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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. There was another thread about a similar issue here, at least throwing some of the same codes:


    Sounds like your plan is a good one and you are on track. I was wondering...how well did you clean the MAF and have you changed/checked your air filter? Are you running stock or aftermarket air cleaner? The MAF really comes into play at 4000 RPM and above, although it would affect all cylinders. Maybe the live run with your Durametric will give you some further clues. I would go ahead and run the Techron as well, looks like with the low mileage the car doesn't get much daily use and therefore the injectors might be a bit gummed up with old fuel.

  2. P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

    Since the cylinders where the misfires are detected are on opposite sides, I suspect it is not one of the catalytic converters going bad (could be both but not probable). I would start again where you left off...plugs, coils, connectors on the affected cylinders, change them out (again) or swap them and see if the errors change to a different cylinder. That might help you isolate the problem to a specific coil pack. Plugs gapped correctly? All the same and correct type? Even the smallest problem with the plug or coil pack (carbon trace) could affect the high RPM spark and throw a error code. When was the last time you ran some Techron through it? Sorry....mainly guessing at this point. A Durametric or the dealer might be worth a visit...

  3. Had to bump the fall season oil change/filter up the list with the wife :) (one beer job) and I have a very tiny leak of coolant from the AOS regions <_< (maybe a 3 beer job)...so those will have to come first, but I'm putting this on the list for the very near future because I think it would be cool to have it working again. I will certainly post the results.

    Cheers :cheers:

    Oh, and anyway, will be at the Daytona Beach Speedway Track for the PCA/Porsche Club Daytona Oktoberfest all Porsche all weekend racing event with my wife, chairs and cooler, so even the oil/filter change will be a bit postponed. Went there today during lunch and there are lots of cool cars in the garage area and activities already going...can't wait! I was so proud of my car.....and my wife...she just loves these events as well.

  4. One thing I have also wondered about is I have one key with a full key head remote w/transponder pill and another that is just only a key...no key head and no transponder pill. The second key is just the blade and small gray piece of plastic solid key head (so small it is very unlikely to contain a pill). They both work to lock/unlock (manually), arm/disarm the alarm and start the car. I've used both and there is no difference that I have ever noticed. Why is this?

    I looked at those key heads w/circuit board from Suncoast and for $129.95 I'm considering getting one to fix my remote. Thanks for the suggestions.

  5. My key fob stopped working 2 years ago. Did the same thing...intermittently working, flashing, blah blah, it finally gave up the ghost and stopped working altogether. It is the circuit board in the key fob. Not being interested in spending the money to replace the key fob and reprogram, I just use the key, lock/unlock the door and all is well. Been doing that for quite a long time now. No problems and the alarm is also set this way, so nothing to worry about. You're going to have to "invest" in a new key fob with the programming code (don't buy one off EBay), visit your dealer and have them set it up again. Then you can wait another 3-4 years before it craps out again...repeat and repeat.

  6. Comment - you haven't even purchased the car and already you are worried about something that may or may not ever happen! There are many of us, me included, that have the original engine and IMS and have logged over 120,000 miles with not even a blip of a problem. No car is perfect and everything will fail eventually. I've had many other cars and they have all broken at some point. It is wise to consider this issue, but to make your decision only on that particular problem, and probably never going to happen problem, you are missing the true joy of owning/driving a Porsche. If from day one you cannot enjoy this experience, then forget it and pass. Sure, something might happen, just as in life stuff happens, but are you going to miss out if all you can do is focus on "what might happen." It's a car.....it will need some attention. Buy the car, drive it with complete abandon, enjoy every minute of ownership, feel the pride, heritage, engineering marvel, quality of build and the way you feel in it when you are driving, but please don't sit in your chair and worry that it's going to blow at any minute! It was serviced at a Porshce Dealer and sounds like it has been well maintained. Change the oil and filter as a precaution and go out and drive one of the best cars in the world! There is no substitute........

  7. New coolant level sensor bad? Connected wrong? I really like the other ideas here as well. Read one thread on here about the older style coolant tank sloshing during spirited driving and causing the light to blink. That would indicate a low coolant level false alarm. I did my water pump/thermostat, filled the coolant tank, burped the system, ran the engine, refilled the coolant tank to correct level, drove about thirty miles and the coolant light was flashing like that, checked the coolant level again and had to add a lot more coolant. I had to do that about 3 times over. These are notorious for difficulty in "burping" out the air and finally getting the correct coolant level. If all else fails and the coolant level is correct in the tank, you might try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, reconnect and then drive and see if the coolant light stays off. How do you know the engine compartment fan works? Mine never runs even when it is 98 or more. I've only ever heard the fan run once, so maybe Loren's suggestion is absolutely on the right track..the engine compartment temp sensor is laying on the engine.

