DaveCarrera4S

I tried the power steering stop leak as well.  3 months later I had Pentosin leaking down the back and over the bumper.  I found a better solution and started a company to provide it to fellow turbo owners...

Or you can download them here:  http://rennkit.com/home/service-manual/

I doubt it - the rams are shorter, thus the syringes in the pump assembly are probably of different volume as well.

I'm surprised the moderator allows a brand new poster to create a new thread and put an obvious ad in for a product complete with web address and logo.  This thread was an obvious attempt to advertise a product.  He did the same thing on Rennlist with his post #1.

Anyhow thanks for the props Michael.

 

If the tire sizes are exactly equal, there is no shear at the VC coupling, hence minimal drag, or lock up.  If there is a front to rear bias in outer diameter of the tire, then the VC silicone fluid is shearing - and causing some low % of lock up.  Smaller rear diameter causes transfer of power to the front.  smaller front diameter causes drag on the engine at steady cruise speed.  Disclaimer, I was an engineer at a major silicone fluid manufacturer in Germany for 13 years of my career...

I've never known an engineer to be so cavalier about precision, In the spirit of the forum it would have been helpful if you'd just answered the question .....

 

Are you serious?  Engineers make decisions every day about precision, and how much is needed.   Unbelievable comment - obviously from a non-engineer.

Speedometer?  I've never had a Porsche that was accurate with speed.  I don't worry about it, but others may want to have the speedometer close to actual.. ha ha

Working on getting them on my Rennkit site.

You can find the factory troubleshooting guide at the bottom of this page:  http://rennkit.com/why-factory-set-fails/

Good luck.

If the tire sizes are exactly equal, there is no shear at the VC coupling, hence minimal drag, or lock up.  If there is a front to rear bias in outer diameter of the tire, then the VC silicone fluid is shearing - and causing some low % of lock up.  Smaller rear diameter causes transfer of power to the front.  smaller front diameter causes drag on the engine at steady cruise speed.  Disclaimer, I was an engineer at a major silicone fluid manufacturer in Germany for 13 years of my career...

I bought a set.  Will report back on my experiences with installation.

I've had some experience with Matt at Eisenbuds 303-825-0322, installing my eRam spoiler hydraulics replacement kit.

I have to agree - and I'll be kind here - the air filter replacement is a very difficult job.  the housing design leaves much to be desired.

Ahsai, this is VERY helpful.  Black wires it is.  You can see what I've been up to here:  www.rennkit.com

occasionally - few times a year.  more blue-whiteish.  Both sides far as I know.

I tried the cheapo's from China a few times...  last a few months then dim.  Worthless.  I'd be up for some nice super bright long lasting LED's if they existed.

I don't have the turbo wiring diagram. Can you tell us how much current you plan to draw? On my N/A 996, the O2 sensor wires are quite accesible. The black O2 wire carries the switched +12v. Not sure if your turbo is similar.

Ahsai, this is for my eRam kit's eBox or electronic box that fools the spoiler warning system.  It draws less than an amp.  currently I pull +12V from the charging stud next to the oil filter.  would rather it connect up to switched power.

bump - there are some wires by the back right motor mount to the right of the airbox inlet.  Anybody have a clue what they are.  Anybody have a wiring diagram they can share?

"The old S02s, if anyone still remembers those, were infinitely worse. Ride quality is what it is. Better than the Pilot Sports but that's not saying much."

Huh??

A.  I am really liking my Bridge S04's, are they that much better than the S02's you reference?

B.  Most people think the PS's are fantastic -

??

Too late.  Wheel changed out.  Was a 10 minute job, with an hour or two of various preparations.  Pelican parts had the closest DIY on it.

Slightly off topic, I wonder what causes these to fail?  I'm pretty sure mine are original and I have 90K miles on the car.  It lived in San Diego, then here in MI for 2 years.  Wonder if it was a bad batch from the mfg, or excess heat (e.g. TX, AZ, etc.)??

Hi All, reserecting an old thread, did a search couldn't find anything else, though I suspect it's out there.  need a DIY procedure for swapping out a 996TT steering wheel.  Have same 3 spoke wheel with thicker padding and want to install it.  The links to pdf's above are all broken.  Anybody have a good procedure?  Nothing on youtube, can't seem to find much.

Start the car and see what doesn't work.  Maybe the emergency flasher?

Well, the ECU is looking for current flow from the limit switches when the wing is told to go up or down.  Normally, with wing down, the bottom switch is closed and the top open.  When the wing goes up, the bottom is open and the top closed.  That said, some have had luck jumpering the top switch.  Another site that sells fixed height kit recommends hooking the gray/brown switch wire (not sure if this ends up being the blue or gray one, but further up it is gray/brown) with the yellow/green motor wire (probably the black one, but further up on the harness it is yellow green).  There may be a difference between 2001 and later years, but I've seen both wiring diagrams and cannot find anything.

I'm looking for a positive feed, either switched or unswitched.

One option is the plus lead from the alternator. Any others?

Fixed. Connectors not fully seated. Now they are and all is well.