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Lee Quave

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Everything posted by Lee Quave

  1. Thanks Ahsai for the link. I have ordered parts from Auto Atlanta before and found them to be very helpful and I've ordered the part already. Thanks also to DBJoe996 I will surely use SS clamps. Any idea what that part is under the alternator that the hose connects to, just curious. Pease Out.
  2. I found a coolant leak coming from a hose that attaches to a part that is bolted to the engine directly below the alternator. I have searched the PET and Auto Atlanta's Porsche Factory diagram and called Sun Coast Porsche in FL. and Pelican to no avail. The two retailer both told me that Porsche's parts diagram isn't at all helpful in finding small hoses and that I would need to get a part number. The hose uses clamps that would have to be cut off to replace. Does anyone have a part number for the hose and/or what the part that the hose attaches to so that I can narrow down my search? I have a 1999 C2 coupe with manual transmission. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  3. I’m changing my water pump and thermostat and wondering if I should use thread locker on the bolts. The bolts look like there is residue of blue thread locker.
  4. Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve been thinking of getting LN oil filter adaptor so I think this is a good opportunity to do so as well as a magnetic oil drain plug.
  5. I’ve searched but haven’t found an answer. I changed my oil and filter and noticed that the oil was very black with just about 5,000 miles on the oil. I also found that the spring in the oil canisters was not attached and fell out when I was draining the canister. Could this spring being detached have caused the oil to get so black or could this be a sign of an intermix issue?
  6. Thanks Loren The header bolt that was missing was the furthest forward bolt on the right side. The car has only been driven around the block. At first the CEL wasn’t flashing (when parked) but started went I took it around the block after discounting the battery for a few minutes. I will replace the spark plugs and the coil packs (about 75k miles on both) and of course the missing bolt. I’m thinking that I don’t need replace the header gasket? Time to contribute again I think.
  7. I received the following fault codes from running the Durametric Software on car and would greatly appreciate suggestions on how to address them. P1602 Porsche fault code 108 Supply voltage open circuit. P1319 Porsche fault code 62 Misfire emissions-relevant P1313 Porsche fault code 50 Cylinder 1 misfire P0300 Porsche fault code 75 misfire damaging to catalytic converter P0301 Porsche fault code 63 cylinder 1 misfire damaging to catalytic converter My car started idling rough and I discovered a bolt missing from the right header. Do I need to replace the catalytic converters? If so would replacing the cats with bypass pipes cause emissions problems down the road.
  8. Yes replacing the cable did the job. Hopefully you got your like new by now. Sorry for not responding earlier but the personal message was quarantined by my ISP. Lee
  9. I’ve been having the same issue. It’s been going on for over a year. I’m not sure if the foam in the ducts causes it but when I have my AC on (9 months a year) my windshield gets foggy strips along the bottom but if I turn on the floor vents it doesn’t. It would be great to find out what causes this and how to fix it.
  10. Click on the link. Tirerack has the information you need. http://www.tirerack.com
  11. I replace the door micro switch (part # 99661312300) which is directly behind the door handle and now everything is working as it should. I’m not sure what the purpose of the switch is however everything also worked after I unplugged the switch as suggested by bcr4d but I replaced it anyway since I need to repaint the inside door handle.
  12. Yes I did after your post. The fuse is good. I’m going to remove the door panel again and check all the wires I can see for damage. If I don’t find anything it’s off to the dealer. I will post the finding either way. Loren, thanks for your help.
