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Everything posted by Papagut

  1. Just like it sounds - seems like my transfer case is locked up. I suspected the actuator, so I replaced it. The LED on the selector indicates reduced mode when I start up, if I put it into neutral and on the brake and attempt to turn reduced mode off, it will flash like it is attempting the change, then I get a 4WD error on the dash and the selector becomes inactive. Like it is attempting the switch, but fails. No sounds that I can detect from the actuator from within the car. When I was replacing the actuator, the there is a divot in the sprocket that did not line up, so I connec
  2. I'm going to chime in with my solution here just in case someone experiences a similar issue: I started with replacing coils and plugs in the cylinders that were misfiring as I wanted to rule that out. Simple solution really - almost all of the codes cleared up, starts and runs much more smoothly. I was not aware that warming up has an effect on coils/plugs - so I suppose I learned something there. Good luck if you run into the same issue. Mark
  3. Good morning, here is my challenge with my 2004 high mileage Cayenne Turbo: on initial startup, I get a very rough idle that will settle after a minute or two, after the typical start-up cycle, although it will remain a bit rough afterward as well. I ran my codes and came back with these: P0199 - engine oil sensor (more on that in a moment) P0021 - cam position timing over advanced or system performance B2 P0431 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2 Plus misfires on 1, 3, 4 P0446 - evaporative emission vent control implausible signal
  4. Great news! In my cayenne, I found wiring in both sides that was corroded, but only those wires that you were holding were corroded completely and causing my major problems. Nothing found in the back for me, and no moisture traveled that far, just drivers and passengers side front. Perhaps some of the other errors you are seeing are persistent and you just need the faults to be cleared? You may just need to drive it around a bit. I'll pass along one more related tip that has helped me out quite a bit for my electrical issues: under the carpet in front of the drivers side seat is w
  5. In my opinion you have absolutely found the source of your troubles. The symptoms were the same, and your picture may as well have been one I took myself. There were no wires in my harness that were left with an intentional dead ends, and I can even remember that particular wire being in a similar state. Mine had corroded away entirely just like the wires you are holding. I remember both times the wires terminated in a larger connection in my car, but mine is a 2004, so potentially different. Were these two lines the only two inside some tape that you have cleared away? If they were clearly th
  6. I have a development to share: after nearly 10 years, this same set of symptoms suddenly returned for me: brake proportioning, PSM, ABS, speedometer - all offline + can't put it into gear. I went straight to the same place that caused me trouble all that time ago: drivers side, under the carpet, right about where the footrest is, and exposed the wiring harness. Of all the reconnections and cleaning up that it did - there it was: one small power line had become corroded and broke loose. Cleaned and reconnected, all systems immediately back up. I'm not saying that there are not other causes for
  7. Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  8. I am thinking this is definitely a likely cause too. I replaced the ones running over the top of the engine a while back, they are all nice and intact, replaced the air-oil separator gasket, that has a nice seal now too, but the line that runs downward on the drivers side front of the engine - that is where I will look next. I think I will start a new topic specific to my idle issues with the codes that I am getting.
  9. Thanks for that information, I'll check that off my list of possible causes for my unstable idle issues.
  10. I just removed and cleaned my throttle body as a step in trying to get a nice stable idle, and I noticed that at rest, the plate is slightly open. Here are a few pictures to illustrate it - is that a normal state? After cleaning it, and it was moderately soiled, I also attempted to reset the adaptations via Durametric. Following the instructions, it says that once completed, the final value will read 14 - mine started at 11, and after following the process - ended right back at 11. Not sure if that is related so I thought it best to note that too. No other significant errors prese
  11. So, in the end I never got to try this solution... There was a HUGE storm in Calgary, flooding everywhere, and I was caught in it. I had to drive through mabye 24" of water at one point. It was something else! Anyhow, I park it for the evening, and when I go to fire it up the next morning - problem solved! Something obviously happened on that trip that caused it to reset in some way - but as soon as the back end dropped, it returned to level and is functioning normally. So, if you find yourself in the situation I did, I would definitely try bleeding off some air like wrinkledpants and paqu
  12. Strangely, I was wondering about giving that a try - I have the cover off at the compressor and will give it a shot and post back
  13. Hi, I have an interesting issue: my front wheels will adjust ride height, but my rear wheels will not - they are stuck in the highest position. When I start it up, I can hear the system attempt to raise the back end further, but since it is at it's maximum, this causes a system error eventually that locks out any manual adjustment. I suspect that this started when I did an extended job on this car and the right rear had a slow leak in the system someplace, and eventually dropped down to a very low position. What I thought I would find is that the height sensor on that corner may have broke
  14. Hi everyone, I have a slow oil leak happening at the far front drivers side of my 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I have it down to a fairly small area, but am not sure about the likely source as the whole area is a bit fouled up. Would you let me know what you think would be a likely source? I lose about 1 litre over maybe 6-9 months. First image is from inside the left wheel well looking forward, second and third images are from underneath the same location from different angles. Thanks, Mark
  15. Thanks, I am sure it is a break in the signal someplace, and there are plenty of modules under the passenger seat along with another in the cubby, which doesn't look like a typical amp to me - but I am going to have a good search for that connector. When I pulled the head unit, I had a good look at the connector. The thing is, I cannot seem to locate that same connector or set of lines anywhere else. Well, not immediately apparent anyhow. Would you expect it to be bundled within a wiring harness along with standard wiring? I'll post back with what I find.
