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Posts posted by fedmax

  1. I have exactly the same issue but I cannot find the TSB you refer to.

    It feels like the number 7 on the picture is normally glued to the roof and now got loose. The result is a very annoying squeak noise. This happended last week first when it got really cold here in Switzerland (1° F or -17° C) where I live. The cold weather that we have for two weeks is not doing the car any good.

    Did anyone of you take down the roof liner? Big job?




  2. I also checked your data against 35 UoA's pulled at random from our data base, coming exclusively from Turbo's over a period of 3 years; while your VI, 40C, and 100C viscosities look like nearly fresh oil, and your TBN values looks equally good, the average of the reports I pulled at random are a mere fraction of those values after an average of less than 4,000 miles. I also see much higher fuel and water intrusion values as well, which I would expect from a Turbo car.

    Interesting...what oil did these cars use? What fuel is used? How have they been used during that time? (race track, sunday drives, commute). What tuning stage do they have?

    My car's oil life:

    - As a day to day driver I rarely use the power the car has to offer.

    - I only use 98 octane or higher fuel.

    - I only fill up with the same Mobil 1 0W40 oil that is used during oil changes

    - I never use the car for short distances, usually it's 30min or longer drive, a lot high ways

    - I never rev the car over 3000rpm before it is warm

  3. Wow, these guys are fast. Here is the (german) test result, the interpretation of the test result and the Bing Translation of it:

    Diagnosis of the current lab results

    Iron has slightly increased. Copper due to wear or non-ferrous metals corrosion increased slightly. These changes are not uncommon, they should however be observed further through trend analysis. You should observe the further change with the next analysis. All other data obtained are within the allowed or expected values.

    Overall Score: Normal

    Details in Attachment.


  4. Trunk Latch Replacement

    Recently I noticed that the trunk does not open as high as it used to, it's difficult to get the hand to the mechanism to release the trunk. Closed Trunk Open Trunk After studying the part that is responsible to push the trunk up (part number 996-511-053-02 Front Trunk Latch, 150 USD) I figured that the spring must have worn out in the past 9 years and ordered a replacement. Installation of the new trunk latch is straightforward: 1) remove the pla


  5. As quite some time passed since my last posting here and in my blog I figured let's write something about 2011:

    Almost three month have passed since my last posting - incredible, nothing special happened in all this time. The car ran smoothly, a regular maintenance was done at 140'000km (86'800mls) in December 2011.

    So the 996 Turbo year 2011 in Numbers:

    - 24'100 km covered (15'000mls)

    - 3'314 liters of fuel burned (875 US Gallons)

    - Avg of 12.9 liters per 100km (18.23 US mpg)

    - Peak at 30.8 liters per 100km on the German Autobahn (7.64 US mpg)

    - Low mark at 10.6 liters per 100km (22.19 US mpg)

    - In this time I added three times 1 liter of oil

    - All on the same winter and summer rubbers, new rubbers will be due this spring and next winter

    Best Pictures of 2011:


    Drift Training @ Boxberg Test Center


    Same Day in the high speed oval


    Common casual 911 gathering at the Nurburgring - It's a people's car here


    I welded a statue out of all the repair leftovers of 2010, from trash to beauty.


    Not an everyday car? Christmas tree shopping and...


    Ski vacation at new years eve with a lot of snow fall


    Picture two days later, it took half an hour to free the poor car from snow.

    So, in terms of reliability and repairs 2011 was a good year and I look forward to get used to it and 2012 of course :-). All the best for you all - happy motoring in 2012!


    Blog Posting: http://porsche996tur...-in-review.html

    • Upvote 2
  6. I'm with you with the oil, no kidding there but I add 1 liter every 3000km so by the time the car hits the 20'000km maintenance interval almost 7 out of the 9 liters of oil the car has are relatively new so I cannot imagine a big issue with a high quality oil. Nevertheless of course it makes sense to change the oil more often...

  7. An out of the box kind of question....

    If you run your 996 TT as a daily driver summer & winter, you do not track the car and rarely use the full power the car offers why should you stick to the 20'000km (15'000mls) maintenance intervals? What harm would it do to extend it by 5000 (3000mls) or 10000km (6000mls)?

