next fill up. I was concerned enough that I decided to take it to the dealer, literally telling them I didn't want it back until they filled it up with gas and successfully started it. I plan on keeping this car for a very long time, and I was at the point where I wanted it fixed and didn't care too much about the cost. They gave it to one of their guys that had been around for a long time. He troubleshot it down to the "Tank Vent Line," part # 997-110-129-00. Here's his note to me: "Found that the vent valve line is stuck open. The tank vent valve is underneath bank 1 intake. The alternator and the intake must be removed to replace." That was about $950 in labor from the dealer, plus $468 for part. Well worth it to me at this point. I got it back, drove it ton, and then filled it up when I was about halfway through the tank. Started right up just like it was supposed to. Hope this helps someone in the future.
  2. Just realized I didn't put in all of the details. One of my idler pulleys had also failed... I ended up replacing all three of them and the belt, and that "probably" solved the low oil pressure warning (probably, as that never came back but I only drove 3-4 miles after that point). The squealing returned after the pulleys were replaced and once the engine was warm. At that point I was properly spooked and had the car towed to my mechanic, and he diagnosed the Oil/Air separator. Interestingly, he did that by removing the oil cap which caused the noise to stop. He put his hand over it and noted a high level of suction. Once he got the separator out it was clear it was failing.
  3. That was good advice, and my mechanic had me do the same thing. This turned out to be the rear main seal. All fixed now!
  4. I’ve discovered an oil drip from the back of my car. This is immediately following having the Oil/Air Separator and all pulley’s replaced so I’m thinking it’s likely related. Work was done at a trusted shop. This is a 2008 Carrera C2S with about 89000 miles on it. I took several photos and circled where the oil is dripping from. These were taken after the car had been sitting in my garage for about 36 hours, and the oil level is measuring as better than half. Anyone have any thoughts?
  5. Was it squeeling like that? I had trouble uploading the video but the second one should work.
  6. While I was driving, I got an “Oil Pressure Too Low” warning and the car was making a squealing noise. Oil level checked ok and it wasn’t leaking anything. Video attached. 2008 C2S with 89,000 miles. Just had oil changed a 3-4 months ago at a professional, PCA trusted shop. Any idea what this is? Car will sit where it’s at and I’ll have it towed next week, but curious if anyone has thoughts or similar experience. 17DCEE4E-0EEF-48B2-A748-D10E2EA0ED69.MOV 72598243-1E91-4CCB-B0E1-4E72503B285A.MOV
  7. To close the loop on this, the original problem was that after filling up my 2008 Carrera S (997.1), the car would have a really rough start (I’d have to give it some gas) and it would eventually roar to life. After about a month of having this problem inconsistently, I got a check engine light, which turned out to be P0455. I replaced the gas cap (it was old anyway) and no joy. I did some nosing around myself, but didn’t spot anything obvious. I was short on time and patience, so I took it to a trusted shop. They did a smoke test and found nothing, so they did a manual test of a couple of parts. The problem part turned out to be the Change Over valve (996.605.123.01), which is now part # H72031281. Cheap part, not too terribly hard to replace (not that I did it but that’s what my mechanic told me)... but a pain to diagnose.
  8. If they are not exactly the same I believe they are very similar. I'm going to dive in to that section of the car this weekend and see what I see. From everything I've read so far those components seem to be the most likely cause of the CEL. The only thing I hadn't found so far was first-hand experience with that start-up issue after filling up, so thank you very much for the feedback. I'll follow up with what I find.
  9. My car (2008 Carrera S, Manual, 85k miles) threw a check engine light a few days ago, with the P0455 error code. I’ve read a few threads on this forum about it and the feedback Loren gave, but I wanted to share one weird symptom and see if that may point at something specific. Every time I fill my car with gas (and this started a few weeks ago, I fill up weekly), the car won’t start. It cranks with gusto, but no joy. I have to give it gas to get it to turn over (and then it roars to life). This only occurs after filling up (and no issues with the actual fill up). Once it starts, everything is really back to normal until I fill up again. So, I was wondering if anyone else has seen that particular symptom and if that may point to some specific cause of P0455. I did replace my gas cap this week after the error first appeared (it needed to be replaced anyway), but that didn’t solve anything. On the bright side, when it threw the error code I took a look in the engine bay I noticed my belt had a bad split down the middle. So, I replaced it this morning and avoided a much a worse problem!
