Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

BigBadBen

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    60

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by BigBadBen

  1. BigBadBen
    Hi Loren, Have you any idea why I would get a totally mushy brake pedal after I drop the tranny on my car, it makes no sense at all as the two systems are totally seperate. This is so odd. I had an issues with the custom triple **** clutch setup that I have, so had to drop the tranny...no problem. Put everything back together tonight and basically the brake pedal goes pretty much right to the floor, pump it a bit and it gets a bit hard and then goes soft again. We did NOT touch the brake system in anyway. No fluid leaks...nothing. The only solution I have found is to bleed the system completely, no bubbles come out and all seems good again....I will be bleeding the system on Tuesday but it's just a pain in the bum! BTW I am using Castrol SRF fluid and a Motive Power Bleeder. I am totally perplexed by this. This also happen when I recenly changed my pads...again I did not brake any of the lines but I had a very soft, mushy pedal again. Does this sound like a dodgey master cylinder? Cheers, Ben
  2. BigBadBen
    Once I took a good look at the seat, I realized the circuit/wiring harness was removable with the OEM buckle itself, I should have realized that ..doh!....Perfect Loren...the project continues. I don't think the buckle mounting to the Reacaro seat will be an issue, I will find out once the seats arrive on Friday. Thanks again for your assistance, it is very much appreciated! :beer: Ben
  3. BigBadBen
    100 ohm res eh! I will be using the factory buckle not a harness. I would still need to figure out which wire goes where for the seat belt buckle, hang on, as the OEM seat buckle will not be connected to the factory wiring harness, how dos this work....am I missing something here?...I am not sure what the best way is of doing this..any suggestions Loren...I really appreciate the info so far. How would you do this? Ben
  4. BigBadBen
    So, I removed my passenger and drivers seat, just the regular full electric OEM seats, had to take the car out of the garage to remove the drivers seat..needed the room to get the seat out. Anyway now I have the air bag light on the dash. Does anybody know how my new Toplines connect to the OEM wiring harness so the car thinks everything is OK and the air bag light goes out? Is there a resistor or some kind of wire loop I can install that fools the the DME into thinking everything is OK. TIA...Ben
  5. BigBadBen
    Thanks Loren....Tried your TSB but it made no differnce....darn it I assume its toast...funny thing is I never had an issue with this remote prior to me doing the all mods to my car....
  6. BigBadBen
    I thought I would check that my spare key still worked. Tried opening and closing the car with the remote key fob...nothing. The LED flashes when I press the buttons. Checked the battery all good. Bought a new battery just in case, still no good. This key worked fine last year when I bought the car. Is there some kind of sequence I need to perform to get this key working again. I did a search but could not find anything on this subject. The user manual says not much either. TIA. Ben
  7. BigBadBen
    The engine revs will go up when the AC is switched on but compressor not activating. The AC control unit tells the DME its on and the DME in turn alters the torque of the engine to compensate for the extra load of the compressor. By doing this, you shouldn't notice a difference when the compressor engages. However, in your situation, the AC was trying to switch on the compressor (but couldn't because of the loose connection) and the DME increased torque for a load that wasn't there. Bloody Hell Basil Brush!!!! Boom Boom...My God its been years since I have seen him.....being an ex pat!...Thanks for the DME lesson, its all clear as crystal now...Cheers, Ben
  8. BigBadBen
    Paul, That is a very good point, the engine revs went up for sure which is what confused me too as that would assume the compressor would be running. The only reason for the idle to increase would be the compressor load...now I am scratching my head.... <_<
  9. BigBadBen
    Problem fixed....under futher examination, I noticed connector A1 (green wire) had come loose for the its spade connector. This actuates the A/C compressor, looks like a ground or return wire to me, anyway all is good...had a feeling is was something simple. Thanks for all your help guy's....as always folks on here are always happy to help other board members. Cheers all. Ben
  10. BigBadBen
    Thanks guy's, I think it is a leak of some kind mind you there is no sign of oil anywhere from any of the fittings....I think it is going to be something simple. Stangely enough I live in a semi desert area of BC, we only get 30 cm of rain a year so its not that wet here. Thanks for all the tips, I will endevour to track this problem down soon as its supposed to be 33 C today... Cheers, Ben
