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oskibear

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Everything posted by oskibear

  1. oskibear
    Perhaps the battery for the alarm. If the battery alarm goes bad, then it draws current for the car battery. So Im told.
  2. oskibear
    You make a very good point... I'm in London and my guess is that it is worth about £40K, (£38K on a bad day), so that would get me $60-65K at the current exchange rate... I might well be able to save myself a big hassle... The car was a gift from a weathly friend, so am concerned that my wife will give me a lot of **** if I have the cash and spend it on a replacement... She woulkd expect me to downgrade and spend the extra cash on house/her car, etc...
  3. oskibear
    I own a 2006 997 Cab 4S auto that is a Rest of World (RoW) spec ie Left hand drive with gauges in Kilometers, (but digital in Miles). I've owned it here in the EU for over a year but am anticipating moving back to California later this year. I am under the impression that it would not be too difficult to get it up to California specs and that it might simply be a matter of some tuning via the ECU or some such. Can anyone shed some light on this subject or point me to some online resources? Any suggestions on an importer to use? Can/will Porsche do this for me? Thanks
  4. oskibear
    My A/C blows HOT no matter the temp settings... I'm not saying it is not getting cold enough, I am saying it is roasting hot as if the heater is blasting. I took it in to my local shop (not OPC) for servicing (40K) and had them take a look. They said the system was charged a bit too high and so they relieved the pressure a bit and they said it then worked for a minute or two... They also said that the pipes are getting cold so the system itself is working... They think it is in the controls somewhere... Any suggestions from the collective???
  5. oskibear
    My 2006 Cab 4S had sat for 2 weeks, and I had to charge the battery to start it. A week or so later I went to top up the oil and noticed a bit of "choclate milk" on the inside of the oil filler cap and a bit around the opening of the tube. If it was a heavier coating I would immediatly suspect a head-gasket. I am hoping that someone will tell me that a bit of humity built up in the engine while it sat through the rapid change from summer to winter. Perhaps it condensed at the high spot in the loop and created this? 3 q-tips and a few wipes of the paper towel and it is good as new. It needs to head in for a service so I'll have it checked out, but I wanted to get some feedback from the collective. Regards, Oski Go Bears!
  6. oskibear
    All the chatter about the IMS had me thinking... Does my Nov 2005 built C4S Cab have the revised IMS? Running the VIN through "Scouser's decoder" :thankyou: shows a 2006 model year... It has the number 6 as the tenth diget in the VIN. Can some guru out there put my mind at ease?
  7. oskibear
    Boy did I go through the rears quickly on my 997 C4S. The middle bit of the tyre looks fine, even the outer edge still looks good... but the inner part went right into the cord when I wasn't paying attention. From the wear pattern, I would guess that they have quite a bit of camber to the set up... does this sound right or do I need a rear wheel alignment?
  8. oskibear
    My question is the opposite... I have an RoW model, that I would one day like to bring back to the USA... It might even end up in California... It sounds like it may be possible for Porsche to re-map the ECU to pass the strict SMOG test??? Or are there other issues at play here that make my plan unfeasable???
  9. oskibear
    Funny... before I bought my 997 4S from a friend, I had borrowed it driven it a few times whenever I was visting him... I mentioned to him that he should have it checke out as I thought the front-end floated around a bit... He mentioned it to his wife, who has only ever owned/driven porsches, and her response was: "how many porsches have you driven"... the implication was that they did that all did this... Now that I own it, I have become acclimated to the light front-end... It feels less solid than my front-engine BMW, but must admit that it still seems to perform accurate, even though it feels like it is floating... so perhaps it is just the nature of rear-engine high performance cars... Perhaps a bit of weight in the boot (not an elegant solution) or it needs more down-force... a nice aftermarket nose that generates more downward force on the front-end might do it...
