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318touring

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Posts posted by 318touring

  1. Exactly.  I'm planning to give your instructions to the OPC and get them to exactly follow these step-by-step.  They'll have the latest PIWIS.  This is the problem here that there isn't enough modern 911s for the indy to invest $5-$10k on the 'latest' tools all the time.

  2. Thanks Richard, I was hoping you'd read this.

     

    I should have updated my profile, I actually now have a 2010 997.2 C2, profile fixed now BTW.

     

    I provided the link to this post to them, I don't know whether they followed your instruction to the letter.

     

    Since I'm bringing the car to OPC, and there isn't a lot of 911s in Wellington (New Zealand) so this might be the first one they have to do.  So I'm hoping to be able to get them to read through a set of instructions rather than doing trial and error.

     

    The indy said that using Durametric, the DME didn't show an option for cruise control.  Using their 'older' Piwis, it showed cruise control but didn't accept the setting provided.

     

     

  3. Thread revival!

     

    So I've just gotten my local indy doing this and while they can code the instrument cluster and gateway modules (symbol shows up at ignition at pos. 2), they can't code DME and steering column control unit.

     

    Any idea why?  I'm booking the car for the dealer to take a look at as the indy indicated that it might be their Durametric and old Piwis (to 996 only) might be the cause.

  4. X-posting from other forums as this seems to be a rare issue? 

     

    Car is 2010, C2, PDK

     

    Has anyone had this issue? 

     

    I have read a post or two where people were just leaving things be. 

     

    Would appreciate getting any feedback on what could be the cause. I have checked the power steering fluid, and it was full. 
     

    The video is of the rack itself. 

     

     

     

    Thanks!

  5. This has been bugging me.  The knob (shiny) part popped off one day, with the metal U-ish shape still attached to it.  Refer to Pic 1, the U-ish shape metal is marked.

     

    Now I have been having no luck in trying to put the knob into the lever again!

     

    Tried installing the U-ish metal first by pushing it against the horizontal bar on the lever (Pic 2), however once that's in I have no way putting the metal into the know again.
     

    Please help :-(

    post-61448-0-24822100-1450515320_thumb.j

    post-61448-0-74062200-1450515379_thumb.j

  6.  

    Thanks JFP. I will certainly follow your advice. FYI, I spoke with Jake Raby today and got an ear full of faults with the M96 engines and a quote for a "tank-like" replacement engine. He told me that noisy lifters are a common misdiagnosis for these engines, particularly in the colder regions of the country. His opinion is that my problem is not the lifters, but the cylinders caused by a faulty design of the cylinders by Porsche. This all ads to the inherent complexity and contradiction of Porsche automobile ownership. My only regret is that money is not unlimited in my family and my love of living, eating and surviving far outweighs my love for Porsches.

     

    Obviously, Jake sees a lot more engines completely disassembled than we do, so I would be the last to refute his observations, plus there are many instances we are aware of that ultimately turned out to be confirmed cylinder issues on the M96/97 engines.  He does have a valid point about cold start induced wear, particularly on engines that continue to run lower film strength 0W-40 oils as most engine wear occurs during cold start and warm up when these oils are at their weakest levels of wear protection, and the cars are often just cold started and then immediately driven without any real warm up period.

     

    If you are concerned that Jake may be correct, I would pull the plugs and bore scope the cylinders looking for signs of unusual thrust side wear patterns, which are often quite obvious even to the untrained observer. 

     

     

    For clarification, when you said "the cars are often just cold started and then immediately driven without any real warm up period." this was talking about when people went past 3000rpms while the engine/oil is cold?

  7. To revive this thread, especially no one still knows the reason, and I at last managed to remember to get the sound mentioned by OP.

     

    To recap, on Tiptronic regardless whether it's the new or old gearbox.  Only happened when the gear lever was moved from N or P to R, or D.  Or the car's turned off and on P.

     

    Only happened when the car was really warm, and after a spirited drive.  Never occurred after it's first started on the day, or when it's cooled down.  The cideo captured the noise on the following seconds : 3, 8, 14, 19, 23 and when it's tunred off at 31.  I put my phone on the ground just below the B-pillar, on the right side of the car.

     

    http://youtu.be/NPEScjeTEPo

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