IXXI

Hello you´ll find several wire shematics on the Pelican Site. The wire shematic from 1971 up to 1977 will fit your year as the color codes didn´t changed. The Flasher Relais is suitet behind the outher left Instrument ( Oil/Fuel Quantities) however most people pull the Oiltemp/Pressure Instrument as it is a bit larger für better acces. You also can get to it via the trunk. Mostly inoperating flashlights are caused by corroded Lamp contacts or corroded ground but US Cars with the Sidemarkers have there own issues. Some are caused by Turkey mechanics ( Quote from the Maestro). Grüsse

Hello as said before the 911/61 should be a Sportomatic T Engine with MFI and 6139 tells the same ( 6(Cyl)1(Type)3(Year)9(Sportomatic) the Count# 063 says it ist the 63 built engine in TE-Sportomatic i assume this engine was build in late Summer/Autum 1972. The US only T Engine with MFI later CIS hat a gold/yellow cooling fan shroud. 11 Blade Fan with Marelli Alternator. Should have the late Marelli Distributor. Porsche used a new reinforced Magnesium Engine Case with the 2,7 Carrera engine, that Case is named 7R (7th Revision). Previous 5R Cases where stricktly for use with 2,4L Engines and while Porsche switched all 2,7 and 2,4S and later 2,4E to 7R Cases the T engines "used" up the 5R Case stock. So from that point of view boring the 2,4 Case with 2,7 Cylinderbores is possible but will not be a good choice. 3,0 Engines on 7R Cases didn´t survived long enough in Raceing so Porsche was forced to design/build own MG Cases for the 2,8 and 3,0 RSR engines. Those cases are rare and quite expensive so most go for the later 930 Alloy Cases. The 2,4TE with MFI is "Chocked" by the MFI Setup and the problem is if you keep MFI you can step up to 2,4E or 2,4S Specs, but uncorking the MFI is very expensive. It would be simpler to get a Set Carburators either original Weber IDF or IDS or new PMO Designs. Tapp the MFI Injector holes and you have a 130-135 HP engine. Fitting 911 Solex or 911E Cams might push close to 160HP. Fitting 911S Cams will cost to much Tourque without adding top Horsepower as the T Heads are to restrictive to achive 911E or 911S Heads power Level. However if the engine needs a rebuild porting the heads to S-Spec and use the larger S-Valves isn´t that expensive. Today with single Spark Plug Ignition and 98Octane high Compression Pistons in Nicasil Cylinders a 2,4L will push short over 200HP while keeping driveable. However the T Engines have "simple" Cranks without Counterwights. The good thing ist the are some 5kg lighter then the S Cranks the bad thing is T-Crank will stress itself and the Case on hig rev levels so this isn´t a long term application. But using that engine in a 914 makes sense as the 914 Trany/Cluth is limitet to 180HP and also the stock 914/6 Heat exchangers/Headers will only support up to 180HP ( For higher output Porsche used Race headers or 916 Exchangers). Might contact Martin Schneider from MSDS for a 914/6 exhaustsystem. Grüsse

Hello VIN 911 1 1 1 8847 deciphers as follows; 911 > General Type 1 > Model-Year (Not actual Calendar year as Porsche counts Cars built after August Hollidays as new Year) 1 > Enginetype; T ( E would be 2 and S would be 3 ) 1 > Bodytype; Targa (Reutter/Factory) 1 > Transmission; Sportomatic (Not allways the rule) 8847 > Count# However in 1971 Porsche Stuttgart & Tamm built around 18000 Cars/Year so the 4 Digit Countnumber isn´t a Problem. The 2,2 should carry a Aluminum TYPSCHILD on the front trunk lid apron oppesit from the Waterbootle Neck wich should be rivetet with 4 Roundhead Alloy Rivets and there should be pressed up stamped (rissen Level): Herst.: Dr Ing Porsche KG and Type 911T/E/S. However in that Year Porsche changed to Dr Ing Porsche GmbH and Porsche used up the old Stock with KG (Kommandit Gesellschaft). The best would be to contact the Factory Cardex Service or Porsche Classic to verify what I decipher. Yet they will try to sale you the Factory Cardex Delivery Sheet "Geburtsurkunde" wich will contain alle Data from the Orderbook. However that money for the cardex could be better spend in good Books like Brad Johnsons Guide to Athentency or Paul Freres 911Story. To Verify that the VIN is correct you need to check the Bodynumber wich isn´t the VIN. These Number is stamped to the lower dash panel under Radio Cutout. To unhide the right (Offhand/Passenger) Kneepad needs to be unscrewed (3 Nuts with 10mm Wrench 2 Minute Work if done once (Know How), except AC Knee panels) The engine used in a 1971 T Sportomatic would be a Type 911/06 and Count# 611 9001 to 9XXX. The 911/06 should have Zenith TIN Carbs and a Marelli Distrubutor. On some US Cars the aircleaner was upgraded to Injection Version with Cold Start fuel Sprayer Rail. Those Zenith Carbs tend to get eaten up by modern fuels with MTBE or high percentage Alcaholics. So mostly you will find a Set Weber IDT. Grüsse

Hello Rocker failures are mostly based on oilproblems (wear) or overload (shear) best would be to contact the engine builder/tuner. Most 964 Biturbo upgrades where based on TTP Development. (Lotec/Turbo Technik Pietz) Factory stock engines are built to 6800/min rev limt on the Hardware side. The weak point in the stock engines are the 7mm Rod Bolts. While they will survive 6800rpm at 100%load at fulltime, higher revs cause higher failure rates and abouve 7500/min the fail risk is higher then the survivaliance rate. However Turbo Kits came with lighter Pistons adding additional save rev margin. Now if you realy RACE that 917 with that engine you should find al local expert on race preperation and building race engines. If you can´t find one in the US would be Steve Weimer or Andial a good start point. On any Porsche Club Race weekend you can find local experts or Advice from Drivers. Grüsse

