Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

ALLSPEED

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ALLSPEED

  1. The vent hose allows a place for the highly explosive hydrogen ( by-product of acid eating lead) to escape. The hydrogen can cause corrosion of metal in the area and could explode with spark if conditions are right. The chances are small but if you've ever experienced a battery explode it is not pretty. Listen to Loren.

  2. I know this is an old thread but could I get some quick advice? Car is a 99 996 C2 3.4 U.S. My parking brake is way out. So I don't have to take off the rotor, which way do you turn the adjusting nut in the hub to tighten the brake shoe. I know this sounds stupid but I don't want to get it too far out. Thanks. For instance, on the drivers side.

  3. I'm not quite clear. Are you losing coolant ? Is the light flashing or solid? From what I've seen here if it loses coolant it's most likely the coolant tank and if not it's most likely the coolant level sensor. There are several scenarios that can make this light flash. Engine compartment fan, coolant temp., coolant level. I just went through a similar problem on my 1999 911. There is a chart that shows most of the things that can make it flash. If your not losing coolant do a search or look at "Low coolant Light" under 996 series. They are very similar. Good Luck and don't give up.

  4. Since I've talked to someone else who had the same problems maybe there are others with an easy fix. Here are photos of the engine temp. sensor and the female connector. I took it apart and now it won't go back together. It goes far enough to make connection but not far enough to latch. The blades look straight and if they make connection they must be aligned. Who's had this problem ? If it looked damaged I would try and source another but it looks O.K. Sorry about the photos.post-55687-0-24176600-1317085481_thumb.jpost-55687-0-61781800-1317085518_thumb.j Is it the connector on the wire or sensor? any Ideas appreciated.

  5. Well, yippee ki-yay. I want to thank Logray and Loren and all others who helped me with this problem. Logan- There is a reason you kept going back to the engine blower sensor. You solved the problem but keep your fingers crossed. I looked and looked for the sensor. Not where it was supposed to be. Got a mirror and flashlight and looked where it was supposed to be, down between the intake manifold. It was machined for a grommet which wasn't there. I search and found it hanging with the grommet. I think it never got put in place after valve work by Dealer because it is a real tight fit. Had to use WD40 to get it back in slot. Ran the engine and the highest I could get it was 103c but no light. I am 99% sure this was it because earlier I unplugged the fan at the motor and the light came on at 92c. No matter what problem I simulated it always flashed at the same speed. I want everyone who has read this thread to remember the fix because this was a dog to troubleshoot.

    I haven't been able to take her out on the street because I still can't get the connector on the coolant temp. sensor to lock. Surely it will vibrate apart. Logray said he had the same problem but a new sensor connected fine. I really don't want to replace that one as it works but just lacks a sixteenth to lock. Any of you guys have any ideas. There are four flat pins and must be aligned properly because they make contact to work but can't close to latch. Thanks again to Logray for thinking of so many different scenario's to check and staying with me on this one. I now feel a weight off my shoulders except that darn connector. Thanks Guys.

  6. I'm sure one of you folks can help me and I appreciate it. Could someone show me the location for an "engine compartment purge fan" temp. sensor and any tips to get in and out. I looked at a diagram of a 996 mk2 engine and I didn't see it as easy as they show it. Mine is a 1999. Thanks, Robert. I wrote temp. sensor on the heading but the program cut it off.

  7. Yes I had it trucked back to Jake Raby's in Georgia back in Feb. If he was out here I would take it to him now. Not that I am blaming him for the problem but it didn't start happening until the first time I drove it for a while on a hot summer day after I got it back. He is a really nice guy and I think one of the best around. The reason I sent it to him is I found some little bits of metal in my oil filter. I sent off oil samples, took pictures and like my "flashing light" nobody knew what it was from. I couldn't find anyone out here who didn't want to just R&R another engine. Raby & Charles Navarro from L&N leaned toward IMS bearing of course and Wayne Dempsey and Tony Calles weren't sure. So I went the bearing route. He did the IMS retrofit procedure and the bearing was in good shape. This also included the extras like clutch,throw-out bearing etc.. Also had a discolored by heat flywheel so I got a used one. He drove it and drove it and couldn't find any more metal. I told him to keep driving it. Then he found some. Tore open top end and found very worn Vario Cam Pads and replaced them and # 4 &5 timing chains.He also replaced all 24 lifters, plugs, air-oil separator among other things. The thing related to the coolant is that he replaced the water pump. He leaned toward the level sensor but that was before I did all this testing. I will try and get a hold of him before I order the two sensors. He knew of no way to test the level sensor and if there were it would just as hard as changing it. I thought I would be free of problems for a while but here I am with another " no one is sure". This poor little car is driving me crazy with all the unknown problems. I'm still accepting ideas. BTW- I put the coolant back in the tank and when I started it the light quit flashing and didn't start flashing until 100c and the engine purge fan came on at 78.5c. I can't get the connector all the way back on the temp. sensor. It has four little blades that line up and make contact but doesn't go all the way to latch. I will see if you can order just the plug without a harness and with a new sensor it should go back together. This one should go back together. Any ideas on that. Thanks, Robert.

  8. Now I am really confused because from that chart Loren got from a TSB I believe said that the only condition for 1 HZ flashing lamp was a bad coolant temperature sensor. So I was ready to order the sensor. We originally thought that the flashing light was just low coolant or bad purge fan. They were both suppose to throw a .5 hz flashing lamp. I took out 3/4 gal of coolant to see if a low coolant condition would flash at .5 instantly without warming to 200f. Well the light immediately came on and flashed at the 1HZ rate. So now what is the problem since a low coolant condition is flashing at the wrong rate. Here's the video. any more ideas. I appreciate every one and hate to just guess. Thanks, Robert

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.