  10. To close this out, I replaced the belt today. This was a really easy job. Just needed a breaker bar with a 24mm socket (for the tensioner), a screwdriver to remove the air box from the throttle body, and a pair of needle nose pliers (which made removing the Mass Air Flow sensor easier). While I had the belt off, I spun everything (that was supposed to) to ensure they behaved properly (found a YouTube video), basically, they shouldn’t spin freely but almost immediately stop due to resistance (makes sense when you think about it as they power different things).
  11. Does anyone have an idea what would cause a tear like this in the accessory belt? It doesn't run the entire length of the belt, probably more than a foot though. I'm going to change it out tonight or tomorrow, but I'm curious if this looks like just a defect/old belt or perhaps a foreign object got in there? Anything else I should check while replacing it?
  12. I just ordered my codes (997 C2S) from Stuttgart.com. Only about $18, and had them right away. The process is you enter your VIN in their "My Garage" section, click a link to request your codes, and a few minutes later you get a link back for payment. No trips to the dealer and it's accurate.
  13. I ordered item 14 (funny enough, it was $14) and that was in fact the part I needed.... Thanks Loren!
  14. Thanks for the tip! New latch mechanism came today and it was under $35 : )
  15. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Coolant Pipe Replacement Detailed Instructions. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  16. I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was useful information. I would highly encourage anyone reading this to do the same. Fortunately, I was not in the position that the pipes simply failed and dumped all of the coolant. I just had a semi-slow leak… dropping about a gallon of coolant every two to three weeks. So, I had time to order the parts and prepare. Prior to doing this the most complicated thing I had done myself was change the oil, replacing the brake pads and swapping out some plastic bits in the car. I had absolutely no prior mechanic experience whatsoever. However, I do work in IT, and am by nature a very technical person (I'm sure every mechanic reading this just rolled their eyes). My job is troubleshooting very complex problems on very large networks, and I think that experience probably lent itself to a successful outcome here. I'm also patient, and that is critical to getting this job done. I will say that I now have a much greater appreciation for mechanics and their skill set. This was hard. I want to caution anyone reading this that this is a BIG job and it will take a long time. My goal in writing this is so that my fellow Cayenne owners can be spared a lot of the mistakes I made and be better prepared than I was. I will say I am relieved to have this done. I feel a ton better about my car now that I don't need to worry as much about some catastrophic failure hitting me unexpectedly. One rule that I really appreciated was to only place metal on metal when working (until you actually get to removing the pipes). This prevents you from breaking plastic or tearing rubber with something metal. Trust me, pay attention to that rule. I am breaking this down into tasks, because I think it's easier to follow that way. This is how I did it. I am sure there are other ways that may even be easier, but this worked for me and my schedule. I ended up working 4-6 hours at a stretch in the garage with breaks every couple of hours. Step 1: Contribute to this forum I have absolutely no affiliation with this forum whatsoever other than I am a contributing member. The advice on this forum has personally saved me thousands of dollars, and being in IT I know the time and money it takes to run a site like this. So, contribute to the cause. However, there is a second reason to contribute, and that's to get the Porsche TSBs. The TSB for this job contains some diagrams that give you a better idea how all the replacement parts go in to place, and I thought that was handy to have. As an aside, I searched some other issues in the TSBs and found answers to some things the dealership didn't even know… such as there being a $33 replacement latch for my armrest. They wanted to sell me a whole new armrest for $750. Step 2: Obtain the Parts I looked around on the Internet and called some local sources and found a dealership that provided the parts for $550, and that included two gallons of coolant shipped to my door. To me, that was a fair price, and when I received the parts I really thought it was a fair price... there's a lot of quality stuff in there. I'm sure there may be cheaper 3rd party sources. I would just be sure they include all gaskets and such that don't necessarily need to be replaced, but should be replaced if you're tearing everything apart. Once you get the parts, pull them out of the box and examine them. Look