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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. 3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

    Just be aware of two points:


    1. You are disabling a federally mandated safety item; in many states that is grounds for failing the car at its annual inspection.
    2. Your insurance company can play games with you if you have an accident such as rear ending someone of bumping into an inanimate object.  You purposely disabled a mandated safety feature designed to prevent such things, you could end up on the hook for all the damage.

    I have to totally agree +2

  2. I believe the seat belt tensioner is located in the B pillar....where the seat belt rolls back into the pillar.

    Here is what I would do, pull the seat belt out all the way several times and see if it rolls back up correctly.

    Then clear the code and see if it comes back.  It might just be an anomaly.

    My seat belt light came on unexpectedly last evening.  Never before.  Once I hook up my  Durametric this morning, I am curious to find out what triggered it.

    It was the passenger seat buckle. Cleared code, light is out. Shot some electrical contact cleaner in the buckle.  We shall see.

  3. Recently had my drivers side door latch mechanism begin to do weird things.  Lock..okay.  Unlock and lift door handle...nothing.  Repeat and it would do it again.  Finally, when I could lift the door handle to open the door, often the door locks would begin to cycle on and off and the lock button on the dash would flash red then off, then on again.  I finally replaced my door latch mechanism entirely with an OE Porsche part.  No more problems.  The door latch mechanism has three microswitches on  it, one internal on a circuit board inside the door latch.  The door latch mechanism is an electro-mechanical device.  Apparently when the door latch mechanism goes bad (one of the microswitches), the car does all sorts of weird things.


    My car is 21 years old with 144K miles.  I accept that things are going to need to be replaced at that age.  I daily drive and sometimes lock/unlock 5-6 times a day.

  4. I don't think a 99 996 has an alarm siren.  When the immobilizer is set off, it just beeps.  Are you sure there isn't some aftermarket alarm on the car.  A beep when  locking the car means a zone is open somewhere....hood, engine lid, console lid, fuel filler door, doors, overhead infrared sensors, and if you have it the glove box door.  If the car is unlocked and thus the immobilizer is not set, and yet the alarm is going off you have a problem.  Pull the fuses for the alarm system B8 and C3



  5. You actually might check out Porsche NA.  I have heard that they are offering short blocks for $7500.  You transfer all your existing engine stuff over to a brand new short block.  You will want to have the heads professionally rebuilt, and replace the major/minor stuff already mentioned.  If you are going to farm out the work, expect somewhere in the $15-18K range for a complete job.  I believe these guys are the best head rebuilders out there, and you should maybe find out from them about an entire engine rebuild https://www.hartech.org/


    No wait...that's not what I was thinking of.  I'll  go look it up on the head rebuilders...something H....


    Hoffman  www.hamheads.com

    Of course the ultimate builder is Flat 6.  About a year wait....

  6. I would run from this car unless you are into spending lots of money.  Excessive cam deviations on a 3.4L are due to wear on the chain rails, which requires engine removal and disassembly.  An expensive proposition because there will also be many other wear items to replace while engine out.  Unless this is absolutely the car of your dreams, I would keep looking.  Cheap Boxsters are all over the place.

  7. Besides the usual 996 maintenance items, I think when looking for a Cab the main thing to look at is the top condition and operation of the top.  So many horror stories regarding broken mechanisms and hydraulics.  Given that the 996 is approaching 20 years of age, you can expect that a cab may need a new top unless it has been stored in a climate controlled environment most of its life.  Even then, age takes a toll.

  8. Durametric in this case will not tell you anything.  Generally, CEL's are related to emission equipment and running conditions.  That being said, I consider Durametric a wise investment.  Now, you have had the car a week and noticed a quark with the gas gauge.  Are you really ready to spend $$$ chasing this down?  Could be the sending unit is a bit sticky from non-use. 12 gallons in would put it at about 7/8 of a full tank.  I would wait until after a few more fill ups before jumping in with $$$ to check this out. 

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