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DBJoe996

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Posts posted by DBJoe996


  1. My 99 C2 3.4L engine is bone stock.  I do my own oil changes.   I pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight, then slightly jack  up the left rear of the car so the remaining oil that pools in the sump drains out.  Put in drain plug.  Fill oil filter with oil and install.  Then I put in 10.25 quarts of oil, Liqui-Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf High Tech.  Comes in a 5.28 U.S. Quart size (5 L) bottle.  I've done this so many times over the years.  I always end up right on the full mark before starting the engine.  I don't burn off much oil between oil changes. My owners manual says the capacity w/filter is 8.7QT/8.25 L.  I find I need more to be at the high mark on the dipstick.  The manual also says that the difference between the high and low mark on the dipstick is 1.6 QTS/1.5L.

     

    I  always keep mine near the high mark.  More oil, more oil and  cooling capacity.  I do not track or run the car hard so I'm not sloshing the oil around.  145K miles, 6 month oil changes, so I must be doing something right.


  2. 14 hours ago, sprout99 said:

    Mine is leaking from the damaged suction pipe 

    Next to front jacking point. 

     

    Is swapping pipe easy? 

     

    Thanks Ian 

    No, it is not easy.  First step is to vacuum/remove all remaining refrigerant. This requires a special machine. Second, you will need to remove the  front bumper, wheel, wheel liner and underbody panels.  You could have an AC shop do the first step, then DIY the pipe replacement, then go back to the AC  shop for a refrigerant recharge.


  3. I do my own oil/filter changes.  I did run Mobil 1 0W-40 for a long time.  Last oil change I changed over to Liqui-Moly Leichtlauf SAE 5W-40 and my engine is so much happier.  Seems to run better (seat of the pants) and quieter.  The reason was I am at 146K mileage and a bit heavier weight oil seems necessary.  It is on the approved Porsche list for our cars.  Might ask the dealer about it.  I think the Porsche oil released for our cars is a 5W-50.


  4. It sounds like you have no oil pressure.  Do not run your engine!  You need to investigate your engine and lack of oil pressure.  What type of oil are you running? When did you last do an oil change? Have you manually pulled the dipstick to check  your oil level? What type of oil filter are you running?  Have you done anything to your engine lately?  This does not sound like a problem with your sender unit....it sounds like your engine is lacking any oil pressure and it will seize if you run it again, or spin the crank bearings, or seize a piston in the cylinder.  You must do everything  you can to find out what is wrong before running the engine again.  Maybe the oil pump hex drive has broken.  Maybe the oil pressure relief valve is stuck.  Maybe your oil filter is clogged.  Maybe your oil pickup tube in the oil sump is clogged with debris.


  5. Are you sure about the coolant level?  Did you open the cap and check?  I agree with the suggestion to replace the coolant expansion tank level sensor.  It is outside the coolant tank so you won't lose any coolant.  215F is pretty darn high.  How are you getting the car that hot?  Are your radiator fans working?  Has the thermostat ever been replaced?  What mix is your coolant and is it pink (the new type coolant)?


  6. Besides all  the other microswitches external and internal to the door latch mechanism, there is one microswitch that sits on the top of the door handle hinge that signals when the door handle is pulled.  You have to pull the door card off to get to it.  Some pretty good information here

    RENNLIST.COM

    996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...

     


  7. What?  You are using a wire to ground the starter solenoid and it works to start the motor?  Something seems wrong with that.  The starter is grounded by virtue that it is bolted to the engine block, which is grounded by a wire near the rear passenger wheel well. There is no separate ground for the solenoid to starter because the solenoid is bolted to the starter.  Sorry, something here doesn't make sense.


  8. My understanding is that it is glued on and requires a lot of force to  pull it off.  You could put the base in a vise and pull very very hard to remove.  If you have to cut it away, you will destroy it.  Might check on  replacement cost of the handle.  For instance, last time I checked, the  center console leather lid was $700.  Why are you doing this?


  9. There are multiple functions of the temp gauge light, so to say it came on it could be low coolant level.  Check your owners manual for the various conditions that set off the temp gauge light.  If the rad fans are operational, then like JFP said, you could have an air pocket.  Make sure your coolant level in the expansion tank is full, then manually lift the wire bail thing on the expansion tank and drive several heat/cool cycles to bleed out any air.  Turn on the heater full blast as well.  That will cycle coolant through the heater core as well.

    • Like 1

  10. Take a C-clamp and push the back bushing in so it is flush with the bracket.  If it doesn't move into a flush position it will be difficult or next to impossible to get it in.  If I remember how I did it, hold the alternator up and get the left bolt started but not tight.  Then rotate the alternator to the right and it will/should drop right in place.  Do not hammer on the bracket, it will break easily.

     

    When you get the long right bolt in and torque it down, you will hear/feel a pop as the bushing moves into place.


  11. Please come back and let us know how it worked out.  Sorry for your pain and agony on this one.  Replacing the AOS  is a major PITA job even if everything goes right.  It is an extremely difficult job.  I still question that AOS but time will tell whether it is right or not.  If it does leak or show signs of a massive vacuum leak, then you will know.  I took a flashlight and tried to see if I could get a picture of my replacement AOS from underneath to see how my seal seated  but no go on that one.  Best of luck and hope it works out.


  12. Hate to say it but it is probably your drivers side door latch mechanism.  There are internal microswitches that create the exact symptoms that you have.   I recently had to replace my drivers side door latch mechanism because it was getting to the point the door would not unlock with the key.  But I figured it was now 21 years old, so I replaced with a new OE Porsche door latch mechanism.  Now works perfectly.

     

    That being said, there is another microswitch on the door handle that controls the window drop when opening the door with the outside handle.  Also well known to go bad and fairly easy to replace once the door card is off.  I think I would start there.

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