perry190

They are stuck on with double sided tape (firmly) I managed to lever up one end and then use a screw driver to lever the rest up, using a cloth pad under the screw driver to ensure no scratching of the paint.

might help if you heat them to aid the glue release

As Loren said I assumed you were talking about the whole piece not just the central panel. theres no wiring or hole under it tho matey

just returned from the independant after having the new power steering pump fitted, took them 3 hours in the end, and yes you've guessed it the sound is still there!

Their latest diagnosis is that its the belt tensioner at a cost of £29 and about 40 mins to stip/fit.

we havnt discussed payment yet until I return to have the tensioner fitted (due tomorrow lunch) but I'm assuming the £29 tensioner is going to now cost me about 600+ inc labour and VAT!

A bit naffed off to say the least :(

just replaced mine with the ally ones and its painted metal, no recess or wiring

hope that helps

took it into an independant today and they had a fiddle about and initially thought it was coming from the engine . but once the covers were off and the poly belt removed the sound went.

it appears to be the power steering pump (£375) he was checking later today to see how much of a job it is to replace as he hasnt had one go before

fingers crossed when I ring him tomorrow it wont be mega labour costs

Having just returned from a rather spirited sprint down to and around st tropez she has developed an annoying rattle that can be heard from inside the drivers side air vent. (UK car)

Initially a rattle appeared when going over some of the bumpy french/italian roads which steadily got more profound, but then it could be heard on tick over from the vent. Its not a 'heavy' knocking as you would expect from inside the engine but more like something has come lose and is catching against a moving part possibly? (rotational)

This caused me concern obviously in case it was a sharp object catching against the polyrib belt or the likes, so I did the return journey at about 80mph rather than the sometimes excessive speeds on the way out (went with a gt Four pushing around 380bhp)

I've checked the heat shields and they seem secure and it seems higher up, anyone had similar symptoms that could give me an indication before I take it in to be checked by an independant?

I'm assuming the rattle at big bumps and the noise at tickover are connected, but of course this may not be the case.

many thanks

P

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my baby

http://www.freewebs.com/perry190/IMG_0133ccc.jpg

most of the options are shown at www.design911.co.uk to give you an idea :)

just tried this on mine after thew windows went funny following the battery being dissconnected for a week (retrim) and it sorted then straight away!

very many thanks for some **** useful info :)

Before I add a wing or aftermarket spoiler I would need some assurance that it was designed and engineered for my car

then the best option would be one of the aerokit wings then as they are designed by porsche for the car?

In the UK your probably best using this spray paint

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8205

A good supplier with next day delivery

I personally would suggest unbolting the calipers and the bolt that holds the brake line in place and merely moving the caliper away to one side, rather than dissconnecting it.

Alternatively you can quite easily mask up the areas you dont want painted or simply remove the pads and disc rather than muck around with your fluids. I've recently renewed the discs and pads on my 2000 'S' and it was one of the easiest cars I've ever worked on for brakes.

I can thoroughly recommend this paint, as being a spray it gives a perfectly smooth factory finish. But obviously try it on test area first to ensure its the finish you want.

hope that helps

Perry

The existing head unit harness goes through a large rubber grommet on the drivers side (UK car) if you put your head down by the fuse box in the footwell and look directly up at the firewall you'll see it going through. They are within the main wiring loom (thick mass of wires)

It then comes out the other side and passes through the secondary bulk head and along behind the carpet to the amp.

hope that helps in some way

thanks matey, that seems very high though?

Thats great, thank you tool pants

well after much struggling and a cup of tea (I am british after all :) ) I managed to remove the pads

Would I be right in thinking that when you replace them you insert the plastic plugs in the holes first, then push the pads on? I'm assuming this then opens out the plugs to hold it all in place?

just wondered as I'm removing my padding today as the seats, cards and padding are going in for a retrim. been tugging at the padding for an hour so far without any joy (afraid of breaking something)

I remember you saying previously that you need a gorilla's arms to pull them off :)

Have just noticed that the garage has put higher pressures in my 19's than specified under the hood for wheel sizes up to 17"

what pressures are you guys with 19's running? are you using stock pressures?

many thanks

P

good point !

I know when i was looking at buying a Noble M12 a lot of the owners were having trouble with the front lip catching on speed humps and the like.

The owners club spoke to Noble about the effects of remving the lip, and they said it didnt have any effect under 120mph! so goes to show a lot of these things are merely cosmetic until you take on a track

Thanks Richard

I did feel it might be like this, my best bet probably is to have it all wired up as normal but have a cut in the power or earth cable to seperate switch. Then when I want to activate the wing I flick my power switch first?

unfortunately this way will require running a wired switch from the boot to the cabin

I saw one of these tops on the road a few weeks back and thought it was a cayman at first. looked really good apart from the side window which didnt seem to blend with the overall look

When I had my aerokit wing fitted the stock auto raising wing was disconnected. This was apparently carried out as the two wings together can form an 'air trap' at speed and it was sggested that the aerokit wing may be ripped off due to excessive drag?

I've since noticed that my rear boot lid is catching the edge of the stock wing in its closed position, so I'm planning to reconnect the stock wing wiring so that I can raise it to remove the cover and make adjustments to the retaining bolts so that it will no longer foul the boot lid.

while I'm reconnecting the wiring on a temporary basis I was wondering if it was possible to connect this back up so that it will raise/lower via the switch on the under side of the dash, but so that it wont automatically raise at the set speeed?

if anyone has carried out such a hack or has an understanding of the wiring relays in question, guidance would be much appreciated

many thanks

Perry

I've not received the little bits to remount the rollbar padding nor the windblock yet.

did the clips break when you removed the padding?

I've just done the front discs and pads (Boxster S)

got the discs/pads from www.gsfcarparts.com in the Uk for £190.35 delivered. they came next day and took about 2 hours to fit including giving everything a good clean and polishing the calipers with wheel wax.

Thanks Tool Pants, much appreciated :)

when doing this how do you go about removing the leather padded parts on the bar, do they just pull off?