david_yorkshire

to re-light this thread..

I recently traded in my Panamera Turbo for a 991 GT3

I'm the second owner.

White, full Cubsport spec

axle lift 

PCCBs

SPP + DAB

few other things.

over the moon with it so far.

even really comfy to drive over long distances.

I have a gen1 996 GT3CS - this seems light years ahead on tech, but retains the overall feel.

Looking fwd now to getting it on track ;-)

thanks for the advice

I ran the car at the Vmax event - no brake problems whatsoever - there was much more braking space than I was anticipating, so didn't have to haul the car to a standstill on a dime !

not that it could have been done, as my max speed was 175mph; that was from a standing start in 0.7 mile !

Off to a longer runway next weekend - 2 miles !!

I can't measure the difference in pad wear from before the first event to now as the wear is so small, so I think it's a non issue - I'll keep an eye on it though 

trying to crack the magic 200 ! :eek:

Hi all

This May also apply to the other models in the range but try as I might I can't find the minimum brake pad levels for front and rear.

I'd rather not use the method of waiting till the sensors get cut though to tell me to replace !

I've also got a Vmax day coming up soon at the Top Gear test track, Dunsfold, so wanted to see how much life was left in the existing pads before I went.

Anyone help out here ?

Thanks

For my UK friends I went with DMS Automotive

Great service and now with quite a bit over 600bhp on a Std 2013 turbo

update in catastrophic failure - two coil packs failed !

great service from Porsche for resolution - all taken car of effortlessly and seamlessly

The brake warning light was a broken wire in a sensor - easy fix.

Going to swap the airfilter & new rear discs & front pads next...

does anyone else work on their cars here ?!

Hi Lauren;

thanks for the info - my thoughts too.

I did check the rear sensor circuit with a meter when I re-assembled - all was OK.

I never got chance to re-check though;

The car died spectacularly yesterday, and is currently sat in the local dealer having been recovered on a flat bad

All was going well - did a short 10 mile journey, parked up for 30 mins, got back to the car, restarted, drove off and had the following on dash messages

brake failure

PSM failure

check engine

4wd transmission failure

auto start stop deactivated

it also sounded rough, like it was only running on 2 cylinders !

So, as the car has Porsche warranty, I'm now waiting to hear what is wrong...

OK - pads removed and replaced;

very straightforward job - 40 mins both sides

I've replaced the wear sensor that had been cut - the other side is fine

however, the 'brake worn' message on the display still remains - does this require a garage visit to turn off ?

Thanks Loren - you are right - I was way High !

I must be dumb... I searched the Panamera forums first and couldn't see any references to brake replacement & torque.

I'm guessing somewhere around 120ftlb for the rear calliper to hub bots...

so , my rear pads need changing;

before I get my hands dirty, can anyone answer the following ?

1) What size / type is the calliper bolt - looks like a T55 star to me.

2) What is the tightening torque on this bolt on replacement ?

3) Will the dash warning of brake pad wear remove itself when I replace the wear indicators ?

hate paying garages to do jobs I can do myself... :)

David

as far as I'm aware, the 996 GT models had minimal colour coat underneath, as most of it is just primer;

as such, you are going to struggle to get an exact match

can't speak for the K, but I have a friend who has an IPD plenum fitted to his 996 GT3

before and after dyno, same day etc - 28bhp up !

be aware teh cup parts are liekly to be VERY expensive...

I've just discovered how much a set cost for my 997 Cup car, as I have the 110dB headers which are too loud :(

just checked offsets on my new hyvrib vs the 18" gen 1 turbo wheels (with snow and ice tyres) and i can see no reason why they wouldnt fit

me too

certainly no slouch !

none at all; I had that combination before going the Performance friction route - as Loren mentioned above, they are not so good when cold; PF are much better

both of mine do this;

definitely oil pressure related, as soon as the oil pressure comes up (within seconds) it goes away

on the cup car, I turn the fuel pump off and crank the engine to get the oil pressure up first (motec dash) then start normally.

No rattle on startup

is it an RS (single mass flywheel) ?

if so you are hearing the gearbox cogs rattling together !

worse when warm, but totally normal

suspension set up is complex;

no one single change will sort all evils !

simply adding more neg camber will not necessarily get more heat in the tyres

it will allow you to lean on the car harder in corners, which in turn will generate more heat; (I run -5 deg on the race car, and -2.5 on the road/track car)

toe effect on heat is minimal; I run toe in on my road/track GT3 and toe out on my 997 cup car when racing !

don't forget ride height - possibly one of the most overlooked items

our cars sag at the rear (heavy bottom!)

get the ride height back to stock and you will be amazed how much better the car handles, especially at high speed.

I'd get friendly with a well respected geometry workshop to get the best out of your car - these things are very sensitive to setup

here in the UK Centre Gravity are one of the recognized experts

not sure why you don't think the GT3 doesn't have a racing diff

it's essentially same (different plates ) to the cup car unit, which certainly is a race car !

have you guys actually looked into the REAL running costs of a cup car ?

if not, I'd suggest you do before you buy one.. they might frighten you !

Want to take your wheels off ?

that will be $1600 for the air wrench, plus lines plus bottles & regs (you also need a lance for the air jacks), so double that...

Don't forget that the engine & gearbox & suspension components are time limited to replace / rebuild too...race cars dont spend that many 'hours' being driven, whereas on a track day you will soon rack up the hours

Also be aware that the 997 cup is a sequential race box; flat shift from 2nd to 3rd accidentally (it can happen...) you'll be looking at the thick end of $50K gearbox & engine repairs... I have seen this happen !

Not trying to put you off at all.

If you have the means then by all means go for it !

I'm just buying a 997 cup car now, but to race..

I know what these things cost to run!

Whatever you do -enjop it !

Loren - without your help this would have been an impossible job !

All completed, but what a pain to have to split the door !

thanks again

David

lambda sensors ?

is it throwing any error codes or CEL ?

nope gen 1 2004 model !

a modern 4.5Litre V8 should easily be capable of over 500BHP, with 2 x turbos strapped to it

I personally think that it's very lightly stressed

hell, my GT3 has only 3.6 litre, normally aspirated, but delivers over 400BHP !

interesting

mines a std Turbo

peak boost is 0.7 bar

drops marginally at high rpm