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artero

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Everything posted by artero

  1. Hi Dan, I had the exact same problem with my installation of the new IMS bearing (from LN Engineering). My extraction of the single row bearing went just fine and I was eager to install the new bearing. However, my first attempt went horribly wrong. I started using a dead blow mallet to drive the new bearing in, and it did seem to go in a bit. Then, to my disappointment, it wouldn’t move any further, no matter how much I was hitting it. Thus, I had to extract the new bearing, at which point I thought I’ve damaged the new bearing (it made a strange noise when I spun it by hand). I called LN; they were VERY helpful and agreed with me that I had an alignment problem. I was working on this project using larger jack stands, laying underneath the car, which positions your body at an awkward angle for any perfect alignment. Anyway, LN was king enough to sell me another new bearing (with another new stud pressed in) and shipped it to me ASAP. When I received the new bearing, I was very nervous to make a second attempt, but I overcame my fears, thinking that, after all, it was just a simple bearing that has to be driven in - no big deal right? Well, no matter how careful I was the second time, the bearing still didn’t just slide in. I started using the dead blow mallet again, but changed to the smallest hammer I could find, for more control. Well, because my IMS shaft was off center by just a little bit (to the right and up slightly, although the tensioners were loose), I sub-consciously overcompensated and was beating in the right side of the bearing more than the left. The bearing seemed to be stuck (again) and panic was setting in. I could visually tell that the right side of the bearing was in just a fraction of an inch deeper than the left (looking at the angle of the driver tool, supplied by LN). However, with a little bit more force, continued to beat that bearing in, now concentrating on the left side of the bearing a little bit more. FINALLY, the bearing started to slide in. I was not happy about how difficult my bearing went in, but I think I just underestimated how much force was needed to pound the new bearing into place. Also, working on the floor, under the car, at an awkward angle, didn’t make things easier. Peter
  2. Hi Roger, Just like you, I was worried about the IMS failure, so I recently upgraded to the LN Engineering IMS retrofit kit. However, I must say that the old bearing (single row) in my car (2002 Targa, 70K Miles) seemed just fine, it was not worn at all and there was no play in it whatsoever. I also keep hearing that if your car made it to 70K miles, you should be fine. Finally, it amazes me to only hear people reporting IMS failures at idle or low revs. It almost seems as though the harder you drive that engine, the better it is for it, within limits ;-) Peter
  3. ...continuation... Here is where my nightmare almost came to light: LN Engineering mentioned that the new IMS flange may interfere with the flywheel. To test this, I installed the flywheel and proceeded to crank the engine by hand. As soon as I cranked the engine, I felt something like chain skipping across teeth. It is at this precise moment that I realized what may have happened – I forgot to tighten the two tensioners! GAME OVER. I immediately fainted and, as I came to, I was sure that the timing was messed up. I quickly tensioned the two tensioners and proceeded to crank the engine by hand some more, expecting, at any moment, to have the valve hit the piston. To my surprise, however, the engine still turned and the chain skipping across teeth feeling went away. As I turned the engine some more, a full 360 deg. the chain skipping on teeth came back. I was puzzled, as the symptoms were there for 180 deg and disappeared for the other 180 deg. Finally, I remembered that LN Engineering did mention that the flywheel may interfere with the IMS flange. I immediately removed the flywheel and the chain skipping across teeth feeling went away completely. I just had to grind a little spot on the IMS flange and the interference went away. I re-assembled everything and, knock on wood and a prayer, the car started. Thus, I realize how lucky I was – one just has to pay attention 100% at all times, think things through and not get too eager.
  4. Boxterfahrer, you are not alone. I had a similar experience, I just got lucky. Several months ago I decided to order the LN Engineering kit, to retrofit my IMS (Inter Mediate Shaft) bearing (single row) with the LN Engineering bearing and IMS flange (cover) in my 2002 911. This way I wouldn’t have to worry about the IMS problem as much. Working with Jack stands in my garage was ok. I purchased some 6 ton jacks from Harbor Freight for the rear of the car and regular car ramps (installed sideways) for the front. Finally, I purchased a transmission puller adaptor for my 3.5 ton jack from Autozone and I was all set. Pulling the transmission was uneventful (that thing is heavy), removing the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel was also straight forward. I then loosened the two chain tensioners (the Crank-IMS one and the IMS-Cam one, on the transmission side of the engine). I left the tensioner on the opposite side alone, as this would do little to loosen the tension on the IMS bearing area. I did not remove the tensioners completely, as I did not want to mess up timing. Removing the IMS flange at this point was easy, however, as expected, I found the IMS shifted to the right and up a bit, about ¼ inch. I proceeded to remove the IMS bearing with the LN Engineering supplied puller, and I then installed the new LN Engineering bearing (with the LN Engineering supplied tool). Next, I had to install the IMS flange, which was tricky, since, without removing the tensioners completely, the IMS was still way off center. Well, I noticed that Porsche was selling the alignment tool. Since that alignment tool would no longer work for me (due to the fact that the new IMS bearing stud was upgraded to a thicker one and the thread would not fit the tool), I drove down to Home Depot and purchased $8 worth of metal peaces and the alignment was done without any problems at all – the new LN Engineering IMS flange was installed. [attachment=18648:IMS.JPG Here is where my nightmare almost came to light: LN Engineering mentioned that the new IMS flange may interfere with the flywheel. To test this, I installed the flywheel and proceeded to crank the engine by hand. As soon as I cranked the engine, I felt something like chain skipping across teeth. It is at this precise moment that I realized what may have happened – I forgot to tighten the two tensioners! GAME OVER. I immediately fainted and, as I came to, I was sure that the timing was messed up. I quickly tensioned the two tensioners and proceeded to crank the engine by hand some more, expecting, at any moment, to have the valve hit the piston. To my surprise, however, the engine still turned and the chain skipping across teeth feeling went away. As I turned the engine some more, a full 360 deg. the chain skipping on teeth came back. I was puzzled, as the symptoms were there for 180 deg and disappeared for the other 180 deg. Finally, I remembered that LN Engineering did mention that the flywheel may interfere with the IMS flange. I immediately removed the flywheel and the chain skipping across teeth feeling went away completely. I just had to grind a little spot on the IMS flange and the interference went away. I re-assembled everything and, knock on wood and a prayer, the car started. Thus, I realize how lucky I was – one just has to pay attention 100% at all times, think things through and not get too eager.
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