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ARModen

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Everything posted by ARModen

  1. So I changed all of the fluids and I haven't tested it yet. The transfer case motor was hard to get to so I didn't change it yet. The technical bulletin and limited warranty information said the primary cause of the transfer case issues was bad fluid. So I changed all the fluids, ALL of them. Here's the interesting and mildly disturbing thing. The rear diff, transmission and transfer case fluids were all dark brown, smelly, gear oil. About what you'd expect from 80K miles. The transmission fluid I pumped in, and all over myself, is yellow and called gear oil (Getriebeöl). The transfer case was also yellow but a different part number. The PDK fluid I drained was clean, relatively new, and yellow. The new PDK fluid from the local dealership is greenish. The PDK drain plug was missing a crush ring. Coincidentally, when I first got the Macan @40K miles, it was also missing the crush ring on the oil plug. The dealership mechanics were deficient and the underlay was soaked in oil. (They also put the brake rotor with the big R on the left side.) Is it possible I've driven 40K miles with the PDK full of gear oil courtesy of some used dealership mechanic? I've always thought the PDK was a little sluggish... I'm almost excited to see what happens.
  2. The code came back after about 20 minutes of driving, so I guess I'm going to be doing a pretty full service of the transfercase/transmission this weekend
  3. I was also. They told me the only way to reprogram the module is by taking it out and sending it back to them. They weren't willing to send me the software to do it, and there was no other option. This was a lie. On the Mods4cars website there is a manual. The mods4cars part is the EXACT same as the flat 6 people sell. In fact the programming instructions using door buttons worked just like the mods manual states, so I was able to change settings without taking the hatch trim off. I'm surprised and disappointed in the flat 6 people after this. mods4cars product manual WWW.MODS4CARS.COM
  4. According to the internet the car has this module. According to my eyes and porsche it does not. great. All the codes are gone and it's driving fine now, so I guess I'll just wait till it gets bad enough to drop it at the dealership. Going to stick with the 996 and earlier from now one. No more audi stuff.
  5. This module is too pretty to be strapped under the car. Porsche calls it the "Control unit for dif. Controller. Differential Control Module" so I think it's the module that controls the transfer case control servo/motor. It controls the torque split. The car rolls just fine up and down the driveway because all the codes cleared when I was checking the wheel speed sensors. I rolled out into the street, turned the wheel and as soon as I moved forward the torque split went 100% forward and then I get a front diff overload, and it reverts to RWD only mode. I haven't had any mechanical binding and it first happened as I was cruising straight down the road @40 mph. Makes me think it's electrical problem. On the cayenne it is supposedly stacked with the PDK controller under the passenger seat. So I'm going to tilt that back and take a look. There has been water under the seat from the hurricane last year overwhelming my roof drains.
  6. I had a bunch of fault codes pop up related to the AWD/ABS/TC system. It's not the usual wheel speed sensor (replaced all of them already). From reading the internet it seems to be a fairly common issue with the AWD control module (95B927771). The dealer has none and they don't have an ETA from germany for a new one. So, instead of leaving it at the dealership for the next 6 weeks, I got one off ebay. My only problem is locating it in the car. The parts diagram clearly indicates that it is located in the car (thanks porsche). The service manual states "replace module". Is it up under the dash on the passenger side, drivers side, etc? If anyone has replaced one of these I'd love it if you'd save me a few hours of hunting and disassembling the interior. So far I'm finding absolutely nothing online about something that seems to have been replaced multiple times on some cars. It's a 2015 LHD, S. Thanks. So far I've checked both rear wheel wells, and pulled up all the carpet/trim on the front passenger side. No luck
  7. Did they ever give you information on how to change the settings on this module? There's a bunch of options that can be programmed by them, but they don't say anything about that when they sell the module. Mods4cars has one now, and their modules always have a software/firmware update option. They're the same people that make the auto up/down top modules.
  8. The answer here is NOT the PCCM+. That head unit is hot trash, especially for $1200. No OBC, volume controls are terrible, sound is worse, have to manually reconnect the bluetooth every time I use the USB, poor installation instructions, some cables are inches too short, while other cables (mic) are 10 feet too long, I can not read it at all with my sunglasses on, and I can't hear it with the top down!!!
  9. I would have someone else take the oil pan off and check to make sure there's nothing floating around in there. There's a screen on the oil pickup and some orings that might have come loose. It's a relatively easy but seriously messy job. I did it on my driveway and had oil in my ears. I read another post on the rennlist forums where that P1128 code was caused by a leaky oil fill cap, so that'd be about the same thing as the dipstick being loose. P1128 & P1130 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Boxster & Boxster S (986) Forum - P1128 & P1130 - Just purchased a 2001 986 with 69,000 miles. PO said that he was getting an occasional CEL. He said that he would clean the MAFS and erase the CEL. This would occur every 3 to 4 months. My interpretation of the codes is...
  10. I bought a 996 c2 convertible with ~100K miles on it pretty cheap a few months ago. Top/windows were a hot mess, thus the price. I kept it in the garage and fixed all of that. It has reverse parking sensors and PCM-1. I would like to add bluetooth to it and leave it stock. Temporarily I have a bluetooth cassette adapter that sounds tinny. I ended up getting frustrated with my boxster and did the GT3 delete, new marine head unit, and new speakers. I like the authenticity of the PCM (who had gps back in 1999?) and it displays a lot of computer data like gas mileage. Also the delete piece only comes in black, red, or tan now, and the interior is grey. And replacing the dash speakers sucks. Any opinion on which way to go? Or suggestions on better bluetooth solutions? I had the rennkit thing, and that's crap.
