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Everything posted by working4it

  1. Maybe I missed it but a quick look I didn't see it. Its in there somewhere www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/9PA_USA_KATALOG.pdf
  2. No, I wish I would have though...was so focused on the alternator. I had a coolant leak after a few days a found the plastic T(coolant return line out of alternator) had a crack. Of course you can't just order the T had to order the whole coolant hose (948-106-050 plus the neck 948-106-561). Another pain in the a$$.
  3. When it runs, hook up a multi-meter at the battery jump points in the engine bay and read out the volts. Anything under 12.5 is most likely the alternator or a control module. Are getting the same error codes? My car would run until the battery would die down, you old actually see the volts drop as the battery drained. With the duramtric I had an issue with usb driver but after reinstalling that it worked. Pm me and I will send you the shop procedure to change the alternator.
  4. Thanks Loren. I will try it. I assume I just have to take off the drivers seat battery and not both?
  5. Hi all, Well after I replaced a bad battery and alternator I am still throwing codes. I cleared using my Durametric, drove a few days and tested again. Still having the same codes appear. Any suggestions? 470 CAN comfort in single wire operation. Open circuit, test conditions are not complete. Fault is currently active and is not causing DTC. 907. Load management operation on vehicle sys/dme control module. No additional fault status available, test conditions not completed. Fault is currently active and not causing a DTC 778. Steering angle sensor (no description)
  6. Well, finally had some time to put everything back on, replace the vent line and oil pressure sensor. Started right up and is now putting out 13.8 volts. Took the old alternator to AutoZone and bench tested it and it wouldn't put out any volts. Additionally, I checked the codes with the durametric and have a couple of weird codes. I cleared them and will drive around for a bit and re check. My local dealer quoted 7 hours of labor plus $899 for the alternator. Its definitely a pain but well worth it.
  7. Just for clarification...what socket? Are you referring to the Pin connectors and what fuse # was blown.
  8. While I was doing the alternator I figured I might as well do some other maintanence. Replaced the belt and tensioner, cleaned the maf, and new filters.
  9. Does anyone know if you can order just the connector piece or do you have to replace the entire vent line? The ventline part #948-110-070. I broke it taking off the Y air intake.
  10. Double check the connector plug from the car. Its at ther very back of the tray. Mine wiggled its way lose from taking in/out and i zip tied mine together along with a pair of new bulbs and it seems to have fixed my dipped beam.
  11. Procedure: Disconnect Both batter cables (negative) Remove Right wheel Remove Right wheel housing liner Remove undercarage covers Remove air cleaner houseing/tubing Remove Air cleaner box Remove Drive Belt Remove ALternator/Generator impact bracket (3 bolts) Clamp off coolant inlet/outlet Unscrew ground lead Unhindge fastening clips Unscrew coolant lines (star bit) 1 screw on each outlet/inlet. Pull plastic coolant plugs out. Making sure you have the O rings Remove Alternator protective cap Unplug connector plug Unbolt 3 bolts holding alternator 2 side 1 on top Spend 45 minute
  12. Update Replaced both batteries, checked all connections and still not kicking out any voltage. Just replaced the liquid cooled alternator. Major pain in the a$$. On top of that its not working yet because I broke two pieces. The oil sending sensor and a breather T at the top. See pictures
  13. Update After clearing the codes, charging, checking the batter connections, i decided to drive it to work. About half way to work the volt meter dial jumped to 13.5. On the way home it was down to about 11.8 so something is going on. Plugged in the durametric and these codes appeared. Vehicle Electrical System Current Fault Codes 70: Starter battery voltage (second battery) - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 668: Vehicle vol
  14. I have a Duramteric but don't recall it checking the VES? Only related electrical components. Is there a way to test the alternator and specifically the VES? Additionally is the VES something we can change?
  15. Update #2 Charged the battery, cleared all codes to be safe, started car and used my multi-meter from the battery terminals and only pulling 12.4volts. I am going to assume the alternator. Anyone change theirs? Loren do you happen to have the procedure to change the Alternator? My generic manual only refers to "see 99 20"
  16. UpdatePulled both batteries and went to AutoZone to get them tested. The newly replaced front seat battery (Aug this year) tested good but critically low, the subwoofer battery tested good with a good charge. I am trickle charging the seat battery now.
  17. Hey all,Well, while driving home from work today MY04S displayed a message "Electric Load Shut Off". Here's the thing I had all kinds of screwy messages a few months back and my battery under the front seat was bad and replaced it with a new. Haven't tried pulling any codes but could it be a bad battery or the battery in back? Is there a way to do a load test without having to take the battery out? I hope its not the alternator...I am going to assume its the liquid cooled one.... Thoughts?
  18. No, I didn't have to. There is a great write up on rennlist "here is your clunking noise"
  19. Thanks Loren as always! Just a quick question because I haven't looked yet and I couldn't find 24 69 19 (Removing and Installing Oxygen Sensor) in my manual. I have been trying to find it and its not in the exhaust section. I believe the connector is is on the passenger side left/under the air pump but the actual sensor can it be reached on top or does it have to be removed from under? Thanks!
  20. Hey everyone, I plugged in my Durametric and I am getting the following error code. P0032 HO2S heater control circuit bank 2 sensor 1-no signal/communication, test conditions are not completed, fault is currently active and causing a etc light. How do I track down what's causing it and fix?
  21. Hey guys, changed my battery under the drivers seat and turned on the car and the triangle Psm light came on. Hooked up the durametric and no codes. Decided to do a full clear code, restarted the car same light..... Any suggestions?
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