hanuman

Swapping the water pump is not too bad, while you are there you might also want to clean out debris from the radiator intake and also check coolant tank for cracks as well. Good luck.

The front trunk micro switch is notorious on my 02 S, the catch point is really late and usually I have to give the trunk an extra push after it fully latch to make sure the indicator goes off. I'm sure there is a way of adjusting this but I've not spend any time since giving it an extra push usually resolve this. There is nothing special with this switch it's just an on off switch.

I purchased my 2002 Boxster S with 160K miles accompanied with a bad OAS and bad final drive for under USD$6K ended with a repair bill of slightly over USD$ 3K and still have a leaky coolant system .. but it's been the best purchase experience for me since the engine still purrs and the annoying 2nd gear non syncro can be over looked if you LEARN to shift correctly :). These cars perform best once properly warmed up as it a pedigree and only perform once properly prepped, I drive the heck out of if it and it still demand more.

Hello, newbie here to this forum. I recently started looking to purchase a Boxster, and found one that is priced way to good to walk away from.

The good...it is a '02 Boxster S and it runs really well, no unusual noises, suspension is tight, clutch feels like it is new and everything works on the car. No leaks underneath and I did the oil cap test to test the oil seperator and it seems to be good, car idles smoothly, etc. Mileage is 110,000 miles and it is for sale for over $6k under market value. It was recently imported to Canada from Texas.

The bad... one small ding on rear quarter panel, air bag light is on and the worse item, it would seem that the second gear syncro is gone. You can't shift first to second without grinding but you can downshift from third to second without issues. Seller says it is the syncro and he has a quote to fix it for $500...I didn't think there was any repairs on a Porsche for that low an amount. <_< Last item, no history on the car...I plan on doing a car fax today just to get an idea on the history.

So should I just run, or could this still be a good purchse. Keeping in mind that this car is selling for considerably less then market value and I am able to almost all repairs myself.

On another note, anyone know what option codes 239, 502 and 584 are?

Thank you in advance for any advice

When you say wont start, does the engine turn over? If it does not turn over or occasionally turn over, it could also be your ignition switch or a bad starter motor. If this is a manual transmission the you 'll have to floor the clutch to start and that could also be the switch on the clutch that is bad too. Good luck and keep us posted.

Electrical gremlins are always impossible to diagnose. Make sure to check all the relays and fuse located on the drivers side as a first step. Inspect if there are any sign of corrosion or water stains/damage. Also, inspect under both drivers side and passenger seat for wet carpet of sign of water. If there are sign of corrosion in the fuse/relay box the this car might have been in a flood.

How does the car drive and run?

I think there is an emergency release cable hidden underneath the rear bumper on the left side, you might have to take the wheel and cover off to access. I've seen photos posted on this before on other projects that requires removal of the rear bumper. The rear trunk has 3 release cable, 1 for the releasing from inside the trunk one for the solenoid and one for this emergency release from outside as I've mentioned. I'll try and find more info in the meant time.

Good Luck

Eng

The actuator was bad. $75 part. Done. Hurray!

Glad to hear that it's fixed.

Thanks for the info. No worries as I tried another search and found your photos. I did take it all apart and I was disappointed to find nothing visibly wrong. Spring ends were in place and everything seemed free to move. I greased it all up and reassembled with hope that would do it. No luck.

I am suspicious of the microswitch and the solenoid / servo that actually tugs the release cable. I am going to see if the cable is cycling enough and it the switch is interfering...if I can get back into the car. Let me know if you have any other ideas.

All the Best.

If it's the solenoid then for sure you can use the emergency cable release that is located in the left wheel well behind the headlight assembly. You will have to remove the left wheel and also the wheel well cover to get access to this cable. If your lock mechanism is operational, pulling on this release cable should do the trick. In my case the solenoid worked just that the latch mechanism was pinched refusing to allow the hood to open. If you hear the solenoid activating but the hood not releasing then it could possibly be the cable to the solenoid actuator has slipped off or if you have forgotten to hook it back up the first time you remove the latch and reinstall. Keep us posted.

I re-read your post and I think I know how you fixed the latch release. I will give it another shot tomorrow when I can pry and grease the spring / latch. Thanks again.

Hi Chris,

Sorry for not replying with picture, seasonal allergies have gotten the best of me these few days. Once you get the hood open, remove the entire assembly from the car. Proceed to remove the micro switch ( I think there are instructions here on this forum), right underneath the micro switch assembly is a coil spring, this is the culprit. I bet you the 90 degree bent end of this spring has come off and is sandwich against the latch return. To get this back into the slot you'll have to release the tension from the other end of this spring. Once the tension has been release, use a flat head screwdriver to pry the loose end back into the slot. Proceed to reengage the tension and assemble once the spring i s back in the slot. You might have to adjust the microswitch, it might be off the sweet spot, you'll hear the alarm chirp when you engage the locks.

