Gary H

...thank you but I'm not getting the ET...mine is 58 - 11mm more than yours...so surely 23mm would put me back where yours is?

My aim:

1) Good clear distortion-free sound across the entire spectrum that's easy to listen to and appreciate with the roof down at 85mph.

2) Enough future-proof connectivity options and full integration of iphone/sat nav handsfree etc.

3) Keep everything looking as if Porsche had installed it themselves.

Simple really :)

I'll tackle point 2 first. I'm about to upgrade the Stereo a Pioneer AVIC double DIN all-singing all dancing unit and have bought a mounting kit made in the 'states that should integrate it perfectly into the dash. I've managed to track down a 'no smoking' hole-filler from a 996 which integrates into the dash perfectly..and will have a USB slot behind it. Coupled to the built in SD slot and DVD (which also plays DVD audio) and the full control of an Ipod from the central cubby not to mention Parrot Bluetooth, DAB, Freeview and Full European 3D satNav...that's all bases covered.

Till that goes in, I've got a Becker Traffic Pro: It's a single DIN unit that matches the dash exactly, but has the added advantage of European Sat Nav, Aux-in for an MP3 player and the best radio Tuner I've ever heard.

So, the Speakers. I've gone with Infinity Kappas for a number of reasons: This isn't a Sales pitch but suffice to say if you're using a standard factory wiring loom and modest power levels, then these are not only reasonably priced, but offer a very good sound.

The current set up is a pair of 4" Co-Ax's in the dash tops, a pair of 6.5" co-ax's in the doors and a single 6.5" Sub. 50Watts RMS into each of the 4 satellite drivers and 150w RMS into the Subwoofer - a CDT Audio 6.5+, chosen because of the sound quality - and quantity that can be produced by such a small speaker in a very small box. (7 litres IIRC)

I've said at the moment because I'm so impressed with the CDT Audio Sub, that I may be going for a 3-way CDT Audio system - 6" Mid Bass in the door, 4" Mid range in the dash and 1" silk tweeter in the A Pillar...

Dash top installs are fairly straightforward if you get a speaker that's shallow enough and can utilise the mounting ring from the original speaker - which you have to destroy to utilise.

Here you can clearly see the difference in the size of the magnet and the tweeter -

(as in there is one). Honestly for a Prestige Marque the standard fit speakers are 'king shocking.

So the bit you need to keep hold is the fitting ring that your 4" mounts to -

- and once mounted:

Once re-fitted, I prised off the Infinity badges from the (unused) grills and stuck them on the dash-top grills a la Bose system.

The Doors are a little more complicated.

Originally, with the 4 channel Amplifier upgrade, the doors are supposed to contain 5.25" 'sub-woofers' in plastic enclosures:

I managed to get hold of a guy on here, Albert, who made some custom enclosures from fibreglass and MDF by using an original enclosure as a mould, so I bought a pair and then thoroughly coated them in liquid dynamat and sheet noisekiller.

and then the insides were loosely packed with acoustic wadding -

which males the speaker sound like it's in a slightly bigger box, adding a little 'punch'

As you can see here, one of the advantages of the Infinity Kappa speaker is the tweeter on a pivot and +/- 3dB switch:

and finally fitted back in the door:

With the Sub, I didn't want to compromise leg room, so had to make use of the left hand corner of the passenger footwell. Marking out the area I could lose with masking tape:

and then covering the contours with packing tape...

for the messy, smelly, unpleasant bit: Making the back of the sub box with fibreglass matting, resin and hardener:

Once that had gone off, I used a series of cardboard templates to fabricate the front of the box:

I then attached a 6.5" MDF Spacer where I wanted the sub to be (ensuring there was enough clearance) and then stretched some cloth tightly over it and stapled it behind. Painted it with Fibre glass resin and added a very thin layer of glass matting. This gave me the shape without adding weight -

and then some P38/P40 for rigidity -

Once sanded, trimmed in carpet and a temporary grill fitted.

Sits securely in the corner. Whilst I'm more than happy with the sound, I'm not happy with the way it looks - it's not stealthy enough so will be re-making a box with the sub completely hidden, firing down from under the dash...

