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Lorne @ Vancouver

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Posts posted by Lorne @ Vancouver

  1. There are a number of elements that could cause the failure for the PSE to change states. The most common would be the fuse, the PSE Vacuum Solenoid or muffler vacuum actuators. I doubt if its the actuators because both of them failing concurrently would be uncommon. So I'd say fuse or solenoid.

    What is puzzling is that when you pull the solenoid the mufflers didn't go to the 'loud' state.

    Running in the PSE loud state during your track day shouldn't have any effect.

    I have heard about the muffler failings on occasion; 1) the internal 'gate' the controls exhaust flow or 2) the baffles inside the muffler chambers. Once again both mufflers failing at the same time would be a long shot.

    Have your dealer check it out since you're still under warranty.

    Keep us posted regarding the cause and fix.

    Good Luck!

    Thanks for the response / input. Driving more with it today, it appears to be more random. Sometimes when turned "off", I am getting the PSE sound, other times when turned "on", it is quiet. All the other sport functions seem to work fine.

    I'll post whatever I learn from the dealer.

    Lorne

  2. I love the PSE on my 07 997S . . . the ability to turn it on and off with the Sport mode button, or run it full time by pulling the engine bay plug.

    Yesterday I was in the car and noticed that, when activating Sport mode, I was not getting the audible change in sound. Messing around with it in the garage last night, pulling the plug in the engine bay did not make any difference either. Instead there was a bit of a rattling, buzzy sound at idle and under throttle.

    On Tuesday last week I ran on the track at Pacific Raceways (Seattle area) and had the PSE on full time all day, with no problems.

    Question -- has anyone out there had a problem with their PSE failing like this? I will check fuses this morning, and it is under warranty so no big deal, but I am curious as to what is going on.

    Thanks for any advice.

    Lorne

  3. I understood that version was called the "track" version, and the racing version goes all the way back over the driver/passenger door. I had the "track" version of the 3M put on my 07 C2s. It covers the front bumper, full hood, front quarter panels all the way back to the doors, A pillars, headlights and driving lights.

    I love it - it takes a lot of worries away for me, about damage to the car. I will be tracking my car (a lot) so it was the only sensible thing to do.

    Following photo of the car shows you how the film looks. Right ... what film??

    There are some things to be aware of ...

    1. with the 3M product, there is still a line across the hood due to the size of the product roll that they deal with. That line, though, is about 2 inches off the top edge of the hood (near the windshield) so what in fact I have is a small triangle of product on each corner of the hood. I can live with that -- MUCH less visible than the 1/3 up line, especially on a black car.

    2. Having said that, my installer is waiting for a new product to come in (maybe the one mentioned above) and he is going to replace my hood coverage - he made a mistake on it and so it needs to be replaced anyways. We agreed to wait and he will put this new product on. Apparently there is less orange peel effect in it, as well.

    3. So, point #3 ... the installer is critical. My guy here in Vancouver (Jurgen at Downtown AutoSpa) has been frustrating to work with, but worth the effort - he made a mistake on the first hood install, leaving tiny bits of debris under the film. The only solution for that is to replace the film, which he is prepared to do, and to upgrade the film at no charge to me. So shop wisely!

    post-4812-1196780682.jpg

  4. To get Homelink to synch with some of the newer rolling code garage openers you need to press a button on the main opener unit (mounted on the ceiling) and then press your Homelink button within 30 seconds. Might be best to have two people unless you are fast down the ladder ;)

    I'll give it a try tomorrow, thanks ... but I didn't have to do that when I programmed my Audi a couple of years ago, when we moved into the house.

    L

    Loren -- thanks ... helpful tip. And the other good idea was to RTFM for the garage door opener. Doh!! Turns out there is a "learn" button on the overhead unit, as you suggested, that I needed to operate. Works like a charm now.

    Another resource for people looking for a solution, from another posting on this board ... http://www.homelink.com/training/train.taf

    Lorne

  5. To get Homelink to synch with some of the newer rolling code garage openers you need to press a button on the main opener unit (mounted on the ceiling) and then press your Homelink button within 30 seconds. Might be best to have two people unless you are fast down the ladder ;)

    I'll give it a try tomorrow, thanks ... but I didn't have to do that when I programmed my Audi a couple of years ago, when we moved into the house.

    L

  6. I have a shiny new 997S in my garage, two weeks old. I have been trying to get the homelink garage door opener to learn the code from my hand held unit to no avail. I go through the sequence in the manual, getting to the point of the fog lights flashing 3 times indicating the sequence is complete. But when I try to use the homelink opener in the car, nothing happen. Same result for all three buttons.

    Is there something I am missing here? I am baffled!

    thanks for any help

    Lorne @ YVR

  7. I am the new member liaison for PCA Canada West Region, Vancouver. Last weekend I was calling new members and got hold of one who told me about some of his business interests. He runs a company called Heritage Trim that does very high end interior trim manufacturing. Reports from the PCA guys here in Vancouver are that they do magnificent quality work, and some of their Jags have sold at Barrett JAckson auction for over $200 k.

    Now he is starting to get into some Porsche products, including seats. He is a partner with BAS International, major convertible top (or hoods, if your British) manufacturers, and as the above posts note they now have a replacement top for the Boxster. I understand that their manufacturing process is the same as for an OEM top, with the glass sealed into the top. Heater rear window, and the whole bit. He faxed over the promotional info that his UK partners sent him and I am waiting to see the photos -- they may be the same as the ones posted above.

    I asked if he wanted information out into this and other Boxster forums, but the fellow I spoke to was reluctant for me to put anything up on the web until he had his ducks lined up. He wants to get a top in, install it, check it all out, and figure out pricing. I just spoke with him to alert him that the word is out and he told me to go ahead and put a message out there, but that he isn't in a position yet to respond to questions. He is moving quite methodically and wants to be sure that there isn't a lot of fizz without product.

    So ... my suggestion is to sit tight for a couple of months, but that this looks like the real thing.

    FWIW, the pricing was £950 recommended for "supply and fit" -- fully installed, I assume. He could not tell me what the North American price would be .... too many variables yet to get sorted out.

    Stay tuned.

    Lorne @ Vancouver

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