Hello the VIN descripes the build year, officialy the Modelyear runs from main vaction to main vacation wich is mostly late summer. So cars build after august/September are from the coming new year. The 1984 Year has the Code E, 1985 has E, 1986 has G,, Now the 3,2L build before the august are build in sequence with SC and run as 1984 Models yet those cars have time stamps around July 1983 and some preproduction specials (Like the smaller SC Brakes and the Trany without oilcooler). The main difference is that the DME wireloom is much thiner and routet trough the CIS wireloomhole. If you want to go sure about the build month just pull the clock or the Tank instrument and check the Date Stamp it will show year and month. Instruments whern´t shiped just in time so Porsche stocked them inbetween however the Porsche date stamp tells when the stock was inspectet by Porsche and moved to the production line so 1 to 5 days after the date stamp they went into the car. However pre 85 ROW came without Cat so someone retrofittet the Cat with the O2 Sensor the question is who has done it and how? The factory had several upgrade Kids, your 1984 ROW should be a 231HP 10,3:1 CR engine wich was made to run 98 ROZ and needs adjustment with the fuel Quality switch to run 95ROZ. Factory installation adds tree stickers one to the engine bay showing new specs and one to the fuel flap and the Fuel instrument gauge showing the needed fuel quality. Also you get a inlay for the manual and the TÜV approval for the maintenance book. As the factory swaps the complet DME brain it will have the correkt sticker and Order #. Now the factory offered two retrofit Versions the early ones ratet with 208HP as the 9,5:1 CR US versions and used the very restrictive Catalytic Converters, later the factory used the improved Converter and the kit was ratet 220HP with 95ROZ Fuel. Beside the factory some Porsche Tuners and indipend Exhauts companys also offered Retrofits for ROW with TÜV approval. The difference is the factory kits swaped the complete DME harness and the DME Brain to the newer Versions, the aftermarked Version where much lower in Price and had mostly a additional O2 sensorharness and a remaped chip to be switched into the original DME Brain. Now here comes a funny thing the 3,2L 231HP versions could pass the US Emmisions without a catalytic converter just equiped with the secoundary air pump (Swiss, Norway, Sweden versions) and using the much cleaner european fuel. So some US Grayimprters just added a used Ctalytic converter and passed the Emmisons test without problem as long they had enough german fuel in the tank. So the Catalytic Converter was just there to make ist trough the visual test and the US emmisions test with the blue pill in the exhaust was easy to pass even a 4 Gas tester like used in germany would indicate a working system as long noone woud check it on the rolling road or test if the O2 sensor can regulate rich and lean within the allowed timeframe. So if the 911 was delivered to 49 US Staates without the smog Nazis noone would care if the system actually works. Grüsse

Hello This is a 1988 Wireplan set; http://www.911c1.de/porsche/Schaltplaene/plaene1-10_carrera_32.pdf but not to usefull,,, be carefull the pre 85 3,2L main wireloom is still based on the SC wireloom has some other colors and a other 14 pin connector interface in the engine bay but the frontend and dash is very close to SC. Still try to find a 84 ROW wireplan online. here in germany you can go to the next Porsche Dealer and lay down your Papers and the parts dep will order the correct wire shematic set to the VIN make sure they order the complete set with the additional sheets (84 ROW Coupe should have som 20 Pages just look over at Pelicans parts at the US SC wire shematic page). The basic function from the Seatbeltremainderlight is just to burn after turning the ignition key. The warning lights for the brakes should be split in two chambers on is for the fluidlevel and the differential pressure wich warns if one brake circuit fails. The other light is for the handbrakelever and for the brake pad warn contacts (if not tricked ot by previuos owener). Maybe the car still has the operators manual wich will explain the idiot lights. Grüsse

Hello playing with the CIS can lead to flooding engines and exploding Manifolds. Floddeed engines don´t start and craked manifoldes make a hard start. Right now the first thing to check would be if the fuelpumps runs correct.The fuelpump only runs while the starter turns and/or when the choke plate on the CIS regulator is liftet off. Now a funny thing that can happen is if someone removed the manifold unit with the CIS and didn´t mark the wires you can swap the fuel contact wire with the cold start injector wire. The engine will start but run very rich and has a lousy performance. Right now my forst check would be if the manifodld doesn´t have cracks or an air leak is somwhere else. The 6 Manifold runners can come loose on the head and the flanges do warp over the years and the plastic inserts for the injectors can leak as well. This will explain some from the poor performance. Now finding and fixing CIS Problems start with messuring the Fuelsystempressure and the Working pressure drop relatet to the WUR timing. The CIS messuring unit have a main plunger inside wich has a rubber seal who can swell over the time ( deppending on the fuel) and if water is in the fuelsystem the plunger can rust and stick. There is a reseal set wich is aviable at Bosch or Mercedes Benz. On he old rennlist section is a user page with the complete CIS papers and a trouble shoot tree. Grüsse

