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Posts posted by fedmax

  1. I fixed the problem today, it was very much straight forward:

    1) Remove the glove compartment dampers by carefully pulling them toward you, they are attached by a snap mechanism

    2) Remove the 2 screws each side holding the glove compartment to the frame joint

    3) the switch is top right, in my case the metal bracket just fell off

    4) I removed the switch carefully with a flat screw driver, inserted the metal piece and fixed it with some epoxy that it will always stay there

    5) works like a charm


  2. I have he same issue, driver side ram leaks. We added the 5ml of oil. It went ok for 2 days and then did not retract anymore. Apparently Porsche upgraded/redesigned the system since it was first built and recommends to replace the whole system. Another Porsche mechanic confirmed that statement. The system is easy to exchange (DIY job), the issue is that the set costs 1200 EUR :(.

  3. You need to wait much longer before measuring the drain, and you need to do it with the car locked. Use a screwdriver to latch the front lid, so you can leave it open while you do the test.

    attachicon.gifload drain table.jpg

    Thanks Richard - very good list. But still my question: with all these fuses pulled (relating to all these consumtions listed in the document) what is still draining the battery i.e. which parts are not controlled in that fuse box?

  4. I have an interesting battery drain. I noticed that when I leave my car stationary for two weeks, it's enough to drain the battery. I Installed a CTEK Battery health indicator and noticed that it's rarely ever green.


    For those of you interested: the Ctek Health Indicator uses 2 mA.So today I started my investigation with a multimeter. I pulled all lamps (trunk, glove box, left and right door and made sure no other lights are on and waited till the speedo was off.


    B1 pulled 167mA (Cluster Tiptronic, Diganosis and Power Top)

    C3 pulled 123mA (CU Alarm System, Central Locking, Power Window)

    D1 pulled 103mA (Power Window)

    D8 pulled ended at 100mA (Radiator Fan 2)


    So even after all fuses pulled I have still double the standby current left that it should have. At this point I have no idea where to look for as I have no accessory installed that are not going through the fuse box. The different accessories I have all end up in one fuse that I take power from (seat fuse).

    Do you guys have any idea what I could try next?



  5. Some of you may remember this from last year, a quick statistical 996TT review. My smart phone app hasn't changed since, nor my love for statistics.

    2012 was a very good year, service and maintenance cost were about half of that in 2011, mainly due to (almost) no repairs in 2012. Repairs in 2012 included the following:

    - Wishbone replaced rear right

    - Light switch replaced

    - Exhaust oxygen sensor replaced

    - Clutch pressure accumulator replaced

    What needs to be done but I just didn't get around to it this year:

    - Oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced. Sometimes it drops to 0 and a warning comes on that it is broken. I found in a German board PFF that when you replace it you may also replace the seal below the oil filter housing because that should be the reason for the same oil leak I also have on my turbo. Here is the link to the forum and the picture:


    - Second is the bigger problem, my rear spoiler stopped retracting and I discovered a very small leak. As a workaround I pulled the responsible fuse so that it does not come up.


    Year 2012 Statistics, all the numbers:

    - 22'236 km covered (13817 mls)

    - 2780 liters of fuel burned (735.5 gallons)

    - Avg of 12.4 liters per 100km (18.97 mpg US)

    - Peak at 26.43 liters per 100km (8.9 mpg US)

    - Low mark at 10.0 liters per 100km (23.52 mpg US)

    - In this time I added 3 liters of oil

    Top tip key learning of 2012:

    Never ever use Falken 452 on a 996 Turbo if you go beyond 200km/h. I found in some strange car board that it works really well on the 996TT, well it doesn't. It's a good tyre for cruising and country roads but no high speeds on the autobahn nor on the race track. At 250km/h it gets really uncomfortable, at 270km/h I had to stop. On Pirelli tyres in 2011 I could have gone beyond 310km/h if that bend did not come up (GPS, not speedo). And that in a completely stable car that gives you a lot of confidence. Small difference in tyres...

    Unfortunately not so nice pictures in 2012, I had other stuff on my mind:


    150'000km reached in March 2012 (Pierre would say it's almost run in)


    Category every day car - DIY shopping


    Still gives me a smile on my face with its beautiful shape.


    Best fuel station ever I found in Lucerne: Yes you stand on a lane while you fill up...crazy.


    Dirty and ready for skiing!


    Found this little guy in the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart. No scratch so probably not used.

    Happy new year to everyone and I wish you a good start into 2013!


    • Upvote 2
  6. Purge Valve Replacement - 03-06 Cayenne TT

    I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work).


  7. Recently my rear bumper got painted. One part that was heavily impacted from stone chips was the rear wheel arch as on the pictures below. As a have wheel spacers for the look there are many stones flying off at the painted piece.

    As I couldn't find a stone chip foil for that area I did one myself. The result you can see below and even print and use as a model (PNG paper format is European A4).




  8. I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.

    Thanks for the insight and good to know that it works. One thing that stopped me from trying was the new deflection roller has a torx rather than a normal wench screw. Was that the same in your case? Did you just use the old screw? Here are the pictures:



  9. Hi all

    It's been some time since I had a strange issue, but one came up this week: After driving off I noticed something like vibrations when I pressed the clutch pedal. The clutch worked fine, opened and closed but a little later same drive the feel or let's say the amound of power necessary to press the clutch varied each time I pressed it. Sometimes with vibrations, sometimes without. I drove the car a few times since, the clutch works but the feeling is a different one almost every time. It feels normal from time to time for a few pressures but then again goes harder and I'm 90% sure the point where the clutch engages also varies a bit.