  13. Thanks Loren, Everything was working fine before I replace the window regulator with the exception that the window would drop down when first pulling on the door handle. I disconnected the battery first and I didn’t have any problems with the removal or installation of the regulator or the door panel. Everything is still works but, not normal For example: The window goes all the way up when the door is locked with the key and goes down when unlocked with the key and will go back up after getting into the car and closing the door but if I go to open the door again it will go down as normal but it will not go up again. The horn beeps once when I lock the door with the key. If I press the button on the key the horn beeps once and nothing happens but if I lock the door with the key first and then press the button I can hear the locks engage, the interior lights turn off and the alarm indicator light flashes as normal. If I don’t press the button the interior lights stay on. After locking the door with the key and then setting the alarm with the key fob button if I press the button again the doors unlock and the driver side window goes down a little and stays down. I tried disconnecting the battery and removing fuses B8 and C3 hoping that it needs a reset to no avail. Maybe it can be fixed with the Porsche PST2 or PIWIS tool?
  14. Has anyone experienced anything like I described? Does anyone know what the alarm fault codes: 23 W lead and 25 W lead means? Suggestions please. Thanks
  15. Help with electrical problems I changed my driver side window regulator yesterday. I did not have any major issue installing the unit. I made sure that the window was operating properly before fully assembling the door panel. An hour or so after finishing the project I tried to start the car but only heard clicking from the starter. I also noticed that all the interior lights were on and the window now will not go up all the way; it stops at the level that it normally drops to when you first move the door handle. The window also would not automatically go up or down. I know this normally happens after the battery is disconnected but it took 5 or six time operating the window manually before started to work properly vs. 2 or 3 times for the passenger side. Once the window went all the way up while the door was open but then immediately went back to the normal position. I place a charger on the battery to get it started and went out for a ride figuring that the system needed to be reset because the battery was disconnected during the install and to also recharge battery. The interior lights stayed on the entire time. I disconnect the battery, thoroughly cleaned all the contact points and fully charge the battery hoping that a weak battery was the problem. Not. I connect my Durametric reader and received the code P1602 which I believe is from disconnecting the battery. I also received the alarm fault codes: 23 W lead Status: not present Frequency: counter: 1 25 W lead Status: not present Frequency: counter: 3 Anyone have similar issues? I’m going to get a new battery a relatively cheap diagnostic expense. Had battery tested; it was good. It’s only 3 years old. Other strange related issues: Interior lock switch doesn’t lock the doors and neither does the key fob. I then locked the door manually and the window went up fully. I then press the button on the key and I heard the locks engage, the headlights flashed and the interior lights went off. I then pressed key fob button again the doors unlock and the window goes down slightly and stays there. If I press the button again the doors don’t lock and the horn beeps. I then started the car and press the lock button and the doors locked. If I press the button again the car unlocks and the light in the button goes off but if I press it again nothing happens.
  16. Too bad! I feel your pain; I had to replace my engine because of the intermix problem. However it’s not uncommon to get the “Mayonnaise” in the oil filler tube. I would suggest you drain the oil to be sure. Good luck.
  17. I bought my “new” rebuilt engine from the Porsche dealer. It cost a little under 12k total two years ago for the engine and installation.
  18. Check this link. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
  19. The opposite happens to mine randomly but it happens when the ignition is on. I don’t think it’s my switch since I replaced it a couple of years ago. Let us know what you find out. GL
  20. Search is your friend... How to remove stripped drain plug? Doh. Nice thread, and I did try hammering in the larger size torx bit but it pretty much made it worse. But I think the screw extractor should work...now I just need to find a place that sells them. Try Sears or a well stocked hardware store. BTW Where do you get your oil? $42 for 9 quarts is a good price.
  21. Another option. Check this link. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=455602
  22. Try the search feature. The question has been asked before but if memory serves me right the major challenge and expense has to do with electronics and/or the necessity of replacing the wiring harness. GL and keep us posted on the progress.
  23. I feel your pain as I had to have my engine replaced. But all seriousness aside, you are being punished for excessive speed on the highway. GL
  24. The exact same thing happened to my motor. It was diagnosed as either a cracked head or a failed head gasket. The only option offered by Porsche was to replace the engine which I did at a cost of 12K. The cost of rebuilding vs. replacing is close (cylinder head is 5K) and a remanufactured engine has a less chance of future problems. GL
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