DBJoe996

I would be very careful with those levers. I have heard of broken ones and no replacement parts are available. Have to buy the whole assembly, or find one at a junk yard. I think you remove the bottom two screws and the whole assembly pops off with the levers still on. Then maybe you can put it on the bench and use some plastic tools to gently pry off the levers.

Same type of goo on mine. I was thinking of trying out some various sizes of screen spline (the rubber cord that holds a screen in a frame), but I haven't tried that yet. Maybe I will now.

Just speaking from my experience and it is up to you whichever way you go - as Loren pointed out, specialized tools and testing, however, the airbag system and airbags are checked every time you start your car. If a problem is detected anywhere, the gauge cluster airbag light will come on. Then it is time to get it checked, probably by a Porsche dealer. If your airbag light is off, then no problems and I would skip paying good money for this sort of specialized testing. Like I said, up to you.

From the location I would definitely check the AOS bellows which is above.

There is absolutely no correlation between changing out coil packs and having the engine D-chunk on one of the cylinders. His engine had more problems to begin with. Your issue is due to cracked coils getting wet and the engine running badly after it rains. The new coil packs are a good thing and your car will run better.

Replace all coil packs with the newer version. You have cracked coil packs. Just do it. Water in the air filter is not the problem. That would affect all cylinders and the car would run very badly, if at all. Pull the air box, open it up and check that the drain hole is clear of debris in the bottom of the box.

If you bought Firestone tires, it is probably a defective tire.

Jump starting the car rarely kills the battery, unless you hook up the jumper connections wrong (backwards), then all kinds of bad stuff happens. If it won't charge then it is a bad battery. It really doesn't matter that it was undriven for 4 weeks. However, that length of time may result in a dead battery. Some batteries just will not recover from being fully discharged for a length of time such as 4 weeks. All depends on the battery type and current condition. I don't understand why you don't just change out the battery without going to a dealer. That's going to cost a fortune. Any NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reillys can help you install a new battery. Recommendation - get an AGM battery, H7 size.

Is it a newer type AGM battery? By experience, one day they work and the next day it is dead. Probably has a broken cell inside the battery. Time for a new battery. Before disconnecting the battery cables, make sure you have your radio code if it requires one.

There are two emergency release cables. One is for the front trunk lid and it is located underneath the passenger side headlight. The only problem with that is getting to it, because if the trunk lid is not open you cannot release the headlight to get to it. So you have to pull down the front passenger side wheel liner and reach up to find the cable. The second emergency release cable is for the engine lid. It is located underneath the drivers side tail light. Put some painters tape on your bumper under the tail light and use a plastic wedge to expand the gap between the light and bumper. Shine a light in the gap and you will see a cable that you can fish out with a coat hanger hook, or something with a hook on it. That will open the engine lid where you can get to the jumper points in the engine bay. With a good battery, connect to the jump points and that should enable you to get the trunk lid open. And let me use this opportunity to make a strong recommendation - once you get the trunk lid open so you can access the battery, pop the headlight and locate the emergency release cable. Then re-route the cable to just inside the front bumper tow hook plug. When, not if, in the future you have to deal with a dead battery, pop the tow hook plug and there is the emergency release cable.

The first thing I would do is unplug the engine wiring harnesses on the right side of the engine bay and spray them with electrical contact cleaner, then plug and unplug them a couple of times to clean up the contacts. Do the same with each and every electrical connection on the TB. With those types of codes they all seem to point to some problem with the TB and control valves on the TB, and the DME is not receiving the correct readings from the TB, MAF sensor and other sensors.

This is truly a mystery. Even disconnecting the battery the gauges do not return to 0. This suggests to me that the circuit board behind the cluster, and the connectors, need to be checked. One simple question is...does the car start and run? The reason for the question is that all of the inputs to the instrument cluster come from all over the car from various sensors, but the common point is the DME/ECU. That is what gets all of the sensor readings and sends them to the instrument cluster. And since you have a "tune", perhaps the DME/ECU needs to be reflashed or refreshed. Just some thoughts....

^^And maybe B10 as well.

I would start by replacing the electrical part of your ignition switch. Known to cause all types of electrical gremlins.

Only the drivers side rear fog light works. There is no passenger side rear fog light. That is by design. Just so you don't go running around checking all your wiring, fuses and bulbs.

The sixty seconds on and then off is for e-gas calibration. On your car the signal for the accelerator pedal position is sent by wire to the throttle body. You should hear a whirring sound from the engine compartment. Fuel pressure regulators have been known to fail, not often, but they can fail.

The simple answer is...yes. The DME/ECU relies on the CPS to determine where the crankshaft is in order to provide spark to each individual cylinder. No CPS, no spark.

Inside of Part #1 there are little plastic tabs that hold the turn signal indicator lever up (or down) until either canceled manually or after making your turn. The plastic tabs are not repairable. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=903-10

You might check these guys out for a rebuilt unit and swap of your existing transmission. http://www.gboxweb.com/

Thanks for coming back and sharing what resolved the issue. Helps others.

Basically the P1328 error relates to an open circuit on Bank 1. You will need to check the wiring harness connector, wiring, and may have to trace it back to the DME. First thing I would do is unplug the engine wiring harness connectors on the passenger side of the engine bay, and clean the connectors with some electrical cleaner. Do the same for the solenoid connector plug.

These step by step instructions should help Door panel removal http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/76-BODY-Door_Panel_Removal/76-BODY-Door_Panel_Removal.htm Regulator replacement http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/77-BODY-Replacing_Your_Window_Regulator_and_Motor/77-BODY-Replacing_Your_Window_Regulator_and_Motor.htm

I saw that you posted on Rennlist as well, and never got a response. The oil cooler is located way back on the right side of the engine. Replacing the four O-rings (2 for coolant and 2 for oil, and they are different sizes) under the oil cooler requires removal of the A/C compressor, then removal of the intake on Bank 2. You have to perform the same steps for installing and replacing the oil cooler entirely. Read up carefully on removing the A/C compressor because it can be difficult getting the bolt out behind the compressor. You need to remove the intake because you need a straight on shot up and down for removing/replacing the oil cooler. You will also need to drain some coolant so the level in the engine is below the oil cooler, otherwise you will contaminate your oil. And yes, you will need to support the engine with a jack, remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine to the cross-member (as low as it can go still in the car) in order to gain enough room to remove the Bank 2 intake. The intake bolts can be difficult to gain enough access to remove. I have found it necessary to remove the rear bumper and heat shields to lower the engine as far as you can get it, without removing the mufflers/cats. Since the mufflers/cats are attached to the engine, it all comes down as one unit. You also will have to undo the connections for the O2 sensors so you don't strain the wiring lowering the engine. If you are going to tackle this job yourself, I highly recommend getting a Bentleys Service Manual for the 996. They are available on Amazon. You can see the location of the oil cooler in this picture taken from the transmission side of the engine. It is the silver looking "box" under the Bank 2 intake. Also, if the oil cooler requires replacement, only get one from a reputable source, i.e., OE Porsche. Some people have replaced the oil cooler with a cheap knockoff brand and found that they leak because the flat surface of the oil cooler is not flat and smooth like it should be. Given the work involved, this is no time to try and save money and have to do a do-over. I would replace the oil cooler and all O-rings at one time. You will need new intake O-rings as well, as well as a bunch of other items (such as Porsche coolant for a refill when done). Parts Source - http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-00