Hello Fuellines and the Ventlines to age and some do shrink and crack other swell and develope "bubbels". US Fuel is a strange mixture. The 3,2 Fuel System has two steel tubes runing trough the middletunnel and high pressure hoses with press on fittings. Now in the 80´s the manufactorer from the rubber fuel lines garantied they will survive at least 9 years even under US Conditions. Today a great number of cars still have the factory rubber lines, some cars got new factory lines and some cars got aftermarked rubber lines wich where made from more affordabele Materiel wich will nocz last 9 years some are even with rubber from the OEM but a lower Quality. The Ventlines are made from a special Material and somtime got replaced by simple PVC Clear Hoses. And like mentioned from Skip the vent system from the feuel tablshould be checked yet 87on cars have a other filler neck system with a plastic housing under the wing flap so things look different. The most important fuellines are the high pressure fuellines in the enginebay especialy the one runing between the fuelrails connecting them and routet behind the Fan shroud, those get hard and shrink developing small ceacks somtimes you can smell them inside far before thy let off sometimes those rubberlines will just snap filling the enginebay with fuel. Mostly the engine will starve due missing fuelpressure, people stop and call the road assistance but sometimes it is better to have a fire extengguisher in the car a now forbiden Halon Extenguisher will kill the fire witoz to much resudies in the engine bay a modern powder unit will stop the fire but adds more work to fix up the enginebay. Grüsse

Hallo 1983 factory wire looms on ROW cars without catalytic converter aint have the O2 Sensorcable, In 1984 the sonsorcable came with all cars yet ROW without CAT had the cable rolled up into the rear DME wireloom you can find it mostly behind the rear Fuse box carrier. 1985,5 the wirloom changed the O2 Sensorcable from a single spade conector on the end of a single braided wireloom (RF shielding) to the 3 prong Canon rubber connector and the O2 senors got a preheating yet no seperate ground via wireloom. on 85on cars you will find a plastic connector clamp on the left main beam on non CAT cars there is a rubber cap with a resistor wire loom on the socket. Pre 85,5 cars have a sheet metal strip clamp for the O2 wire. However 1985, 1985,5 and 1986 is a bit "unsharp" seems Porsche used up some 85 wirelooms in 85,5 and some 86 cars as well. Normaly if you have the new dash with the large outher vents you have the 85,5 DME wireloom. Grüsse

Hello ROW cars don´t have the Key buzzer and therefore miss that litte switch in the steering lock and also have a ROW Wireloom wihhout buzzer. Not sure about sweden/norweagan as they also have the seat belt lock light mandatory but ROW came without seatbelt lock light. The fasten seatbelt in ROW goes on when you turn the ignition key and goes of after engine runs in several secounds. The timer is set by the idiot light from the alternator Sweden/Norway and late Switzerland have the Seatbelt function from the US cars so you will find the seat occupationswitch and the contact switch from the beltlock. The Brake warning light has a Nand/Nor logig gater and operates for the brake fluid sensor,differential pressure, the brake pad sensors and the parkbrake. There is single idiot light and doubel idiot light version with integratet warning buzzer. The Parking brake switch is itegratet in the rear from the handle so to check that you have to remove the heating unit and loose the Prking brake handle much simpler is to remove the heating unit tehn losse the adjustment screw on the switch and move the switch until the light goes on/off. If it ain´t work you can look at the steel rivet who holds the cooper contact if it is lose the cooper contact might feel off. If not then remove the brake lever base lift the rear and check if the spadeconnector sits correct. To work on the heating unit/brake lever it is the best to remove the passengerseat. You also can check the wire to the switch for conntiunity and make a local ground to check if the Warning light works. Grüsse