  10. oskibear
    Through a bizarre set of circumstances, a high-end (not OPC) dealer in Marbella was supposed to service my '06 Cab 4S... They were in a mad rush to get the car ready for me... painting the front bumper, pulling some minor dents, replacing the battery and a "service". I had to remind them to stamp the book just as I was driving away to bring the car back to the UK... Now in the UK, and the "service" reminder is coming on... So clearly they did not reset it... Now I am wondering if the actually even did service the car (specifically change the oil). With the electronic oil measure, there seems to be no way to visually inspect the oil... Although I would agree that it might possible be difficult to verify this even if I could see it... Are there any suggestions from the collective on how to inspect this, or should I just have it changed again as it could not hurt? I would also like to reset the service light... any suggestions on this? I imagine most shops would be hesitant to reset this if they have not done the work...
  11. oskibear
    it sure seems simple with no need to remove the calipers from the rotor... a first for me! On a small number of brake jobs I've done, it is as simple as you describe... just apply some good leveraged pressure against the pistons in the calipers to push them apart. Some jobs have required the opening of the bleed valves to allow the pressure to easily escape... This makes some sense as the effort to push the fluid all the way back through the master cylinder and into the reseviour can be difficult to produce. Other times have been a real b*tch and I've had to used a "C" clamp and open the bleed valve to get the pistons pushed back... It seems that you are saying the 1st option to use some leverage with channel locks will be enough...?? Thanks for the help! Oski
  12. oskibear
    Thanks Loren! It is just what I was looking for... One question relating to seperating the old pads far enough to insert the new wider pads. In the following step: "first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture". What is location and operation of the "piston resetting fixture"? Regards, Oski
  13. oskibear

    Hi Loren, Not surprised you had the answer... as I have seen excellent responses from you on this subject. I live in London now but lived in Sacto many years ago... Started college at American River before transfereing to Berkeley. Back then I worked at the Price Club on Madison and Manzinita before they moved it and became Costco. This was way back in the day when I was still driving VW bugs...

  14. oskibear
    I'm headed in for the 30K service soon and am anticipating the front brake pads will need to be replaced... I've done a dozen brake jobs, but never on a 911, but I am inclined to DIY this... I've read there are some issues with part numbers on the early 997s and will watch for that. It's a 4S with the red calipers and I am hoping someone can point me to an online guide... I did search for 30 minutes, but I figure someone must know exactly where to look :) Any and all suggestions are most welcome... Cheers, Oski
  15. oskibear
    yeah Sam, we're talking about the same thing... my Navi DVD drive IS under the luggage compartment cover as described, I've had that off a few times now. The CD changer is NOT under that cover. Using the lower picture, my cd changer is mounted down inside the boot, sort of in front of the screw marked with the #1... Sorry to hear about your run in with the French police...
  16. oskibear
    I've been driving on my US license (which I should have moved to the UK license a long time ago) and now I am on a gibraltar registered car... as a general rule this has the potential to get me out of the usual speed camera crap. but I'm sure they will throw the book at me if they ever physically pull me over. Dodged a beauty in France last month... Police where sitting with their hand-held speed gun and were tuck in just over the top of a hill. I was blowing by at over 200Km/hr, but I was mostly hidden from view in the outside lane passing a lorry as I blew by him... we saw each other for a fraction of a second, but there was no way he could get a clear shot on me... Pure dumb luck... I was down the hill and gone...
  17. oskibear
    Hmmm, I've removed the large plastic cover towards the back of the boot the covers the sat nav dvd drive and exposes the brake fluid reserviour... but my cd changer is towards the front down low in the boot, mounted to the left, just inboard of the tyre. It sits vertically and the cd cartridge drops down into changer. Both my brother in law and I are stumoed as to how to get to the back of the cd changer...
  18. oskibear
    Well, I made some progress... As suggested, it is a Dennison iPod unit, and it does seem to be installed in the optical loop instead of the CD changer. Some how the CD changer is then connected to that Dennison unit and there is a small box with a switch in the glove box that allows me to toggle between the iPod and the CD changer (So that's what that is for! :thankyou:) As for the Navi DVD: I tried holding down the eject button for a while... I tried it again while unplugging and replugin the power connectors... I tried 1,4,8... nothing worked on ejecting the disc in the DVD drive... I was hoping to "go back to the factory setting" by removing the Dennison iPod unit from the optical loop and plugging the CD changer back in were it was... Despite removing a good bit of the carpeting and having a good look around, I cannot for the life of me, figure out how to remove the CD changer covering and get to the back of the CD changer to gain access to the plugs... There must be some trick to removing the plastic cover on the CD Changer, but I can't figure it out... any suggestions?
