Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

racerken

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by racerken

  1. Update: 13 laps at Nürburgring and I heard some clunking in the rear and tire strike to the front Left inner fender lining. The problem: I installed Bilstein B8's which require a sport spring so I opted to use the Porsche 030 sport springs. It's not a match. This is the spring at No Load. This is the spring at static load. You can see that the lower coil loops over the Spring Stop. Perhaps the Porsche Spring Stop, or whatever that collar is called, is wider? After discussing with Bilstein and some track shops, they all recommended the 'Intended Match' as the Eibach Pro Kit Springs. So I ripped everything apart and re-installed the Eibach Springs. Unintentional contact: This explains the clunking... Look at the height difference. Installed... I was too lazy to take photos of the front springs... but you get the picture - Always go with the mfg recommendations. I left out the boot because it looks cool, I can clean them, and when they are toast, I'm upgrading to coil overs. While I was in there, I installed Steel braided brake lines and the center radiator. Note: I purchased this spring compressor back many years ago for about $300 and I can say that this is one of the most useful tools in my set. BTW, it's an X3 strut/spring. Now I have to wait until the snow melts.... Nothing else to fix. (for now)
  2. Thank you, Sir! I really enjoyed the 'almost' ten months of going full blown OCD on my 997. In case anyone is wondering if it's worth it? It is, but only you'll know. My only 'I forgot' was to adjust my headlights due to the change in suspension height which determined this evening... Wife did not appreciate the stiff ride at all!!!! BTW, someone wrote in some blog about Meyle components... they are fine and all the aero parts on the front links simply clip w/o an issue. I used a hair dryer to soften prior to clipping. Rotors and pads are ATE.
  3. So I finally received the front struts, installed, checked by Porsche Zentrum, received a TüV Certificate! My feedback on the 030 Sports Suspension swap with Bilstein B8's. This is a track car, not for the soft spined street driver. If you like to really push it hard and learn that this car is better than you are, do it. I'm really enjoying it. That said, I doubt I can drive more than 3 hours without an Aspirin stop. Plan A is now to take some lessons at Nürburgring!
  4. Hey WTL, I had a bad boot so I just yanked both axles out, bought the boots, and swapped them out. Easy. Since you seem OCD, after you do this, you'll sleep better at night. This is a photo of the unit after spending an hour wire brushing it. I don't have pictures of the boot swap but it looks alot faster with the rust gone, fresh paint. Rust removal attempt on-car. FAil. Remove both side. Appled paint remover... no impact since they used some paint which resists chemical. OCD Clean Once cleaned, I removed the boot/replaced it. Just get the proper (Out) circlip/clamp plier or the clip will fly.
  5. Well, I suffered 'while you're in there' syndrome... I discovered that all of my cooling system hoses, couplings, and tubes were rusted so I removed them but in doing so I decided to remove practically everything except the steering unit. This is the price you pay for enjoying drifting in the snow! It was worth it! I then discovered Dry Ice Blasting so all of the re-usable components were blasted clean. Next, I painted everything with a under body paint. (masked off all of the mating surfaces). The bearing pressed in easily as I heated the wheel housing to 100C and froze the bearing over night. So now I'm off to put things back together! The only challenge was figuring out how to align the cross-over tubes which have to be inserted after the cross member/steering gear are in place... My rear struts (the reason for all of this) are still on back order... I also discovered that I need B8's to match the lower spring height of the i030 suspension setup... I discovered this when the spring was loose during a test fit. Anyway, B6 vs. B8: B6 is for normal suspension, normal spring height, B8 is for lower spring height, Damping is the same, B8's have the proper spring pre-tension. Oh well... B6's are on ebay.