Cheers

Where / how did you aim the oil? I have same issue and would like to know if you lubed from in front of the car or from underneath. Can you post a photo?

Lube it from the front in the middle of the gap, to the right of the red latch release, you'll have to angle the nozzle almost horizontal at the striker. I'll post picture when I get home. First try the emergency release cable located inside the right wheel well (you'll have to take off the wheel well cover) and see if it unlock. Good luck.

Cannot for the life of me open the front trunk of my Boxster S (2002). The battery is fully charged and I can hear the lock releasing (at least the solenoid is activating) when I hit the remote or even from within the car with the switch on the driver side. I've even tried the emergency cable release on the passenger side wheel well but to no success. I've even recruited my wife to push down on the trunk lid while I pull my hardest on the release cable but the lid is stuck fast. Anyone know a way to get this lock to release? I'm contemplating on hacksawing the striker from thin gap of the trunk.

Desperately seeking help.

Hanuman

Just and update - Problem resolved. After spraying the latch with penetrating oil and letting it sit for 20 min. I had to try one last time before trying something more destructive (like hacksawing the striker). With a little more prying and hitting the release button on the FOB repeatedly finally open the front trunk. It turns out the issue was caused by the latch return being pinched against the housing due to the latch return spring popping off. I guess years of opening and closing action have caused the return spring hooked end being straighten out and eventually popped off. The housing of the latch mechanism was also bent inward towards the release. A few minutes of prying and greasing eventually return the mechanism to full smooth operation. I've also moved the tool pouch and stow it behind the passenger seat just incase this ever happen when I'm out in the boonies and need to tow at least I have the tow hook readily available for use.

Cheers to all.

Hanuman

Sometimes when working in the battery area I have left a tool on the cowling under the hood. When I closed the front trunk it closed relunctantly and on re-opening was very difficult. Is one side of the front trunk lid (close to the windshield) higher than the other?

If so you might try placing a towel down on the lid and gently push down on the high spot and see if it doesn't open or assume your latch is working (open) and put a hard plastic upholstery tool near the latch and pry up.

Good luck.

Thanks for the tip, but there are no high spot on the lid of the trunk. The last time I closed this was yesterday when I got to work. It was a bit difficult latching securely but eventually after some stronger assurance and that was it .. it refuse to open at the end of the day when I tried to open the trunk to stow my bag .. hmmm. I'll try and find these tools to assist. Thanks again.

Here is a shot. Not sure if it will help.

That is one clean engine if I may say so.

Cannot for the life of me open the front trunk of my Boxster S (2002). The battery is fully charged and I can hear the lock releasing (at least the solenoid is activating) when I hit the remote or even from within the car with the switch on the driver side. I've even tried the emergency cable release on the passenger side wheel well but to no success. I've even recruited my wife to push down on the trunk lid while I pull my hardest on the release cable but the lid is stuck fast. Anyone know a way to get this lock to release? I'm contemplating on hacksawing the striker from thin gap of the trunk.

Desperately seeking help.

Hanuman

Bought My 2002 Boxster S last Sept and it came with 161K miles (instant 100K club member). Engine still Puuurss and still shift crisp. Put on 5K miles and am looking at some minor repair on coolant leaks. It's my daily driver and loving it

Just hit 185K ... wheeee!! 12/12/12

Pull the shift boot and look for coins that have fallen into the shift gate from the ashtray...

When I took the center console out of mine, I found at least $5 from the previous owner.

I had a similar issue, but mine was no Reverse, 1st and 3rd gear. I had to crawl home on 2nd and 4th gear. I too found at least $4.50 in change under the coin box LOL. But that was not the issue. I waited for the exhaust system to cool down before jacking it up on the right rear to take a look see (since the shift cable goes down that side). It turned out that the lower shift cable have popped out of the fork. Hmmm .. sounds suspicious since I just had all the drive shaft replaced and had the work done by an independent Porsche specialist ( I spent a ton of money there). While I was under the car I also discovered one of the Bolt was loose ( the one just above the brace under the transmission) Hmmmm ... could this be the work of a sloppy mechanic ? The shift cable lock clips were bent inwards and would not lock the cable in place, so after some quick and hard shifting going through twistie will work the cable off the fork. I'll definitely make it a quarterly schedule to check the rear linkage of the transmission. So far the shift has been crisp and accurate.