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DBJoe996

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Posts posted by DBJoe996


  1. You are probably going to get several opinions on this one.  However, since you have to meet the stringent CA emissions requirements, and the cat pipe you are referring to has the pre/post O2 sensors, I would say that you need an OE or CARB certified cat as a replacement.  You might be able to find a low mileage used one at a junk yard...DC Autos.

    • Like 1

  2. Drain some coolant (not all, just a sample), put it in a glass jar and let it sit undisturbed.  Observe it and see if there is any separation of coolant and oil.  Do the same for an oil sample.  To firmly established whether your engine has D-chunked, a cylinder compression and leak down test on each cylinder needs to be done.  Inspect the spark plugs carefully for coloration and replace them.

     

    Synthetic oil is hygroscopic so it will absorb some moisture (humidity) from the air.  It is burned off when the engine reaches full operating temperature.  If the engine has not run and reached full operating temperature in a while, could just be some "steam" you released when you changed the oil.

     

    If in fact your engine has fully  D-chunked, it will run very badly and you will get misfire codes.


  3. Here is another forum thread with some good pictures and details

    RENNLIST.COM

    996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...

     


  4. It sounds to me from your description that the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not kicking in the bendix.  Bench testing is one thing.  A starter motor requires a tremendous amount of amperage to operate, thus the two circuits to make it happen.  One is the main lead (big heavy wire main lead) that spins up the starter motor, and then the smaller lead to the solenoid to kick in the bendix.  Are you familiar with the Y-cable?  This is the one that connects to the starter circuit from the main junction point in  the engine bay.  Notorious for failing from internal corrosion.  What is the voltage at the main junction box (+ jumper point) in the engine bay?


  5. Two thoughts come to mind since you are saying "oil pooling on the block".  I thought you were talking about oil inside the plenum.  Have you checked your oil filler tube for cracks?  There is also the AOS crossover line that goes from the AOS to Bank 2 that becomes very brittle from heat and then cracks.  Both of these can cause rough running.  Maybe you should consider having your engine and intake smoke tested.


  6. A failed AOS will dump a bunch of oil in the plenum and it is very difficult to get it all out.  It pools in the nooks and crannies of the intake plenum, thus the first sign of AOS failure is exhaust smoke..think like a gigantic smoke screen behind the car.  Unless you think the new AOS has failed (which happens...BTW did you put in an original Porsche OE AOS?), I would just monitor this for awhile.  Watch your oil level carefully.


  7. You say you have a new battery.  Why did you put in a new battery?  Was the old one giving you trouble?  What size new battery and how many reserve amps?

    It sounds to me to be just like when the starter gets heat soaked and the solenoid doesn't kick it.  Does the starter motor run when you try to start it, and just not engage the bendix gear to the flywheel?

    It is okay to check the voltage drop between the battery and the engine bay connection with a multimeter.  However, when you start disconnecting things to check for corrosion or loose connections, always disconnect the negative lead on the battery first.

    Usually one of the first culprits in this type of situation is the electrical part of the ignition switch.  You might want to replace it first before doing other things.

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