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AVIA8R

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Everything posted by AVIA8R

  1. If you're interested, I'm just about to sell my 04 CTT with 59k miles. All updates have been done and it's in immaculate shape. I have the Upsolute computer program and pre-cat bypass. I have brand-new tires (<5k miles) on color matched 22" rims and an extra set of rims. The car has been babied and I'm selling to get something more fuel efficient. 550+HP takes gas. I did take it to the drag strip once and did a 13.1 in thw quarter. Call if you're interested 937-603-0982. Matt
  2. I'm sorry to say, I highly doubt you could have it installed without a substantial cost. There's antennas that are installed in the driver's seat (to detect key to allow starting of engine), another in the door (unsure of exact location) that detect the key to allow you to open the doors and also entennas in the hatch area that actually detect the key incase you lay it in the back hatch and try to lock the doors. It's a pretty elaborate system, thus the high price from the factory (about $2k I think). I have the system and like it. It can be a little trempermental at times, but I'm glad I have it. Though, I doubt I would pay the initial cost if I was ordering the car new. It just happen to have it when I purchsed it. Sorry, probubly not the answer you wanted. I know, I've looked into installing the in-dash compass, TPMS, and heated stearting wheel and had to give up all those due to un-justifiable high cost. Have a good day. Matt
  3. Cayenne 17, Were you ever able to replace the C Piller covers without removing the window? I want to intall black ones. Any help would be GREATLY appreaciated. Matt
  4. I replaced both batteries in my 04 Cayenne TT about two years ago when I purchased the car with two new OEM units. I'm now having problems again with the car starting when I don't drive it for a few days. I've taken two business trips in the last month for more than a few days and came back to a dead battery. I connected my charger/tester and the batteries are at about 38%. I charge it up to 100% and don't have any issues again until I leave town and let it set. I've used the Optima batteries (Red top in a couple of cars and a yellow top in my wife's Escalade) and love them. They're great batteries and worth the money. I've seen a few posts regarding the Optima battery, but I can't find anyone that's posted that they actually did it. HAS ANYONE SUCCESUFLLY INSTALLED AN OPTIMA DRY-CELL BATTERY IN THE CAYENNE…EITHER UNDER THE SEAT OR IN THE TRUNK? Thank you ahead of time for any replies. Matt
  5. Thanks for reply PTEC. I will take a look again myself. I'm not 100% confident in the dealer's assessment. You made me laugh....I just replaced the cardan shaft bearing a few months ago and the lower control arm bushing last week. It's funny how we all have the same problems. It'd be nice to have a consolidated "Here's the things you're going to have to replace" list. I keep having things go and then find out "Yes, that's a problem area for the Cayenne". But, I still love the vehicle!!! It does so much.....Snow, Rain, Comfort, Speed, Looks!! Again, thank you. Matt
  6. My center dome light is not working in either position, to include the DOOR position (light comes on with door open). I didn't see in anyone's post if that was the case w/r to this topic. Did your light not turn on when the door was open either? Matt
  7. A few weeks ago, my driver's side door froze. I got it open, but the door trigger stopped working, i.e. the vehicle did not recognize when the driver's door was open. I took it (04 Cayenne TT) in and there was a broken switch near the door handle. I had it replaced (@ about $300). I also noticed the center dome light did not work either after the door freezing incident. The dealer could not get it to work either. The bulb is good (replaced it). The map lights are good. The dome light will not light with the doors open, nor by using the switch. Any suggestions? Matt
  8. I've had the Fabspeed Cat Bypass pipes on my 04 Cayenne TT for over a year. About a month ago, I started hearing a "thumping" noise from the driver's side of the engine compartment near my feet at heavy throttle imputs. At first, I thought it was one or more of the cylinder's missing due to a bad ignitor. It sounded similar when the ignitors went before and the cylinder's were missing. I had it in to the dealer and they said all cylinders are fireing with no issue and that the aftermarket pipes i installed were hitting the frame when the drivetrain was under load. Mostly due to the aftermarket pipes not having a third support like the factory pre-cat-pipes. Has anyone heard of this? If it is, why did it just start. My only guess is that the engine mounts are now getting more worn and allowing more movement of the engine. I have been down-shifting a lot more since I removed the exhaust about five months ago. Any suggestions??? Thank you in advance. Matt
  9. Sorry about the delay. Yes, I found-out. The clunking noise is the failure of the front bushing on the lower-control arm To repair you have two option. Remove the control arm and press-in a new bushing at about $600 or just replace the lower control arm (at $800ish) which, which gives you a new bushing in both the front and back and also gives you a new ball joint. I did some research and dealers are seeing the bushings go, but not a lot. And ball joints are going-out around 100k miles. So, I decided to replace the lower control arm since the other bushing was pretty worm already too. The dealer suggested I replace both since the bushings on the driver's side was also showing wear, but I couldn't get myself to throw-down another $800 for something that wasn't actually worn-out. I hope this helps. Matt
  10. Did you notice any unusual tire wear? I'm going to jack the car up this weekend. Is it obvious what part is making the noise, i.e. is there worn bushing, etc, to see? Thanks for the reply. Happy Holidays. Matt
  11. A few months back I would get a clunck when turning hard and the suspension was in the highest level. Gradually, the clunking become more and more often. Not, it happenes when I turn hard and/or have the suspension compress, like when braking. I assume it's a bushing or something like that. I'm pretty sure it's not a CV joint or bearning. I'm pretty sure it's a suspension part. Any ideas or previous experience? Thank you and Happy Holidays. Matt
  12. The clunking noise was a worn drive-shaft bearing. It holds the connection point between the two driveshats pieces. About $600. If it's worn as mine, you'll be able to see a gap between the shaft at the bearing holder underneath the car. Mine was completely gone. Good news is that the new one is greatly upgraded and doesn't fail as easily. Hope this helps. Matt It
  13. You know. That's funny that you mention the Entry-and-Drive. That's a rare option. I have it. Mine has worked good before and after the fix of the display other than the fact that I've NEVER been able to lock the car with the passenger side buttons. I can inlock, but not lock from the passenger side front or rear door.
