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skremese

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About skremese

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    Looking for 911.
  1. Sorry it's been so long since an update. I was out of town and have finally had the car at my local dealer for the last 1.5 weeks. Just a reminder, it's an '01 Turbo and it's almost completely stock. The only non-stock item in the drivetrain is the blow-off valves. Anyway, the dealer has been diagnosing it and has come to the conclusion it's not electrical. They hooked up their tester and was able to see map the slow advance of banks 1-3 vs 4-6. They were able to reproduce this 3 ways (my understanding): 1) with the cars computer hooked up 2) with the tester hooked up and telling the computer to do it and 3) with a 9 volt batter directly attached to the solenoid. All 3 ways they were able to see the slow advance on that bank. Previously my private mechanic has changed the solenoid (3 times) and has also had the engine out to change the variocam accumulator. The problem has persisted. When he was in the engine he said it was beautiful, totally clean, so didn't see any cause of oil restriction. He didn't do an exhaustive search as the problem seemed to be due to the accumulator. At this point my dealer wants $3800 just to take the engine out to explore. They can't tell me what worst case scenario would be (cost wise) other than to say "new engine". I'd like a better understanding what the issue could be and how much I may be in for. I may just choose to jettison the car. :( I really have my eye on a new GT3. :) Any help is appreciated!
  2. Hi All, I have a 2001 996 Turbo with about 58K miles on it. For the past ~3 years it's sporadically thrown p1341 code. When it initially happened my mechanic changed analyzed it and saw it wasn't advancing / going back at the correct rate. He was able to trigger the change with the tester so could easily see there was a problem. He checked out all the electrical items and decided the solenoid was most likely bad. He replaced that but the problem persisted. Upon his suggestion I continued to drive the car. Over the course of the next 2 years it through the code a couple of times every year but never seem to run rough. The problem started to bother me over the last 6 months and I perceived the car to stumble at times and it seemed to coincide with when the CEL came on and it was p1341. So I brought the car to my mechanic to have the actuator replaced. My mechanic dropped the engine and took it apart. He said the internals of the engine were pristine - no gunk in the oil, no dirt, etc. He replaced the actuator but also tested the old actuator - there was no sticking. Upon putting the car back together he tested and still sees the slow advance / retard and a pending CEL for P1341. At this point we're stumped. Any suggestion? To recap - all electrical lines were tested including swapping the left and right (he made an extension cable), the solenoid has been changed and the actuator has been changed. As I drove the car home from his shop it turned on the CEL. I'd appreciate any suggestions! Thanks, Steve
  3. I saw this thread that I started early last year has bubbled to the top again. I did go ahead and purchase the Kumho's and am glad to state that I'm very happy with them. I have put about 6000 miles on them and they are exactly what I suspected - not as sticky as the Michelin's or Pirelli's (never tried the Contis) but still very good, quiet (easily carry on a convo at highway speeds, no drumming noise), look great, and seem to be wearing very well. I have not driven the car extensively in rain but when I do I'm happy with the way they handle. I did also bring the car with the Kumho's to the track three times for DE days (once at Thunderhill, once at Infineon and one autocross). These tires, for me, are excellent. They are predictable in their breaking point both through feel as well as audible feedback. For someone learning at a DE event this is great because they really squeal near the breaking point. And then there is the price - they've gone up about $10 a tire since I bought them but are still almost 50% the price of the Mics. In my opinion, the 10-20% better grip in the Mics doesn't warrant the extra expense and reduced longevity. Besides, isn't a little bit of sliding at the track fun? And who drives that fast on the street (or should be)? :) But maybe I'm showing my age (did finally have a kid in the last year). -Steve
  4. All, I had my '01 Turbo to the dealer this week for 2 items - rough clutch pedal travel & notification from the instrument cluster that reading the oil level has failed. The dealer fixed the clutch pedal issue siting a bad accumulator. The oil level reading is proving to be more difficult. The dealer, as did I, assumed the problem was the oil level sender. Once a new part was installed on the wire (but not in the tank) the tech tested the system and still saw a failure. He stated he put his ohm meter on the wires (assume he followed the details in the diag manual) and it looks like a short in the wire somewhere. Now here's the kicker - they state this is not covered under my CPO warranty (most likely) and that it'll be probably $1000 and up to fix as it's a lot of time to find the break in the wire. Just for fun I removed the panels under the hood and looked at the wire bundles there as well as under the dash. There are soooo many! From the wiring diagrams it looks like the wires a Blue/Green & Black/Orange for sensor & ground respectively. I couldn't find them anywhere in front of the firewall. I was unable to see them (without dismantling any of the dash) under the dash. So, does anyone know how these wires are routed? Does this at all seem plausible? Does anyone think that this should be covered (car has only been serviced at Porsche dealer and I'm the 2nd owner). Finally, wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just run 2 new wires (this appears to be the only signal on these wires - it's a direct connection I guess and not a bus). Thanks for any help, Steve
  5. Hi all, I have an '01 TT and am wondering if it's possible to install a homelink transmitter into it. I checked Porsche's Tequipment and didn't find any reference to homelink. Does anyone know if it's possible to do? Where does the transmitter and switch reside? What are the part numbers and where can they be purchased? Thanks! -Steve
  6. Hi guys, I've had this question on my mind for quite some time. I've had my '01 TT to two driver education days and have noticed a change in the application of PSM - especially on the street. On turns where PSM would have kicked in fairly early before it seems to be letting me drive harder now after the 2 DE days. Same thing at the track - it doesn't really come on unless I'm getting the back end stepping out or the car's pushing in the turn (street tires still). The instructor I had for the 2 events has a C4 and swears the PSM system learns your driving style. I don't recall seeing any reference to this system being able to learn or adjust/adapt in the manual or on any forum but alas, it does seem like there's a difference (but maybe I'm just driving better :)). Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks, Steve
  7. Hi all, Been reading the forum for a while - thanks for all the great info! I have an '01 Turbo that I purchased used in May with 17K miles. I've got about 22k now and it's still riding on the original PZeros. While the tires have tread left they are very hard and slip a lot, especially when cold. I'm looking to get new tires. I do participate in occasioanl "driver education days" - intend to do 5-6 a year (have done 1 already and 1 aborted (long story - highway debris kicked up and punctured my front radiator on the way)). Anyway, I've been doing research on the forums, web & tirerack. While it seems almost universally agreed that the Michelin Pilot Sports & PS2s are the way to go they are roughly 2.5x more expensive than Kumho ECSTA SPT (from Tirerack anyway). So the question is - for the money, do the Kumho's suck? Are they way worse than the Mics in dry traction, noise & wear? I'm most concerned about dry traction (rarely drive the car in the wet), noise would be next as I do use the car for pleasure and wear is a distant 3rd since the Kumhos are so cheap. :) BTW - saw lots of folks advocating the Kumho MX but they don't seem to come in the right size for the TT rears (295/30). Any opinions anyone might have would be appreciated! Thanks in advance, Steve
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