srfrdrew

Just to add note, the top stopped working several weeks after installing the new Battery, it is possible I have a small electrical vampire in the system or more likely this issue is more mechanically related than electrical,  Any additional advise is greatly appreciated.

Just an update, I noticed that my battery was dated from 2014 so I thought it may be a good idea to replace (for good measure) and maybe resolve the opening of the top issue.

IT DID! (for now)

I'm hopeful that this was the fix, but not sure if this was indeed the root cause or if there is something failing downstream inside the clamshell...

Any comments greatly appreciated.

Hi Patrick

How did you isolate that is was indeed the motor and what parts you needed (Clamshell motor?, etc) Part numbers you are using?

Can you take some pics etc, I would assume you and I are not the only ones with cabrio top issues.

Thanks so much for your assistance!

Hello all, recently having issue with the convertible top not opening...

2001 Porsche C2 Cabriolet.

The windows roll somewhat

the roof hatch unhooks

after that roof light flashes

The side wings nor the clamshell actuate or go up.

Any assistance would be appreciated.  I did read something about drain holes getting clogged in the boot or engine compartment.

Thank you all in advance.

Hi Loren, hope all is well... Back online ? ... Need to get my Code for my CDR 220 please and thank you!

serial 15075045

So I finally thing I have the answer to this issue.

there is a brake "switch" that is a known issue with this part that goes bad on these years 996's 

Its a $15.00 part but need to open up front and center console to get access to parking handbrake to replace this part.

Any DIY on how to properly remove center console to get at the switch? 

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the suggestion...

-  Cable to the rear wing for those lights - best inspect it for corrosion or damage.

>>>Do you have the schematic or diagram not sure where to look and what areas would be susceptible or in question?

- has the wing been changed out or is the factory stock wing

>>>>The wing has not been changed out and IS indeed the factory wing. A note that I did replace, successfully, one of the plastic pistons a year or so ago (no runs, no hits and no errors at that time), but the issues now discussed above seemed to be recent (discovery)

Hello, hoping someone can help me out....

2001 996 2 cab.  

There are TWO rear "third" brake lights one set in body and one set in wing.

The one set in body is completely dark and not responding when applying the brakes.  The one set in wing works and responds.

I tested the one set in body in the wing spot and works and tested the known good wing light into the body and went dark and did not respond

Also for good measure I replaced all FOURTEEN bulbs since I was already knee deep in this.

So I ruled out issue with light fixture.   It looks like the issue is the actually at electrical connection/connector.  Anyone had this issue and could lead me to a solution?

I have not tested the cruse control as of yet nor checked the fuses, however, the rest of the brake lights work normally.

I might want to add that I've had the rear wing red "light" staying on on the dashboard and not going off and I believe the rear wing is not actuating properly as well, not sure if there is relation here.

Thank you in advance for your input.

I replaced mine several years ago, happy with the product

http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/index.php

Hello all, just concluding this topic.. back in 2014.  Sorry for delay...

I was able to resolve this issue after looking at the sensors.  You need to make sure after servicing the the spoiler gear assembly, when putting the sensors back into the assembly, you will need to make sure you hear

the confirmation "click" that the sensors are set back into assembly correctly.  When I first put them back in, I did not hear this "click" and the spoiler malfunction mentioned is the result.

So just an update, sorry for the delay on response....

(hey dgjks6, nice to hear from you hope all is well!)

It just so happens a day or so after my last post, the top is now retracting and closing normally.

My only thought is that after washing, there may have been some water infiltration into the rear engine/top housing/assembly affecting the the electrical/operation of the top.

At this time, we are back in business but a bit perplexed.

Regards

FYI also wanted to add that this issue happened a day or so after washing the vehicle.  Not sure if water had any affect but wanted to 

relay this as a coincidence?

Hello... To follow up on your follow up

kbransma -

Q:Does the light on the dash come on when the emergency brake is set?

A: YES, it flashes

roadrunner68 - 

Q:Its probabbly a snapped cable, happened twice on my Boxster.

A:  Hmmm, did you have the exact symptoms?  Where do I check the cable?

jjb7

Q: check all the microswitches. Most likely the left or right flaps. there is a lid "locked" microswitch.

A:  I have heard about the microswitch issue.. Where do I find them and what am I looking for?

I would obviously like to fix on my own, not sure what parts and work is entailed compared to just getting if fix by dealership

Hello all,

Hoping to find some help on this issue.  I've done a bit of research on the subject and so far no resolution.

