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jmorgan456

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About jmorgan456

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    Member

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster 2.7
    1995 Camaro
    2004 Saab 9-5
  1. For those who post on PPBB. The family of "Porsche Pete" announced his passing today.
  2. I just had a bad CAT replaced free at the dealer on my 2000. I was told that the warranty is 10 years. That said, it depends on the part. I think also that the terms changed several times.
  3. Good thing I don't trust techs. I cleaned the MAF with CRC. That didn't clear it up entirely -- no codes but driveability concerns. Took it to the dealer - Turns out the pre-CAT was bad on the passenger side. Replaced F.O.C. under the 10 year warranty. Since then, no codes and better driveability. I have also since checked the vacuum lines. If not totally cured, I may swap out the MAF. But that is down the road.
  4. A few years back the Fairfield Porsche Dealer enabled the OBC and set up for temperature display. Thye did it as a courtesy during the 15K service. My car came stock with cruise so I can't comment
  5. I use a local hand wash place all the time -- no probs. I am sure the detail folks are rolling over -- but I drive it year round in CT.
  6. some out and out guesses -- 1) Perhaps the e-brake is rubbing after spirited driving. If you engage it it sometimes makes a rubbing noise. 2) a sticky caliper. 3) improper rims Again all out and out guesses
  7. when I first bought the car, I felt something similar. Over time I have gotten used to it. The tires tend to follow the crown of the road or the "ridge" created by heavy traffic. It is worse if the air pressure is low. Whether it is because of the stance of this car, the width of the tires or something else, I can't answer. My concern is that you are coming out of a Boxster. Perhaps the tires in the S are larger so the issue is more pronounced. Perhaps the prior owner set up the suspension differently. See if the problem only occurs on well worn roads or high crowned roads. If it i
  8. This does does work. I had my mechanic friend do it. We used a very long narrow metal pipe at the end of a valved hose. This was opened to little more than a trickle and placed next to and all along the vacuum lines and the intake couplings. No change in the engine. We then created a vacuum leak ad placed the pipe next to it. The engine immediatly revved higher. This simple test strongly suggests no vacuum leaks. He indicates it is not conclusive because it is "low tech." For instance an intermittent pinhole might not show. This was done outside on a windy day. He would strongly a
  9. A mechanic friend of mine says that (in the old days) they used to check for vacuum leaks with propane. Just take a torch and open it up a little. Put it adjacent to the lines you want to check. If the engine revs, you have a leak. This assumes great ventilation etc. Sounds questionable. Self Immolation for fun and profit? NOT FOR ME. So, am I just chicken? or will this really work. Safely? Assuming no, how does a DIY mechanic check for and find tiny leaks?
  10. I just installed new pads on my SAAB. They are made by Pagid. They are directional ! I found out the hard way. There are arrows on the back of the interior pads to indicate direction. The outsides are installed with the wear indicator down. Read the instructions -- DUH.
  11. Thanks for the input. Called The tech at Farnbacher Loles. He just asked one question, what is the mileage? told him 30,000. He said definitely change the MAF they just don't last over 30,000. If that doesn't fix it, then we have to chase the vacuum lines. Bottom line they fully expect MAF. The other stuff would be "zebras."
  12. I am working on an intermittent CEL. two codes cam up this winter 1130 (alone) and later 0103 (alone) Both times I cleaned the MAF. I am now keeping closer tabs. Today I downloaded fuel trims... LT 1 = -15.6 LT2 = - 16.4 Does this shed light on the sbject for anyone?
  13. not rotors -- pads. I am being told that you have to install the pads on a particular side. This makes no sense to me. The car is stock -- no drilled rotors
  14. I did not do any special changes. I did however, replace the stock filter. With another stock filter. This after I got the P1130 code several weeks back. I pulled the MAF today. I have the old 996 606 124 00 model. Should I upgrade to the 996 606 125 01 model? If I do, must the ECU be updated as well? Can I get either version from another supplier? $250.00 seems really pricey. Yeah, I know, be happy Its not a Ferrari. B)
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