  14. It's not the cluster, atleast I'm pretty sure it isn't since the message came up after the fix and I had replaced the cluster due to the digital display going out. I did a lot of research on this issue. Porsche knows of it, but doesn't have a fix. It's pretty rare. I know of only a few people it happening to. A guy had it back in 04 and a new cluster happen to fix his. Mine did not. What ended up fixing was the dealer adding additional grounds under the driver's seat. They did this since they found noise in the ground going to the cluster. I also recently had the most up-to-date transmission computer and software installed. It happened a few times about six months ago for just one day. But, other than that, it seems fixed. You can call or e-mail me to dicuss. I know how frustrating it can be to habve the f'n thing flash right at the bottom of your field of vision while you"re driving. Matthew.muha@us.af.mil. 9376030982. Good luck. Matt
  15. I've had the aftermarket wheels for almost 2 years with no issues. They still look great and have held up as good as any OEM wheel I've had. I would recommend them to anyone. Also, if you're interested in the 20" version of these wheeks, I still have them with tires mounted. I haven't had the time to put them on Ebay.
  16. I know...great vehicle with just a few very annoying querks. Ok. I spent a couple grand fixing mine. Hopefully you don't have to. They never found what was causing it. Only that there was "noise" in the ground to the transmissin computer. they added some extra grounding points to clean up the signal. That seemed to fix it. It came back once or twice for a day or so, but is pretty much fixed. Also, make sure you have the more up to date software in the computer. I hope this helped. I can't tell you how annoying it was for me....right in the line of sight!! Ugh, I wantted to put my fist through the dashboard one time when it did for two hours on a long drive......and it clicked when it did it to. Like it was saying "hey, look down here and see this!" Good luck. Feel free to contact me vie message if needed. matt
  17. Ok. Just crawled under. Now it looks like there are actually three pieces between the front grear box and rear differential. The first section is about 1.5' long. I looked the connection area at that point and there's a rubber bushing that I can see completely through. The shaft and the out support are completely loose from eachother. Is that the bearing in question? Is that torn area my problem? You guys are great...thank you so much. This is saving me (again) a lot of time, hassle, and money. Matt
  18. All, For the record. I'm not surprised at this since I've been down-shifting a LOT lately since I replaced the muffler in my CTT with straight pipes....SOUNDS AWESOME THOUGH!. (and it take a lot for me to say.....I'm 39 years old) LOL. I seriously have had dozens of compliments on the sound in the past month. Oh well, I guess that's the price tag of driving a 500+HP Superwagon. Again, thanks guys and have a great weekend. I'm going to order my shaft from Sunset now. Matt
  19. Thank you for your time. Other than the sound, is there a way looking/inspecting the driveshaft that one can tell if it's defenietly the shaft? Agian, thank you. I greatly appreciate your time. Matt
  20. I'm having this same issue. What was it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt
  21. 2004 Cayenne Turbo, Upsolute Chip, FAbspeed bypass pipes, and straight pipe exhaust. Last night I pulled out of my neighborhood and when I got hard on the throttle, there was a clunking sound. It sounded like it was under the vehicle. It was similar to the sound that the engine made after I put the Upsolute chip in and raised the boost, but before I replaced the ignitors. So, I immediatly thought my ignitors were going back again. But, it was not from the engine, nor did it change in tempo or magnitude with engine speed. If I applied a load in 6 until it started doing it and then down-shifted to 5th, there was no change in the sound. So, I'm thinking it's the transmission or one of the differential. To be honest, I'm sure I brought this on to myself. I replaced the muffler with straight pipes a few weeks back and have been down-shifting during deceleration a LOT. Any advice? I've searched the Forum and cannot find anything. Any help would be appreciated. Matt :renntech:
  22. FYI. I'm running Fabspeed 2nd Cat bypass pipes for a year or so on my 04 TT and still wanted it louder. I removed the muffler and had a guy fabricate straight pipes that bolts in to place (so I can put the muffler back if I like) and also used the factory tips (though, I did stick them out from under the bumper a little) and I LOVE THE SOUND. Seriously, I've had atleast 30 people (all guys) say "wow, that sounds incredible" or "what the hell does that have in it?". Great sound. And not bad at all on the highway in 6th gear. Warning....you'll down shift at every oportunity you get.
  23. I just changed my heated leather steering wheel and installed a dark rootwood wheel. The airbag warning light is now on. Did you have this happen to you? How did you fix it? Did the dealer have to change the code? If the answer is yes, what did they charge you? THANK YOU, JIM The airbag light will come on if the battery isn't disconnected prior to removal. I disconnected the ground before the job and re-connected after the install with no issues (no light). Someone else told me this happened to them and they had to take it to the dealer to get the light turned off. The airbag likely won't work until you do this. But, that's just my educated guess.
  24. I saw no change in part throttle, no/little boost driving conditions. The CTT's were always known for being a little un-smooth at partical throttle application. This upgrade doesn't make it better or worse. I love the upgrade and recommend it to everyone....especially for the money.
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