DBJoe996

Where are you coming up with those part numbers?

More than likely you got a brand new motor.  Porsche did not "reman" engines, they simply replaced them. If it was done by a Porsche dealer under warranty, they only use Porsche parts, like a motor.  I forget what the AT stands for in German, but AT is a replacement motor.  From my reading, Porsche did not take failed motors and remanufactured them, particularly if it had total catastrophic internal failure such as with the IMS bearing.  It is a bit confusing, but I would consider your good fortune in having a new engine.

I am guessing you need a new passenger door latch mechanism.  One of the many microswitches built into the door latch mechanism is faulty.  I had some trouble with my drivers side door latch mechanism (not unlocking, not opening, repeatedly had to lock/unlock, window not dropping).  I replaced the entire door latch mechanism and now everything works perfectly.

Why in the world would you want that thing sitting on your dash?  Why is the digital speed shown not sufficient?  Does the OBDII (onboard diagnostic port) even provide speed?  Way before I would send a Chinese company $$ I would really think about this.  Also, no shipping until Feb 15 because the factory and warehouse are shut down due to coronavirus.

Car HUD Head Up Display OBD2 II EUOBD Overspeed Warning System Projector Windshield Auto Electronic Voltage Alarm

WWW.DMPCARDESIGN.COM

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22 hours ago, Tim W said:

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I am a Porsche novice (but learning).  When I turn off the ignition switch and remove key the radio and dashboard indicators (clock, temperature, speedo etc.) stay on even after opening and closing drivers door.  Is this normal?  Thx 

(2005 C4S)

Completely normal.  To check, just do what you doing and go back to the car after several minutes.  The cluster will be off.

^^Correct.  The battery vent tube for the old lead-acid batteries.  If you have upgraded to an AGM battery, the vent tube is not necessary.

The only fan under the dash on the passenger side is the HVAC system fan.  Does the noise change when you increase/decrease the fan speed?  Have you checked the cabin air filter for debris?  The HVAC system fan is always on with ignition on unless you hold the decrease fan speed button until it shuts off.  The next time you start up again the fan will be on again.

You are probably going to get several opinions on this one.  However, since you have to meet the stringent CA emissions requirements, and the cat pipe you are referring to has the pre/post O2 sensors, I would say that you need an OE or CARB certified cat as a replacement.  You might be able to find a low mileage used one at a junk yard...DC Autos.

Drain some coolant (not all, just a sample), put it in a glass jar and let it sit undisturbed.  Observe it and see if there is any separation of coolant and oil.  Do the same for an oil sample.  To firmly established whether your engine has D-chunked, a cylinder compression and leak down test on each cylinder needs to be done.  Inspect the spark plugs carefully for coloration and replace them.

Synthetic oil is hygroscopic so it will absorb some moisture (humidity) from the air.  It is burned off when the engine reaches full operating temperature.  If the engine has not run and reached full operating temperature in a while, could just be some "steam" you released when you changed the oil.

If in fact your engine has fully  D-chunked, it will run very badly and you will get misfire codes.

Get a passenger.  Put a cell phone in video mode and run it all over the dash and underneath while driving.  Pay particular attention to the A-pillar on the passenger side.

You might try this for the service manual http://audipages.com/911/wsm/

Common cause for "it cranks but no start" is the CPS, crank position sensor.  Does your tach needle bounce when you try to start?  Also, check fuses/relays for the fuel pump.

Go to a Porsche dealer and buy a new filter canister and filter.  They are selling them for less than $30 now.  Do not run your engine with the bypass valve, which belongs in the bottom of the filter canister, removed.  The oil filter will not function properly and will float in the filter canister allowing unfiltered oil to circulate through your engine.

Here is another forum thread with some good pictures and details

Have you tried an e-gas calibration?  Turn on ignition to ON (not start).  Wait 60 seconds.  You should hear some whirring noise from the engine bay as the Throttle Body runs through a calibration cycle.  Turn ignition off, then start as normal.

The second thing that comes to mind is the change over in the resonance flap.

How about #3 here 

There is a vacuum line to the brake booster right behind the firewall.  Have you checked that?  Might be a bad seal or something.  See #10 here 

Which is it? Over on Rennlist you posted P0491 and P0492 drive while troubleshooting?

I don't know if it will help, but here is the CR 220 manual

From my understanding, cars are made like that.  My digital and analog speedometer is consistently exactly 4 MPH faster than actual road speed.  Confirmed by many roadside radars.  I just adapt.

Nothing in the oil.  Oil is oil.  One bottle of Techron in the gas tank just prior to doing oil change.

Yes, window regulators have a certain lifespan and in 20 year old cars need to be replaced.  In this post you can see the complexity involved in removing and replacing rear window regulators. As far as cost, welcome to Porsche ownership.

Look just to the right of the power steering pump.  There is a black box that has a lid.  Open the lid and there is the main junction for the starter.  Careful, it is live and carries volts like it is connected straight to the battery.

The Y-cable is #21 in this diagram 

It sounds to me from your description that the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not kicking in the bendix.  Bench testing is one thing.  A starter motor requires a tremendous amount of amperage to operate, thus the two circuits to make it happen.  One is the main lead (big heavy wire main lead) that spins up the starter motor, and then the smaller lead to the solenoid to kick in the bendix.  Are you familiar with the Y-cable?  This is the one that connects to the starter circuit from the main junction point in  the engine bay.  Notorious for failing from internal corrosion.  What is the voltage at the main junction box (+ jumper point) in the engine bay?

Two thoughts come to mind since you are saying "oil pooling on the block".  I thought you were talking about oil inside the plenum.  Have you checked your oil filler tube for cracks?  There is also the AOS crossover line that goes from the AOS to Bank 2 that becomes very brittle from heat and then cracks.  Both of these can cause rough running.  Maybe you should consider having your engine and intake smoke tested.