Hello some additional hints; The next time the throttle sticks then turn the left food inwards and push it behind te pedal (Or if left foot is on the brake use the right foot). If pushing the pedal upwards "frees" the situation there are some simple points. 1977 should have the Rubber throttle pedal with the internal returnspring, if replaced with the newer Plastic throttle pedal you need a additional spring as return aid device. That spring s mostly placed on the interlinkrod on the trany with a lash under one axle housing bolt. Now the Spring in the rubber peadl base can rust away. The main reason for the spring ist to keep the throttle linkage under tension to avoid ratteling sounds and vibraition to the next uplink on the trany. Ther is a nose barrier in the long rod on the hight from the rear bulkhead that "Barrelroll" isolets the sound but has a slight longtitutinal play. Those barrels age and teh rubber inside comes lose then the play is very high and the lose end ist siting on the outer circumfernece from the barrel making slight sounds and adding some additionl trrootlepaly mostly enough to avoid 100 full throttle on the rear (cost some 10% total power, but aids MPG fuel consumption) Check if the Pedal stop screw is adjustet correct, if you can overpush the Pedal beound the needed way into the engine bay the throttle rod will bend upwards and the the forward reverse lever will "snap" over beyound his dead center and will not return by itself. This problem is known to 356, 911, 914 so most old mechanics know it yet they hate to crawl down remove the the acessplate and fiddele the interlink out. (Spoils the day) The thing ist if the Stop is to deep the interlik will be bend all the time, gets weaker and some day breaks off. This problem is often seen if people drive a new SC Plastic Pedal without Stop adjustment, if Stop screw is removed or the complete Pedal Baord is removed or someones swaped the plywoodboard to an aftermarked unit without Stop. Next thing to check would be; lift the car remove the forward throttle rod from the intermediade link on the trany then pull the upwardlink to throttle intermediatelink on the engine. Sometimes you will find the upwardlink is bend and while pulling the link down the upper end from the rod has a long ball socket wich runs trough the longitutinal cutout from the forward left hand enginebay sheet metal. When you see the rod touching the lower edge from the coutout you will find a postion where it can "hang" on the clampnut for the ball socket or the ball socket itself will bind on the cutout. Now to fix that you simply have to renew the mostly vanished by aging plastic bushings in the intermedia lever on the engine. If you open the engine bay you will find the alloy bracket with the interlinkrod, just grab it an see if it has play. there should be no more then 1 mm sideways and/or upwards. The next is on the inner lever you will find a asysmetrical return tension spring with the other end is hanged into a small hook on the undeside from the middle Manifoldrunner (Cyl 2). Those springs sometimes come loose but mostly on an engine job the mechanic didn´t had the patience to fumble that **** coillspring back into to postion.If you have big hands and had a hard day with much coffee to keep yourself "alive" that thing is nearly impossible for right handers. Btw to gain acces to that spot it helps to remove the blowerunit so you can work with both arms on the spot. There are several ways, one is to run the right arm behind the CIS unit to reach the intermediatelever from backwards grab with a angled longnose plier in the forward end from the tension spring then insert the tension spring into the hook on the manifold and pull the forward end with the plier until you can insert the tension coil into the hole in the lever. A. other way is to insert the tension coil in the lever then run small string from the rear underneath the manifold trough the coil end and pull the coil spring with the string backwards then trey to hit the hook on the manifold and use the finger/s from the other hand to push the coilspring into the correct spot. However US versions with the mandatory double throttle plate return spring might not need the tension spring as ROW Cars with single throttle return spring so reneing the 2 bushings in the bracket will do it untill the day the engien comes out from the shell (Clutchwork. leaking oil pressure sensor, air leaking manifolds or blown CIS Manifold) then on the workbench installing the tension coil is a puff Now if anything from the abouve is true i would think about the people who usuallay make the maintenance and repair work to the car. Those are things who are checked by a Mechanic and on a Testdrive you can feel with your right foot if the Pedalstop ist correct at least high enough to avoid bending the returnlink (You can actually feel how the link is bend). The problem is with mechanics from the newer Generation they never where thought to repair something before it breaks/fails they always wait untill the parts is beyound repair as they either never learnt to repair something as most parts are made to be swaped with a new part and those mechanics know that modern cars are made to survive 5 Years without doing anything but sit and wait untill something fails. If it fails while warranty then the Car manufactorer/Importer pays the bill, ok they mostly pay flatrate wich deosn´t help macking an income. If the same part fails beyound the factory waranty the flatrate is added by additional costs the Car manufatorer will not pay. So if you run a modern Car Buisness and you have modern mechanics they never learned to lube something to prolong servicelife nor did they repair something at the spot where repair is possible and is on the long run cheaper then renewing the faild unit and have trouble with your costumer stranding somewhere in the jungle. The other problem is the most young Porsche mechanics learned on watercooled cars and most 911 they worked on where Motronic versions. Now my problem as a Porsche mechanic is if i see a car wehere even simplest things where not maintained you should spend a day looking trough anything thoe cars are mostly as bag full of potential problems waitung to snap at the rigt time and the right spot. Now on a 911S the first things i would check are the now very expensive alloy front calipers, the condition from the CIS unit and everything relatet to CIS/Ignition as anything wrong on that isse can blow the Manifold, flood the engine with fuel or burn the car down. However as a fact many costumers aid to the situation if you tell them as a mechanic "that" part ist worn and needs to be attented or fixed they think you will brush them for additional income.Then they drive somewhere else to a other mechanic who tells the thing works it is not new but will last long enough so why touch a perfect runing system ? 1977 CIS should still have the Handthrottlellever wich is just a simple plastic fork puhsing a alloy barrel clamped on the throttlel rod. On very aged cars the plastic fork gets britle and wears down braks off the lever base an tilts around the rod so the lever lays upside down with the end on the middletunnelfloor. Now on full throttle the lever is draged with the rod forward and when releasing the throttle the leverend can stick on the tunnel flour especialy on the sheetmetalstrip that fixes the Brake line there and the barrel stops the throttle somwhere. Tis is a rare occurance i never had seen it peronaly but i know it from an retired race mecahnic ( Those are thouse woundering storys you spend hours finding the culprid ). I guess that only happens once as the chance the fail repeats lowers each time the plastic lever is ramed into the situation. Those hint is just if you can´t find anything and start loosing fate in the withcraft car ;) Grüsse (OK if you can´t follow my description then go to Porsche.com and download the 911 74-77 Spare parts Catalog as Pdf then you will find the throttle acctuation splittet into the forward section on maingroup 7 sections 01 forward picture 05 for handlever, section 2 picture 00 and 05 for Pedals and main rod links up into the engine bay wich is shown in maingroup 1 section 07 picture 00 and 05. BTW Grüsse ain´t my name is Greetings in german

Hello Porsche Factory Antenna-Mast- Positions if not specified by costumer wish: Manual Areal is on the driver side, Remote Handwinder or Electric Areal is on the Passengerside ( 356, 911, 914, 924, 944 not 928) However 911 with Factory AC had sometimes Manual Areal on the Passengerside. VW 914 (Type47) made at Karmann had Areal always on driverside but if the Type 47 came without Radio the Dealers installed the Areal where ever they wantet so most Porsche Dealers put the Porsche Areal shema to the VW as well. VW Dealers didn´t know. I guess Brett Johnsons Book to Authenticy covers that detail. 914/6 Fuelpump sits on the same location as all 914 Fuelpumps up to 1974, on the Passengerside underpancorner close to te bulkhead ( See the cable running trough the sheetmatl in the bay). That spot is close to the Blow Off Opening from the RHD Heatexchanger Valve and so that corner can get very hot and adds Vapor to the Fuelsystem. Most 914 Specialist relocate the Fuelpump to the 1974 on loctaion under the Fuel Tank. Some relocate them to the same position like the 911 Fuelpumps boltet to the front axle carrier wich is simple if swaped to the 1974 on Alloy Steeringrack Carrier. The original Location needs high wind volumes to soak the heat away wich didn´t work in Stop&Go or while cruising in hot Staates. While new Fuelpumps can handle vapour aged fuelpumps hit vapor lock. Due the other heat excahnger and Heat Valve location Vapor Lock was not a 914/6 Problem in ROW. It only happend in Hot Areas and mostly aided by poor fuel and aged fuel systems. However the 914/4 had soon Vapor Lock in the USA and in Germany as well. The dealers in the 70´s did following to help on or prevent vapor lock: - Adding a checkvalve in the suction line - Fabrcating a Cardbordivider that seperates the fuelpump from the heat exchanger the Cardbaord used was the 1968-1973 sperator Cardbaord for the 911 Fusebox - Adding the 1972 on Plastic flaps on the forward bulkheadwall - Relocating the Fuel Filter to the 1972 on Location - Tilt the Heat valve, cut the Hat away put a hose on the Valve. On 914/4 run hose backwards and clamp it on the engine carrier. On 914/6 run Hose forward to bulkhead then downwars, clamp it to the engine carrier - Remove heat valve and weld a 90" Pipe on the Valve to run the heat downwards and reinstall. The problem from that "fix" was to much wight on the valve vibratet the valvebody from the exchanger so on 914/6 you either made a weldspot or use a rivet to secure the valve on the heatexchanger. On 914/4 the engine carrier crossbar made possible to add a pressed Foam strip between carrier and Heater valve avoiding to fall off. - only on FI Cars, add a fuel cooler to the fuel returnline, this part was aviable at Mercedes Benz or was "selfmade". Grüsse