at the pics in the forum and look at the TSBs. Get a feel for what you are replacing. Step 3: Verify you have the tools I found the following tools very handy to have, and frankly, necessary. I suggest going to your local auto parts store for most of them and get mechanic grade tools. Socket Wrench 3" Socket Extension 6" Socket Extension Metric Socket Set Torx Socket Set (think of this as a "male" Torx Socket set, you will need #27 & #40) E-Torx Socket Set (think of this a "female" Torx Socket set) Screwdriver that accepts interchangeable bits (there are times this is easier than a socket wrench) Torx Bit Set (Specifically you need a #27 and #40, I just bought a set) Locking Long Nose Pliers (6" is fine, no need for anything bigger) Regular set of pliers Wrench Set (somewhat optional) Real flat head screwdrivers Very long flat head screwdriver (this came in handy a lot) Needle Nose Pliers Small Chisel Set Hammer Tin snips Safety Glasses Mechanics Gloves One of those extension things with a magnet on the end One of those extension things with a mirror on the end WD-40 Some all-purpose grease, like White Lightning Baggies to store the screws in Masking tape/Painters Tape to cover up any exposed openings Old Bath Towels (used to protect the car) Good flashlight Lint free rags Shop Vac Two gallons of distilled water Drain pan (needs to hold 4 gallons) Shop lights A small block of wood, about 2" x 4" x ¾" A radio playing energetic music of your choice Advil and Tylenol Hope and a prayer (optional but doesn't hurt) Step 4: Book the Time I know some people say you can have this job done in less than 8 hours, but being a beginner this took me much longer. If I took out all the time running back and forth to the store for tools and such, and had a guide like the one I am writing, I still think it would have taken 10-12 hours. I ended up removing all of the engine covers on one weekend night, and then doing the actual job the following weekend. I then drove the car for a week with the new pipes and finally put all the engine covers back on over the weekend (I cleaned the covers and the engine thoroughly with a damp rag at the same time to pretty it up a bit). You don't really need to do it that way, but that split the work up a bit. I work in an office in front of a PC all day; I'm not used to working in a hot garage for 8-10 hours at a time... I'm a skinny computer geek : ) When I did the work, I draped some old bath towels over the sides and front of the car to protect it. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the paint on a zipper or with a dropped tool/screw. Step 5: Remove the Engine Covers There are really two parts to this. You have the decorative covers over the actual engine, and then you have the covers that border the engine. You'll want to remove all of the covers around the border first. There are five of them in total. They all have these little black plastic plugs that you just turn 90 degrees. They should just pop up at that point, but you might have to give them a little lift with a screw driver. While you're removing those covers you might want to pay attention to how they go together and where they slide in to place. You'll also want to remove the windshield washing fluid cap (use the masking tape to cover up the exposed hole) before you remove the cover that surrounds it. Those little things are $4.25 each from the dealership, so try not to lose them. Now you have the three silver looking decorative covers; one on each side of the engine and one towards the front middle with the engine type on it. First, you need to unbolt the two secondary air injection units. Those are the round things with the plastic covers near the back of the engine compartment. You do not need to disconnect them from anything, just unbolt them (three screws each) and then move them off to the side. It might be a good idea to get some labeled baggies to store the screws in. Once those are removed you can get to the side engine covers a little easier. The engine cover in the front middle you just lift off, just work it back and forth a little and it should pop off. Take note that there are four little plugs that fit into holes on the cover itself, you'll need to find them again when replacing it. Now remove the one on the driver's side. It's pretty easy to remove. There are four screws towards the bottom that need to be removed, and then the cover will just come off. The one on the passenger side is a bit different. You have the engine mount right in the middle of things. Assuming you have the tools, you can unscrew the engine mount and get it out of the way. That will let you get to each of the four screws easily on the cover and remove it. I wasn't so lucky here (didn't have the right tools at the time), so I just got the four screws out of the cover and ended up wedging it out. While doing that, the piece of the cover under the engine mount snapped off. I wasn't too concerned about