    Remote diagnoisis anyone? Hope it's not a part failure...had enough of those ;-)



  10. I did it last weekend, here are the instructions including pictures:


    Solisto iPhone MP3 Interior Installation

    Two years back or so I did a very easy installation of the Solisto device in exchange for the CD Changer in the trunk. Plug and Play. The downside is you cannot attach another device while driving or reboot it when it crashes.

    The TomTom Navigation in conjunction with Spotify (or normal MP3 on the device) works really great. Music is turned down automatically when the TomTom lady has to say something, even on/off of the Radio pauses Spotify. Long story short I had to install the Solisto directly at the PCM unit.

    1. The toughest part is to get the cover around the PCM off. It is attached with a few hooks. Without tools I read in many forums to push down and pull forward. Depending on the car this might work. I think in my case the cover has never been off so with simple push and pulling it didn't work. To get more grip onto the top part I applied painter tape (to not damage the leather) and on top of it double sided tape. With all fingers on the tape I could pull the cover back, get a grip underneath and carefully pull the cover away.

    Tip: apply painter tape to the whole cover so that you don't get any scratches in follow-on work.


    These are the hinges you need special tools for to pull them down and get the over out.



    2. The rest is relatively easy. On each side of the PCM unit there is a spring. Push them inside and pull the PCM control unit out. There are no screws or anything, just the two springs in the middle of each side. Cover the car's sensitive areas with a blanket or so to not make any scratches.

    3. The plug to look for is 'C' on the diagram. It is made up by three parts: yellow, green and blue. Remove it and take apart the plug. Remove the yellow part and apply it to the Solistor connector. Put it back in and re-attach the PCM unit. There is much space to run the solistor cable down behind the PCM CD Nav unit/ AC Unit. I decided to attach the Solisto with Velcro to the carpet between the cardan shaft and the air vents. There is also space behind the AC control unit. The iPhone cable went up to the telephone console. Done!


    Reference: Porsche PCM1 Pinout

    Borrowed from: Link Forum http://cuoresportivo.no





    All information is provided in good faith. Any modification you carry out, you do so at your own risk. No liability is implied or will be accepted. Please ensure that you are qualified to carry out any work detailed on this page and that you take all necessary precautions.


    Plug A

    1 - Speed signal

    2 - Free

    3 - Free

    4 - Terminal 30

    5 - Terminal 30 for windscreen antenna

    6 - Free

    7 - Free

    8 - Terminal 31


    Plug B

    1 - Loudspeaker, rear right +

    2 - Loudspeaker, rear right -

    3 - Loudspeaker, front right +

    4 - Loudspeaker, front right -

    5 - Loudspeaker, front left +

    6 - Loudspeaker, front left -

    7 - Loudspeaker, rear left +

    8 - Loudspeaker, rear left -

    Note Plug B is assigned only if no amplifier is installed.


    Plug C

    1 - Lineout, rear left

    2 - Line out, rear right

    3 - AF ground

    4 - Line out, front left

    5 - Line out, front right

    6 - Terminal 30 for amplifier

    7 - Control lead for CD changer

    8 - Terminal 30 for CD changer

    9 - Free

    10 - Data lead

    11 - Clock lead

    12 - Reset lead

    13 - Free

    14 - Free

    15 - Free

    16 - Free

    17 - Free

    18 - CD AF, ground

    19 - CD AF, left

    20 - CD AF. right

    Note Plug C consists of 3 parts.

    Pins 1 to 6: yellow housing.

    Pins 7 to 2: green housing.

    Pins 13 to 20 : blue housing.

    Pins 1 to 6 are the loudspeaker outputs to the amplifier. They are assigned only if an amplifier is installed.

    Pins 7 to 12 are the control leads for the CD changer.

    Pins 18 to 20 are the loudspeaker outputs of the CD changer.

    Pins 7 to 20 are assigned only if a CD changer is installed.


    D-Antenna lead




    Plug I

    1 - Video signal, red

    2 - Video signal, green

    3 - Free

    4 - Free

    5 - Free

    6 - Terminal 31

    7 - Free

    8 - Free

    9 - Free

    10 - Terminal 30 for navigation

    11 - Terminal 58 d

    12 - Free

    13 - Terminal 30

    14 - Video signal, blue

    15 - Video signal synchronisation

    16 - Video signal ground

    17 - Free

    18 - Free

    19 - Terminal31

    20 - To combination plug IIIpin 6

    21 - From combination plug IIIpin 11

    22 - Free

    23 - Fuel consumption signal

    24 - Speed signal

    25 - Free

    26 - Terminal 30


    Plug II

    1 - Diagnosis lead

    2 - Terminal 15

    3 - Terminal 86 s

    4 - Data lead to navigation unit

    5 - Free

    6 - DSP (amplifier) ground

    7 - Handsfree microphone ground

    8 - Handset microphone

    9 - Handset speaker

    10 - Terminal 30, handset

    11 - Free

    12 - Voice output ground

    13 - Voice output

    14 - DSP (amplifier)

    15 - Data lead from the heater / AlC unit

    16 - Free

    17 - Data lead from the navigation unit

    18 - Free

    19 - Free

    20 - Handsfree microphone

    21 - Handset ground

    22 - Handset on-hook contact

    23 - Free

    24 - Free

    25 - Free

    26 - Free

  11. Hi there

    I'd like to remove my PCM 1 tomorrow to directly attach the Solisto Unit to the CD Changer port. At the moment I still have it in the trunk compartment including an iPod.

    Is there anything special I need to look after? I searched the site and all DIY seem to be a bit different to my car:

    1. I have cup holders

    2. the panel that needs to be pulled forward is one piece from the cigarette lighter up above the airvents



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