    Any thoughts appreciated ;-)

  8. I could not find a direct answer to your question Kevin but based on this posting I guess it has a lot to do with what options the seat has.

    Based on this thread in german PFF it is not plug and play for the 997 sport seats with adaptive side walls. What it says is that positive and negative of the new passenger seat have to be modified and from the driver seat the cabling needs to connect to the passenger seat as it has no ECU there.

    This is for the complicated seats, I guess it's easier if you have a manual seats with just seat heating...

  9. sensational - thanks for posting JP

    Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it and gives new energy for more posting :) It's great that I can give something back to the community because me myself I take all knowledge from forums like this one in addition to the workshop manuals. If you think about the efficiency gains of Internet search for your issues compared to reading books and talking to mechanics in the past...incredible!


  10. fedmax, looked over your blog. Great job.

    Did you sort that clack when lifting the Accelerator with that front drive shaft?

    Thanks! A little, it got reduced by changing the drive shaft, the flex disc was work out. But the clack is related to the sports clutch from Sachs that I fitted, it has no springs. I have a standard clutch ready for mounting and hope it will be gone then.

  11. Porsche recommends exchanging the fuel filter every 80'000km. Mine was last done at the 80'000km service, since then the car has done 55'000km. Some symptoms that I had, non disturbing but still sometimes annoying:

    - engine stuttering after startup

    - engine stuttering at 3100rpm in 6th gear on the highway

    - engine sometime just went out, specially when reversing with warm engine

    After the fuel filter change today and some long test driving all these issues seem to be gone.

    Fuel filter change how-to in addition to the instructions found in the workshop manual (they didn't really help...). Fuel filter 996 110 253 52, purchased at FVD for CHF 42.

    If you do not have the workshop manual, you can find the instructions here in this renntech post.

    The first few steps according to manual are easy:

    1) remove the air filter box


    2) disconnect mass cable, undo the fuel line with counter wrench, make sure there is a big towel underneath, there is a lot of fuel coming out

    3) disconnect the plug connection


    4) now the difficult part: it says 'remove the fuel filter with holder', 'to do this bend the retaining clip upwards as shown where the arrow is'. The arrow points to the top of the fuel filter - where of course no clip can be found. Space is very tight so you cannot do a lot of searching with your hand. I used a borescope to look underneath but couldn't figure a way to work this thing. So I ended up with a wrench with extender, flexible part up front with a screw driver end and completely loosened the restraining strap and pulled the fuel filter out with a mole grips (the fuel line in the back is so strong I couldn't pull it out by hand). I then could see the following picture below the the easy to remove holder (the rectangular front piece). I have no clue how I should have removed it with my big hands....if you have kids, give them a try.


    5) The rest was easy, take the holder out, attach the new filter, put it back into place so that you hear a clipping sound and connect the fuel lines, mass cable and put the rest you have remove back into place.

    6) The picture below shows the fuel I have removed from the old filter...all black and dirty, not good. So if you have symptoms like I had, try replacing the fuel filter earlier than maintenance schedule.


    Visit my blog for high resolution pictures: click here.

  12. Hi there

    With adding the green fluid it was easy to find the leak in my AC system. When the mechanic pumped out the AC fluid there was a certain amount of oil coming with it. He then filled it up with 900g AC fluid and the amount of oil he pumped out including the UV sensitve green fluid.

    Now a few weeks later (the AC worked about a week) I could replace the condenser and dryer. For that the mechanic took out the fluid: 20g AC fluid left, 0 oil. When he filled it up again he added the 20cm3 of oil for the condenser and 900g of AC fluid.

    Was that the correct decision or did some oil vanish with the AC fluid?



  13. Sounds like low refrigerant.

    If you are mechanically inclined (i.e. can do an oil change or brake work), then AutoZone loans out AC vacuum pumps and manifold guages. Very easy to evac, check for leak, and recharge.

    Good luck.


    It was! We now filled it with UV light sensitive fluid and hope we find the leak... Thanks!

    Found the leak, it was the left air condenser, pictures here:


    • Upvote 2
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