Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

fedmax

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by fedmax

  1. Cannot open the video but check your steering pump reservoir level and also take a look at this TSB...

    Ok, did some analyzing today, it doesn't change when I steer or press the clutch. Seems to come from the belt or one of the rolls where the belt is on. I'm changing exhaust tomorrow and will let the mechanic have a look.

  2. My clutch pedal did not feel well after a gearbox rebuild so I figured I'd bleed the clutch fluid and while at it (the car has 80'000 miles) just replace the whole fluid.

    Based on POSES instructions and the DIY tutorial I figured it's an easy job to do before dinner on an evening. As it wasn't and quite painful...I think its good to share my experiences including pictures.

    Basic conditions: I did this alone in my garage with two car jacks, it was my first clutch bleeding.

    What you need:

    - There is about 0.7l (7 quarts) of fluid in the system, I bought 1 Liter (10 quarts) of Pentosin CHF 11 S: http://www.pentosin....c=&pid=668&vid=

    - My Porsche 996 TT needed a 11mm wrench for the bleeder valve

    - a good light source, I had an LED light

    - a catch can/bottle with a hose that fits on the valve, I bought a special brake/clutch catch bottle with a fitting end

    - a pice of wood or similar to push back the clutch pedal

    - a feed hopper to not spill any Pentosin while filling up

    1) Use the car jacks to bring the car up as hight as possible. Search for the the bleeder valve. It is well hidden: Follow the driver side rear wheel to the gear box and look high up. You see two hoses, above one is the valve.

    post-54108-0-17425900-1294868034_thumb.j

    2) Now comes the difficult part if you have large arms and hands: Reach to the valve and take off the valve cap. Attach the wrench with the closed round side to the valve so that the other end of the wrench touches the underside of the car. This makes it easy to open (pull down) and close it (push up) again.

    3) Attach the hose of the catch tank to the bleeder valve

    post-54108-0-37739200-1294869109_thumb.j

    post-54108-0-33119800-1294869145_thumb.j

    post-54108-0-54859400-1294869174_thumb.j

    4) Open the cap of the green compensation reservoir under the black plastic cover right next to the battery in the trunk, make sure it is filled, it may not at any point drain in air instead of fluid, to not spill any Pentosin cover the area with paper and attach a feed hopper, I taped it to the strut brace so it doesn't move

    5) Push the clutch pedal far down, secure it with the piece of wood against the driver seat with enough soft cushion to avoid scratches

    6) Open the bleeder valve (a few cm are enough) you'll see the green fluid coming out

    7) slowly pull and push the clutch pedal 5 iterations

    8) fill up the compensation reservoir with Pentosin

    My mechanic support told me to change the whole fluid as he said you cannot be sure where the air is kept so I repeated steps 7 and 8 till I got 0.8l (8 quarts) of Pentosin in the catch can.

    9) Leave the clutch pedal in regular position

    10) close the valve by pushing the wrench up, make sure it is closed tight but do not add pressure

    11) Remove the bleeding hose and wipe off any remaining Pentosin, put back the valce cap

    12) fill up the Pentosin into the compensation reservoir so it is between min and max levels

    13) after Pumping 4 times the pedal feel came back, if it does not return slowly pump forth and back

    My clutch feel is now back to normal, I hope this helps someone to speed up the process :).

    Cheers

    Ronny

  3. Any update on this? I ended up going with the taller gearing of the 997TT mainshaft and 1/2 gears... Went with steel syncros in 3-5 gears and all the rollpins (which is probably what came out by the way) are safety wired so none will every get loose and eat bits and pieces again. I also went with a Guards LSD while it was out, did the GT2 Slave Cylinder upgrade and had the CM clutch disc re-surfaced with Fibertuff material.

    Mike

    Yes, the gearbox has been taken apart. I wanted longer gear ratios, unfortunately nobody could confirm that the GT2 gear ratios fit so we sticked to original parts. Also Sportec sells a long 6 gear for a ridicoulous 4000 Swiss francs which doesn't make sense. The GT2 Synchro rings are optimized for racing and thus harder to change gears with so also for the rings we exchange with original parts as I use the car on the street only. The clutch was replaced beginning of this year with a strong Sachs clutch up to 800nm.

    The reason for the failure was the screw that got loose that holds the gears together.Its the one on the right hand side.

    img5853x.jpg

    This lead to a fialure of gears reverse, 5 and 6. Also 3 synchro rings are damaged:

    img5856i.jpg

    img5859.jpg

    img5860e.jpg

  4. Hi there

    Maybe a bit a stragne question therefore background info: I ordered a carbon fibre rear wing a few month ago at porscheshop.co.uk. It's a replacement part for the original Turbo rear wing. The supplied rear wing was about 1cm off so I couldn't mount it. Porscheshop now got the replacement in from the manufacturer and is asking me for the excact cm/inch meansurement between the two mounting points of the original porsche rear wing so that it really fits. Regular readers will know my car is currently in repair for a gearbox rebuild so off for another few weeks.

