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white99c2

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Posts posted by white99c2

  1. Here are 2 mods I did to end the madness I was going through while driving and staring at that temperature gauge. The first is a snap to do, its a switch you can use to turn on the radiator fans on high speed. The second is a jumper wire between the low speed fan relays and the high speed, so when you don't use the switch mentioned above the fans are set to come on low speed at around 205 degrees, this hack makes high speed come on instead of low speed and cools down much quicker.

    Also. I don't know where you live but it must be Florida with 90 degree temps yesterday, I drained out 3 gallons of coolant and added 3 gallons of distilled water and on bottle of "Wetter Water" it helps lower coolant system temps, read about it.

    All of these trick helped my '99 stay cooler, no more staring at the gauge. In bumper to bumper traffic with A/C on, its going to run hot so just accept it but after a few minutes of open road driving it should maintain. In the summer I call my car Inferno.

    http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/204627-radiator-engine-fan-mods.html

    http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509504,1509681

    A few of thoughts.

    My car does seem to run a little hotter at highway speeds that at 45 mph.

    If you did the tank yourself, are you sure that the cooling system is fully bled?

    After chasing a cooling issue for months, I finally did the following:

    • Cleaned radiators again
    • New expansion tank (old one has a leak)
    • New OEM expansion tank cap
    • 160F thermostat and housing from LN Engineering.

    This combination has has a significant impact on operating temperature. While I have not seen 90F outisde, it was 61F today here and the car ran steady 176F - 181F compared to 194F to 200F during the winter when it was regularly 0F.

    Thank You guys, I do appreciate your comments,to answer your questions, yes i am sure the cooling system was bled correcly after installing the new coolant Expansion tank because i didn't drain the engine block ,I just drained the engine until the expansion tank was empty, then i stopped draining so there could not be any air in the system. I don't think so anyway and i had the car jacked up just at the back so it was on a severe slope downhill when i did the work, also i opened the purge valve before i took it for a test drive. I noticed yesterday that the new expansion tank cap is not OEM, its made in Germany and its new but made by some outfit called Fluer or something like that. It looks identical to the OEM piece that was on the car when I got it, maybe I'll try the old cap on the new tank, good.

    The car does not leak any coolant any more. I will get on L & N's website to find out more about the 160 degree thermostat, i'm really worried about this so i guess new water pumps and thermostats are in my future,geez I thought cleaning the radiators would for sure fix it, there was so much crap in there. I'll do the water pump just to ease my mind. Anyone know anything about the water pumps advertised as having metal impellers? is that a good deal? Is the OEM one have rubber impellers ?

  2. I went through the same exact issue for 6 months. My car even had pressure tests done on it. I first changed the expansion tank cap. Look under the drivers side exhaust pipe for signs of a leak, It will stain the metal. My expansion tank leak was very slow than one hot day last summer I went to Wal Mart Shopping came out and there was a puddle under the car. Coolant tank is my bet.

    99' 996. 27k miles

    About a month ago the low coolant light started blinking (slow blink). I topped it off and crossed my fingers hoping that it was just a little low (light went off everything seemed fine). Within 200 miles it was back on so I figured there was a slow leak. I let the car idle but couldn't find any trace of a leak. I brought the car to my mechanic (I'm lucky he's 2 minutes from my house). Had the car looked over but the mechanic couldn't find anything ether. I drove the car for a few more weeks (100 or so miles a week) with no problem until last night.

    After a 60 mile spirited drive I parked the car, turned it off and roughly a pint or so of coolant began leaking from the rear, drivers side over the exhaust. I let the car cool down, refilled the coolant and started it up expecting to see where the coolant was coming from. Nothing happened, everything seemed normal (no warning lights). I drove the car 60 miles back to my house, the low coolant light started blinking slowly near my house. Still no sign of a constant leak.

  3. If it was me and I was concerned about something as serious an an IMS, I'd take it to your Porsche dealer and not mess around with trial and error.

    In regards to my pervious post regarding my 1999 996 C2 coupe 6 spd.( IMS "death rattle" ? ) I have though a lot about this and the noise is most likely a chain tensioner but I am going to go forward with my diagnostics and drain the oil, remove the filter and dissect it for evidence of debris. I will most likely pull the pan and up date it with the deeper pan, as I am planning on keeping the car for a long time. I bought this car with track days in mind as a replacement for the sport bikes I had for track days (getting to old for injuries) I want to do all the necessary upgrades on the drive train before I get into the suspension.

    There seems to be quite a list for MY 99. This is what I have found.

    RMS

    IMS bearing

    Chain tensioners

    Oil pan

    Replace , clutch and related parts

    I would appreciate any additions to this list as well as the best source for parts / tools. I run modil 1 0- W – 40, changed every 3000 miles. Is there a better oil or weight I should run. On another note my brother has a 2005 Boxter S and recently had the transmission replaced, he had an issue with it popping out of 2nd gear. I don't know what the issue was but I would like to know if I should have a concern with my transmission or diff option codes 220 locking dif. 40% / 224 ABD. I will change the fluid in the transaxle when it is out of the car so I should also like to know the best fluid to use.

    Thanks for the info on my previous post and all the other info found on this forum,

    As my father has told me years ago when I bought my 74 carrara "old 911s never die they just go faster" I would like to prove him right.

  4. I removed the bumper cover and cleaned out 11 years worth of crap from the radiators then power washed them. I dumped the coolant and switched to straight distilled water and 2-12 OZ bottles of Water Wetter. I did the cooling fan mod and engine compartment mod and now have them on as soon as I start the car.

    I use the Porsche AC Diagnostics to display the coolant temp on the left side of the climate control center. When it shows 85C thats 185F I can tell the thermostat has opened because boiling hot air is pouring out of the discharge on both the left and right sides of the front bumper from the cooling fans.

    As far as I can tell, everything on my 996 is working, maybe it just runs hot.

    On a side note I went to a Porsche Pancakes breakfast this morning and it was only 95 degrees here. My coolant never went higher then 98C, thats 208F on a 45 mile round trip, it was only 95F this morning.

    Yesterday it was 116F and my climate control coolant temp showed 113C thats 235F with the AC blasting. Thats a new record for my car, the dash gauge was at the next line past 180.

  5. My '99 with 50k miles makes a rattling noise when started cold every time. I counted, it lasts 2 seconds. It's quieter since I switched to 20W50 Mobile 1.

    I read that Porsche was aware of a noisy IMS during cold starts in the 1999 and 2000's then corrected it in the '01 when they changed the IMS bearing design. Am I correct?

  6. Did you release the vent by lifting the spring valve just above the tank, it burps the system and should get rid of any air bubbles. start the car with the vent up, warm it up and drive it for a mile or so.

    The best way is to get a vacuum system like the Uview 55000:

    http://www.amazon.com/U-View-Vacuum-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B001DICJV6

    You may find one for under $100 if you look around.

    There is also a bleeder valve on the top of the coolant tank, the little metal loop opens the bleeder. But this is a slower way, and is not as fool proof. There are a lot of hoses and tubes with high spots that trap air in them.

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