  11. BigBadBen
    Kelowna, British Columbia, Canada..closest dealer is 400 KM away....big sigh....I may take it to the local BMW or Mercedes dealership and see what they say...thats the trouble with living in the sticks. I think its a leak.....thanks for getting back to me so quickly, I will report back my findings.. Ben
  12. BigBadBen
    Hey Loren, As you know last year I dropped my motor to do the EVOMS GT700 kit, at the time we did not disconnect the A/C lines or remove the refrigerant from the system, we were able to unbolt the compressor motor from the engine and leave it hanging there. Of course the A/C worked perfectly last summer but I dropped the motor in September so did not use the A/C after that. Today I turn the A/C on for the first time this year and all appears to be working except we get no cooling. The fuses are all OK, the fan motors work, you hear the A/C relay come on when you activate the A/C button, the engine revs also go up to compensate for the compressor load...all looks OK.... Of course I could just have a leak in the system, will have that check on Thursday...just trying to get some ideas. Checked my Porsche shop manual, just gives the usual info. I have no Porsche dealer in town so I am leary to have a regular A/C hack place work on my car... Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers, Ben
  13. BigBadBen
    me and a friend of mine took on last weekend. Your forum is a tech forum so it deserves a mention here...hope you don't mind the links....Ben http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35647 http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35889 http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35835 Bleeding the coolant system was a real pain in the bum without the Porsche tool..we figured it out thought with help from John at EVOMS. Ben
  14. BigBadBen
    Statman..Its the same on the TT, while your there clean all the rads, my TT rads were completely choked up with leaves at the back... Undo the two rads that are screwed together and clean behind to...I put some pics up on 6speed about it....search BigBadBen Cheers.
  15. BigBadBen
    Check out the "DIY" section under "996, Adding the third radiator"....it shows you how to remove the bumper, its an easy job...done it myself recently.
  16. BigBadBen
    My car has 12,500 miles on the clock.... Cheers Loren..I will follow your advice and be prepared.
  17. BigBadBen
    Loren, I purchased a CG Ex Loud today and when I look at the (P) shop manual its says that when re-installing the exhaust to the turbo's you should replace the seals with new ones.....is this really required or can I use the old ones if I am careful. Also do I really need to remove the rear bumper to do this? Cheers, Ben
  18. BigBadBen
    I decided to buy the Workshop and PET CD's from "Porschelibrarian"...see my original post before with regard this topic. I received them today and they work just fine and provide me with all the info I need to maintain my car. I can print out anything I want and it comes out clear. Being able to enlarge any image I want using Adobe 7.0, allows me to see in detail any small stuff, particularly the electrical schematics. I am very happy with my purchase and recommend this to anybody that likes wrenching like I do. Cheers, Ben Loren...these are the real deal. Thanks Keith! PS: Had no setup issues and all functions fine on my P4 PC
  19. BigBadBen
    Top left of the page "DIY", "third rad installation on the NA 996".
  20. BigBadBen
    Yes, I did that too Loren, she is nice and clean now...cheers
  21. BigBadBen
    my rads....everybody should check theirs as this is what I found in mine. I only have 19K KM on my car. Used my air compressor to blow out most of the stuff plus tooth brush, tooth picks to removed all the gravel which was stuck in the coil fins. Finally washed the whole thing out with a hose on high pressure....I think this will help keep her cooler don't ya think. Many thanks to Loren for for the DIY..cheers Loren.
  22. BigBadBen
    Haha..got it...trouble is is the closest P dealer/shop to me is 400 KM away.
  23. BigBadBen
    Cheers Loren....any special tools required?
  24. BigBadBen
    I am looking into doing the Evolution Motorsports GT700 upgrade and was wondering how big a job it was to drop the motor, I will also be putting in a new clutch assembly too from EVO. I like working on my cars and this is a project I know I can handle.....please can you shed some light on this for me please. I have access to a hoist etc. TIA Loren. Ben
  25. BigBadBen
    Has anybody deal with these guys' http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.