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318touring

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Posts posted by 318touring


  1. Doing my usual Saturday morning check-under-the-car routine, and noticed that something might have been seeping/leaking very slowly.  I was investigating what could be making the noise referred to in this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44468-auto-noise-when-stationary-and-in-gear/

     

    Nothing on the ground.

    Did the most sensible thing, and pulled the cover off, and cleaned it up (pic below)

    rp1eAhP.jpg

    Checking around, it seemed that the area around the transmission oil pan is a bit grimy, like being caused by slowly escaping oil.

    krscTpA.jpg

    Interestingly, one of the bolt's head was filled with oil.

    uFlBv1E.jpg

    Definitely not engine oil, so would it be that the pan's gasket is leaking, or the pan hasn't been tightened correctly causing it to seep oil?

    Or is it something else?

    Car is 2003 C4 Cabriolet Tip


  2. Thanks Joe, that was what I thought.

    Sending it to the dealer tomorrow to get confirmed, I told them to spend an hour max looking for the cause.

    Car is not being used regularly anyway so it's not a hurry to get fixed but I like to know why.

    UPDATE: the dealer put the coolant system under pressure for 2 hours, and ..... no leak. They didn't charge for anything, and I'll mark this solved and keeping an eye on the car.


  3. Seems the tech is sure that 99% the top idler pulley is the cause.

    However annoyingly the car fails its MOT due to torn top struts, http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod13732/Shock-Absorber-Top-Strut-Support-Porsche-996-C4---Turbo/

    99634301504.jpg

    And there is excessive play on the lower arm ball joint, http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod126919/Control-Arm-with-Lower-Ball-Joint--Coffin-Arm--Porsche-986-Boxster-and-996---04_2/

    99634105316LSO.jpg

    I am looking at the right replacement parts, correct?


  4. Yup JFP, I'll be talking to the indie where I've just booked my car for water pump and low temp thermostat replacement.

    While they've done LNE bearing replacements I don't think they had done LN's courses out there in Georgia(?).

    Wellington (NZ) is such a small place (pop 400,000) and it might not make economic sense to invest so much money with such a small Porsche population here.


  5. It's all very well there is the $1400-$1500 Solution + install, but it has to be installed by authorised shops.

    What about Porsche owners outside the States?

    I'm stuck with 'lifed' LN's IMS at $650 for 40,000 miles/4 years, or using KK's method (Pelican + CH bearing) which might cost up to $250 with the same replacement period.

    Note all costs quoted above are in US dollars, which has an exchange rate of US$0.8 to NZ$1


  6. Just did the rear pads.

    Only issue was one of the dampener separated itself from its backing plate (the plate that glues itself to the back of the pad).

    At the end I put the old plate back with the new pad. will try to get the old dampener out when doing rotor change.

    Used brake cleaner to get the pin out and the sensor. I broke the sensor through the old pads. just move the sensor sideways and use a screwdriver to clear its way through the old pad.

    Total 2 hrs for me, using Textar bought from Design 911 in the UK.


  7. Mate, I bought all my parts from the UK.

    So far I had two shipments from Type 911, and just last week a set of rear pads + fitting kit from Design 911. The fitting kit is missing one clip, after I emailed Design 911, I think they're sending 1 clip my way (based on their shipment notifications email).

    Everything work out to about 1/2 price to what they would cost me in NZ, and of course no GST!!

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