Hello I deciper the VIN 11-9-1-1-1217 as follows: Model; 911, Year; 1969, Engine; T ( 901/03 or 901/13 if Sportomatic), Body; Targa Body Porsche/Reuter, Count; 1207 but i might be wrong.... As far I remember the 69 Bodystyles are; 0 for Reuter Coupe, 1 for Reuter Targa, 2 for Karmann Coupe and 3 for Karmann Targa The engine# 6-3-2-2321 doesn´t fit Year 1969, if 911T then the engine # would start with 6-1-9, if a 911E then it would start with 6-2-9 and if S then it would start with 6-3-9. As you see you will find the engine code is 6 for the base engine, 1-2-3 for the version T-E-S wih refers direct into the numbers from the chassis digit 4 and the 9 is for the year followed by the 4 digit counting number. Btw in 1969 the 4 is for the 914/6 T engine. So 6-3-2-2321 sould be said 2,4S Block and the 5R case fits the 72 Year as Porsche made the changeover in late 72 to 7R case with the additional reinforcments and the extra screw behind the flywheel. Most 7R blocks in MY73 where used on the 2,7 engines but soon Porsche replaced the 5R case on the 2,4S as well, leaving the remaining 5R cases for E and T engines. If you look close you will find on early 72 engines one Case half to be a 4R and the other to be a 5R However the 2,4S engines are "rare" as in 71/72 we had a worldwide recession (go figure every decade has a recession) wich didn´t help the sale of the expensive S version but boostet sales from the 911T and in 1973 the Carrera RS made the S "obselete" wich droped the 2,4S sales further. MFI engines made more Power for less fuel consumption thats why Porsche changed the 911S in late 1967 to MFI gaining 10 HP over the Weber Setup and lowering the fuel consumption around 20% on the race tracks. Wich was a huge advantage on Endurance Races. Famous Swiss Racer/Engineneer Michael May proved that with a 550 Race Car wich impressed Ferry Porsche to invest in Port Injection and quit the promissing but expensive direct injection prototypes. However Porsche/Bosch needed another 10 Years to push the MFI into a drivable 85 DIN HP/L Streetengine while Daimler Benz was satisfied to push 65 DIN HP/L from ther MFI cars. OTOH the Alfa Montreal with the Spica Injection pushed nearly 90 DIN HP from each Liter displacement In the same Time US Muscle Cars engines where proud to find one SAE HP per CI in there 104 Octane Race engines wich equals some 50 DIN HP/L wich is nice but ROW Race engines on 104 Octane pushed over 110 DIN HP/L with Carbs and up to 120 DIN HP/L with Race MFI (Slidervalve & high point injection). Just numbers to give an idear why Porsche couldn´t keep the simple Carb Setup as the race competition mandatet MFI to win races. And the 911 was designed to be competitive at least the S versions... It also helped on passing the new Smog regulations except the California Smog Law wich killed the 911S versions in the US but some Porsche costumers would pick a 911S in US Spec at the factory and ship it to the US on there own so there are some 68 911S in the US but outside California EPA Law. IMSMR in 1969 the 911S with MFI passed the EPA withhout the additional air pump from the 68 L Versions. The MFI has some weak points the first ist that the heat up regulation didn´t work with stop&go traffic wich tends to flood the engine with fuel and beside fouling the plugs and pushing the MPG into V8 Theritory it contaminatet the engine oil and fuel does not lube as good as oil. So in the US many S owners who never had a cahnce to warm up the engine within 20-30 miles spun a Rod Bearing after pushing the Engine to the limit with to much fuel in the oil. However most Porsche S Drivers where sensible and watched the Cauges as the constealltion; Full Oil level & under 80°C Celsius and low Oilpressure relatet to the Rev level showed that someting was fishy with the Oil. Most tehn pushed the car gently to heat the engine beyound 100°C oiltemperture wich helped deconatminating the fuel from the oil as the fuelvapor would be sucked out from the System into the Combustion. In the mid 70´s the new Oil generation also added to survive fuel contamination. The other Problem of the MFI ist that rising the engines performance would need to stick to known MFI Setups or develope a suiting Mastercam for the MFI Govenour. Wich would blow the budgets from most Tuners in the 70´s even Porsche made Inhouse race engines by skiping the Bosch MFI and converting to the easier to tune Kugelfischer MFI oder going back to Weber Race carbs form the Twin Plug Race engines. However the 2,2 S engines where very critical to Fuel delivery problems when Porsche changed to the 2,4S setup they lowered the compression to average fuel quality and the 2,4S is not to critical with the fuel delivery and the 2,4 also works with average spark plugs. Beside the Case Numbers the S versions have following upgrades over the E/T Versions: S Spec Cams S Spec Cam rocker arms with straight reinforcement ripp S Spec heads with larger valves and perfect CC'ed Chambers and also perfect even flowing intake ports S Spec Valve springs S Spec Piston&Cylinders S Spec Crank with counterwights (wich where also used in E) S Spec Alloy Pressure Plate (yet only works with 911 or 915 Trany) S Spec Distributor S Spec MFI Manifolds & Throttlebodys S Spec MFI Pump S Spec external Oil cooler setup ( wich also came with some E Specs) So the value from a S engine is based on what comes with the original S Spec parts and as Porsche engines are built like LEGO you can mix an S case with a T base engine and it will work on the other end you can use a T engine Case to build up a S-Spec engine. So the Value from a 911B Car today is mostly based on condition and matching #. Most early 911 went from Drivers to Collectors item beside some pre 67 SWB fitting the FIA K Race Spec who see regular track time somtimes pushed hard to keep up with the Lotuses from the other Class. A 69 T Targa with an "wrong" S engine will not be a good collectors choice but will be a fun driver. Other things to look at is if the High performance items are Porsche or from a period Tuner yet some 911T came from the factory with the S Option Handling Pack adding the S Brakes with ventet discs in the rear and most important the S Alloy front calipers, also the S package added the S stabilizer and Koni or Bilstein/De Carbon shocks some come with Boge Niveaumatic up front and in 69 the S Handling Package added 5,5x15" Mahle or 5,5x15" Fuchs with 165/15 or 5,5x14" Fuchs with 185/70/14. The 6" Fuchs with Tubeless Tires where aditonal upgrade for extra bucks. Some Porsche Buyer didn´t trust the new tubeless tire technology so even some 69S came with the traditional 5,5 Fuchs or the even lighter Mahle Gasburners. There was also the S Appieriance/Comfort Group wich added the S Body Trim, E/S Instrumentation, S Interour with wool carpet and Leather Steering wheel rim, Dual Trunk illumination, Engine bay Illumination, Automatic Seat belts in front and mostly factory Recaro with rail mountet seat belt anchors and reinforced outer seat rail carrier and also added 5,5" alloys by choice. I would suggest to look trough the car and make pictures to identify the parts and also to run a factory cardex yet Porsche rised the price over years and closed the Loopehole to ask Porsche Classic for delivery specs. The Factory Cardex will not add much value to the actual situation but will give you an overview from the delivery status including built date, delivery date and saleing dealer. However for the factory cardex you need to pick up the "hidden" Body number behind the right hand kneepad under the Ventilationcontrol/Radio cutout. Grüsse from FRG

