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997_rich
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Everything posted by 997_rich
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Trailing arms and control arm bushings are difficult if not impossible to check without pulling the bolt and looking at it. They only pop out of center when under force. You can't see the bushing inside the mounting ears.
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WYAIT= while you are at it.. this tool me almost a cup of coffee to figure out. WYSIATI= what you see is all there is (a cognitive explanition of why people more heavily weight visible items in decision making). - this was throwing me off.
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Ok, first I would completely clean the frunk to make sure there's nothing in there. I'd also take all of the frunk plastic trim off and put a hand on every visible component (like the battery or wiper motors) and shake the **** out of it. I'd do the same thing on the bottom of the car. If it's none of this my best assessment based on "in turns or when braking" and "hockey puck in a bucket" and "reactive" is that it's a control arm bushing. go to a parking lot and do a few braking situations from 25mph, do it straight, then in a right and left turn, try it again and again and add braking force each time. If you can get to a point where you consistently feel braaaaaaaake-clunk it's almost def a control arm bushing. The force builds up and then all the sudden the bushing pops. It is just one hockey puck clunk, right? or at least a clunk-return (bad-dunk). If it's a true repeated clunk the control arm diagnosis might be off.
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I'd say you're probably going to get about 10k to do it right. I see that the wheel is changed so we have to assume to old one is bent or broken. If it was hit with enough force to trash the wheel, you're going to be dealing with replacing a lot of the front end suspension. There's also a decent chance that those mounting points are not out of whack on the frame. This one seems pretty risky. if you're going to get into it make sure you deal really hard so you can sell it as salvage (someone can part it out) if it's not straight.
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Ah- i see now. Thanks so much
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JFP- do you have a link to the tool? I can't find it.
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can you give some more info on the rattling? you feel it only in the wheel? do you feel it in the shake of the car? what does it sound like? like a washer dancing around on a loose bolt, like a bell ringing, like clunky rattle, like a quarter rattling in a coffee can, like a hockey puck bouncing around in a bucket? you're sure you can't feel a click or anything in the steering? I had a bad steering universal. it could be a loose ABS or brake line on the wheel carrier.
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I'm pressing wheel bearings in a 997s front wheel carrier. The bearings are sealed bearings. The seal on one side is red and the seal on the other side is black. I'm trying to decide which side goes in and which side goes out. I've heard that one side has the ABS cog inside of it- the grey side. This grey side goes "in" (faces the center of the car). Is this correct? I've really only got one shot at this so I want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.
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by the way TDC on cylinder one is with BOTH intake and exhaust closed (off cam).
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I haven't dug into this engine but of course the the crank should be at TDC. Usually the ends of the camshafts have markings that show tdc alignment. I don't know what the end of these look like but on a BMW for instance they are square with punch marks that face "up" on the head. There is a tool that most shops have to grab the end of the camshafts and lock them when servicing the engine. I've attached a link for that tool for porsche. you can see how that tool grabs the end of the camshafts. I suspect they're square like BMW. http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=147
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Consider maybe having an experienced technician travel to do the work from the nearest country. He can probably do the work at a local shop. Pay for the work, travel, parts and use of the local shop.
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is there something blocking the key "handle" itself? there's a little black grain of rice sized electronic bit that the car needs to "see" using RF. It's similar to the antitheft stickers that retail stores use. You'll notice on the dashboard that the car knows which key you have "key 1" or "key 2" etc. Watch how this works when the car starts normally and you might be able to diagnose if the car is seeing the "black grain of rice". The ignition switch is just a switch- in fact i suspect you might be able to turn it with a screwdriver and start the car if the black grain of rice is present.
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997 gen 1 2006 C4S misfire
997_rich replied to GKRPL1's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
Have you checked to make sure that you have a good ground wire from the frame to cylinders 4,5,6? that'll cause crappy spark and it easy to forget to tighten the bolt that holds the wire when you pull the wire for plug service. or maybe the wire is half-broken. without a good ground on the engine you'll get a crappy spark.
