DBJoe996

Maybe contact these guys

1996-2018 Porsche 911 (996) Instrument Cluster Repair Service > Electronic Auto Part Repair Services for Instrument Clusters, Speedometers, Navigation Systems and similar modules. Download our catalogs

VDOREPAIR.COM

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<b>Models Covered: </b><br/>Porsche 911 ,996,<br/><br/>

I take it that trying to start it, it cranks but does not fire? Is that correct?  Or does it not crank?  Cranks but no fire is caused by the CPS - crank position sensor.  Does the tach needle bounce when you try to start it?

If no crank - ignition switch, bad starter, corroded Y-cable, clean all engine grounds

Huh.  My thoughts in this order...turn signal in the steering column, contacts need cleaning, the light switch, replace the electrical part of the light switch, and the electrical part of the ignition switch which is known to cause all kinds of gremlins.  You may even try pulling the headlight and use a multimeter to test the pins while turning on headlights and turn signals.  Electrical problems are tough to solve.

Did you check both the front and REAR left turn signal bulb?  Could be one or both.

Just a guess...but how about checking and cleaning the ground point for the headlights/turn signals?  Not sure where it is but there must be a common ground point somewhere in the frunk area, maybe under one of the covers next to the battery or near the brake master cylinder.

Look up at the top of this page.  Click on Documents.  There is a VIN lookup and Option Code decoder.

Good thread on all the option codes 

Although your question has been answered, if you are going to DIY then this is what you need 

“996 Torque Book” – Fastening Specifications for Porsche 911 (Type 996) Automobile | The Knowledge Gruppe

WWW.THEKNOWLEDGEGRUPPE.COM

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Fastener size, grade, assembly position and tightening torque. Lacking this publication, most technicians find themselves looking through pages of workshop manuals to search for fastener torque va…

42 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

I would also be looking at the ignition switch electrical section, a known weak point that causes all sorts of electrical issues when it goes bad.

This!

You replaced your MAF sensor....with what brand and type?  It must be OEM or a Bosch unit.

Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this.  You are correct.  2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing.  As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number.  If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible.  No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.

With all of the parts you have replaced, and if your throttle cable and TB exhibit smooth operation (not sticking through full open and closed), the DME/ECU controls the idle speed.  Reset your DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 minutes.  Make sure if your radio requires a code that you know it.  This will return the DME/ECU to default values vs learned values.

My key stopped working over 10 years ago.  Does not work to lock/unlock car.  New battery in key fob did nothing, however the key fob red light does blink.  It just doesn't communicate with the car.  I figure the key circuit board is broken based on what I have read.  Been using the manual key in the door lock ever since.  No problem.

20 year old key fobs are going to fail, mostly because the circuit board inside the key fob fails.  If you changed the battery inside the key and it stops working, more than likely the circuit board has broken.  Options? Use the manual key to open and start car.  Or go the $$$ route of buying and having new key(s) programmed to the car.  Dealer only on that one.

Post over here https://www.renntech.org/forum/239-lost-radio-codes/

A check engine light on simply means one of the parameters the ECU monitors was off, and it always records a code that tells you specifically what was wrong.  There are literally thousands of various codes that will throw the CEL.  Next time, read the code before you clear codes.  That code or codes will point you in the right direction.

Also, I would  get in touch with whomever did the LS3 conversion and ask them how they rigged the "fly-by-wire" throttle conversion.  There is going to be a lot of frankenstein parts involved with an LS3 conversion.  Just the fact the GM OBDII port didn't work but the Porsche OBDII port did is really questionable.  Did they somehow "marry" (connect) the Porsche ECU to a GM ECU?  How?

It would help to know what the sound sounds like.  Is it a squeal, thump, roar?  Have you lifted the engine lid and made an inspection?  It could be that the compressor clutch is heating up and dragging, so when you shut down and restart, it re-positions itself temporarily.

Why are you even driving/running the car with the AC compressor seized?  Even though the compressor clutch is disengaged, the clutch compressor bearings are still turning. You need to identify where the "noise"  is coming from.  A long handled screw driver or mechanics stethoscope placed against each turning component, pulley, will narrow down where the noise is coming from.  However, if the compressor is seized, that is more than likely the source.  You run the risk of having the compressor seize entirely and that will kill your serpentine belt.  Fix your AC compressor!

I have read many threads on using an aftermarket switch and it not working out.  Many have tried the VW/Audi switch and it does what yours is doing.  For the cost and the pain of replacement, go OEM.

Let's start here.  Here is the correct OEM part number for models up to 2003

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Nice job, but you ran a large risk; for your own safety in the future, disconnect the battery for 15-20 min. before doing something like this.

You are correct and normally I do.  Don't know why I didn't on this job since it involves disconnecting the air bag. I ran the engine so I could crank the steering wheel to get to the airbag bolts, and it all just kind went from there. Got lucky....but not a wise thing to do.

I wanted to document my project so it might help the next person.  Problem - horn honking when going over bumps.  Pulled B3 fuse until my new horn frame came in.  I noticed in some previous post they said use a T30 bit.  Mine is a 99 C2 four spoke steering wheel.  The correct bit is a T27 for the air bag bolts.  They were definitely tight so I bought a right angled tool. I ran the car and turned the steering wheel so I could easily access the two air bag bolts at 6 o'clock.  It was fairly easy.  I held on to the airbag and undid the bolts.  Turned off car and removed the key.  Gently lowered the airbag.  The yellow connector on the back of the air bag simply unplugs, pull it off and set the air bag aside.  The four bolts that hold the horn frame are 17mm and come right out.  A reverse of the procedure is all it took.  The air bag bolts must be in the back side of the horn frame, so I used some small sections of rubber hose to hold the bolts in place until I got the frame bolted in, then removed them and put air bag in place.  That was about it. The rubber bushings on the old horn frame were basically gone, thus the horn honking going over bumps.  I did not undo the battery and the air bag light did not come on after I was done.

How is your battery voltage? A lot of strange gremlins happen when the battery voltage is low.  Also strange gremlins when the electrical part of the ignition switch starts to go bad.  When you say the doors no longer lock...is that with the remote or putting the key in the door latch?  Do the doors lock if you use the console switch?

That part number has been upgraded (reason why yours broke) 99710102100

Do they go down all the way, or like about an 8 inch drop? Do the windows drop slightly when you pull the door handle?  My car has done this on the drivers side window.  Lock it and walk away. Come back to the car and the window had dropped about 8 inches.  I did replace the window regulator and the entire door latch mechanism w/microswitches with OE Porsche parts.  The car has never done the window drop again.  It is strange that both windows are doing it since there is no connection between the windows that would make them both drop. I would also give a thought to the window switches in the center console.

You had a lot of work done on the car at one time.  One thing to check is to make sure all the spark plugs are tight.  Any CEL?