this, because where it snapped is hidden by the engine mount. When I put everything back together I just slid it back and screwed it in. You can't tell at all that it was ever snapped in half. Step 5a: Remove Fuel Pump Fuses You'll want to check your manual (you can also download the manual from this site), but you need to remove a couple of fuses for the fuel pump. Right in front of the driver under the hood there is a small compartment. Remove the cover, and then remove a second cover to expose the fuses. Mine were fuse 14 & 15 for the fuel pump. Store them somewhere safe. Once those are removed, start your car. It will run for a few seconds and die. Congrats, you just removed most of the fuel from the fuel line. I know some people don't disconnect the fuel rail or anything, but to me that's a bad idea. I had a lot of time to try it that way and honestly I'm glad I got it out of the way. Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line The fuel line is near the back center, it's just one tube running to the fuel rail. You'll disconnect it by using a wrench and a pair of pliers. You're unscrewing the part on the left (the thin part) from the part on the right (the wide part) which shouldn't turn as it is part of that tube. Once unscrewed, the fuel rail is only connected to the manifold. A little residual fuel might leak out, so you might want to have a rag handy to wipe it up with. Use masking tape to cover up any exposed holes. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the batteries now either. I didn't, but that was probably stupid. Step 7: Remove the Y-Pipe that goes to the Throttle Body This plastic Y-Pipe is right up front so it's very easy to get to. There are two flexible pipes on either side you need to remove first; just use a screwdriver to loosen the two clamps on each of them and you should be able to compress them enough to remove them. The Y-Pipe itself is attached to the throttle body via two long, plastic bolts. They have a screw head on them but they are not screws, they're more of a key. You just turn them a bit to line the key at the bottom (use a flashlight and you'll see it move as you turn it with the screwdriver) with the slot. When it's lined up, use a pair of needle nose pillars to lift it straight out. It's plastic and may be brittle, so be a little careful. You will need to remove an electric connection to the throttle body in order to get to one of them. There is a tube connected to the bottom of this y-pipe, so you can't just lift it out. It has some give to it, but not a lot… just enough to get your hand under there once you pull the y-pipe off the throttle body. You have to press the buttons on each side of the tube in order to get it off the y-pipe. Step 8: Remove Emission Tubes & Electrical Connections from Throttle Body There are two emission tubes crossing the throttle body, Porsche refers to them as "vent tubes." I know this because one snapped in half when I removed it, and the dang thing was $130 to replace. To remove them, you just need to press the clips at either side of the end of the tube together and then pull it straight out. I don't think mine had ever been removed, and in retrospect a bit of WD-40 used sparingly here might have been a good idea. I think I used too much force and that's why the small one snapped. I have read that some people have replaced this broken tube with a more generic tube from a hardware store. I just spent the $130 and did it right. There is a third tube connected to the throttle body, you just need to remove that one end of it. You will also have two electrical connections to remove. One you had to remove to get the y-pipe off in the previous step. Just remove the second one and then you're done. Step 9: Remove the Throttle Body The throttle body is connected to the manifold via four bolts. Remove those four bolts and it will come off. You sort of have to wiggle it out because of that thin metal bracket that's holding it there, but it will come out easy enough. Some people take this opportunity to clean it. You'll probably see some gunk on the back side of it on the inside. Step 9: Remove the Electrical Connections to the Fuel Injectors There are eight fuel injectors connected between the fuel rail and intake manifold. Mine were blue plastic, and there is an electrical connection running to each of them. There is a metal clip at the bottom that you just need to press up. I placed a flat head screwdriver between this clip and my index finger, and pushed up and pulled at the same time to disconnect it. Once you remove one you'll get the trick and the rest will come right off. Step 10: Remove the Intake Manifold with Fuel Rail Attached I know a lot of people have different ideas here, some people want to remove the fuel rail independently, and that was the first way I tried it. In retrospect, it's much easier to just leave it attached. There are four screws that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. I