Hello check the factory code sticker for the Radio M Code, if Köln, Bremen oder Berlin the illumination bulb is a DIY item. Otherwise most Bosch/Blaupunkt Services can help on that. Only the PCI System diidn´t get a update since 2001 so Program Code Identification and dural Tuner switching from Berlin and Bremen fails. Grüsse

Hello yes that could be the socket for the headligt washer units on the 88 the washerpump sits underneath the washer bootle tank and the pump will make 8bar pressure also since 1985,5 the 911 had the intensive wind screen noozles as option wich sprayed cleaning solvent with 6 bar onto the windscreen (to remove bugs and heavy dirt). Check the option code sticker and download the siting 911 PET from Porsche.com to get an overview. Now brown is the colorcode for Earth, Red/White ist the Colorcode for Power behind the ignition switch, could be the wireloom for the seperate alarmhorn could be something eles relatet to the AirCondition ( There must be one relay for that in the box ) Grüsse

Hello, the engine carrier and teh transmission carrier are boltet "up" by M12 x 1,5 fine corase bolts. The ones on the tranynose can get "bustet" by unsensetive turkey mechanics using a power tool. There is a one time repair possible with helicoil inserts but they mus be extralong ( 25mm upwards ) and the best way ist to bolt up long studs avoiding the cahnce to stripe that again. Grüsse