  6. Hi WTL, In my case, I already had a leaking shock so replacement was a must. The suspension bushings were all showing wear so that snowballed everything down to the rotors/pads, etc. I just thought, what the heck, I've been driving this car since '09, why not try something fresh. Further, I want to take this car on the Nürburgring so that was the deciding factor. If you google Bilstein mono-tube, you'll get some interesting reading. I've attached on document. As for Springs/bars/tower mounts, I just thought, the Sports Suspension should do the trick. Who knows. I did notice that almost all of the joints were loosey goosey at 60k miles with most driven on Michigan potholes/cracks so everything was toast. After taking everything apart the strut tower bearings was invaded by rocks so it was probably a few 10k miles away from failure, same with the wheel bearings. Bilstein_Brosch_Wewa_GB_2013_0807_low.pdf
  7. Germany has been on lock-down so I decided to swap the standard suspension I029 with the Sports Suspension I030 and Bilstein B6 mono-tube struts. Scope creep and OCD kicked in because I thought if I'm replacing the front sway bar to I030, lots of things are coming off. Most everything just falls off with a socket or a wrench but I ran into a stuck lock-nut on the tie-rod so I purchased a nut-cracker. They work great. What really shocked me was when watching Youtube videos on people removing the wheel hub or bearings, they just seem to drop out or fall off with a simple puller. In my case this was not happening so I went down this rabbits hole of total DIY. Purchased: Bilstein B6 Fr/Rr (rears don't arrive until Feb so I started dismantling the Fr) Porsche FR/FR springs/swaybars Meyle control arms/track arms (all) *** bearings (I could feel the rumbling) Plus, what the heck, I'm in there so... hydraulic Nut cracker for the tie rod lock nut. These are great! Large 3-prong puller Small 3-prong puller Bearing separator Bearing puller set 20T hydraulic press 36mm crow foot socket (for the tie rod) C-channel to mount the wheel housing 40mm x 100mm rod to push the wheel hub out 60mm x 100mm rod to push the bearing out Self Portrait. Bare. Return line has a small leak so I'm also going to replace all of the hoses while it's all visible. 20T Press. Chinesium, 234 euros and it works great after topping off fluid and bleeding the system. Post usage: I can't believe how simple life can become with a press! 40mm x 100mm rod to press the wheel hub out. cost 20 euros on ebay. Wheel hub out. Manometer measured 2Tons before breaking lose. Setup for the Inner Bearing Race. It took 5 Tons to break lose. 80mm x 100mm rod for final push out. Bearing is 80mm length so it's a long drive. This is the last item to detach.... Bearing inner race half that is up against the wheel hub shaft. I used this clamp to finally remove the race. I guess these are the steps you don't see on Youtube. It's amazing what you can get addicted to when bored at home in lock-down.
  8. I'll check tomorrow at PZ but I gave him 997 343 531 24 504 per a 2016 list I had and he informed me that it was superceded to ... again, I'll check. I guess, in a pandemic, this is this is great for 'having something to do'. Thanks.
  9. Yes, it's Yellow. I just found a page but no confirmation... Spring color codes and compensating plates - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Spring color codes and compensating plates - I just had a broken rear spring, suddenly in the morning (actually heard it snap walking by the garage door, go figure...) Anyway, I got a new OEM set of rear springs matching my 06 4S PASM, Manual Coupe. Spring code... This image mentioned White or Yellow = 0.5mm, which to me is... really negligible.
  10. Update on this. i decided to go with B6's and to upgrade the coils and sway bars to i030 which is the sport suspension. The Rear B6's are on back-order so I won't see it until Mid-January. I received my Fronts and I ordered the i030 Coils p/n: 997 343 531 43 504. I noticed that the Color Identification for the Compensating Plate is: A (lower one): 2 x Silver marks. B (upper one): 1 x Yellow mark. My manual only lists: (anything but Silver/Yellow) I know I'm in hack space but does anyone know what compensation I should use for the i030 sport suspension coil? Thanks, in the end, I might just take a wild guess, after all it's only 3mm off. Thanks!!!
  11. 997.1 2008 non-sport suspension 100k KM I was under my car to replace the starter cable and shocks. I noticed that the rubber bushing on the upper and lower control arms or Wish Bone or Querlenker(DE) have rubber separation. Is this normal? No issues driving. Thanks! Ken
  12. Note: I used a hair dryer to loosen up the plastic tabs which made lifting the cable out of the cable tray a 10 minute job without removing the generator. After I pulled out the starter cable, I noticed it looked pretty darn new... About 10k ago I had the motor rebuilt... I just translated the receipt. "Pluskabelstrang erneuern" translates to "Renew positive wiring harness". Ha, now I know what that means. At least, now I know how to replace the starter cable...
