DBJoe996

My AOS casing cracked and leaked coolant.  It was not a major coolant leak, but enough that it leaked down the engine casing and left a small pool of coolant on the garage floor.  So yes, your AOS needs to be replaced.  Recommend only an original Porsche AOS replacement.

I concur with JFP.  A smoke test is in order.  Could be your evap canister has cracked due to age/mileage.

Get the CEL code again and post.  Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down.  I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts.  Also, what year and model?  Other recent maintenance or problems?  There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider.  See here 

Maybe this will be of some help

Please do not buy a rebuilt or used window regulator.  Once you see how difficult this job is, you will want to only do it once!

The Pelican link says it is applicable for the 996 cab.  Look at the top right and it lists all the models.  So maybe give them a call and check?

Pelican Parts smartop rolling override https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/72-BODY-SmartTop_Rolling_Override/72-BODY-SmartTop_Rolling_Override.htm

Please read https://www.renntech.org/forum/239-lost-radio-codes/

19 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

It is air bound, you should have pulled a vacuum on the system to get the air out and then (still under vacuum) refilled the system.

Agree.  If you are not able to do this get some professional help because air pockets in the cooling system can damage the engine.

More than likely the circuit board in the key fob has gone bad.  Happens to almost 20 year old key fobs.  Mine went out years ago and I simply use the key.  As for the windows, maybe a reset of the upper and lower limits would make it work.  Push the window button for down and continue to hold the button for 5-7 seconds after it reaches the bottom limit.  Release button and  then push it for up, continue to hold the button for 5-7 seconds after it reaches the upper limit.

Pull back the carpet against the front firewall in the passenger seat footwell.  You will see a small drain hose connected to the bottom of the HVAC box.  Undo the clamp and can undo the hose and blow it out with some compressed air, or run some trimmer line down through the drain hose.  Also a good idea to clean out the HVAC drain pipe as well. Reconnect and you are good to go.

The other important drains are located to the left and right of the battery tray in the hood.

Here's hoping a good charge on the battery helps.  Open the hood and  look up.  On either side is a rubber bumper and it is  adjustable.  You can twist them in and out to adjust the tension on the hood latch when the hood is closed.  Might  be they need to be turned in a tad to take some tension off the hood latch, and the actuator is pulling but not strong enough  to pop the hood.

Other than that, I would pull the electrical connector on the actuator and check it for both ground and voltage when the button is pushed.  Might also consider grounding the actuator and running a separate 12V supply wire to test it.

Possible that with the jolt from stalling, you busted a motor mount.  Does the fluid look like engine oil, or is it blackish and located on either side of the rear end?  Location  is important.  The motor mounts have hydraulic fluid in them and can leak.

I hate to say it....buy a Window Regulator from Porsche, or a vendor that sells Porsche OE Window Regulator.  Going cheap on this one is nothing but trouble.  Your OE window regulator lasted 19 years, so you want another one that will last another 19 years.  It is not a painful job to replace the window regulator, but with a cheap knockoff or "re-built" regulator, you will be replacing it again within a year.

I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything.  You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame.  It is all pretty straight forward from there.

The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators.  They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission.  They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators.  You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them.  Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here 

From what I remember on this issue is that the fuel filler neck has a magnetic reed valve very close to the top of the fuel filler neck and it has either fallen out of the plastic holder or it is faulty.  You have to remove the passenger side wheel liner to access the reed valve.   I'll try to find a picture of it.

Yes, you are correct on the actuator part number.  I don't see any advantage in replacing the entire lock mechanism unless it is corroded or stuck.  Usually some white lithium grease will help it operate freely.

Not the gas cap but the fuel filler door.  Good that you managed to find the emergency release cable.  Now do yourself a huge favor and pull the plastic piece covering the hood latch and relocate the cable to just behind the front bumper tow hook plug.  It fits right in there and the next time all you have to do is pop the tow hook plug and there is the cable.

Now from your description of problems, I think you should take a look at the hood release actuator.  It might be the source of both problems, horn beep, stuck hood latch and it not working from the lock buttons.  See Part #19 here in this parts diagram.  I think you should be able to hear it click while someone operates the button.  If not, then it is probably faulty.

Couple of ideas here 

I don't think I get it...the  hood looks like it is already out of the hood latch and sprung up.  Then you move the little red lever that is visible with your finger to the right to open the hood.  Am I missing something?

Just because you have fuel pressure at the rails doesn't mean you are getting full fuel flow.  A 99 C2 has a fuel filter and at your mileage it should have been replaced already.  Also agree on the CPS.  Both of these issues will not throw a CEL code because they are not emission related faults.  Might also consider the fuel pressure regulator.  If it is weak or stuck it will bleed off pressure when the engine is hot.

You mentioned two other things in your first post.  The K&N air filter removal.  Did you get a stock air filter box?

What type of custom muffler bypass?  Fister or Gundo, or something else entirely.