would recommend leaving these alone, especially since the one at the back on the passenger side is nearly impossible to get to. These screws are $6+ each… I know because I lost one. :P There are 10 bolts that need to be undone to remove the manifold. They don't come all the way out, they'll stay attached to the manifold. Once you loosen them enough they sort of come free and wiggle around. The one at the back on the passenger side was a bear to get to. I ended up placing the Torx Socket bit on top of it using the magnetic extension thing. I then put the 3" extension on top of it, and finally attached my socket wrench to it. I kind of built it all up I guess. I then went really, really slowly and loosened it up. Once loose, make sure to vacuum up any debris on the engine. When you pull the intake manifold off you will have eight gaping holes right down to your cylinders, you don't want anything falling in there. You can now scoot it forward a bit to get to the tubes you will need to disconnect. There are two tubes at the back of the manifold… a firm one and a flexible one. The firm one is just like the one under the y-pipe, and is easy enough to remove IF you can get enough pressure on the connector. The flexible one was just kind of stuck on mine and I left it on. You kind of have to scoot the manifold forward and angle it out, but it will come out with the fuel rail attached. You may have to remove some tubes and such from their guides or brackets. That flexible tube was long enough that I just put the whole thing on the driver's side of my engine and left it there. It didn't seem to be sitting on anything that couldn't support it. I'm sure it can be removed, but at this point in the job I was tired, hot, and just wanted to keep going. Once off, IMMEDIATELY cover up the exposed intake holes with long strips of tape. Cover them completely, and make sure they STAY COVERED. Shine a flashlight in each hole first to make sure nothing fell down there. If so, get it out as delicately as possible. Vacuum up any other debris you see. You can now see the infamous coolant pipes. Step 11: Assessment At this point, you can see the coolant pipes and should be ready for the meat of this repair. The starter is right there too… right under the leaking pipes. Brilliant, isn't it? This may not be true for you, but I had an AMAZING amount of debris in here… honestly looked like a bird had built a nest. I have no idea how it all got in there, but some where at some point tons of debris got in here, and now it was all soaked in coolant. I think my coolant leaking may have been mitigated because the wet debris probably acted as a mud and sealed everything up a bit. I vacuumed it up with a shop vac prepped for a wet cleanup. Now you need to decide if you will see this repair through or not. Once the next step is taken, there is no going back, and honestly the toughest part of this job by far is getting the old pipes out. Step 12: Drain the Remaining Coolant Your first goal is removing as much coolant from the car as you can. On the V8's, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the car, but on the turbo's you won't have one. That drain plug required an allen bit that was larger than I had on hand or could even find at a hardware store. Honestly, in retrospect I wouldn't have even bothered locating it. I'm sure there's a pipe down there you could remove, but I didn't waste time looking for. I took a tip I found on a forum, and drilled a hole right in the middle of the center coolant pipe (of three) and used a siphon with a hand pump to drain out every bit I could. I repeated this process on the larger lower pipe. DO NOT SIPHON BY USING YOUR MOUTH. Coolant is dangerous, nasty stuff. Make sure there are no animals or kids around while you are doing this. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES! Doing it this way you're going to spill a lot of coolant, but it is what it is… they've been leaking all over everything anyway. I used my shop vac to vacuum up anything I could that escaped the siphon. I've also read of people renting professional vacuum pumps to suck it all out, but again, that's more complicated than it needs to be. I did some research, and coolant is not currently controlled by the EPA for disposal, and it can't be recycled. The unofficial advice I got was to dump it in the woods and douse the area with a hose for a bit. Do not dump it down the drain or dump it where animals could readily drink it. Don't dump it in a stream. Presumably it breaks down fast enough on the ground that there isn't a long lasting effect. Step 13: Remove the Three Upper Coolant Pipes The first pipe you need to remove is the long skinny pipe with three connectors. This one is easy enough to remove, and you should have a replacement as part of the kit. One of the connectors broke off in the hole, and I had to very carefully remove the pieces. Relatively speaking this was easy