Hello pre 87 synchromesh are Porsche Style syncros wo where inventet in the late 40´s for race transmissions. (Used by Ferrari, Alfa, Daimler) The synchromesh is fast but not able to handle high masses. When new the late 915 trany had a definitive gear shift feeling and a slight slopines in the shift lever. The shift force required was middle to high yet Porsche was a Sportscar and operating them should add muscle. When those cars age the shiftinge linkage gets worn out and adds indefinate feel and slopinnes and also the synchromesh "wears" down especialy the first and secound gear wich have to handle the most mass load and are used most often. The thing is when the dog theet are grindung down the gear change needs hard force to engage the gear and hard force to disengage the gear. This is what i guess is what you descripe as "clunks". A other reason for the clunks and hard shifting can be a missadjustet clutch and some cheap rebuild clutchs wheren´t machined to spec and would never work as the factory designed them. The design has to short travelway on the pressure platte so even if the clutch is adjustet to the max the unit will never freewheel... So the thing is either the trany is worn and needs rebuild or the clutch is one from those not performing units and at least maybe just some adjustment in the clutch cable with new bearings and adjustet Omega Helper Spring might fix it good enough. Now wear on the 915 transmission syncromesh is relatet to how the driver operates the trany. The Porsche syncromesh need a short and definite "throw" with gentle hand ( 2 finger operation) if you are to slow and soft or massive to hard the synchros will give up sooner. A other issue is how the car was used in city driving most gearchange is done from 1-2-3 while highway driving ist mostly in the 2-3-4-5 section. Spiritet race events tend to need 2-3-4 exept Drag Racing an slalom on parking lots who tend to load 1-2-3. the thing is in germany you can find old 911 who only had seen highway use and those cars have a much better trany feel then the low milage city hopper garage queens. SO Point is Milage doesnt´say anything about a car and many Porsche odometers got a "repair" to fix the numbers.. much better is doing a testdrive with the owner let him sit into the driver seat and see how he starts the cold car and if he don´t show off the perfomance on the next corner with a stone cold engine, also feel/see how he handles the clutch/gear and how smooth he is while normal driving yet how fast he changes the gear under hard acceleration. As Race orientatet trany the 915 can be upshiftet within 0,1 secounds or even faster and without lifting to much from the throttle (shift under partial load) the synchromesh will be happy with it as both gears have the same speed. The issue with the Porsche is the downshift with the other gear having different speed an hanging a heavy car behind that wheel (Mass). So the perfect driver blips the throttle on downshifts (or double cluthes) and if he drives soft he just waits a secound to reenage the clutch. A good driver will upshift and downshift so smoth you wouldn´t feel it or nick your head. Now as an mechanic i can testdrive an car an compare it to many other cars i drove and when the clutch is worn down it is mostly also time to look into the trany, but if the clutch fails or was oiled up the clutch service time isn´t trany servicelife cycle. While the trany is out for a new clutch a additional 30-45 minutes and some gasgets are enough to look inside the trany and check it or just renew the syncros from gear1-2 wich are mostly worn enough to do it. (Also renewing the guidingtube and the tranyseal on the mainshaft and shift rod are things done now when the trany is out, preventive maintenance). The seals on the axle studs can be replaced in the car. Well an other advise on the actuall shoping is contact the company who serviced the car the last times and ask them how much they would need to "fix" the shifting issue but don´t stomp direct to the point first try to find out if the company thinks the trany is good as is or had the owner allready told that something will need additional dollars in the next time. I´m Porsche Mechanic and im Piggy on perfection an there is always enough to do keeping a 911 perfect but on the other side you have to tolerate that those cars wear down and some do it rapidly as the owners don´t care and others are pampered by the drivers (Not saying they drive slow they just "feel" with the car and adjust the operation to Porsche perfection). And there is always a point where the wear gets to the point of high expense as things wear beyond simple repair. So catching the right time to rebuild is important but many costumers think thats the "usuall" way from Car mechanics to engage additional money and thats where older mechanics tend to just shut the mouth and let them drive untill they come in for themself or the car breaks down. Those are te best "deals" for a mechanic you dont have to discuss about the issue, its fact and also rebuild costs are at the max and if the owner gives up you can shop a good car for a steal..... A other interrim solution would be to adress the issue with the owner by a fresh gearchange and have done an oil analysis to the old oil. Reoiling with newer 75-90 from Mobile/Castrol/Redline/Motul,, can improve shifting and the oilanalysis will always show that the trany isn´t new however if brass shows up its time to have a a partial rebuild (forks wear down) and the particles will wander trough the Roller Bearings and wear those down bound usage wich will add another 500euro to the parts list.. Now on pricing in the US just google some from the reputatet Porsche Shops and mail them. Most shops tend to make full rebuilds not wasting time on parts to find out if they are worn, partial worn or worn out others doing racing can make partial overhauls leaving the worn parts in wich will work for another lifecycle to the next rebuild. A good trany shop had been the AASE in Anaheim (Orange/LA) but they are out of buisness since years wich is also my status on US Trips In Germany a rebuild from the syncro stones and brake bands without renewing any gears or any other expensive parts will run around 300-500€ but ther eis one problem the thoots from the syncros are pressed on the gears, there is a way to renew them but Porsche changed in 1981 to a special asymetrich thootform on 1st and secound wich are not aviable at the aftermarked and reneweing them needes someone with "inside" contacts to the Porsche Trany Division or to the Sport division. Using the prevoius symetric thoot set will not work as intentet adds additional force on upshifting and waers down faster. (OK Sorry for getting to deep into details....) as you seem to dwell in Guatemala you either look for a local shop and have the US prcing as comparsion level or you ship the trany to a US shop. A local shop has benefits even if they are asking overprice in comparsion to the more competetive US marked. Grüsse

Hello check shift rod coupler in the rear middel tunnel section under the 4 bolt Coverplate. The coupler has a "middlesoft" PTFE (teflon) bushing wich will keep the shift rod to gear Selector longtitutional lose while sidweays action ( twisting) should be without any play. the coupler sits on the shift rod from the trany and that securing bolt has a 5mm hex, those bolts sometimes come lose and can be replaced by newer versions wich have a nylon lock insert to secure it. However vibration on the rod coupler ist an bad sign and i would check if the forward trany mount rubber carrier are worn down or are so tierd that the trany sits to "deep". Now the forward section from the coupler sits with a clamp on the shift rod from the gear lever and is also used to adjust the gear shifting. If those clamp come loose we have vibration from the front leverage and the linkage should be checked/rebushed. But the first step would be to readujust the shift rod on the cpopler thigten the clamp and mark the position with a color dot. the drive on and the next time something comes lose you can check the adjustment and retighten (just needs the 13mm Spanner from the tool box). if that comes after a short time especially under hard use ( bad roads, race events) then i would start to rebuild the shift rod/linkage and renew the couple or the bushing in the coupler. Sometimes you can find afternarked coupler bushings wich have no longtitutionalplay or are from hard materiel. Those are for race cars and trade better shift action into more sound in the cabin and also into ratteling noises in the shifter. An other idear would be to contact wevo if they have a improved coupler and advise on shift linkage improvments. Grüsse

