ivass

Hi Guys, I had a MAF failure which triggered a CEL on my 2013 C2S, and while fixing this, I noticed that I have two other errors. One was for the micro switch on the passenger's door, and one was for the siren of the alarm (my siren never worked, so I knew about the issue). I replaced the door handle with the micro switch and the siren. Now, I few seconds after I lock the car, the alarm goes off. Can anyone think of what might be triggering it? I am guessing this is whey the original siren had burned out. Hope one of you can point me in the right dirrection. Thank you, Ivo

Any idea how to fish them out? I see them but it almost looks like I have to remove the dash. Does the harness flip down so the relay can be removed? Looks like I have to pull it up to get it out. Looking a cluster of 3 relays and a larger computer box or some sort.

Thank you Loren

Hi guys, My passenger side cooling fan is showing some erratic operation - runs on high when I start the car in the morning, runs for a few mins when I turn it of, sometimes runs while driving without a good reason for it, etc. Error code is P0480 Fan Control Driver. Could someone please give me the part number for the fan control module for a 2013 C2S and let me know where it is located? For some reason I can't find it. Also, does anyone know where the fan relays are located? Would like to swap left and right just to make sure it is not the relay. Thank you, Ivo

Follow-up ... I found a post which showed that on a car with an electric wing, one can reach the latch from under the raised wing. Since my car has a fixed wing, I could not do that. Instead, I reached through the louvers of the deck lid (pic1), removed the rubber shroud that goes to the intake, reached in under the black plastic cover of the engine (used a few rags to hold the plastic pulled apart), and was able to see and push the latch with a long screw driver, right where the cable was supposed to attach. Pic 2 shows the disconnected cable and, pic 3 and pic 4 show how it connects. The issue is that the plastic clip holding the cable is not to strong and pops out easy. Part of the issue is that the cable attaches to the air intake (pic 8), and every time you pull out the intake pipe, like when you change oil, you put strain on the cable and it can pop out. My solution was to fabricate a small bracket (pic 5), and bolt it on top of the plastic clip using one of the bolts holding the latch mechanism plus an additional 6mm bolt which I added to an existing hole on the latch (pic 6 and 7). Note in pic 9, the location of the emergency lid release. This cable can be reached by raising the electric wing, but is unreachable on cars with a fixed wing. Plus, it is attached to the actuator, so if the cable pops out from the latch, it is of no use. I tied up some 60lb fishing leader to that cable and routed it above my tail light so I can use it if the electric release fails. The main issue I see with the design here, is that the emergency release cable is not independently attached to the latch mechanism. I will consider adding a whole new emergency release cable in the future. Ivo

Yes, but I can see from the bottom that that the cable is completely detached from the latch, so pressing the lid will not help. I need to figure out a way to get to the latch with causing the least damage. Looks impossible from the bottom, so I think I will try to go through the slats right after the air intake. If anyone had done this, I would appreciate some pointers.

I have the same issue with a 2013 Carrera S with Aero kit. The main cable came loose from the latch. The actuator is working but since the cable is loose it can't release the latch. Because I have a fixed wing, I can't reach the emergency cable. Do you guys have any other ideas how I can get to the latch to release it?

Thanks. I will try to isolate the issue using a resistor, but I know that replacing the contact unit yet again will fix the issue … temporarily. It just looks like there is something causing the contact units to fail, and I can’t put my finger on it. When I take the “failed” units, I test them for connectivity on all four wires as I spin the unit from lock to lock and I don’t get any disconnects. However, when I put them in the car I get the error as soon as I turn the steering wheel.

Hi All, I have a 99 C4 which I purchased back in 2003. In 2005 the airbag light came on with error 21 – (ignition circuit driver). I changed the clock spring – 996 652 211 00 with the same part number and the problem was fixed. Last year, in November 2012, I got the same issue and purchased a clock spring contact unit – 996 652 211 01 (this number superseded the original part number above) and the issue was fixed again … for about a month! I figured it must have been a defective part and ordered a new one. The new part was installed in January and now, in March, I just got the same error 21 again. What am I doing wrong? There is only one way to connect and install the contact unit and I just can’t figure out what is going on. If replacing the contact unit wasn’t fixing the issue for a while, I would be looking for the problem elsewhere, but it is, so it must be it. Has anyone seen this before? Thank you, Ivo

I need to find someone who can reprogram my DME from OBD2 to RoW in Miami. Looked at the registration tread but did not see a local post. Could anyone help or recommend a shop that can do this for me?

I know that a lot of you use the racing Carbotech pads, and was wondering if anyone is using their street compound called Bobcat 1521? I found several good reviews of this pad, but none on a Porsche forum. Has anyone used it?

