gusmagoo

Yours is a C2, so you won’t have the known issues caused by a split tank that the C4 has, however there are a few anomalies with the readings for fuel which are well discussed if you do a search. If you have a handbook and follow the rule of thumb they advise you shouldn’t have any problems, if you do, your sender might be at fault. Fill up as soon as possible after the warning light comes on, and don’t try and squeeze every last ounce into the tank once the fill nozzle knocks itself off. The fuel gauge indicator gives an estimate of mileage left not an accurate figure and if you only put a very small amount of fuel in, the gauge might not move at all, this is normal, as it only registers when filled above a certain level. Despite me saying all this, it does sound like your sender may be at fault. A good indie will be able to replace this. Let us know if you sort it out.

Few issues here I feel I have to comment on. Firstly, the yellow mayo stuff at the top of your oil filler pipe is a red herring. They all do that, caused usually by a build up of condensation at the top of the pipe during cold/humid weather or when the car is only used for short journeys. It will probably be less evident during the summer months in a dry climate. Check your water, if there's any oil in that, start to worry. Water in your engine will most likely be identified by plumes of steam exiting your exhaust pipes! Secondly, oil pressure gauges fluctuate, they all do it. Mine is at 4 or 5 when motoring and 2 to 3 when stood still. Don't worry about it. Unless it reads 0 and you have warning lights lit! Thirdly, remember that when measuring your oil level on the dash, you HAVE to have the car on perfectly LEVEL ground. Even the slightest gradient will show too little or too much. I measure mine in my (level) garage before use and (about 15 mins) after use. Additionally I've been advised to always keep my engine oil FULL. Each bar represents about 200 ml so filling up is easy to work out. These are all things I've picked up from various sources and have accepted and adopted as my opinion so if you disagree with any of it don't shoot me, if there's any doubt about a symptom you have get it to a decent independent (or the OPC if you're desperate) ASAP. The suggestion of a borescope inspection of the cylinders is a good one, this could be piston slap due to scored cylinder liners and the borescope will find that. For what it's worth, If my car had that loud a knock, I wouldn't run it, it would be being recovered to the repairers right now. When you find the cause, please let us all know! Good luck!

Have you done this yet as i'm fitting the second cubby in mine this weekend, Pics would also be cool and an explaination how you wired it...

They all do it mate, don't worry about it, you've just got a bit of the classic "porsche paranoia" Ask your mechanic next time it's in for a service. If it reads 0 and you have a warning light on then start to worry, otherwise, enjoy! :)

Yep! Plus one on this one! My wind shield has a number of stone chips and has a sand blasted appearance in certain lighting conditions. No amount of cleaning makes any difference and my Mercedes C220 was even worse! Must be a German car trait! The solution for me will eventually be to repace the screen as the roads over here in the UK mean that before long I'll have a cracked wind shield and will be able to then have it replaced under my insurance scheme. The excess is usually only about 50 UK pounds and it doesn't affect your no claims bonus... :beer:

Thanks PorscheFever, and welcome to the forum! I’ve still not had the car in for its promised service and check over so I’m none the wiser, but me and a few buddies have come to a similar conclusion. It’s got to be either the cable or possibly the shift tip selector lever which, I think, is part of or near to the gearbox? Or at least attached to it in some way…And has been highlighted as a problem before… I hope you sort your problem soon, and let us know on here maybe? I’ll be sure to post a full run down of the solution when I’ve done the deed. Best wishes, Gus… :thankyou:

Ah I see, for some reason, it has been suggested that this is not normal by a few people over here in the UK. I hadn't noticed it before, and thought perhaps it should only rise if the system was OVER pressurized, possibly highlighting a problem. If Loren says it's normal, thats good enough for me. I will question my friendly UK forum members for some clarification on this one! I will drive it happily this weekend and as usual, keep an eye on my temperatures and fluid levels. Many thanks for your help everyone. :thankyou:

Hi everyone, Quick question, I've recently noticed that the black plunger type relief valve (the one with a sort of spring clip on it) located just forward of the water reservoir cap on my 2004 C2 tiptronic appears to rise when the engine is at normal running temperature (as if open) and falls back down again when it's cooled down. I'm not losing any water (that I can see anyway) the car has no visible leaks and never goes higher than 82 degrees on the temperature gauge. I'm led to believe that this shouldn't be happening and am not sure if it is safe to drive this weekend. My water level appears to be steady midway between Min and Max whith a cold engine, and rises a little when warm. Can any one suggest a reason for this rise and fall, (of the valve) and is it safe for me to drive the car? No other warning lights or issues to the best of my knowledge, thanks in advance.