  16. I'm back at work on this error - still unresolved. I did remove the head unit, checked all the connections, and paid special attention to the MOST connector - all seated nicely. I would now like to check that same connector at the navigation unit and amplifier, but am not certain of their location. I have had a fair amount of this car apart and have seen all kinds of modules, but none so far with that MOST connector. Can anyone shed some light on the specific locations - if I can get even a general or typical location, I will be able to ID the proper cable and check the connection. I d
  17. It's been a while, but I have an update on the squeek / hiss I was getting as the brake pedal is released. I did check the vacuum line and booster pump, that does seem relatively common for causing some issues. I had thought that perhaps a split and weak vacuum was causing what I was hearing in the cabin - but no, everything was in good shape. So, I removed the panel in the cabin where the pedals are and with the engine running - and it took a while to locate - I identified the culprit as the rubber boot that surrounds the rod that the brake pedal depresses. To elaborate: the boot is fixed
  18. Thanks for the image. I am quite certain it is seated properly into the rear of the head unit, but am going to double check. I will post back with the results as I move along. There has been a lot of electrical work on this truck - but it has been me that has been doing it. I think a break in the loop is a very good possibility, I definitely feel it is behaving as if modules are not present. I understand what you are saying about the "loop" - but this cable must enter and exit modules in other locations in the vehicle. I am thinking as a first step to check the terminal connections at each mod
  19. Good suggestions. I am pretty sure I have tried a rest, but I will give it a go again and post back the results just to be thorough. As for MOST / optic cable: where is the MOST module located - perhaps I can check the terminal ends of the optic cable first, then try just running an optic cable of my own through the cabin to rule a cable fault out.
  20. Hi there, I am experiencing some trouble with my head unit, here are the details: basic info: - moved from Ontario to Alberta, nav was functional in ON, did not have map disk for AB, so did not bother trying to use till recently when I purchased the proper disk. - nav is PCM 2.0 software 3.0, all other functions are normal symptoms: - after startup, get strange error: Unknown, unknown... image is attached - info < shows no satellites detected - date incorrect - nav slow to startup - when map starts, compass says north, points downward in display rather than upward as it usually does, do
  21. It was a bit of a cascade of errors - I am not sure if it was one problem that was causing a chain of events, but the worst was a disk proportioning error, along with ABS failure, shifting problems, and full PSM failure. The car would start, but the shifter would lock in park. In the end I had to remove the panel and manually disengage the lock to put it into gear and move it. A single fine wire with a corroded connection on the passenger side was causing all of this. But I have it feeling it could have been related to wheel sensors or something - a critical part of the system that caused ev
  22. That's really what got me - you have that thick harness running down both sides of the cabin, right where you are describing it, from behind the dash to under the seat close to the door. The whole thing is wrapped in a black fabric tape, and inside that is a thin clear plastic layer. The connectors I am talking about are actually inside the harness. There are a fair number of wires that are split and fused to one another inside the bundle itself. I was amazed when I found them - and relieved, and it was really frustrating me trying to get to the bottom of my problems. The connections are in di
  23. Hi there, I am about to flush out my brake fluid for the first time. I have a fairly good handle on the procedure, but have a few questions. 1) order: I understand it to be rear right, left rear, front right, front left - outside caliper of each first. 2) amount of fluid to draw out: my main question. When drawing the fluid, I have read a few posts saying it was sometimes difficult to tell when the new fluid was all the way through the system. I have a graded resevoir, so I was hoping someone would be able to give me an approximation of the amount of old fluid that will come from each
  24. Me too, I have a wanted listing up for a while now hoping for a Durametric cable. If I don't get one fairly soon, I will run down to my local shop and get a scan done and post the results. To support your idea, if you select AV, when in the past it gave a message saying something like "not present", I am now presented with a blank screen. I will post whatever I find out - any other ideas, let me know.
  25. Update: pulled the unit out and checked the connection to the GPS antenna, then opened the spoiler, replaced the GPS antenna and checked the connection there too. Still no luck. Navigation takes a long time to start, no satellites are being detected, and will not calculate routes (as it cannot identify it's current location). Any tips or ideas would be useful.
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