So, onto the Power. Really handy having the Battery in the front, it means that power runs are kept to an absolute minimum length. Keeping to the ethos that everything would be hidden - I didn't want to use the standard Amp location and decided a false floor would be the way to go, ensuring that the amps (one 4-channel and one 2-channel) were adequately cooled.)

So the component count is very simple: The two amps, a fused distribution block and a 1/2 Farad Stiffening capacitor. There is also a main fuse attached to the boot wall, approx 6” from the Battery.

The components were laid out on an MDF board cut to shape and then the cable runs decided on:

Then secured to the front boot floor:

I then templated and cut out a ‘floor’ from MDF, incorporating vent holes, a handle (made from Velcro) and a slot fan that shifts a surprising amount of air. This was then trimmed in black carpet -

(Can you see the face?!)

The final touch was to attach a luggage net to it and fit

And by filling in the holes left by the removal of the CD changer and amp, and attaching the warning triangle, I think it looks pretty stock:

Hi all

After spending hours with various offset calculators I'm almost there, but would really like someone's advice, who's done it:

I've just bought a set of Carrera III alloys:

Fronts: 8J x 18 ET 57

Rears: 10J x18 ET58

My current Turbo twists are:

Fronts: 7.5J x 18 ET50

Rears: 9J x 18 ET52

The car is a 2001 Boxster 986 3.2S

What I'm trying to work out is the size of Spacer required at the back - I currently have a 22mm and whilst it easily clears the strut, the tyre does stick out of the arch slightly.

The research I've done suggests a 15mm or an 18 mm spacer will be perfect, but not having the luxury to try before I buy I don't want to make a mistake and I'm finding mixed results re. rubbing - whilst the 18 will definitely work, will the 15 tuck in slightly without rubbing on the strut? I'm getting confused!

I've had advice that even 11mm spacers will work...and I'm now contemplating a fender roll!!

Cheers

Hood up or down?

Thanks - I looked at the Kumho because the R888's are out of stock. The only thing I could get were Hankook R-S2's which I've used before, as the V70's were out too. Then they ring me back and say I can have 3 tyres :)

So now I'm stuck with a decent road tyre rather than a track-oriented option.

An instructor said he'd heard good things about Vredestein Sessantas - in the option 2 sizing, they work out at £250 as opposed to £850 for the R888's (remember we also pay $8 a gallon :) ) so I'll give them a go

Hi - I need to get some tyres for a weekend at the Nurburgring and Spa this weekend and have just been told that my preferred tyres are out of stock in the standard sizes.

I'm running a pair of 987 17's (6.5's and 8.5's IIRC) and was going for a pair of 205/50's and 255/40'17's.

I've been offered the following:

Option 1:

215/45/17 & 235/45/17

Option 2:

225/45/17 & 245/40/17

My only concerns are: will a 235 be too narrow for the rear - and will a 225 be too wide for the front?

I need to do something today, so any help appreciated.

...and how did you pull them back?!

The rear trunk has an engine in the way and the front trunk has a gas tank. I wouldn't be surprised if these bulkheads were also ever so slightly structural.

The most common areas for subs are the rear shelf, passenger footwell and under the seats

Hey Albert - Just to say, after a panic at the post office, the door builds arrived on Saturday. Superb quality and surprisingly light.

I'll spray the insides with Dyna shield before adding wadding and coat the back with Dynamat Xtreme.

Thank you again for your effort - I am really pleased with them :)

No, that's great.

Cheers!

Thank you Loren - this'll be the same I take it without the DSP?

Cheers

Apologies, I've searched, but haven't got very far.

I'm looking to extend the speaker cables for the factory 4-channel amp to the floor area and am trying to find a diagram outlining what all the colour codes are on the two plugs going into the amp. Any help appreciated.

It's non-Bose, non-fibre optic.

Hi,

I've got an active subwoofer kicking around and was thinking of putting it behind my rear seats. Is there any power in that area? If nor where's the best place to run power to it. I was going to feed it off my back speakers.

Also could you let me know how I can get hold of the door boxes.

Thanks

Ravi

You have 'back' speakers?

