Lcv

Is that the machine they use in the dealer, if so they have told that the whole hydraulic unit must be replaced :(, it's about 2500 € just for the part, that's why I wanted to check here, as it sounded like it was easier to replace the whole thing than to actually bother fixing it.!?

Right guys I have the Code it's S260 Admission Valve hope this means something to someone and that there is an inexpensive way to fix it. thanks in advance :)

Maurice,

You sir are a gentleman. ;) Thanks very much for all the info. That article is fantastic and is well worth the read, I have also added it to my favourites.

Can anyone confirm the part number for the ABS Controller for 97 boxster 204cc with ABS and TC and also is this the correct part number or is this something else:

986 355 755 00.

thanks

I must be driving mine too hard :o, the most I have ever got was 470 Km on a full tank and generally I average between 300 and 400Km.(180-250 miles) on a 97 boxster

Does anybody have a part number for the Plastic pins that attach to the elastic which is stiched to the inside of the hood that ensures that the hood stays within the external guides. They are black, about 2 cms long and sit roughly at the height of your head on either side. They tend to feed through the elastic. Hope this makes sense.

just a quick update, have not had a chance to go to the dealer to get the codes yet but something strange happened today. I haven't used the car for 4 days and this morning the lights didn't come on at all and the traction worked. I then had to come up a garage ramp which had a really tight angle so the traction had to kick in several times and that caused the lights to come back on and for the system to shut down again?????? I am very puzzled, don't know if this helps confirm that there is a electronic problem or not, but thought I would put all the info on here as it happens. Should be going to the dealer to get the codes either tomorrow or thursday though.

The brake switch have a double action, it is possible that the brake light function is o.k. but the second function not. As Loren says you need the codes, could be a bad sensor or an interrupted wiring as well.

no probs will ring the dealer on monday and ask them to tell me what the codes were.

They did reset the codes but as soon as the car was moved they came back on again. As for the MAF this was replaced a couple of years ago when the car lost a lot of power (fairly sure it was the MAF they replaced). Will check the brake lights but fairly sure they work. Also I'll see if I can get the fault codes. thanks for your help guys. appreciate it and any other ideas would be welcome.

Hi Guys,

Need some help. Have a 97 Boxster 204cc and 2 lights have come on, on the dashboard, ABS and TC OFF.I currently have no ABS and Traction and cannot turn them back on. Dealer has said that the ABS module or component box (Am in Spain so not sure this is the right translation) needs to be replaced and has quoted 1800 Euros. Says the electronics have gone. So my question is the following:

Is there any way to fix this for a lot cheaper?

Does anybody know if this price is correct for this box?

Any other options I have for fixing it?

I'm at the point now after having spent 2000 Euros last month on various other bits of deciding enough is enough and mayv¡be it's time to sell and get out.

Any advice appreciated

chs jon,

I think i´ll put it with till it breaks ;)

Guys, I think this is the noise mine is now making but only when left for a period of time. Did anyone ever figure this out?

right new v-lever in and AT FIRST a few probs but all sorted now and working perfectly at 1/6 of the cost thanks to MSSRS TOOLPANTS AND MARK. THANKS GUYS APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP. One last thing now I´ll have a quick look through the forum see if I can track it down but one side of the roof sticks out of the side trim when I close it. Any ideas?

think i got it sorted, need to replace one of the v-levers which snapped when i was playing around with the timings, but the hood works with one up and down and the lights are going out when it goes up and down so will confirm when i have the second lever on. cheers toolpants and mark.

ok spun the v-levers round and also attached the pull joints to the other sides, and it´s seems to work fine for most of the procedure. When putting roof down there is no problem everything works ok and light goes out. When putting the roof back up there is a loud noise when the clamshell closes as if it´s skipping gears or something then hood reopens and tries to close again. It does this several times and does not turn off the hood light. Is it time to change the tansmisssion motors? Is there a switch which the roof should be pressing to turn the motors off etc? Any ideas would be great. thanks

ok yep looks to me like mine are 180 off so I will reverse them and try again, thx toolpants will let u know how i get on. Pics deffo make things easier ;)

not really as when I am lowering the roof it gets to the point where I have to stop as otherwise the pistons try to push the clamshell further back than it can physically go, hence why I think the v-levers are not timed properly. I have currently disconnected the pull rods(plastic joint bits) to avoid breaking these until I know the v-leveres are on properly.

OK SOME PICS TO HELP

The first picture is when the roof is fully up and locked, as you can see the TOP of the v lever is pointing backwards (towards the exhaust) and the second picture is after i open the roof top just enough to get into the space under the clamshell maybe 2 seconds of holding the button. as you can see the TOP of the v-lever is pointing up so it is the same as a normal v at this point.

PICTURE 1 BACK OF THE CAR > <--v lever

PICTURE 2 v <-- v lever

This is a new one for me.

What is the model year for your car, not the registration year.

Do you know if you have the new or old style top transmissions.  Did you remove what we call the V levers that are bolted to the transmissions.

What parts did you replace and why did you need to replace what was replaced.

Does the roof go up and down and work properly otherwise.

Now for my silly question.  The switch is oval.  There is a raised part of the oval button and a recessed part.  Which end of the switch do you press when you want the roof to go up.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Toolpants,

The car is a late 96 early 97 model. It has the old style transmissions, with the half moon cogs. Yes I did remove the V-levers because when one of the pull rods with the plastic joints snapped, I didn´t realise what was going on so stupidly tried moving the top with the motor. One of the v-levers snapped and so I have a new pull rod and a new v lever, now I can´t be sure that I have put the v-lvers back on with the transmissions being where they are meant to be (cog wise) so what I want to know is how do i make sure that when i reconnected the v-levers that i did it with the transmissions in the right place. After all I did fiddle with the transmissions using the motors to see if they still worked. By the way I have the old style transmission cables which I have cut the housing on as it was too long.

As for the button, the raised part with the picture of the roof raised is now dropping the roof and vice versa.

Cheers

Does nobody here know how to solve this problem? or even check the timings on the transmisions? Any help appreciated

fantastic any chance of something similar on how to align the timings etc.... :)

Guys,

Had to try and realign the transmissions on roof as the pull rod snapped. anyway something really strange happening now. When I press up the roof goes down and vice versa, could the relay be shagged? Any ideas? Also can anyone help with the timings on the transmissions. Whats the best way to ensure that I have these aligned correctly with the roof so that it does all the right actions.

Cheers