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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. I feel for you.  I'm normally over on the 996 forum but this is purely a mechanical problem.  Since the coil pack is mostly retained by the tight fit in the spark plug hole, and since you are mostly concerned about it vibrating loose, I would grind the bolt part flush with the flat brass insert with a Dremel grinding disc (small enough to do the job), then use a dab of some silicone glue on the brass insert to hold the coil pack.  It is amazing how well it holds, and is completely removable the next time.  There are two bolts that hold in the coil pack, so how is the other coil pack bolt?

  2. You can test the ICV by removing it from the throttle  body and cycling it with a 9V battery.  It should move smoothly and not bind.  Make sure to clean all the gunk and carbon from the rotating valve body inside the ICV.

    Since you replaced the air filter with a stock box, reset the DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery lead for 30 minutes, then  reconnect and go for a 20+ minute drive to allow the DME to re-establish sensor values.

  3. What did they fill it with?  Oil type and weight such as 0W-40?  The sensor for the engine bay fan is located between the intake runners on the top passenger side of engine.  There is a rubber grommet that it fits into.  If it falls out, it rests against the engine and when hot, will make the fan run.  How is your coolant level?  Did they vacuum fill the system?  Have you tried "burping" the coolant system by manually lifting the bale wire on the coolant tank?

  4. P0300 is a generic code for misfires.  P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting.  I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails.  There is a valve just for that purpose.  Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down.  That will test your fuel pressure regulator.  The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel.  When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.

    • Like 1

  5. Welcome to the world of older 996's.  Mine is a 99 (made in 98) so I am familiar with the foam issue.  Been there, done that.

    You have three options:

    1) Live with it.  Eventually it will stop.  When mine did this, I took a shop vac, put the fan on high, and started cleaning it up.  Tweezers help pull out the bigger pieces. I did this several times over a span of about 6 months, and then it stopped.  Been over 8 years since I have noticed any foam.  Thing is I have noticed no difference in the heating and cooling.  Still works great.

    2) There is a method/procedure for entering the air box by removing the heater core from outside the cabin.  This is complicated and some parts need to be cut, and it only gives you access to one of the flaps (there are three).  Some say this works, but for me it is just not worth the hassle.

    3) Remove the entire dash and all electrical connections to be able to remove the air box.  The air box is sealed so you will have to find a way to cut it open so you can put it back together.  You then can replace the flap door foam with new foam (not a good idea) or use metal duct tape, or fashion new flap panels from metal.  You could replace the air box ($$$) but after a few years it will only start doing it again.  There is a lot that can go wrong with removing the entire dash.  Again, just not worth the risk or hassle.


    As I stated, once my foam stopped coming out, I have noticed no change in how the AC and heat work.  Nice and cold on warm days, and nice and warm on cold days.

  6. For #2, open sun roof and carefully pour some water in the front rail area.  It should drain out just behind the front wheel.  I believe to access the bottom of the drain you would have to  remove the wheel liner.

    For #3 and 5 just look in the bottom of the areas adjacent to the battery tray.  You will see the black rubber drain holes in the bottom of those areas.  Just make sure the drain holes are not plugged by leaves and debris.  You can either clean up everything with a shop vac or run some weed whacker line down the holes to make sure they are clear.

  7. Sorry...not possible to bypass.  The immobilizer is integral to both the ECU and ignition circuits.  Simply put, the car will not work/start without the immobilizer.  If it is not working properly, then you need to check with ECU Doctors.  For the front trunk, there is an emergency release cable under the passenger headlight.  Hopefully you have already done the smart thing and relocated the emergency release cable from underneath the passenger headlight to just inside the front tow hook plug on the front bumper.  If not then you have to remove the passenger wheel and wheel liner to locate the release cable to open the trunk.


    Just to add...you need to determine HOW your immobilizer got wet.  Have you checked all your drains and cleared them of debris?


    In the end, if the immobilizer is so corroded it does not work, then you are stuck buying a new one from Porsche and having it programmed to your car and keys.  Think $$$$

  8. 3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

    Just be aware of two points:


    1. You are disabling a federally mandated safety item; in many states that is grounds for failing the car at its annual inspection.
    2. Your insurance company can play games with you if you have an accident such as rear ending someone of bumping into an inanimate object.  You purposely disabled a mandated safety feature designed to prevent such things, you could end up on the hook for all the damage.

    I have to totally agree +2

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