valley996

It's not difficult just a little time consuming. I just got mine back on the road, new ims, rms, coil packs, starter, torque converter rebuild. I did alright for the most part. This forum and the members helped me so much.

I did it myself. Remove rear bumper cover and heat shields. Muffler bolts may be rusted, so either spray with liquid wrench or heat with torch. Do one or the other. There might be a DIY on here. I replaced all the bolts while I had them off. Fister does a fast turn around and quality work. I bought my bolts and couplings from Fister. He was cheaper than most places. If you haven't done it, replace your spark plugs while your mufflers are off. It makes that job easier.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42727-muffler-clamp-replacement/?hl=%2Bremoving+%2Bmufflers

I did the fister exhaust on mine. It's inexpensive and sounds great. He does a great job and I got mine powder coated. I wouldn't even consider one of the expensive exhausts when you can do this one. It's louder than stock of course but its not too much. Sounds really good when your accelerate.

I want to thank everyone. This time I took the ground strap off completely and the scrubbed it with a wire brush. Reconnected and It started right up. Went for first test drive, ran great but have a couple coolant leaks. Hopefully just need to tighten the clamps some more. Thanks so much everyone.

Just tried jump starting it. It just clicked the starter just like with switch. I just bench tested my old starter. It came out quickly and spun. Battery good, starter apparently good, connections on battery clean. I did notice when I put the starter in that the plastic shield covering the heavy gauge wire was pushed back exposing about an inch of copper wire. Could this be my problem? I should have addressed this when i was doing it. I'll clean my engine ground strap in the mean time. Thanks for all the advice.

Okay I will try jump starting it. Also, I should have been a little clearer. I took the battery to Advance for the check. It gave the voltage and said the battery was good. I really appreciate all the help. I'll let you know how the jump goes.

I took my battery to get it tested. Showed 12.86 volts. I will check the main ground strap next. I guess if that's not it I will take the manifold off and check all the wiring harness connections. Crazy how it was running then next time I tried then all I had was a click. Would the code 662 PCM have anything to do with it?

Is there just one ground in the motor area. I only recall the one behind the right rear wheel area.

I will check the ground strap and see if I can turn the motor by hand. The last time I started it there were no strange noises, just some smoke. I appreciate all the suggestions. I am open to any ideas. It appears the starter is engaging but just won't turn the motor. Strange how it was running then the next day I went to start it and only the sounding click of the starter. I hooked it up to my Duremetric and the only code I had was 662 - PCM. Would this have anything to do with it?

Alright I turned the motor by hand, so good news there. I'm going to unhook the battery and take it to be tested.

I just recently reinstalled my motor in my 99 996 tiptronic after a new IMS, RMS and torque converter. After I had everything installed the car started ran a little rough then smoothed out. There was some white smoke on start up. I started it probably 5 times and ran it no longer than 5 minutes each time. A couple days later I went to start it and all I would hear is a loud click (which I assume is the starter engaging the flywheel). I thought maybe I had a bad starter. I replaced it today and it is doing the same thing. I charged my battery and it shows on my intrument panel that it is around 13 volts. Why won't the starter turn the flywheel.

Found the hose. It was bent back behind the motor. Thanks

Putting my engine back in and cannot remember what hoses go here. I need the hoses for the expansion tank. 99 996 C2. Which hose I am I missing?

This is on the front right near the air condition compressor. Not sure where it hooks up.

Where does #7 connect?

I'm in Roanoke.

Disregard. Figured it out.

Disregard. Figured it out.

Where does this connection go? I thought it went beside the AOS but it doesn't fit. The wire colors are somewhat faded but it appears to be this combination.

brown w/ pink or white stripe? / red with tan stripe / and solid red.

thanks

This is beside the AOS on the 996 C2. I can't figure out which plug connects to it or what it is. Thanks for any help.

I understand. Thank you for the information.

Loren,

I am in the same situation (99 996 C2 Tiptronic). I am reassembling and can't find a couple connections. Can you send me a color coded wiring diagram. I took lots of photos prior to removal but still confused.

thanks you

I appreciate the photos phil53chevy. A picture is worth a thousand words!

Mine is part # 993.605.123.00. I need to know where the change over valve mounts and where the two lines hook up. Thanks

Can someone tell me where this attaches and where the two vacuum lines go? I have a 99 996 C2. Thanks

The rust isnt real bad, but was wondering if anyone ever just cleaned the rust and treated the rails with something. What kind off metal are they made out of?