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DBJoe996

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Posts posted by DBJoe996


  1. First, I would not run the engine without the belt. Would it be possible for you to have someone assist you so that you can listen in the engine compartment to see if you can isolate where the chirp is coming from? I'm leaning towards throttle body, air box or something along the intake system since it only happens on start up or goosing the throttle. Or maybe a motor mount...exhaust bracket...when ever the motor rocks. Might help to have someone goose the throttle while you listen in the engine compartment.


  2. So glad to hear you got things fixed up right. There are all sorts of sensitive vulnerable things under there! Would suggest NOT backing over any more footpath dividers. Since the car is lower than most, it requires careful attention in parking lots...those concrete parking curbs can do some real damage. You did learn a little bit about your car and now have some valuable experience..and the car turned out okay...so smile and drive!


  3. Oil brand and oil weight has been debated long and hard on this forum. Here is the deal for me - it is your car, you can run whatever brand oil, oil weight, tires, antifreeze/mix, gas, air filter, etc. you want...it is your choice. Porsche has been making 911's for 54 years, testing, racing, building an outstanding reputation for quality, performance and endurance. My point being that why would you second guess Porsche engineers and what is recommended versus based upon "some folks" opinion's they are wrong. For me, it is Mobil 1. But hey, after 122,000 miles and no problems maybe I should experiment and figure out something better than the engineers recommended oil. Hmmm..on second thought, I don't feel like experimenting with a $30,000 engine.

    911 PORSCHE approved oil list.pdf


  4. Stop and think! How could a brilliant car production company, after engineering, manufacturing, testing, and with such a long history of production vehicles, valued, envied, sought after, loved, recommend a oil product for their engineering marvel, and be so wrong that what they recommend actually destroys their product?? Have some guts. Porsche recommends Mobil 1. Use Mobil 1. Forget about daft "friends" who know more than Porsche. I live in Central Florida. I run Mobil 1. Works great....end of story.


  5. It will be interesting to see what someone else says. Why do you not want to believe the cylinder head ports are clogged? How many miles do you have? Mine have to be (I figure after 122,000 miles), the Secondary Air Injection CEL pops up all the time and I carry an inexpensive OBDII reader in the console, read the codes (always the same), erase and forget about it. The SAI system is so the car can pass emission testing at startup, and doesn't do anything but pump air into the engine exhaust mix to fool the testing equipment with a diluted mix. I figure my routine is to read/delete the codes when they pop up until one day I have to pull the engine, fix all kinds of stuff and probably tackle this minor issue at that time. Some people have even (gasp!!) removed the bulb from the CEL to stop the annoyance regarding SAI CEL's all the time. Not me...but just saying...


  6. Is it only the driver's door? Have you tried the passenger door to see if it happens when you open it? Radio on or off? The reason for asking is that if it is isolated to only the driver's door, then you need to check the wiring and grounding on that door only....if it does it for any electrical draw, the passenger door, overhead lights, trunk, etc., then it might be related to radio wiring, grounding and something there that will make you have to dig deeper. It might be one of the micro-switches in the door when energized, and wet, causes a quick short to ground. Since you have the door panel removed, maybe disconnecting one wire at a time on the speaker and figuring out if it is the + or - connected (or maybe only both) will lead you to a solution.


  7. There was another thread about a similar issue here, at least throwing some of the same codes:

    http://www.renntech....-start-misfire/

    Sounds like your plan is a good one and you are on track. I was wondering...how well did you clean the MAF and have you changed/checked your air filter? Are you running stock or aftermarket air cleaner? The MAF really comes into play at 4000 RPM and above, although it would affect all cylinders. Maybe the live run with your Durametric will give you some further clues. I would go ahead and run the Techron as well, looks like with the low mileage the car doesn't get much daily use and therefore the injectors might be a bit gummed up with old fuel.


  8. P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

    Since the cylinders where the misfires are detected are on opposite sides, I suspect it is not one of the catalytic converters going bad (could be both but not probable). I would start again where you left off...plugs, coils, connectors on the affected cylinders, change them out (again) or swap them and see if the errors change to a different cylinder. That might help you isolate the problem to a specific coil pack. Plugs gapped correctly? All the same and correct type? Even the smallest problem with the plug or coil pack (carbon trace) could affect the high RPM spark and throw a error code. When was the last time you ran some Techron through it? Sorry....mainly guessing at this point. A Durametric or the dealer might be worth a visit...


