fedmax

I fixed the problem today, it was very much straight forward:

1) Remove the glove compartment dampers by carefully pulling them toward you, they are attached by a snap mechanism

2) Remove the 2 screws each side holding the glove compartment to the frame joint

3) the switch is top right, in my case the metal bracket just fell off

4) I removed the switch carefully with a flat screw driver, inserted the metal piece and fixed it with some epoxy that it will always stay there

5) works like a charm

Ok found a topic with the same problem: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39768-glove-compartment-light/

Does anyone have instructions to do so that are a bit more specific? Where does the arm go`?

Thanks

Ronny

Does anyone know how the glove box sensor open/close works? I've worked at the glove box and a little metal bracket came off - I just don't know from where. Since then the car honks when I lock the doors.

Thanks

Ronny

"Follow the instructions to alter the wiring to stop the "check spoiler" light from lighting on the dash"

What is involved to do that? At the moment my rear wing hydraulics do not work and I'd like to get rid of the warning...

Thanks

Ronny

I have he same issue, driver side ram leaks. We added the 5ml of oil. It went ok for 2 days and then did not retract anymore. Apparently Porsche upgraded/redesigned the system since it was first built and recommends to replace the whole system. Another Porsche mechanic confirmed that statement. The system is easy to exchange (DIY job), the issue is that the set costs 1200 EUR :(.

You need to wait much longer before measuring the drain, and you need to do it with the car locked. Use a screwdriver to latch the front lid, so you can leave it open while you do the test.

load drain table.jpg

Thanks Richard - very good list. But still my question: with all these fuses pulled (relating to all these consumtions listed in the document) what is still draining the battery i.e. which parts are not controlled in that fuse box?

Are you testing it with the central locking system activated?

It was deactivated I tested the car with open doors but wouldn't that be offline anyway after I pulled the fuse C3 for central locking?

Thanks JFP, I know the car quite well because I took a lot of it apart the last two years. All aftermarket stuff I did myself and that is wired to the fuse box, so...I have the work ahead that I don't want at the moment :-( So bring it to the shop most likely.

I have an interesting battery drain. I noticed that when I leave my car stationary for two weeks, it's enough to drain the battery. I Installed a CTEK Battery health indicator and noticed that it's rarely ever green.

For those of you interested: the Ctek Health Indicator uses 2 mA.So today I started my investigation with a multimeter. I pulled all lamps (trunk, glove box, left and right door and made sure no other lights are on and waited till the speedo was off.

B1 pulled 167mA (Cluster Tiptronic, Diganosis and Power Top)

C3 pulled 123mA (CU Alarm System, Central Locking, Power Window)

D1 pulled 103mA (Power Window)

D8 pulled ended at 100mA (Radiator Fan 2)

So even after all fuses pulled I have still double the standby current left that it should have. At this point I have no idea where to look for as I have no accessory installed that are not going through the fuse box. The different accessories I have all end up in one fuse that I take power from (seat fuse).

Do you guys have any idea what I could try next?

Thanks

Ronny

sorry to hear that you have that issue. Mine went away after some time - as if the rollar had to run-in...no more sound.

Some of you may remember this from last year, a quick statistical 996TT review. My smart phone app hasn't changed since, nor my love for statistics.

2012 was a very good year, service and maintenance cost were about half of that in 2011, mainly due to (almost) no repairs in 2012. Repairs in 2012 included the following:

- Wishbone replaced rear right

- Light switch replaced

- Exhaust oxygen sensor replaced

- Clutch pressure accumulator replaced

What needs to be done but I just didn't get around to it this year:

- Oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced. Sometimes it drops to 0 and a warning comes on that it is broken. I found in a German board PFF that when you replace it you may also replace the seal below the oil filter housing because that should be the reason for the same oil leak I also have on my turbo. Here is the link to the forum and the picture:

- Second is the bigger problem, my rear spoiler stopped retracting and I discovered a very small leak. As a workaround I pulled the responsible fuse so that it does not come up.