  19. oskibear
    I| think you guys may be on to something with the iPod as the source of the problem... interestingly, when the iPod plays, it shows up as the CD changer playing, so it must have taken its place on the optical loop... It is certainly worth sacraficing the cd changer for the Ipod connection... So I am not to bothered by that... The next question is did the install of the iPod connection mess up the sat nav somehow... they both show as red triangles when you press MAIN and TRIP. I will attempt to go back to factory connection with the CD changer and see if that also pulls the sat nav into line... watch this space...
  20. oskibear
    Thanks for the great suggestions, but I must say that while I am mechanically inclined, electronics are not my strong suite. It appears there is power to the plug, and at least one of the optical cables lights up. I pulled the entire DVD unit out and even opened up the unit (997.642.137.02, Model BE 6647) and have stripped it down to the 3.5 DVD drive. There is a disc in it, but despite the work, it still won't eject (there are two small vertical bars that somehow retract before the DVD can pop out). Can Porsche or some other high-end audio shop bench test these things? I suspect that I have a bad unit and it may be around the power input, which it does not seem getting... I do have the Bose stereo and the CD (in the dash), the Ipod connection and all other elements work fine...
  21. oskibear
    I was getting a rattle that sounded a lot like a heat shield. Primarily on idle and when lifting off the gas... It turned out to be the support rod directly behing the rear sheel that bolts to the frame and then screws to the rear bumper just behind the rear wheel. You can actually see the rod in question just by crouching down and peaking behind the rear tire. it looked just fine, but when I gave it a wiggle, it was apparent that it was not screwed in properly. It seems the screw had vibrated out (perhaps the bumper was off and they did not remount it correctly) and the rod was just resting up against the heat shield causing the vibration... I searched the 997 archive but could not find anything, but then it was suggested in the 996 list on another forum... you have to like a free and easy fix to a problem...
  22. oskibear
    My new-to-me 2006 997 came with the PCM problem "system error: Navigation system not available". To be fair I got such a good deal, that I can't complain. The non-porsche dealer thought that perhaps the disc was missing... They tried to stick another disc in but it seems (feels) like there is one in there already. Pressing the eject button does nothing. There seems to be some noise from it so it appears to be getting power. I'm hoping there is a "reset" button or a manual eject, like the little hole on a laptop disc drive... I am hoping to avoid the OPC while my wallet recovers from the initial pain. The main/trip SW screen says: SW version 3.2 Unit: Navigation system Target: / Actual:___________/__________ Entered: yes Found: no Any suggestions from the collective?
  23. oskibear
    When closing the doors on my Cabriolet there is a slight window rattle... not much, but enough to make me think that someone in quality control had an extra pint at lunch... I would expect a nice simple tuetonic thunk. Instead it sounds more like my 65 mustang... Clearly a big issue is the fact that it is a cab, but there must be some kind of adjustment or window gasket that is worn... any suggestions from the collective? Cheers, Oski
  24. oskibear
    2006 997.1 C4S with Chrono Sport I'm still trying to figure out if I have PSE. Does it come automatically with Chrono Sport (which I do have)? I have the Sport button, but I do not have a seperate PSE button and my quad pipes all appear to be the same size. I've asked this question before and the answers I got back was that the inner and outer tailpipes would be of different sizes if I had PSE... But I thave then read in other places that this was not always the case (you gotta love the internet). Does anyone out there have an opinion as to if I might have PSE as part of the Chrono package, but no seperate button and all pipes the same size? I think the the exhaust does get louder when I step on it, but that might happen to some degree even without PSE. Thanks, Oski
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