compared to the rest. There is a compression ring that needs to be removed for the connection at the back of the engine, use the locking pliers to do that. Cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. You now have to remove the three upper coolant pipes. There is a bracket at the back of the engine holding the three pipes. There are also two clips attached (you'll be looking at the back side of them) to that bracket that just support a hose at the back (just has electrical connections in it, and it's probably already split so you don't have to be super careful). Pinch the connectors with a pair of needle nose pliers and they'll come off. You now have to remove three bolts from it to remove the upper half of that bracket. I removed two of them but couldn't get to the third without snapping the thing in half. Porsche was kind enough to provide a new one in the kit so I wasn't worried about it. You will now see three rubber hoses attached to the plastic pipes. They are held on to them with compression rings. Use the locking pliers on the rings to loosen them (they need to be squeezed together to loosen) and slip them back over the pipes. I did one at a time, completely removing the ring and setting it off to the side for safety. The locking pliers really excelled here. When using them, attempt to come at the ring from the top instead of the side, the grooves on the pliers will then secure the ring quite nicely. You might have to adjust the pliers a couple of time to get the right amount of the compression for the ring to move freely. With those ends free, I used the shop vac to suck out a lot more coolant. Once done, cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. Once those three ends are free, you'll need to free up the other ends. Here's the deal, they are probably going to break when you try to remove them, and probably going to snap off at the spot where they connect to the coolant reservoir. I twisted and pulled and sure enough, they snapped off. You can remove the lid of the coolant reservoir by removing several screws, a small aluminum pipe on top, and the rubber pipes towards the front of the car. The small aluminum pipe has a single screw that needs to be removed. There is probably a lot of corrosion here so you may need to use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out. Be careful, it's flexible enough to come out and get out of the way but just barely. There is a compression ring on each of the rubber pipes that is easy enough to get to, just loosen and slide it down the pipe. Suck out any coolant and cover the exposed pipes with masking tape. Once you have that lid out, you'll see the remaining plastic bits in the holes. It's difficult to move, but those plastic bits are just in there with pressure, they aren't glued or anything. I used a small chisel and the hammer to break them out. As I got to the o-rings I pulled on those with needle nose pliers and in one instance the whole chunk came out. I also used a lot of WD-40 to work everything out. What you don't want to do is take any risk of chiseling into the metal of the lid, so be careful. This is all about removing the plastic material. Each bit you remove gets you one step closer to freeing up enough pressure to get the remaining bit out. Once it's all clean, leave it off to the side while removing the big pipe. Step 14: Removing The Big Pipe This one is tough. Make sure you're rested, well fed, and cooled down a bit. If you're aggravated already, walk away and relax a bit. You will need to break this pipe into two pieces. I used a boring bit to drill a big hole in the top, and then used tin snips to cut chunks out until I got it in two parts. Again, I used a shop vac to suck out any remaining coolant as I went along. Really, anything will work… you could even use a chisel to break it out. It's coming out one way or the other, no need to be pretty about it. Once it's in two pieces, you can probably rotate the two halves apart. Use WD-40 generously on the ends first though, and give it a bit to work in there. Regardless, when I went to pull out the two ends, they ended up snapping off… leaving their end pieces in the hole. If you read through the three forums, different people use different techniques to try and avoid this with mixed results. This is the worst case scenario though, so lucky for you I fought through it and have plenty of advice. Assuming your pipe broke off as mine did, you will see a metal ring in each end, with black plastic between it and your car. That metal ring was an inner support ring for the original pipe and needs to be removed. This is a violent procedure. IMPORTANT: I cut up some lint free cloths and stuffed one into each end as far as I could so that any material from the following procedure wouldn't go any further. Once done with the procedure below, I vacuumed up anything I could and then removed those cloths. Again, use WD40 a LOT. I sprayed and sprayed as a