    So if any of you who have tuned the rear wing have the original part laying around in the cellar would you be so kind to measure the center of the two mounting points?

    Thanks

    Ronny

  5. And how many km do you have on it? Mine failed at about 250'000 if I remember correctly.

    About improving it, just give a call to Sportec before you take any decision. Highly recommended! If interested, shot me a pm and I'll give you a contact.

    km 120'000, monday's car, lots of failures in the last 15'000 km. The dealership I'm with does work with Sportec, will sure do that next week.

    Ronny

    PS. small word...just saw your signature, same regular car, same hobbie, I drove RCN this year in a Peugeot 207 RC and one VLN race the 6h. Next year I'll drive 5 VLN races with my two collegues :)

  6. Hi there

    Due to a gearbox failure I'll have a rebuild next week. I thought based on the POSES information it would be great to improve the gearbox when it's opened anyway. I was thinking about longer gear ratios and an improvement of the synchroniser rings. Porsche in Switzerland says there is no differnce. I checked the PET catalogue and I also see no difference in part numbers for the synchro rings.

    Does anybody know if there is wrong information in there?

    Hi Fedmax,

    Sorry to hear your box broke.

    I too have heard there is no difference except an LSD in the GT2!

    What was the nature of your failure. What broke etc... What sort of power mods are you running and do you know how much power you were putting through it.

    Frank

    The Gearbox goes to a specialized rebuild shop that also does engines and s on. It's not open yet so we do not know what's all broke. Fact is that it was not possible to downshift in any gear, upshifting worked. Clutch is fine. Small power mod to 460bhp (Sportec Power Mod 1)

  7. Hi there

    Due to a gearbox failure I'll have a rebuild next week. I thought based on the POSES information it would be great to improve the gearbox when it's opened anyway. I was thinking about longer gear ratios and an improvement of the synchroniser rings. Porsche in Switzerland says there is no differnce. I checked the PET catalogue and I also see no difference in part numbers for the synchro rings.

    Does anybody know if there is wrong information in there?

  8. Wow, nice milage :)

    Interesting...at what milage do you plan an engine work over? Regarding the PDK...would be intersted in it too...do you know how much will need to be changed i.e. is it plug and play gearbox or do you also need other parts and what about the different computer systems?

  9. You're fighting a losing battle.

    The only thing that 100% doesn't give you a resonance/drone is the factory exhaust.

    Virtually every type of aftermarket exhaust has been debated and discussed over and over. There are some that receive less drone complaints than others, but invariably, someone will say they hear it.

    Most of the problem lies in the fact the engine is so close to the cabin compared to earlier (993tt) turbos. Plus, there is no giant intercooler over the engine which will absorb the sound energy.

    BD

    I don't need to get rid of it completely just damp it a little. Do noise barrier and damper material not help in this case? I was thinking on putting some in the area behind the rear seats and below the rear window.

  10. Hi all

    I recently put a Tuning Exhaust from Tubistyle (Italy) on my 996 Turbo MJ 2002. The exhaust is ok from the outside, not too loud but I have a huge issue in the cabin: with low revs (1500-2500rpm) I get deep tone resonance inside the cabin to a level that is not fun to drive long distances. The exhaust is cool but I need to get rid of that resonance.

    Does anyone of you have experience with sound insulation for the cabin? What material would you use and where would you place it? E.g. is there enough room underneath the carpets behind the back seats?

    Any hints or links are helpful.

    Thanks

    Ronny

  11. Hi,

    You need to first, take the headset off. My car is a German spec MY02 and had a Nokia headset. This has four screws attaching the phone holder to the the console.

    With the headset out, you'll notice a round plug. If it is the leather version then it's next to impossible to pry it out without damage, but take care and do your best.

    Under the plug you find a torx screw. Take it out. Then push the face panel of the console up until it slides off the two upper slots. Take it out.

    Then take the two now exposed torx screws out. The console is now loose in the front. Reach down the console and push it out to the right of the car from the back of the console panel until it unclips off. That's it!

    If the only way is to damage it then I cannot take it out and have to live with it being not 100% fixed. I have to keep it because my tomtom is mounted to it.

  12. Hi there

    I have a factory installed phone in my 996 Turbo MY2002. The phone console that the headset was attached to is a bit shaky and not 100% mounted properly. I'd like to take it off and mount it/secure it properly however I couldn't find any screws to dismount it and I just dont want to pull as I'm afraid I could breakt something.

    Does anyone have instructions on how the phone concsole is mounted to the center console?

    Thanks

    Ronny

  13. I finished my little project today with adding an extension fuse box. I tapped into the seat heating fuse to do that which is switched. The extension box I placed behind the factory fuse box and secured it with duct tape and ran the wire behind the carpet to the center console. Attached a few pictures to highlight.

    post-54108-1265847677_thumb.jpg

    post-54108-1265847683_thumb.jpg

    post-54108-1265847690_thumb.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.