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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. You have removed the nuts from the motor mounts so you can drop the engine (with support) down to the cross-member...right?  You have got to remove or disconnect most of the hoses and lines on that side of the engine in order to get the intake out.  Even the AOS coolant hose.  This is an extremely complex, intrusive and tedious job.   I pulled my entire rear bumper and heat shields on both sides so I would not damage them lowering the engine down to the crossmember.  The mufflers on either side would have bowed out the heat shields and bumper and probably, if not done, would have resulted in permanent damage.  In a word, take out everything on that side. Having the secondary air system out helps.  Having the alternator out helps.

  2. Aside from a cracked head (which you do not want), there are really only two other places where coolant and oil can mix.  One is the air oil separator (AOS) and the other is the heat exchanger on Bank 2.  It is generally that oil gets into the coolant since it is at a much higher pressure.  Have you checked your coolant tank for oil?  Use a turkey baster and remove some of the coolant and put it in a glass jar.  Oil and water will separate and you can see it. The old coolant was green and the new coolant is pink.  What does it look like in your coolant tank? Never a good idea to just let the car sit and idle.  Start and drive.  Plan a drive of 20-30 minutes at operating temperature (180+) and then check the oil filler cap.  You can also drop just your oil filter and put that oil in a glass jar and see if it separates.  In my opinion, it is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil after 2500 miles.

  3. Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off.  If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed.  And one quart low on oil?  When was the last oil change and how many miles on  the oil change?  It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage.  As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core.  Are you losing any coolant?

    • Upvote 1
  4. All I can tell you is the old original Porsche coolant was green, and the new Porsche coolant is pink.  However, that being said, they (the Porsche coolants) are compatible with each other so there is no need to panic and drain the entire system.  You can drive the car, it will be okay.  You are putting Porsche coolant in your car and that is good.  Maybe, depending on your mileage, you will have to replace your water pump soon so then you can change it out to the new Porsche pink coolant.

  5. More than likely you got a brand new motor.  Porsche did not "reman" engines, they simply replaced them. If it was done by a Porsche dealer under warranty, they only use Porsche parts, like a motor.  I forget what the AT stands for in German, but AT is a replacement motor.  From my reading, Porsche did not take failed motors and remanufactured them, particularly if it had total catastrophic internal failure such as with the IMS bearing.  It is a bit confusing, but I would consider your good fortune in having a new engine.

  6. Why in the world would you want that thing sitting on your dash?  Why is the digital speed shown not sufficient?  Does the OBDII (onboard diagnostic port) even provide speed?  Way before I would send a Chinese company $$ I would really think about this.  Also, no shipping until Feb 15 because the factory and warehouse are shut down due to coronavirus.


  7. 22 hours ago, Tim W said:

    Sorry if this is a dumb question but I am a Porsche novice (but learning).  When I turn off the ignition switch and remove key the radio and dashboard indicators (clock, temperature, speedo etc.) stay on even after opening and closing drivers door.  Is this normal?  Thx 

    (2005 C4S)

    Completely normal.  To check, just do what you doing and go back to the car after several minutes.  The cluster will be off.

  8. The only fan under the dash on the passenger side is the HVAC system fan.  Does the noise change when you increase/decrease the fan speed?  Have you checked the cabin air filter for debris?  The HVAC system fan is always on with ignition on unless you hold the decrease fan speed button until it shuts off.  The next time you start up again the fan will be on again.

  9. You are probably going to get several opinions on this one.  However, since you have to meet the stringent CA emissions requirements, and the cat pipe you are referring to has the pre/post O2 sensors, I would say that you need an OE or CARB certified cat as a replacement.  You might be able to find a low mileage used one at a junk yard...DC Autos.

    • Like 1
  10. Drain some coolant (not all, just a sample), put it in a glass jar and let it sit undisturbed.  Observe it and see if there is any separation of coolant and oil.  Do the same for an oil sample.  To firmly established whether your engine has D-chunked, a cylinder compression and leak down test on each cylinder needs to be done.  Inspect the spark plugs carefully for coloration and replace them.


    Synthetic oil is hygroscopic so it will absorb some moisture (humidity) from the air.  It is burned off when the engine reaches full operating temperature.  If the engine has not run and reached full operating temperature in a while, could just be some "steam" you released when you changed the oil.


    If in fact your engine has fully  D-chunked, it will run very badly and you will get misfire codes.

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