damianc4s

Hello,

I've just diagnosed a creaky lower control arm on my GT3 Mk2. The vertically aligned bush at the end had a split. Has anyone got any instructions, gotchas, torque settings etc that could make this job easier?

I've got the replacement arm and all nuts and bolts due in the next few days so I'd like to be prepared beforehand.

Many thanks,

Damian

You probably only need to change the inner section of the split arm. Not sure of the toque for the split sections but check a chart for that size bolt. But before you tighten the bolt that connects the arm to the car it should be siting in a weighted position. Hope this helps...

Thanks!

Hello,

I've just diagnosed a creaky lower control arm on my GT3 Mk2. The vertically aligned bush at the end had a split. Has anyone got any instructions, gotchas, torque settings etc that could make this job easier?

I've got the replacement arm and all nuts and bolts due in the next few days so I'd like to be prepared beforehand.

Many thanks,

Damian

I removed the green plastic 'thing' from the lever assembly as it was causing additional friction to the movement. What purpose does this green thing actually do?

The best explanation Tool Pants and I have been able to come up with is that it is supposed keep loose items from falling in there and jamming the cables.

Sounds reasonable......just :)

Removed it's such a sweet and smooth movement, requires very little effort.

Did you actually buy new OEM spider shims? I've found re-using them just caused squealing. New shims have an adhesive backing that sticks to the back of the pad holding the pad firmly in place with the 2 & 3 pots. So unless you are prepared to try and apply a suitable high-temperature adhesive to the old shims just buy some new ones.

I removed the green plastic 'thing' from the lever assembly as it was causing additional friction to the movement. What purpose does this green thing actually do?

Does anyone know a good place in the uk to pickup the clear rear lights to fit a 98 996 Carrera?

Will consider 2nd hand at the right price.

Thanks

Phil

Hi Phil,

Try the following:

http://www.design911.co.uk/

http://www.jasmine-motorsport.co.uk/

But don't discount sourcing them from Gert Carnewal in Belgium http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm

Damian

I looked at many ways of improving the standard braking, replacing the pads, the fluid etc and finally decided on Pagid RS29s all round (in hindsight I should have used Oranges for the rear) these give a considerable improvement in braking albeit with a little squeal in traffic. These pads will cause cracks to appear from the drilled holes in the rotor far, far quicker than the standard pads. I managed to crack them in just 2 days at Spa Francorchamps and 19 laps of the Nurburgring!

I'm in contact with MBT Engineering in Germany (http://www.mbt-engineering.de) who can produce a mounting bell that is compatible with a suitable Brembo disc (drilled or grooved) that is mounted using the standard 10 bobbin bolts.

Hope this information helps, I'll post more when I have it.

Bose has 11 or 12 spkrs, dep on cab or coupe. I think the amp is different (more channels and power). I doubt you can swap. If you are trying to change your hifi to bose, i'd go aftermarket instead to save money and get best sound.

Thanks for the reply, I saw one on eBay and just posed the question. Basically if it worked and offered a minor improvement over my current Porsche Sound Package then it would be worth considering. I've already upgraded the speakers to MB Quart all round and didn't fancy replacing the MOST headunit and amp.

Damian

Is it possible to simply swap the Porsche Hi-Fi MOST bus amp with a BOSE MOST bus amp? Has anyone tried this? Does it over an improvement? Do wires have to be cut because of plug differences.

Many thanks,

Damian

Many thanks Loren!

So to clarify, there is absolutely no difference between the rotors?

Yet there is a different part number and a price premium (in the UK), Porsche GB claim it's a Motorsport part.

I've got Pagid RS29 (Yellow) fitted on my C4S and stopping power is phenomenal :) just have to replace the rotors because of a few little cracks around the holes.

Damian

What is actually the difference between the two? Do they have the same dimensions ie. thickness, mounting holes etc? Also if they fit a standard C4S do they provide a braking improvement?

Many thanks,

Damian

I got in my car today and the CDR-23 was making a clicking noise. The radio was not on, and I had not yet put the key in the ignition. I pressed the eject button and the CD ejected, and the noise stopped. I put the CD back in, and all seemed fine. At the conclusion of my prior drive I had the radio on but I was not listening to the CD. I did not shut the radio; I just turned off the car.

I thought it might be an isolated incident, but the next time I got in the car, the same noise was happening. So for now I have removed the CD and left it out of the CDR-23.

Has anyone seen this behavior before? Is this a common failure?

In case it matters, the car is an 04 C4S.

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It happens to mine all the time, I initially thought it was the aircon but later found out that it is the CDR-23 'preparing' itself, calibrating the laser etc.

Sometimes its a few seconds but I did have it calibrating for a entire lap of Snetterton (race circuit in England).....quite annoying!

Damian

On a clear attempt to reduce understeer and to comply with the GT3's "N" rating of 235's I'm thinking about fitting 235 fr and 295 rear. The calculations say the rolling radius diferences are...

Brand new 235/295 = 1,7%

New 235 and worn 295 = 2,6%

New 225/295 = 0.5%

I think I read somewhere the max admisible difference on a 4wd would be 3% if this correct the 235/295 shouldn't present a problem on a TT...

Loren,

Whats your opinion on this one?

Best Wishes to you all

Francisco

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HI Kiko,

I've been running with 235 on the front for quite a while now with no problems. I've always run Pirelli Corsa & Corsa System (N6) (for the winter/wet) which is the standard tyre for the GT3RS.

This tyre change combined with a geometry setup to increase -ve camber and reduce toe-in has reduced/minimised the understeer characteristic.

Damian

Excellent! Many thanks!

Damian

I've looked and looked for instructions on how to remove the rear bumper on a 996 Carrera 4S to no avail. Does anyone have or can point me at some instructions?

Many thanks,

Damian

Hi there, my door speakers (non - Bose) are shot. Does anyone know of a direct bolt in replacement? Or at least the size I will need - diameter and maximum depth? Thank you

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The door speakers are a standard 5.25" (13cm) unit, however it's the depth you've got to worry about (can't remember off hand), you might need to do a little cutting of the plastic surround do get it mounted. I needed to do this when fitting an Infinity unit.

Damian

They are pretty strict at Castle Combe in Wiltshire having had many noise abatement orders served on them. All cars have to be checked prior to entering the track, several M3 and M3 CSLs all recorded 97db.

They do have meters around the track but everyone must pass the 6ft/4500rpm test.

Thanks :)

They measured it at about 6ft in the open!

Damian

I was due to attend a trackday where a limit of 98db was placed on the cars. However when mine was tested it recorded the highest of the day (108.8db) much to my dismay!

This test was performed at 4500rpm, so just around the power 'sweet spot'!

I'm using the PSE without the bypass switch so I was expecting it to be loud but not that loud. So I'm wondering if the added effect of the Fabspeed Cold Air kit/BMC F1 really contributed to this.

Does anyone have any decibel readings of a normally aspirated 996 in various states of 'tune' as a benchmark.

Many thanks,

Damian