  11. My cars previous owner had opened the hydraulic bypass for emergency top operation and not closed it. That took me a few hours to figure out. Also if the engine lid is released the top won't operate properly, even if the lid looks like it's down all the way. That caught me twice.
  12. This is a pretty good thread on the replacement. It's not hard, but it can be a bit tricky. It's definitely installed at the factory before the whole soft top mechanism is installed so you have to work around that and move it back and forth to get at some of the bolts. You also need to make sure it's adjusted right before you close it up. I did my rears first then the door regulators, and then had to go back and adjust the rears again to get it to all work right.
  13. Resurrecting this thread since it was the only I saw about the fuchs. I am fixing up a 99 black 996 cab. It has the typical 18 inch turbo twist silver wheels. I was looking at the fuchs 18s with the black center and silver lip. They're on sale at suncoast for $4300. However rosepassion.com has them for ~$3200 with vat and shipping. Anyone have any experience with fitting these and that second site? I'll wait a bit to save $1100. That'd pretty much cover the cost of new rubber. Families of parts for Porsche 996 / 911 Carrera / 1999 / 996 carrera 2 / Cabrio / Manual gearbox, 6 speed WWW.ROSEPASSION.COM Porsche 996 / 911 Carrera 1999 996 carrera 2 Cabrio Manual gearbox, 6 speed https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/pk996fuchs.html
  14. Did you find an answer? I've discovered all the reasons why my top won't go up, the hard way recently.
  15. I fixed this originally by just plugging the old locking actuator back into the harness without connecting it to the column. As far as I can tell there was nothing wrong with anything, it just threw a random fault code. I think I could have fixed it easier by just having it towed to the dealership and having them reset it. Anyone know a good way to reset the alarm/immobilizer module without having to tow it to the dealership and getting screwed with a completely unnecessary towing charge?
  16. The second is actually located inside/underneath the subwoofer, which is where your spare tire would be. So if you have a spare you probably don't have the sub or the second battery. I think most ctt's have the second battery, along with the upgraded sound and subwoofer. If you remove a few bolts and disconnect the electrical connector, the sub will lift straight out and the battery box will be underneath it. Bad batteries and bad grounds are the main culprits is most electrical issues, especially the ones that seem really complicated or erratic.
  17. I used a short breaker bar with a floor jack under the end to get the nut loose. I believe it's 380ft-lbs but not positive. A 2-3 foot long wrench means ~200lbs of force so either reverse the floor jack plan, or stand on it. I probably won't even bother if I don't have a torque wrench with that range handy, just make it REAL tight with my breaker bar. I bought to the socket at Northern Tool. You may want to get a deep well so you don't need an extension to reach it.
  18. I have found the exact same problem with mine. I'm also going to fix it the same way, however, does anyone know the part number for this hose that is cracked? Mine is exactly the same as in the pictures, where the vacuum hose comes down and plugs into the other one. There are two part numbers, 95535557751 and 95535557951 both with the same description. I'm going to have to go back under the hood there because with how jumbled it is in there, it's hard to picture which is which.
  19. I'm not seeing any DIY on replacing the front CV joints and or stub axles. I assume this is because it is really easy... I'll take pictures just in case. Tools needed: 32mm 12 pt socket. (not 36mm as some online guides suggest)
  20. Some things to watch: if you don't get the o-ring seated right or it falls out while you're replacing the filter, the transmission won't be able to draw a suction on the oil in the pan and you won't be able to fill more than 3 quarts. Double check this before you tighten the filter in. When you fill initially, there are 3 steps. Fill till it starts to drain out, cycle the transmission through the gears, top off the pan. As the transmission heats up, the fluid is going to expand. If the transmission is at the right level when you start, at say 35C, it's going to dump fluid as it approaches 40. Full at 40C is the spec, so full at 39 is just a little extra and should be fine. Full at 41 is below completely full, also probably not a crisis. The key is not to expect to be able to pump more in once you've cycled the gears and topped it off once.
  21. Yeah check your connections. I caused that one time when I was taking the control module in the dash apart to replace the handle and some other stuff. So far I haven't seen the transmission shifting issue again. I guess it must have been a clogging solenoid valve port. Hopefully the thorough flush and cleaning took care of it. I've been driving it all week since the fluid change and it hasn't happened after the very first night. It didn't throw any transmission related codes when it happened. It gave me some misfire codes, but probably related to me doing 10mph in 6th gear.
  22. A lot of the complaints about the fiber system are based on people not understanding what the most system is limited to. It is only to connect the data from the cd changers, blue tooth gateway, and head unit with the amp. The speakers are just copper wires, and the connection to the can bus is just copper. With bluetooth and USB drives who needs cd changers anymore? Replace the amp in the back with a small multi-channel aftermarket one. You should be able to get all the speakers working then.
  23. Do you have the two battery option? It sounds like one of them might be dead. The car will start fine because the second battery is protected from full discharging, but it sounds like your house load battery is failing. Having an incorrect time can mess with the gps because the gps signals are timed coded, so I think the nav system is a symptom of some other problem.
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