Hello a Type 47 is not a 914/6. Type 47 where made for Volkswagen while Type 914 where made for Porsche. The Factory Type shield in the trunk will tell the manufactorer. The 914 was a Porsche design but Porsche was short on money so they decided to do a Joint Venture with Volkswagen. All 914 Bodys where made at Karmann at Osnabrück and all Type 47 where assembled at Osnabrück replacing the VW Type 34 Contract so the where manufactured from Volkswagen. Porsche in Zuffenhausen got the Bodys and assembled the Cars in Stuttgart and so they where manufactured by Porsche. Grüsse

Hello well doing it is much simpler then writing it down ;) Removing the ignition unit: 1.) Remove Knee bolster 2.) Remove Electric Connector on the Backside from the switch, US versions have a small separate contact for the key buzzer 3.) unscrew 8mm Allen insert bolt on the steering coloum 4.) unscrew Key Rosette part shown #33 just turn left if it wound budge there are holes in the circum to insert a 3mm thick drill to give additonal leverage 5.) remove shear bolt heads by chisseleing them away or drilling the head off, then remove the 2 Rivets and the reinforcment shield, on pre 77 cars you have to remove the faceplate to have acces to the 2 rivets. On pre 70 Keysystems the units is slim enough to be pushed trough the reinforcment plate hole. 6.) Insert key and unlock the steering then hold/turn the steering wheel oppesite and remove key again 7.) push the unit slight inwards then reach from the backside and when the look is behind the faceplate pull it out from the steering coulum (It was clamped there by the allen bolt with the 13mm nut). If key is missung or Lock defunct use brute force. 8.) Rebuilding Lock needs major knowledge and tools from a Locksmith, the manufactorer from the unit did not thought about rebuilding and sealed the units by "hotshrinkig" the accesplate, however it is douable and much simpler as on Ferarri Locks ;) 9.) If Lock is replaced write down the new key number and then either send your other locks to a locksmith to have them convertet to the new key or if you have time and acces to old parts you can do it yourself. 86_911_ignition_switch.pdf Porsche DOM/HUF Locks do work very well over years as long the key hasn´t to much preload bey a fat key fob and whenever the key is "sticking" someone has to relube the Lock with DOM Lock Fluid wich is a spezial Graphite Solution made for DOM iX Lock systems. Öoils do not work for a long period and wash the grease in the Steering lock tumbler away however WD40 or any Lock oil are better then "grinding down" the unit. When DOM/HUF Developd the System for Porsche/Mercedes the typical estimatet Lifecycle from the cars where 10-15 Years and Both Companys feelt they neede something that will be state of the art. However the cars are now very long in service and based on the expirience from Mercedes they wil withstand some 500000kms on a daily used car wicht gets starte twice daily. But on commercial used Benz (Taxis) some 300000km seemed to be the regurlar service time and then some relubing could bring an other 300000km untill the locks went out. First signs fpr the lock needing major service is wehn the starter lock out isn´t working anymore and/or the key tendes to stick and needs fumbeling to be turned over. Before inserting the elecrtik unit look inside the Lock if the elektric switch tumbler is a spade (Early up to the 80´s) or a cross. The early switch will not work with the late Lock but vice versa. Grüsse

Hello Main Harnesses are similar but fuseboxlayout and some appendix looms are different. Grüsse

Hallo on a pre 85 there are 3 studs with nuts wich can be reached from the backside. On Targs there is a reinforcment triangle sheet so to acces that bolt you must remove the lightswitch. Lightswicht has some live power cables only protectet by a rubber boot wich can/will desintegrate after the years so remove ground from battery before shorting anything out. Grüsse

Hello Bently seems to descripe the Dash from the 1985,5 on 3,2L

Hello the ignition switch has two parts on front is the mechanical device and on the rear ist the electric switch. Both parts can make problems but changing the electric switch is quite easy if you have small fingers and like to work overhead without direct sight. The electric units are repairable and can be bought new for a fair price. Renweing the electrik unit need a small screwdeiver or a 1/4 bitdrive an Bit. Up to 1985 the switch was attached with 3 Normal Blade screws on the rear and since 1985 they used easier to handle Philips head (Kreuzschlitz). If the electric unit is "loose" then mostly fixing that solves some electric problems. Sometimes you have to take it apart and clean burned contacts. The ignition key lock unit is very expensive and hard to repair bur mostly some TLC/Mainenance can bring back resonable further service life. Reneweing the unit needs some expirence and can be done with the right tools under 30 Minutes if the key still works and there is no underdash AC on the car.Without a working key or without key it will take a bit longer. Grüsse

Hello first you should contact the engine builder and ask them for there advice. The 3,8L Conversion was done by the factory and some tuners as well. However while they mostly used the same hardware they can have different CC Ratios in the Head and therefore different Compression Ratios. While the Knock detection will prevent missfire it will not detect a hot spotet Spark plug melting down into the engine. Bosch is a good brand but i prefer the more trouble free NGK (BCPR7ET/BCP7ET), Champion (RC7YCC) or Beru (14FR5DTU) Brand. If there is any trouble with the ignition you can try to use Bosch F5DTC without surpression Resistor. The F5DTC works better under lean conditions and seems not to foul as fast under oil in the combustion. Both are issues with old & worn engines but mostly the NGK oder Beru work with resistor as well and they are much cheaper to have. While Porsche intruduced the 993 they swaped to FR6DP Plugs for extended Service life but soon replaced them with FR6LDC from the 993TT. For extended Service live the NGK BCP7ET worked very well on stock engines and will fire much leaner mixtures then the stock spark plug. However Porsche Factory Service don´t recommend the 3 or 4 Tip Plugs as as the spark will not ignite on the correct spot wich translates into retarded ignition and less peak power. Porsches don´t likes the Brisk as they seem to have much shorter service life the the maintenance scedule and they tend to "stick" in the head risking expensive treat repair however mostly you also find someone greased the plugs at the last installation. Grüsse