  9. Had to bump the fall season oil change/filter up the list with the wife :) (one beer job) and I have a very tiny leak of coolant from the AOS regions <_< (maybe a 3 beer job)...so those will have to come first, but I'm putting this on the list for the very near future because I think it would be cool to have it working again. I will certainly post the results.

    Cheers :cheers:

    Oh, and anyway, will be at the Daytona Beach Speedway Track for the PCA/Porsche Club Daytona Oktoberfest all Porsche all weekend racing event with my wife, chairs and cooler, so even the oil/filter change will be a bit postponed. Went there today during lunch and there are lots of cool cars in the garage area and activities already going...can't wait! I was so proud of my car.....and my wife...she just loves these events as well.


  10. One thing I have also wondered about is I have one key with a full key head remote w/transponder pill and another that is just only a key...no key head and no transponder pill. The second key is just the blade and small gray piece of plastic solid key head (so small it is very unlikely to contain a pill). They both work to lock/unlock (manually), arm/disarm the alarm and start the car. I've used both and there is no difference that I have ever noticed. Why is this?

    I looked at those key heads w/circuit board from Suncoast and for $129.95 I'm considering getting one to fix my remote. Thanks for the suggestions.


  11. My key fob stopped working 2 years ago. Did the same thing...intermittently working, flashing, blah blah, it finally gave up the ghost and stopped working altogether. It is the circuit board in the key fob. Not being interested in spending the money to replace the key fob and reprogram, I just use the key, lock/unlock the door and all is well. Been doing that for quite a long time now. No problems and the alarm is also set this way, so nothing to worry about. You're going to have to "invest" in a new key fob with the programming code (don't buy one off EBay), visit your dealer and have them set it up again. Then you can wait another 3-4 years before it craps out again...repeat and repeat.


  12. Comment - you haven't even purchased the car and already you are worried about something that may or may not ever happen! There are many of us, me included, that have the original engine and IMS and have logged over 120,000 miles with not even a blip of a problem. No car is perfect and everything will fail eventually. I've had many other cars and they have all broken at some point. It is wise to consider this issue, but to make your decision only on that particular problem, and probably never going to happen problem, you are missing the true joy of owning/driving a Porsche. If from day one you cannot enjoy this experience, then forget it and pass. Sure, something might happen, just as in life stuff happens, but are you going to miss out if all you can do is focus on "what might happen." It's a car.....it will need some attention. Buy the car, drive it with complete abandon, enjoy every minute of ownership, feel the pride, heritage, engineering marvel, quality of build and the way you feel in it when you are driving, but please don't sit in your chair and worry that it's going to blow at any minute! It was serviced at a Porshce Dealer and sounds like it has been well maintained. Change the oil and filter as a precaution and go out and drive one of the best cars in the world! There is no substitute........


  13. New coolant level sensor bad? Connected wrong? I really like the other ideas here as well. Read one thread on here about the older style coolant tank sloshing during spirited driving and causing the light to blink. That would indicate a low coolant level false alarm. I did my water pump/thermostat, filled the coolant tank, burped the system, ran the engine, refilled the coolant tank to correct level, drove about thirty miles and the coolant light was flashing like that, checked the coolant level again and had to add a lot more coolant. I had to do that about 3 times over. These are notorious for difficulty in "burping" out the air and finally getting the correct coolant level. If all else fails and the coolant level is correct in the tank, you might try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, reconnect and then drive and see if the coolant light stays off. How do you know the engine compartment fan works? Mine never runs even when it is 98 or more. I've only ever heard the fan run once, so maybe Loren's suggestion is absolutely on the right track..the engine compartment temp sensor is laying on the engine.


  14. Describe the blinking...it blinks differently for different reasons. That will help with the diagnoses.

    "Four functions of the coolant warning light:

    1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)

    2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)

    3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right

    4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right

    Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously."


  15. I had the same thing happen to that connector piece. After inspecting the new piece, I decided that this little plastic connector was a weak link that was just going to blow again. With engine heat/vibration and coolant heat constantly hitting that piece of plastic connector pipe, I went for a longer term solution. What I did was find a perfect fit brass hose connector at the auto parts store, used SS worm clamps, snipped off the two hose bibs on the plastic piece so I could use it as a bracket, ran a SS bolt with locking nut through the plastic piece and then just simply used a nylon tie to hold the pipe/brass connector to the bracket/bolt. Did all this for <$5 and a one beer job. Works perfect and I never have to worry about that fitting again.

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