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working4it
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Posts posted by working4it
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No, I wish I would have though...was so focused on the alternator. I had a coolant leak after a few days a found the plastic T(coolant return line out of alternator) had a crack. Of course you can't just order the T had to order the whole coolant hose (948-106-050 plus the neck 948-106-561). Another pain in the a$$.
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When it runs, hook up a multi-meter at the battery jump points in the engine bay and read out the volts. Anything under 12.5 is most likely the alternator or a control module. Are getting the same error codes? My car would run until the battery would die down, you old actually see the volts drop as the battery drained. With the duramtric I had an issue with usb driver but after reinstalling that it worked. Pm me and I will send you the shop procedure to change the alternator.
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Thanks Loren. I will try it. I assume I just have to take off the drivers seat battery and not both?
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Hi all,
Well after I replaced a bad battery and alternator I am still throwing codes. I cleared using my Durametric, drove a few days and tested again. Still having the same codes appear. Any suggestions?
470 CAN comfort in single wire operation. Open circuit, test conditions are not complete. Fault is currently active and is not causing DTC.
907. Load management operation on vehicle sys/dme control module. No additional fault status available, test conditions not completed. Fault is currently active and not causing a DTC
778. Steering angle sensor (no description)
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Well, finally had some time to put everything back on, replace the vent line and oil pressure sensor. Started right up and is now putting out 13.8 volts. Took the old alternator to AutoZone and bench tested it and it wouldn't put out any volts. Additionally, I checked the codes with the durametric and have a couple of weird codes. I cleared them and will drive around for a bit and re check. My local dealer quoted 7 hours of labor plus $899 for the alternator. Its definitely a pain but well worth it.
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Just for clarification...what socket? Are you referring to the Pin connectors and what fuse # was blown.
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While I was doing the alternator I figured I might as well do some other maintanence. Replaced the belt and tensioner, cleaned the maf, and new filters.
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Double check the connector plug from the car. Its at ther very back of the tray. Mine wiggled its way lose from taking in/out and i zip tied mine together along with a pair of new bulbs and it seems to have fixed my dipped beam.
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Procedure:
Disconnect Both batter cables (negative)
Remove Right wheel
Remove Right wheel housing liner
Remove undercarage covers
Remove air cleaner houseing/tubing
Remove Air cleaner box
Remove Drive Belt
Remove ALternator/Generator impact bracket (3 bolts)
Clamp off coolant inlet/outlet
Unscrew ground lead
Unhindge fastening clips
Unscrew coolant lines (star bit) 1 screw on each outlet/inlet. Pull plastic coolant plugs out. Making sure you have the O rings
Remove Alternator protective cap
Unplug connector plug
Unbolt 3 bolts holding alternator 2 side 1 on top
Spend 45 minutes trying to work its way out the side wheel well through the opening from the air cleaner box. You onl have an extra MM of clearence.
Reverse.......
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Update
After clearing the codes, charging, checking the batter connections, i decided to drive it to work. About half way to work the volt meter dial jumped to 13.5. On the way home it was down to about 11.8 so something is going on. Plugged in the durametric and these codes appeared.
Vehicle Electrical System
Current Fault Codes 70: Starter battery voltage (second battery) - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 668: Vehicle voltage terminal 30 - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 907: Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module - No additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1320: Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1299: Gateway - Please read out fault memory, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 2196: Terminal 30 fuse for vehicle electrical system control module - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light -
I have a Duramteric but don't recall it checking the VES? Only related electrical components. Is there a way to test the alternator and specifically the VES? Additionally is the VES something we can change?
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So tell me more about the Ves? Never heard anyone talk about it before
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Update #2
Charged the battery, cleared all codes to be safe, started car and used my multi-meter from the battery terminals and only pulling 12.4volts. I am going to assume the alternator. Anyone change theirs?Loren do you happen to have the procedure to change the Alternator? My generic manual only refers to "see 99 20" -
UpdatePulled both batteries and went to AutoZone to get them tested. The newly replaced front seat battery (Aug this year) tested good but critically low, the subwoofer battery tested good with a good charge. I am trickle charging the seat battery now.
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Hey all,Well, while driving home from work today MY04S displayed a message "Electric Load Shut Off". Here's the thing I had all kinds of screwy messages a few months back and my battery under the front seat was bad and replaced it with a new. Haven't tried pulling any codes but could it be a bad battery or the battery in back? Is there a way to do a load test without having to take the battery out? I hope its not the alternator...I am going to assume its the liquid cooled one.... Thoughts?
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No, I didn't have to. There is a great write up on rennlist "here is your clunking noise"
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Thanks Loren as always! Just a quick question because I haven't looked yet and I couldn't find 24 69 19 (Removing and Installing Oxygen Sensor) in my manual. I have been trying to find it and its not in the exhaust section. I believe the connector is is on the passenger side left/under the air pump but the actual sensor can it be reached on top or does it have to be removed from under?
Thanks!
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Hey everyone, I plugged in my Durametric and I am getting the following error code. P0032
HO2S heater control circuit bank 2 sensor 1-no signal/communication, test conditions are not completed, fault is currently active and causing a etc light.
How do I track down what's causing it and fix?
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Thanks guys, as always your right. Drove a bit and it went away
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Hey guys, changed my battery under the drivers seat and turned on the car and the triangle Psm light came on. Hooked up the durametric and no codes. Decided to do a full clear code, restarted the car same light..... Any suggestions?
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Here is the part number 955-572-710-00
Part #?
in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
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Maybe I missed it but a quick look I didn't see it. Its in there somewhere
www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/9PA_USA_KATALOG.pdf