Something here?

http://www.google.com/products?q=defroster+tab+repair+kit&lnk=qsugb

It's a Kevlar weave...and I live in the UK :D

After doing some research I decided on the Infinity Kappa 42.9i co-ax speakers as the replacements for my dash-top speakers. I'm not going for hi-fi, nor am I going for street bass, but 93dB/Watt is impressive.

Anyway, the procedure was fairly straightforward. There are plenty of guides on the web, but this is how I did it:

1) remove hex-screws with a tip. These should be hand-tight only.

2) Use a small screw driver to push the edge of the connector in to remove the socket. Curiously , this has a VW/Audi logo on it (!)

3) UPi may have a tweeter installed. Just snip the wires near the tweeter and leave it in situ, we won't be using it.

4) Thank your little helper, but tell him politely but firmly his help isn't needed :)

5) Don't let the fact that the paper coned original looks bigger...

6) Flip them over to see the obvious difference.

7) We only require the mounting ring from the original , so cut all the way round...

8) and then seprate by cutting out the cone by the rubber ring surround

9) What you're left with looks simple, but is invaluable for a quick and easy fix:

10) you will need to cut the lugs down, approx half-way and go for a trial fitting. It's better to have a tight fit than a loose one - as the four lugs will be the securing points on to the mounting ring

11) Once your happy with the fit, hot glue/silicone the bottoms of the lugs, and pull up the mounting ring. Once the glue has gone off/set, use the foam supplied with the speakers to seal the edge the whole way round

12) I decided to get rid of as much of the dirty, dusty crumbly foam from the inside of the grill as I could:

13) Finally, re-assemble the speaker with the now attached mounting ring back onto the grill housing using the three screws that you removed to take off the speaker.

The Kappas have a lead with a +ive and -ive junction box so rather than try and re-use the old connector, I simply cut off the connector, bared back the wires and screwed them in to the junction box. IIRC Yellow and Yellow/brown and red and red/brown were the speaker wire colours, the brown stripe indicating negative.

Before remounting the speakers, I managed to stuff approx 12" square of acoustic wadding down the cavity.

14) AS a final touch, I prised off the infinity badges from the original grills and managed to get them glued to the car's.

:cheers:

Awesome work there Albert.

Are the door enclosure the originals, but strengthened?

Looking good

No they are not the originals. I made them from fiberglass, mdf and the mounting ring is plywood covered with sound deadening material. They are sealed enclosures and extremely lightweight, not ported and heavy like the oem. I made them to fit the door cavity just like the factory enclosure with the exception of the bottom part.They replaced some baffles I cut out when I first got a pair of 6-1/2" speakers and the diffrence was incredible!

That's Awesome work! DO you have a baffle template, or more pictures?

Are the door enclosure the originals, but strengthened?

Looking good

There's a few things I'd like to add here.

Does anyone have proof of oiled filters contaminating MAFs? At what speed would air need to be hitting a filter for it to force the oil off and down the tract?

I'm sorry but the sheer number of people of chime in with 'oh it's not MAF-friendly' because they've heard some ones friend of a friend 'who's an engineer' mention it....Jeez!! :D

Anyway, if you're interested, see what K&N themselves say on the subject:http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

For more noise, there are two things you can do:

1) "De-Snorkel" This is a 10 minute job and get's rid of the funnel that directs (albeit slowed-down, hence quieter) air into the air box.

2) Buy this kit, or make one:

The roar from 4.5K is intense :D

Really well thought out and cleverly made.

If I was to make one suggestion? It may be worth buying the cheapest 4" speakers you can find, simply for the grills?

Good job though!

Hi guys - just wondering if anyone knows the thickness of the 996 TT sway bars and if they are a bolt-on for a 986S?

The thickness/compatibility will rule in/out whether they're worth going for over the MO30 RoW kit...so thanks in advance!

But again, I think the issue is what to do with the punctured tyre and wheel...especially if there are two of you!

FWIW, I've got rid of my spare tyre in the 986 and replaced it with a can of Slime sealant and a compressor...and made sure my Roadside Assistance is up to date :D

That's it! Checked with Porsche today :D

Hi - was fitting a BK Fire Extinguisher holder and notice this two-pin plug under the seat. this is right at the back of the seat

As seat heating is one of my up-coming projects, does this have anything to do with it?

Cheers