  8. Describe the blinking...it blinks differently for different reasons. That will help with the diagnoses.

    "Four functions of the coolant warning light:

    1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)

    2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)

    3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right

    4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right

    Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously."

  9. I had the same thing happen to that connector piece. After inspecting the new piece, I decided that this little plastic connector was a weak link that was just going to blow again. With engine heat/vibration and coolant heat constantly hitting that piece of plastic connector pipe, I went for a longer term solution. What I did was find a perfect fit brass hose connector at the auto parts store, used SS worm clamps, snipped off the two hose bibs on the plastic piece so I could use it as a bracket, ran a SS bolt with locking nut through the plastic piece and then just simply used a nylon tie to hold the pipe/brass connector to the bracket/bolt. Did all this for <$5 and a one beer job. Works perfect and I never have to worry about that fitting again.

  10. Remember when you are dealing with tires that not only are you dealing with the size (18"), width of the wheel (10"), but also the width to sidewall ratio 265/35. A wider tire with less sidewall 295/30, although looking "cooler" because of the width, could give you a bone jarring ride and make your wheels more suspectible to curb rash, breakage, heat and all types of other stresses, including nasty unpredictable stresses on your suspension components. Another 10-15 mm may not seem like much, but it could make a huge difference all the way around with a wider tire and reduced sidewall height. IMHO a lot would depend on your driving (DD, weekender, track) and area where you live (manholes, potholes and other tire destroyers). My 99 daily driver is very happy with 225/40/18" front and 265/35/18" rear setup. I would rather be more "GO" than "SHOW" myself...but that's just me. And, I don't want to argue that a wider tire will give you more go...I've yet to ever break them loose on a dry takeoff or failed to take a curve at more than twice the recommended speed. Seems like quite a gamble at $300+ per tire to experiment, unless you've got some money to burn and can live with the expense of changing them out if they don't work out. Hopefully other posters will weigh in.........

    • Upvote 1

  11. Sometimes when I have run into this type of trouble I go to the nearest auto parts store. They have bearing pullers that they "loan" for a nominal fee, basically they rent them to you. I would also contact LN engineering immediately and have them send a replacement. Plus I would ask them for some technical advice...perhaps there is something you are not doing correctly that would cause this to be more difficult than it should be.

  12. Thanks VX700. Looks like we are of like mind on both the minor scrapes of life with our cars, and the FabSpeed's. Enjoyed the video posts you put on sport exhausts thread, and since you have them, you know what I mean about the "snarl". Love my FabSpeed exhaust system, just makes that daily drive just that much more thrilling! BTW - to massage that dent only cost me $75. Knowing I wouldn't see that everytime I washed/looked at the car = priceless. You take care and love the drive!

  13. Thanks! You know how we always have reservations/fears about having repairs done...just wanted to let you know this worked better than I ever thought. I knew I could not just look at that dent forevermore. I blasted out of there, rolled down the windows and listened to that unforgettable flat six siren of an engine snarl on up the hill and away, all the while with the biggest smile on my face. I know we were both really happy and it showed. Happy motoring!

  14. Ever had one of those days? Wife ran over something with the Mini...checked the tires last night and this morning. Noticed the tires needed a bit of air, so dragged out the air compressor in the garage and went about bringing it all up to spec. While maneuvering between the cars in the garage and turning I banged the air compressor into the front left fender of the Porshce! My heart skipped a couple of beats! Boy ohh boy did I put a dent in it. I thought 120,000 miles, no door dings and then I do something really stupid like this. My heart dropped and I knew this might not be a good day. It had a pretty good dent, but luckily no paint scrape. Got on the phone to the best body shop around and said I may have the perfect candidate for the paintless dent removal process. They told me to get in touch with the Dent Ranger here locally. Gave him a call and met him at 10:30.

    What he did was pure magic! 20 minutes later, no scratches, no dent...all polished out. There must have been tears in my eyes when we inspected the fender and I realized there wasn't a mark or any evidence of that dent whatsoever. This is a brilliant technique, works, and the guy was awesome. My day went from depression to joyful. Highly recommend this to anyone. If you are in the Daytona Beach area...he is the Dent Ranger at the Farmers Market. Image post repair and I would lay a bet that no one could ever tell what happened.


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