Year 2012 Statistics, all the numbers:

- 22'236 km covered (13817 mls)

- 2780 liters of fuel burned (735.5 gallons)

- Avg of 12.4 liters per 100km (18.97 mpg US)

- Peak at 26.43 liters per 100km (8.9 mpg US)

- Low mark at 10.0 liters per 100km (23.52 mpg US)

- In this time I added 3 liters of oil

Top tip key learning of 2012:

Never ever use Falken 452 on a 996 Turbo if you go beyond 200km/h. I found in some strange car board that it works really well on the 996TT, well it doesn't. It's a good tyre for cruising and country roads but no high speeds on the autobahn nor on the race track. At 250km/h it gets really uncomfortable, at 270km/h I had to stop. On Pirelli tyres in 2011 I could have gone beyond 310km/h if that bend did not come up (GPS, not speedo). And that in a completely stable car that gives you a lot of confidence. Small difference in tyres...

Unfortunately not so nice pictures in 2012, I had other stuff on my mind:

150'000km reached in March 2012 (Pierre would say it's almost run in)

Category every day car - DIY shopping

Still gives me a smile on my face with its beautiful shape.

Best fuel station ever I found in Lucerne: Yes you stand on a lane while you fill up...crazy.

Dirty and ready for skiing!

Found this little guy in the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart. No scratch so probably not used.

Happy new year to everyone and I wish you a good start into 2013!

Ronny

Welcome to the club and year end greetings to Canada!

Ronny

Can there be any faults with mounting that tensioning roller? Maybe tighten it too much? When the engine is warm the stupid thing makes the same noise again :-( Or material defect?

Recently my rear bumper got painted. One part that was heavily impacted from stone chips was the rear wheel arch as on the pictures below. As a have wheel spacers for the look there are many stones flying off at the painted piece.

As I couldn't find a stone chip foil for that area I did one myself. The result you can see below and even print and use as a model (PNG paper format is European A4).

Finally did the job last weekend, here is the DIY with pictures: http://porsche996turboblog.blogspot.ch/2012/07/issue-screech-noise-in-engine.html

Accumulator exchanged, everyting back to normal!

With only 400'000km, mine is barely broken in... :cheers:

Nice :)

I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.

Thanks for the insight and good to know that it works. One thing that stopped me from trying was the new deflection roller has a torx rather than a normal wench screw. Was that the same in your case? Did you just use the old screw? Here are the pictures:

Thanks Loren, I hope its just the accumulator, I had the operating cylinder replaced about 20k mls ago.

Hi all

It's been some time since I had a strange issue, but one came up this week: After driving off I noticed something like vibrations when I pressed the clutch pedal. The clutch worked fine, opened and closed but a little later same drive the feel or let's say the amound of power necessary to press the clutch varied each time I pressed it. Sometimes with vibrations, sometimes without. I drove the car a few times since, the clutch works but the feeling is a different one almost every time. It feels normal from time to time for a few pressures but then again goes harder and I'm 90% sure the point where the clutch engages also varies a bit.

Remote diagnoisis anyone? Hope it's not a part failure...had enough of those ;-)

Thanks

Ronny

I did it last weekend, here are the instructions including pictures:

http://porsche996turboblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/solisto-iphone-mp3-interior.html

Solisto iPhone MP3 Interior Installation

Hi there

I'd like to remove my PCM 1 tomorrow to directly attach the Solisto Unit to the CD Changer port. At the moment I still have it in the trunk compartment including an iPod.

Is there anything special I need to look after? I searched the site and all DIY seem to be a bit different to my car:

1. I have cup holders

2. the panel that needs to be pulled forward is one piece from the cigarette lighter up above the airvents

Thanks!

Ronny

thanks amcleod1 for the post and videos! Great work. My noise stopped since it's above 0 degrees now and I don't bother till it stops again next winter :)