My 2001 996 Cabriolet top is not retracting into a open position.  I guess if its stuck, better in the closed position for now :thumbup:

I have tried the recommended "easy" fixes to see if I can resolve and none worked.  Tried resetting hand brake, open and closed rear deck lid .... no success.

When trying to operated the roof switch, I hear a couple of clicks in the back engine bay area and the red light for the top on the dashboard blinks...

Any suggestions?

Bump?

Does anyone have to borrow, rent or sell (at reasonable price) the "Centering Tool" Part 9680  (MFG # 00072196800) ?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2004-Cayenne-955-Turbo-Sport_Utility-V8_4.5L/Drivetrain/Tools/ES1355999/'

A bit steep $ for the tool, someone should have one out there to borrow?

FYI, tried the non tool centering procedure and now I'm getting a slight hum/vibration/roadnoise like sound now at speeds around 60mph and above..

Did not have this sound/vibration prior to change out of Cardan Shaft.  I did everything to the book (as far as I know)  New Flex Plate (Guibo), match the marks at rear end of shaft to marks on rear differential.

The only thing that I can think of is the centering of the Bearing Support to the Support Plate.  Its a bit witch craft without the "Centering Tool"

Anyone has one and could ship it too my ASAP would be greatly appreciated!  Also, any input on this is also appreciated

Thanks!

Hey Loren!

PM'd you again, if you have a moment please get back to me regarding my request.

Thanks!

Thanks Loren,  replied to your PM with a Q for you

Does anyone have the Torque specs off hand for the Cardan Shaft swap, unable to locate this info anywhere?

It's for the 6 rear triple square bolts

the (3) 18mm nuts and bolts from front of shaft and Ithe (3) 18mm
bolts to the flex plate as well as the carrier bolts as well?

I'm doing the Cardan Shaft swap out right now have not been able to locate the torque specs.

A quick ping back to me is greatly appreicated!

Hey Loren,

If you are out there do you have torque specs for the 6 rear triple square bolts

the (3) 18mm nuts and bolts from front of shaft and Ithe (3) 18mm
bolts to the flex plate as well as the carrier bolts as well?

I'm doing the Cardan Shaft swap out right now have not been able to locate the torque specs

Thanks

Hi Kevin,  Yea I looked at this Macgyver fix.. Not the way I want to go...

I'm going with a Colorado Cardan Shaft rebuild.. I keep hearing only good things about them.. Im a bit leary on the EPS/Vertex rebuilt shaft.

Also, does anyone have the torque specs for all the the forward and aft bolts holding the cardan shaft in place?

Thanks Nacho

bigbuzuki,

I wish you didn't show me the other option, UGH!  they also have it in aluminum too...  I guess this is a "real" permanent fix, removes hanger bearing issue as well as no more flex plate... Hmmm $900 for aluminum and $1400.00 for carbon OUCH though.

Anyone have gone this route? chime in I'm all ears...

Hi Peter,

Thanks for  your response, did you replace your Flex Plate as well?  Did you go OEM or did you get the "upgraded" flex plate that Vertex/EPS offers?

Hello all for another wonderful installment of "Porsche got you Cardan Shafted!"

2004 Porsche Cayenne S with 130k on the ODO.  I purchased my pepper with approximately 50K on the ODO and I don't believe the shaft was ever changed (and if so don't have any verification of when prior to my purchasing)

Getting the classic Clunking on deceleration as well as acceleration, vibration in the cabin, mostly at idle and lower speeds (FYI, checked engine mounts with tech and they looked fine and I changed out the VB recently).  I'm fairly certain I'm getting Cardan Shafted.

NOTE: I'm not going for a "Center Support Solution"  I just want to replace the complete Rear Shaft Assembly as well as the Flex Plate

Question on which re-builder to go with:  EPS / Vertex (I guess they are one and the same company) includes an "upgraded" "softer" flex plate but I've read reviews that their included flex plates are junk and to go with original OEM Porsche Flex Plates?

EPS - http://www.cayennedriveshaft.com/upgraded-drive-shaft-rebuilt

VERTEX - http://www.vertexauto.com/showitem.aspx?&id=253807&name=Porsche%20Cayenne%20Drive%20Shaft%20-%20Rebuilt%20-%20Includes%20Core%20Charge%20of%20%24350.00

COLORADO DRIVE SHAFT - http://www.coloradodriveshaft.com/porsche_cayenne.htm

Your comments and advice are greatly appreciated!