I can't open the link to the DIY. Does anybody know if it has been moved, or if it is posted to a different location?

how are the $800 headers different than those? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PORSCHE...sspagenameZWDVW I

I used Loctite 574. Much better than any RTV silicone I ever used.

based on the pic you only need the wire harnes and the locking hook (other than fan and hinges)

I am considering cat bypass pipes and wanted to know if anyone has looked at the secondary air pump when installing those. Based on the below info posted by Loren in the 986 forum, looks like the air pump runs from about 1 to 3 minutes after a normal start up. If I am not mistaken the duration is determined by the ECU based on data from the secondary O2 sensors (is this correct?). If this is the case, does that mean that the pump will run for the full 179 seconds with by-pass pipes? Also, does anyone know if the operation of the pump is affected by switching from OBD2 to ROW DME? Am I overlooking anything? I would appreciate any input. Ivo The below was posted by Loren in the 986 forum! Per Porsche's 199 Tech Book... "Auxiliary Air Pump To reduce pollutants contained in the exhaust gas during the warm-up phase and to achieve the emission limits of the roll test in the USA, USA vehicles have a secondary air system. For this reason, an electric air pump has been mounted on the left-hand side of the engine compartment (Carrera). This pump is activated by the DME control unit and blows the additional air through air ducts to the discharge valve. A pneumatic switching valve which is closed when the secondary air system is inactive thus preventing the flow of additional air is installed between the air pump and the discharge valve. Functioning If the engine is started in a temperature range between minus 10.5° C and plus 45° C, the secondary air system is activated for a period of time dependent on the start temperature (min. 50 seconds, max. 179 seconds). The secondary air system is only activated if the following engine-related operating conditions apply: - Engine load (TL) between 0.7 ms/rev, and 4.7 ms/rev. - Air mass (ML) not greater than 300 kg/h - Engine speed between 680 rpm and 2,800 rpm - Altitude adaptation factor greater than 0.76 corresponding to less than 2,400 meters above sea level."

I am also in Miami and have been trying to figure out how to eliminate the cats on my 99 C4. It looks like the DME needs to be reprogrammed so we don't get a cell. Could you please PM if/when you do it, and let me know who did it for you. Thanks, Ivo

Thanks. Which way would this tube be easier to access - top or bottom? It looks like to get to it I will have to either take the right muffler off and reach it from the bottom or remove the large coolant hose and get to it from the top. Ivo

I found a small oil leak right on top of the corner of the right side valve cover (on top of cylinder 4). I suspect the connection between the ~3/4 inch thick hose and the engine head (see attached pic). The car is a 99 C4 6-speed. Can someone tell me what this hose is? Looks like some sort of a vent... Has anyone had problems with this before? Is it just an old o-ring, or is a cracked hose more more likely of a scenario? Any input will be highly appreciated. Thank you, Ivo

For those of you who have a hard time getting to cylinder 1 and 4 plugs! I followed Loren's instructions and was able to change my plugs. However, getting to plugs of cylinders 1 and 4 was pain #@??)*... but I got it. The second time I had to do this I removed the mufflers. This gave me a lot of room to work with and made the job a lot easier for me. Took me about 20 min to take both mufflers off the car. Just loosen the bracket on the cat side and the 3 13mm nuts holding the muffler to the engine support bracket (see pic). You don't really have to do this, but if you have big hands and a only small collection of extensions and universals this will help you a lot. Good luck.

My car is a 3.4L, 1999 C4, EGAS, DME 7.2, 6 Speed. So I guess I need the ROW (Euro 2) to get rid of the CEL. And as long as I use US 93 or better I am in good shape, correct?

I would rally appreciate some input on this. A specific point of interest to me is weather the ROW DME trows out a CEL if you use a cat bypass pipe. Has anyone tried this? I read somewhere that ROW DME ignores the secondary O2 sensor (for CEL purposes). Is this correct? I know that many people use cat bypass pipes, how do you deal with the CEL? Will the fuel map in the ROW DME give me a bit more power? Thanks

I have been trying to find a comparison of the OBD2 and ROW DME programs. Does anyone know where I can get this? Thank you in advance.

I would do all RMS and IMS work and would replace the fly wheel with new. I would rather not resurface it because very few shops can center the part exactly and cut it right. You might get some vibrations while engaging.

"A Little pissed off" ?... I would be furious. I am really sorry to hear about your ordeal. I have had a few similar issues over the years, and I think it really sucks!!! What aggravates me even more is that when you bring up the issue they act like it is not a big deal. If you demand refund/compensation, they just send you to their liability insurance company. Every time this has happened to me, I have backed off because I did not have time to deal with it. I have always wondered if we could create a "renntech retaliation fund". We could put up several hundred $ per person to get a descent amount to retain a national law firm which could deal with all those assholes. Even if they keep all of what they collect, I would be happy to make my point!