worked, and I think it helped. READ THIS CAREFULLY: Removing the plastic and metal ring from each end is all about removing material. You are trying to get as much plastic out as possible. If you get the ring out first, great, but it's not 100% necessary. The plastic is what needs to come out, and you need to get it out from all around it. In addition to the plastic, there are two o-rings in there, so they are just adding more friction preventing this from moving. You'll get bits of that out as you work, and that's good. Eventually, you get enough bits out that the rest will just fall out. Use a hammer and chisel to collapse the metal ring on the top and sides as much as possible. I used to the chisel to cut in to it a bit too. Once I got it that far, I switched to the long screwdriver, hammering the end of it into the plastic over, and over, and over again. I pried as much as I could and worked out bits of material. This took a long time, but sometimes you'll get a big chunk out and that will give you renewed hope. Again, this is all about material removal. Keep telling yourself that. Every bit you get out makes this easier. Once you get enough plastic out, you'll see the metal ring move a bit as you work. This is a great sign and you are almost done. Ultimately, you should be able to pry it out with the screwdriver. NOTE: When working you want to work as much towards the metal ring as possible. You want to avoid scraping the inside of the hole where your new pipes will go. I did scrape up mine a bit, it's unavoidable, but regardless my new pipes don't leak. When you go to remove the bits closest to you, you're working somewhat blind and it is hard. This part almost broke me, but I used a mirror to check and recheck my work as I went along. Bright lights help here too. Honestly, I really can't say enough how hard this part was and how long it took in comparison to everything else. It was the part that had me the most worried, but I got through it. Once it's all out, remove the cloths from inside the pipe and vacuum a lot. Now is the time to clean stuff up too, as you're about to put the new pipes in. As a best practice, you should clean up the inside of those holes. I used some steel wool; I know some people used scotch bright or even buffing pads. I didn't go overboard with this; I just want to get any grime out of there. Step 15: Install the New Big Pipe At this point you should be elated. You're through the worst. Installing these pipes are a bit difficult, but not bad. If they are not already on there, put the O-Rings on the small pipe. Use the White Lightning grease or whatever you bought and coat the inside of the hole on the engine and the outside of the pipe. Use it liberally. A bit of WD40 wouldn't hurt either. Press it into the hole at the back of the engine and do your best to get it all the way in. This is where a small block of wood and a hammer come in handy; you can use those to tap it in the rest of the way. Do not put the rubber sleeve on it. For the big pipe, install the o-rings and lube everything up good with the grease, both the hole it goes in and the pipe itself. You will also need to grease up the end the rubber part goes on and the other end of the short pipe that the rubber sleeve will slip over. Place the tightening rings over the rubber sleeve as well. Slide the rubber sleeve as far as it will go over the pipe. Push the pipe into the hole, I found a twisting action worked well. I also used my metal screwdriver against the bottom of the engine bay as a lever to slide it in the rest of the way (it required a lot of pressure). You then need to rotate it to line it up with the short end of the pipe. You'll slide the rubber sleeve over it and then tighten up the two rings. NOTE: Be sure to rotate the rings as far down as possible so that the screw does not interfere with the three pipes you're about to place on top of it. The new big pipe should be in place, and you're now done with the hardest part of this job. Step 16: Install the Three Pipes You'll want to put the lid back on the coolant reservoir (replacing the seals Porsche included with the kit), reattach the pipes and tighten up the screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS. I snapped one clean off. Make sure they're tight, but don't put all your muscle into it. Once on, you are ready to slide those pipes in. You do not need to put the lower bracket at the back on first; I did it after installing the pipes. Again, make sure everything is lubed up well so that any points of friction are well covered. Slide the pipes in. I used by long screwdriver again as a lever to apply the necessary pressure. On both these pipes and the big pipe it looked like I could have gone another 16th of an inch, but nothing leaks so I guess it was far enough. Put the bracket on at the back before you attach the hoses. You'll use your locking pliers again to attach the compression rings. With the bracket in place