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Everything posted by belleriver

  1. Hello, I realize this is an old post but I just had the same thing happen as jss02996. I was starting my car and when I turned the key the roll over popped up. The rollover is up and my top is up/closed. I have no electrical issues other than my CD stopped working months ago. I have not done anything yet. I was going to lower the top until I read jss02996's post. I don't think I can get them down unless I lower the top. I do have a durametric in case I need to reset the roof, but I thought it was good to ask before I do anything. Any help would be
  2. I got the exact same symptoms 3300km (2000 miles) later, not as bad as before but i could feel it starting to happen. Cleaned my airfilter and maf sensor, problem gone. Sorry, I cant remember for sure but i dont think I got any codes. Im going to start cleaning mine every 2500km.
  3. Thanks for the tip. Just curious if you lowered yours or its at stock height?
  4. 18". Let me know if there are any other details i can share.
  5. seat removal is not complex. 4 bolts (torque to 65Nm) and an electrical connection if I remember right.
  6. It would be a function of how low you want to drop it. I dropped my C2 an inch and only changed out the springs (Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Set Front and Rear fitment). This combined with wheel spacers (7mm front 15mm rear) was the most I found I could drop it without running into any issues. I was able to get my alignment back to spec except the camber is just a hair out of the max spec. I have been able to manage the tire wear by pulling the rubber off and rotating them. There are adjustable lower control arms that would help. My ride is a little tighter but no major change in performance.
  7. update: cleaned my MAF and electrical connection to TB. running great for now...
  8. Wizard - I could not find any way on my Durametric to test Fuel delivery/pressure/pump. I hooked up my Durametric last night and got similar errors from before I replaced the TB even though my CEL was not on. (see pic below) I cleared the faults and it ran perfect. Based on this result I will proceed with judgejon's suggestions and try cleaning the MAF and electrical connection tonight. Based on the other posts I read, I also tried the PSM on/off when it was idling real rough but it made no difference. I think to properly assess this idea I will need to c
  9. So I replaced my throttle body on the weekend and did the reset on it, started it up. Ran great for 2 days. Last night on the way home the idle started to drop off then jump up and stabilize, but the car was still responsive. This morning started ok, idled a little rough, then after a few 100 meters the unresponsiveness started up again. Same exact problem I had before. Items replaced to date: ignition switch, cam sensors and throttle body. I would appreciate any input on possible next steps. It must be something electrical/intermittent because it comes
  10. I ordered the TB. Any chance I can get confirmation on the throttle body seal part number? is it 996-110-317-52 or 997.110.319.00?
  11. Hi Ahsai. thanks for the feedback. I should have said this in my original post... Yesterday I reset the CEL and did the throttle calibration. Afterwards, I checked the throttle position sensor target vs actual on my Durametric and everything appeared to be in sync ie actual = target. I think this is the test you are referring to. The car ran ok for a 5-10 miles then started acting up again. I will check out the Bosch part. hopefully its not the wiring. thanks for the clarification on the other sensor!
  12. I have a 2003 996 C2 convertible, manual, 124000km I have had several problems over the past few months. My electrical system appeared to be half on, AC fan would not run, no head lights, until I jiggled the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch (noticed it was cracked) and resolved that problem. The car would cut out at idle. I had a cam sensor error, so I replaced both. Now the car is intermittently unresponsive/sluggish. Over the past few years the car would become unresponsive or run real rough at start up. I would remove the throttle body, clean it and th
  13. I get that burning rubber smell all the time when I drive it hard. I feel the same way - good workout. It is a racecar, so drive it like one. If you maintain it properly it won't let you down. I'm not saying I beat the hell out of mine but I definately drive it aggresively any chance I have - otherwise you might as well own a Minivan!
  14. I changed mine out at around 80,000km (50,000 miles) driver side only.
  15. The GBox site refers to a "2nd gear pop out issue". Is this the shifter actually coming out of 2nd gear and staying in neutral until you manually put the shifter back in place? or does it feel like the gear is temporaily slipping and then re-engaged on its own? I think I have the same symptoms as Number9 - just wanted to double check I have the right fix for the problem.
  16. I'm very confident (but realize I could be wrong) that it is the air pump as I was able to put my hand on it at the momoent it was making the noise during idle and I could feel the vibration was in sync with the noise. I kept my hand on it until the pump came to a stop. While the pump was winding down you could hear the noise get louder, the frequency reduce and again the vibration was completely in sync with the noise. Noise and vibration stopped as the pump came to rest. The pump is made up of 2 fan blades anchored to the rotating shaft. There is a third blade positioned between them
  17. Checked it out on the weekend. Its definately my air pump making the sound. I pulled the pump and disassembled it but could not find anything obviously wrong with it. Plugged it back in, pulled the outlet hose with the engine running and it is pushing plenty of air. Maybe one of the blades is somehow out of balance? $500 new. Not sure if I'm going to replace it just yet.
  18. I'm an engineer - I love a good set of data :)
  19. Clutch up or down - same noise. I will pull the belt this weekend to check all the pulleys. I assume I am ok to spin each one by hand trying to get the noise to repeat. Just to double check, can anyone confirm there is no reason I should not do this to any of the components driven by the belt? Also, can anyone please tell me what the 1-8 items are in the attached diagram for reference.
  20. Thanks for the input. I normally hear the sound as soon as I start the engine. The car is not in gear and I have not moved yet. I will see if depressing the clutch changes anything as suggested before I do anything with the poly belt. Regarding secondary air injection pump, what does this do? Over the last few weeks I've noticed that when I take my foot off the gas with the clutch still engaged I do not get a nice smooth deceleration, its more of an uneven/staggered deceleration - could this be related?
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