  13. @Loren, thanks for the update! I just discovered: 029 is no damptronic, 475 is with damptronic. I'm getting a headache reading Bilstein B4 vs B6.. B4 seems like rock stock and B6 seems like the sport suspension but I'm wondering if: 0. Just swallow and replace both rears with struts from Porsche. 1. swap both rears to B4 and do nothing else, hope that it is rock stock so the car still feels the same with the Front oem's. 2. go scope creep, replace F/R with B6... then I need to worry about the springs... doesn't sound like the proper path since everything is stock on this car. Any comments? suggestions? anyone done this?
  14. I was changing my oil/filter and discovered that one of my rear struts was leaking fluid. Question: Should I go OEM or 'OEM' replacement. The oem p/n is 997 333 051. When I look up this part in Autodoc.de I get this: Bilstein B6 high perf. shock abs. 24-118224. Does anyone know if Bilstein provides oem to Porsche/997? Has anyone installed these? Any advice? Thanks! Ken
  15. True that. To support this statement, I hereby claim that over filling your oil will cost you 15k for motor overhaul. (overhaul took place about 20k after the AOS replacement) It was the dumbest thing I've done in my life besides getting married and having children that went to college to basically spend a GT3. As for German owners manual, they never are joking. You basically own a motor that is designed to be reving above 3k rpm all day long.
  16. On my old motor, it used to burn so much oil that I thought I'd add just alittle bit more... Really stupid of me. I blew up the Air Oil Separator, oil entered the cylinder - beginning of the death of my motor - I think. Had to drop the motor to replace a $100 component. It was probably one of the strong contributors to my motor giving up it's life.
  17. Hi, I had the same issue. It ended up being a loose Headlight Angle sensor. Perhaps a quick look?
  18. Update: I gave up and had the motor re-built. Turned out that the ceramic coating in the cylinder gave way (apparently common here)... Now it's an Autobahn Screamer for the last 12 months.
  19. Sir, you are missing out on 4-wheel slides and ultra motor performance due to low temperature, dense air. You are A1 about N rated tires!!!
  20. I moved to Germany with my 997 and recently purchased the 'Porsche' approved winter tire wheels and tires (not MS). Here, if you deviate from OEM: if you get pulled over for any reason, you get a 200 euro or so ticket, if you get into an accident, you are immediate to blame and insurance is not valid - you're screwed. I'm sure there are arguments to not go OEM or to go OEM. All i can say is that on the autobahn the other day, i was flying at about 200 km (dry but cold) and had to panic break, an entire pack (front and rear) all stopped in time with 2 m between cars. We all had reflexes and winter tires. in your case, since you don't drive very fast in the US, just get good advice from someone that knows the suspension swing and required clearance. That said, wide for snow is not necessarily good.
  21. update: the driver side tailpipe does get black. i do burn 1 liter/1000 km's. When driving around town, there is very little oil loss. When driving on the autobahn (Stuttgart to Frankfurt @ 200 - 220 km/hr) and I'm downshifting, say 7k down to 5k, i do burn at 1 liter/800 km's. I recently changed my driving habits to not downshift but rather to use brakes. Anyway, the burn rate is down to .7 liter/1000 km's. As for the oil loss, it all started after the AOS failure. perhaps so much oil got sucked in that the rings or something overstressed during the compression stroke? (oil is incompressible). Second idea: I never drove this car as hard as I am now so I'm probably discovering how this monster is really supposed to behave, i.e., goes really fast, drinks oil when driving aggressively. Makes sense too. If anyone is visiting Stuttgart, be sure to visit the Porsche Museum and this place called Motorworld in Boblingen. PM if you have questions.
  22. I had similar problems with rats and squirrels and used peanuts + anti-freeze + water to rid them all. It worked.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.