Thanks very much RFM for that info BUT I’ve been told that the shift was re designed for the later cars and there isn’t any rectangular box on the side from about 02 onwards. However If I find that there is one I will surely update the post and carry out the service. Once again, thank you for your input…. :thankyou:

Hey there Dirtydonki! The reality here is that as yet I've done nothing about it, apart from change my shifting style to get the car to do what I want every time, which is positively engage in each position on the gate. This isn't an ideal fix but till I actually determine what the problem is I can't really give an answer here…it's such an uncommon problem (I too have had problems finding any relevant posts). My next move will be to clean and freshly lubricate the lever and all moving parts under the shift cover then attempting to lubricate the cable. Currently I suspect this is being caused by a seizing/sticky/dirty cable, or the Tiptronic gear linkage seizing. My symptoms can now be "demonstrated" by me slowly attempting to go from D to R. This nearly always doesn't work, and I get the shift not selected message sometimes too. A quick jolt towards park then back into R makes it work every time. Reading past history I discovered a line saying "free off lube and adjusts seized tipo gear linkage" from 2006. When selecting P, I take my finger off the gate button and positively slide it into P which has seemed to prevent the no starts. It's not an ignition problem, I'm convinced of that. As previously said I'll report back when I've discovered more. (It's a weekend car). If you learn any more do let us know! Cheers, Gus… ;) PS my original post on this issue is also worth a read, and can be found here.... http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=59468&highlight=engage+park

I’m afraid they all over read speed but only by a fraction. They are meant to for reasons touched upon above (so I've been told) Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it. Just look at your sat nav if you want a more accurate speed but why would you? As for tyres, whatever the stock size is for the wheels that came with the car, assuming that the wheels are original to that car are the ones you should stick with. That’s what years and years of research finally settled on and in a car capable of post 150 mile an hour speeds you’re only risking killing yourself if you start meddling with the setup. You might also invalidate your insurance. Just live with it.

Might be worth checking that the mirror is seated correctly in its housing. If the lugs holding it in have popped out in some way the mechanism might think it’s fully returned when it hasn’t. But now that I’m saying it, would it allow you to adjust it further if it had popped out? Not sure…

We've seen these here in the UK and discussed them at length including a survey to see how many people like them! Checkout this post on 911uk.com and see what you think. http://www.911uk.com...pic.php?t=60470 You can also get a modified version to accomodate the headlight washers. If you study the pictures where they've been fitted to pre and post facelift cars it is clear to me that they look daft on pre facelift (996.1) cars as the mould clearly follows the design on the 996.2 facelift cars and the pre facelift design is different. ( IE the indicators particularly look obscured by the covers) as can be seen here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=48&t=848422&mid=0 and here http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/techart-headlight-covers-washers-porsche-9901-p-13462.html I personally think they look OK on a dark colored facelift car, but wouldn't want them on my own car. I'm not a mod man.

After 1600 miles of driving since purchase the symptoms have now changed slightly. The starting issue (or lack of cranking) still happens but not as often. Now when moving the shift from drive to reverse, the dashboard light makes a clear positive move to R, but the gear does not seem to engage and no beep from the parking sensors, this happens mainly if I do it slowly, the shift seems to be in the correct position but the car fails to engage Reverse, presumably remaining in N (the next nearest position that it goes through to reach R) Occasionally the “in-between gears” or something, warning pops up on the dash but that’s usually because its half way through a move (whilst performing this action slowly) The problem is quickly solved by either positively moving the shift (rather than doing it slowly) or by firstly putting in P THEN moving it into R, it always works when you do it like that. The reverse gear then happily engages and the reverse “beep” sounds for my parking sensors… 1. Does this sound like a position sensor fault? 2. Where is the position sensor? 3. Do we have a part number for it? 4. Is there a possibility that it could be the cable itself that is worn, seizing or misadjusted? If so can someone please tell me the part number for that too. Thanks for your patience and help. PS Im not sure now how "free" the shift is supposed to be, this being my first Porsche, it just seems normal, should it move freely with say, thumb and first 2 fingers? In addition to above latest symptoms I've just noticed that at 30k miles four years ago it has the following work done. "free off, lub and adjust seized tipo gear linkage" Does anyone think this might be the cause of the above symptoms yet again? Thanks in advance for you're suggestions...

Thanks Den, on reflection i'm pretty sure it wont let me go into reverse from neutral, (I didnt try that because I was afraid of forcing something, it seems alien to go from N to R without my foot on the brake in any instance! Habit I guess!) My point was that you could get into N from D or R without the brake depressed. That alone was what i wasn't sure about... Thanks a million for all your help, kingd regards Gus... :thankyou: