Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

damianc4s

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    20

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by damianc4s

  1. damianc4s
    You probably only need to change the inner section of the split arm. Not sure of the toque for the split sections but check a chart for that size bolt. But before you tighten the bolt that connects the arm to the car it should be siting in a weighted position. Hope this helps... Thanks!
  2. damianc4s
    Hello, I've just diagnosed a creaky lower control arm on my GT3 Mk2. The vertically aligned bush at the end had a split. Has anyone got any instructions, gotchas, torque settings etc that could make this job easier? I've got the replacement arm and all nuts and bolts due in the next few days so I'd like to be prepared beforehand. Many thanks, Damian
  3. damianc4s
    The best explanation Tool Pants and I have been able to come up with is that it is supposed keep loose items from falling in there and jamming the cables. Sounds reasonable......just :) Removed it's such a sweet and smooth movement, requires very little effort.
  4. damianc4s
    Did you actually buy new OEM spider shims? I've found re-using them just caused squealing. New shims have an adhesive backing that sticks to the back of the pad holding the pad firmly in place with the 2 & 3 pots. So unless you are prepared to try and apply a suitable high-temperature adhesive to the old shims just buy some new ones.
  5. damianc4s
    I removed the green plastic 'thing' from the lever assembly as it was causing additional friction to the movement. What purpose does this green thing actually do?
  6. damianc4s
    Hi Phil, Try the following: http://www.design911.co.uk/ http://www.jasmine-motorsport.co.uk/ But don't discount sourcing them from Gert Carnewal in Belgium http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm Damian
  7. damianc4s
    I looked at many ways of improving the standard braking, replacing the pads, the fluid etc and finally decided on Pagid RS29s all round (in hindsight I should have used Oranges for the rear) these give a considerable improvement in braking albeit with a little squeal in traffic. These pads will cause cracks to appear from the drilled holes in the rotor far, far quicker than the standard pads. I managed to crack them in just 2 days at Spa Francorchamps and 19 laps of the Nurburgring! I'm in contact with MBT Engineering in Germany (http://www.mbt-engineering.de) who can produce a mounting bell that is compatible with a suitable Brembo disc (drilled or grooved) that is mounted using the standard 10 bobbin bolts. Hope this information helps, I'll post more when I have it.
  8. damianc4s
    Thanks for the reply, I saw one on eBay and just posed the question. Basically if it worked and offered a minor improvement over my current Porsche Sound Package then it would be worth considering. I've already upgraded the speakers to MB Quart all round and didn't fancy replacing the MOST headunit and amp. Damian
  9. damianc4s
    Is it possible to simply swap the Porsche Hi-Fi MOST bus amp with a BOSE MOST bus amp? Has anyone tried this? Does it over an improvement? Do wires have to be cut because of plug differences. Many thanks, Damian
  10. damianc4s
    Many thanks Loren!
  11. damianc4s
    So to clarify, there is absolutely no difference between the rotors? Yet there is a different part number and a price premium (in the UK), Porsche GB claim it's a Motorsport part. I've got Pagid RS29 (Yellow) fitted on my C4S and stopping power is phenomenal :) just have to replace the rotors because of a few little cracks around the holes. Damian
  12. damianc4s
    What is actually the difference between the two? Do they have the same dimensions ie. thickness, mounting holes etc? Also if they fit a standard C4S do they provide a braking improvement? Many thanks, Damian
  13. damianc4s
    It happens to mine all the time, I initially thought it was the aircon but later found out that it is the CDR-23 'preparing' itself, calibrating the laser etc. Sometimes its a few seconds but I did have it calibrating for a entire lap of Snetterton (race circuit in England).....quite annoying! Damian
  14. damianc4s
    HI Kiko, I've been running with 235 on the front for quite a while now with no problems. I've always run Pirelli Corsa & Corsa System (N6) (for the winter/wet) which is the standard tyre for the GT3RS. This tyre change combined with a geometry setup to increase -ve camber and reduce toe-in has reduced/minimised the understeer characteristic. Damian
  15. damianc4s
    Excellent! Many thanks! Damian
  16. damianc4s
    I've looked and looked for instructions on how to remove the rear bumper on a 996 Carrera 4S to no avail. Does anyone have or can point me at some instructions? Many thanks, Damian
  17. damianc4s
    The door speakers are a standard 5.25" (13cm) unit, however it's the depth you've got to worry about (can't remember off hand), you might need to do a little cutting of the plastic surround do get it mounted. I needed to do this when fitting an Infinity unit. Damian
  18. damianc4s
    They are pretty strict at Castle Combe in Wiltshire having had many noise abatement orders served on them. All cars have to be checked prior to entering the track, several M3 and M3 CSLs all recorded 97db. They do have meters around the track but everyone must pass the 6ft/4500rpm test.
  19. damianc4s
    Thanks :) They measured it at about 6ft in the open! Damian
  20. damianc4s
    I was due to attend a trackday where a limit of 98db was placed on the cars. However when mine was tested it recorded the highest of the day (108.8db) much to my dismay! This test was performed at 4500rpm, so just around the power 'sweet spot'! I'm using the PSE without the bypass switch so I was expecting it to be loud but not that loud. So I'm wondering if the added effect of the Fabspeed Cold Air kit/BMC F1 really contributed to this. Does anyone have any decibel readings of a normally aspirated 996 in various states of 'tune' as a benchmark. Many thanks, Damian
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.