it is obvious how far up the hoses go. You'll put the upper bracket on, using the spacers for the screws and screwing it down tight. Don't forget to attach the two brackets that hold that electrical cable in place. Not a big deal if you do forget. Step 17: Install Final Pipe Now install that skinny pipe. This one is easy. Don't forget about the small compression ring that goes at the far end. Everything else just clips in. Step 18: Assess Your Work Look over everything and make sure it all looks right. At this point you should have a sealed coolant system. Check all your connections and make sure everything is solid. At this point you're home free, and you should be feeling pretty darn good. Step 19: Fill Up Coolant I use a 50/50 water to coolant ratio… so I mixed everything up with what I had and filled up the coolant tank. Once it was full, I left it overnight and checked in the morning for any fresh coolant. I was totally beat from a long day of working on it and thought putting everything back together fresh in the morning was a good idea. Step 20: Put Everything Back Together You tore it apart, now put it back together. I cleaned everything as I went, so now my engine looks great and I think that's a good idea. You don't need to go overboard, just use some lightly damp, lint free rags and wipe everything down. Porsche should have also provided new seals that go on the bottom of the intake manifold. I replaced mine dutifully, and I am glad I did. The old ones just looked worn out, no way they weren't leaking. Putting everything together is pretty straightforward once you've taken it apart. Just be careful and make sure you get all electrical connections and hoses in back on securely and in the right places (hard to mess that up). Also make sure you remove every bit of masking tape as you go. Final Thoughts I am very, very glad I did this project for two reasons. One, it saved me a ton of money and two, I now know tons more about the engine. Doing this project means I could replace my fuel injectors, spark plugs, injection coils and a host of other things when and if I have to. I know where the throttle body is, and if it's sticking I know where to go to clean it. If I need to replace the starter, I know where it is and how to get to it. I can now take my car on trips without fear of a massive coolant leak. This was the last "major" Cayenne defect for me that needed to be fixed. The water pump & drive shaft were already replaced. With 116,000 miles, I have quite a bit of faith in my car not having a catastrophic failure (knock on wood). At the end of the day, I'm pretty proud of myself for getting this all accomplished, and I hope I've saved some other poor soul a ton of time by writing all of this down. If it does help you out, please reply to this post and let me know.
  17. I posted new, detailed do-it-yourself instructions for the coolant pipe replacement under the DIY forum. Here's the link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38388-coolant-pipe-replacement-detailed-instructions/
  18. Coolant Pipe Replacement Detailed Instructions I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was Author Harness Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 06/11/2011 05:39 PM Updated 03/14/2017 07:05 AM
  19. Is there a reason why you would choose the HPS over the Hawk Ceramic pads? I went to the ceramic ones about 2 or 3 months ago and have been very happy with them.
  20. I guess that's what I'm asking. 13 is pretty clear in the diagram, and I have that one. Just making sure 14 is the cover I actually need to cover up the exposed jump start terminals, etc.
  21. Hoping someone can help out a bit. I am missing the cover that goes over the jump start terminal (upper driver's side) on my engine and need the part number. This piece seems like it would be #14 on the attached diagram, but the description isn't helpful and the diagram doesn't really even look right. I've attached a photo showing where the part goes on my engine as well. I was hoping someone could actually look at the piece on their car and let me know the part number stamped on it. My dealer wasn't 100% positive and didn't have a used Cayenne on the lot to eyeball. They thought there could be a chance the cover might just be included with the larger driver side engine cover. Thanks in advance!
  22. Thanks, it was indeed there, but it needed a larger alan wrench than a standard set comes with... I went to a local auto parts store and they didn't carry such a thing, so I did the same as you... drilled some holes and used a $4 siphon pump to get most of it. I figured everything was soaked in coolant anyway so what harm would a little more do : )
  23. I'm mid-coolant pipe upgrade, and after getting all the way down to the coolant pipes I can't find the coolant drain plug under the car. I have an 04 Cayenne S. Anyone know where it is at specifically?
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