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Philip54

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Everything posted by Philip54

  1. Thanks for the additional information, JFP. We'll see what happens after I disconnect the coolant sensor cable.
  2. Thanks for all the good information. My coolant tank, the tank sensor and all the coolant were replaced earlier this year. Considering all the difficulties in disconnecting the tank sensor, I will leave the tank sensor alone and I will disconnect the coolant sensor instead, for which access is easier. I am trying to figure out what is going on with my coolant gauge light. At this time that light blinks in slow mode all the time the engine is on, except if in the previous trip the coolant temperature did not exceed 88°C, because it was a short trip. In that situation the light will not start blinking, when the engine is started, and will start blinking again only when and if the coolant temperature exceeds 88°C. Previously the pattern was different and less regular, but that is the way it is these days. Note: I measured the 88°C temperature with Durametric. The coolant gauge does not provide a digital reading, but it seems to be pretty much in agreement with Durametric.
  3. Thanks for letting me know, JFP. In order to disconnect at the tank, is it necessary to unbolt the tank and lift the tank above its normal position? Or it can be done without moving the tank? Also, how is the connector released? I am asking because probably I will not be able to see the connector well, while I am trying to release it. Thanks
  4. I would like to run my car with the coolant reservoir sensor cable disconnected for a quick test, since the coolant light on the coolant temperature gauge continues to behave erratically. Access to the bottom the reservoir, where the cable connects to the sensor, does not seem very good. Would it be easier to disconnect the cable at the other end? How could this be accomplished? Thanks
  5. Thanks, JFP. I had some copper anti-seize in my garage and this is what I used.
  6. What would be a good alternative to the Optimoly TA specified in the owner manual? Thanks
  7. Thanks, Loren. I assume that, if I remove the caliper for getting access to the shims, I will not need to replace the caliper bolts. They are supposed to be replaced every time the calipers are removed, but, I think, that should apply only if you have driven the car at least a few thousand miles. The bolts are not expensive, I just don't have a spare set with me.
  8. The new OEM pad shims came with adhesive paper on the side of the shims that stays in contact with the pad backplate. I installed the shims with the paper on, because I did not read the tutorial of Loren carefully enough. But on the right wheel, while slipping one of the pad in, the paper came off anyway because the clearance for the pad was very small. As a result, on the right wheel now I have one pad shim with paper and one pad shim without paper. Can this be considered acceptable even if it is not to spec.? Thanks
  9. My 996 is finally in the shop for replacing the AC evaporator and the engine coolant. Dyes will be added both the coolant and the AC refrigerant. The instructions for the Uview coolant dye that I have purchased call for adding one FL ounce of dye to a ‘standard automotive radiator system’. It seems to me that the radiator system of the 996 is anything but standard, because it has a capacity of about 3 times the capacity of a typical 2 liter car. I plan on adding three FL ounces of dye instead of one. Does this seem right? Unfortunately Uview does not provide a dye/coolant ratio. Thanks
  10. Next week an independent shop will replace the leaking AC evaporator of my 996. This will be an opportunity for replacing the engine coolant. Since the car is more than 20 years old, leaks in AC system and in the engine cooling system may occur any time and I am considering having dyes placed in both systems to facilitate leak detection. I don’t know, though, if Porsche approves the use of dyes and, if it does, which dyes are approved. For my other vehicles I have purchased the AutoPRO dyes made by Energizer Auto (2 separate products, one for the AC system and one for the engine cooling system), but I am prepared to buy other products, if necessary. Any help on this will be appreciated. Thanks
  11. I recently changed the engine oil and I have now an oil leak from the oil filter cover cap that is quite noticeable with the engine running. Everything looked normal during the re-installation of the oil filter cover cap after changing the oil and initially there was no leak. I torqued the cover cap to 19 ft lbs as I normally do and when I re-checked the torque after noticing the leak this morning, the cap moved just a little bit. What could be the reason of the leak? I intend to install a new ring on the oil filter cover cap. I assume that it is not necessary to drain the oil completely to do this. How much oil should I plan to put in the engine? Now the oil level is at 80% of the distance between the min. level dot and max. level dot on the dipstick. Thanks
  12. The refrigerant leak, mentioned in a previous post, appears to be in the evaporator, which will need to be replaced. I am interested in the following procedures: Procedure for completely draining the coolant from the cooling system. After the evaporator has been replaced, I would like to refill the cooling system with the latest version of the Porsche coolant and I would prefer not to mix it at all with the old coolant, even if it is also from Porsche Procedure for flushing the AC system with nitrogen after evaporator replacement , apply vacuum for checking for leaks and remove any fluid from the system Procedures as the ones described above are available online, but could somebody kindly provide links to existing procedures that are specific to the 996 and have been successfully used by Renntech members? Thanks
  13. I have now a new AC compressor in my car, but unfortunately there is still a refrigerant leak in the AC system. The AC that was initially working fine with the new compressor is again not working. It was determined using a set of AC pressure gauges that there is still some refrigerant in the system, but not enough for the AC system to work. Refrigerant and dye were added (but not oil). Once the leak is found and repaired, more refrigerant will be added. How much PAG (I believe PAG146) oil should be added to the AC system and what should be the method to use to add the oil? I am concerned about the compressor getting damaged, if the quantity of oil in the system is not correct. Thanks
  14. I am in the process or replacing the passenger side window regulator. I assume that the OEM window regulator that I have just purchased is ready to use and does not need any additional grease. But does the old motor that I am re-using need any grease and if so, what type of grease should I use and where exactly should the grease be applied? Thanks
  15. In reply to the posts received: The Mahle part number (OX 128/1 D) is printed on the filter itself together with other numbers and letters that are not readable. I measured the filter and the dimensions match the dimensions listed in the post of JFP My guess at this point is that the filter is safe to use. For the future I would keep in mind the suggestion of buying from Sunset, especially considering that the prices of the filters offered by the vendors on Amazon.com has almost doubled in recent times and there is no longer a price advantage. Thanks to All
  16. I usually buy the oil filters from Amazon.com. This time they sent me a product that is slightly different from what they have sent to me in the past. The filter is made by Mahle as the filters previously purchased. The box is definitely shorter, I could not tell if the filter is also shorter. The part numbers on the box are: OX 128/1 D and 996-107-225-53/67. On this forum I have read that the correct oil filter part numbers for my car are 996-107-225-52 and 996-107-225-53. I am not sure if the part number number ending in 53/67 is also ok for my car. Could somebody let me know? Thanks
  17. The fan should come on if the temperature measured by the engine compartment sensor is above a 176F or the temperature of the engine coolant is above 216F (see message of Loren on Sept.28, 2014 for more information) It will come on if you have driven in slow traffic in hot weather or if you have been doing sport driving with high RPMs . I don't think it matters if it was a long drive or not.
  18. I am looking for a VIN decoder capable of identifying my 2000 996 factory options. I have already tried a few without success. Does anybody have one that works? Thanks
  19. Thanks, Loren. Would you recommend to use contact cleaner, compressed air or a product specifically designed to clean printed circuit boards?
  20. Thanks for your reply. I thought that, if the red light on the key illuminates when pressing the button, the circuit board is not broken and is working properly. Is that incorrect?
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