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Serg

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Posts posted by Serg


  1. This may be silly but, what was the condition of the bolt?  Was there oil on it, brake dust, tranny fluid.  If there is a lack of such, maybe part of suspension on front end?

     

    edit: last thought (it actually looks like a case bolt from a motorbike to me) ... the color.  Aren't most bolt on the engine a silver tone?  So where are black bolts found?


  2. I thought I would reply to this topic with (what I think is a plausible but highly suspect) resolution:

     

    After taking the car to the dealership and explaining what I had done and what I suspected the problem to be, they had the car for 3 days.  On the 3rd day they contacted me to confirm what I originally told them.  That I suspected that the signal between the pill and the ignition was not talking place.  I had provided them a new fob and blade that I had ordered from an outfit in the UK (members here had stated confirmation of the validity of key blades and fobs from them as operational).  I had indicated that I believed that if they placed the "pill" in the new fob with the new blade (which unlocks the car and lights up the dash lights) and re-flashed the pill that that might be what is necessary.  

     

    And here is where the suspicious side glance comes in:  The service manager stated to me that they were able to get the car started using the pill in the original fob (it was broken - another story) and using pliers to turn the old blade.  BUT that placing the pill in the new fob head with the new blade would not work.  As such I would need a new fob head and blade from the "Fatherland" to the tune of $550.

     

    Though I repeatedly asked if he could explain why the fob head (old and new) would make any different he couldn't; why placing the pill in the original fob and keeping it in the vicinity of the ignition why using the new fob and blade would not work - he couldn't; so now I will wait 4 days for the new key fob and blade from Germany.

     

    I don't know, something fishy in Denmark or am I just over reacting?


  3. Well I tested with a multi meter at the "+" post and at the nut on the starter where the cable that comes from the Alt; there was only a .1v drop from the reading at the battery terminals.  The only thing that I can think of is the pill in the key is not being read.  Have I missed anything?  Thank you every one for your help.   BTW: I did peal back some of the sheath off of the cable at the "+" (where i could) and at the connection at the starter...didn't see any corrosion.  


  4. DBJoe996:  You may have a point from the more I read and from JFP's original post; it could be that what I am hearing is the solenoid but due to restriction in the current the Bendix does not kick in.  With that said, can you tell me where the main junction box is in the engine bay?  Is this were the Y cable is connected up to the battery.  I found a post, but it was a 997, that identified the location as being the right side of the tranny housing for the connection point of the Y cable, yet from your indication of "engine bay" I suspect a different location on the 996.


  5. Judgejon: battery posts are clear and clean as well as the cable connections thereto.  Thx

     

    DBJoe996: New battery after 4 years and old battery was just used up as indicated by testing; replaced with same battery as previous.  The Starter was not over heated, this was on a relatively cold, the starter was bench tested and operated as it should repeatedly.  When in car and ignition is engage the starter does not crank at all but I do hear the hum of electrical current.  The electrical part of the ignition switch was replaced.  Thx.

     

    So to check for corrosion; is the correct procedure to disconnect the neg ground at battery and then check the cable components with multi-meter for a voltage drop by placing a lead on the component and a lead on ground?  At stand no load should the voltage at the battery be roughly 12.7v?  Sorry for my naivete as to electrical issues.

     

     

     


  6. JFP,

     

    While electrical has never been my game, I did visually inspect the Alt/Starter cable when I pulled the starter and there was no corrosion, but I do understand your point about "internal".

     

    As to the "ground" cable in the rear passenger wheel well; I did confirm good contact.  If I could impose, could you please identify any specific locations to check and (I know this gives away my level of ignorance) the methodology? 

     

    Thank you for taking the time for the original reply.

     

    Serg


  7. 1999 Porsche 996 Cabriolet automatic.

     

    Wife drove car to market and when came out tried to start; she turned it over a couple of time with no engagement of start or sound, then it started right up.

     

    When I got home same day I attempted to turn car over; two unsuccessful tries then it start normally.  I tried again and nothing since.

     

    When turning key, there is no hesitation in key movement and no play.

    All dash lights come on EXCEPT the check engine light.

     

    I just replaced battery 3 weeks prior and have had it checked

    I had starter bench tested and it works fine

    I replaced the "RF" signal trans/receiver at the rear of the ignition switch

    I have check all fuses in primary and secondary; replaced the starter relay

     

    The immobilizer has never been wet and the fuse is operational

     

    Symptoms:

     

    when key is engaged in start position - there is an "electrical" sounding hum from the starter area

    I hear nothing in the secondary relay area - but I could be missing it

    The fact that the "check engine" light does not come on makes me uneasy - but I don't know if this is a red flag

    when I put key into door lock and lock and unlock I get one beep and the locks works as it should

    the red led light blinks as it always has, one flash per second or so

     

     

    At wits end on this one.  Any suggestions?  Its scheduled to be towed to nearest deanship Friday (65 mi away)

     

    All I can come up with is that the pill is not being read and must be re-flashed...no I don't have a spare.

     

    Thank you in advance.

     

     

     


  8. Thank you Kbrandsma,

     

    Yes, there was wire and plug in the door, that I plugged into the speaks.  So, I assume that there should be a wire in the front boot area that I would plug into the amp.  Now the questions:

     

    Is there wire from the head unit to the amp that should be in the front boot?  Where would i find it?

     

    What type of amp is needed?  6 way, since there are 6 speakers?

     

    And same question about power to the amp?

     

    Thank in advance.

     

    Sergio


  9. I have a 1999 996 cab.  It has the four regular speakers (front dash, rear seat sides) and the normal Becker 220.

     

    I tried a search on this subject but just found upgrades for those who already have the hifi option in their ride.

     

    I recently came across two door panels with the built in bose speaker set up.  I have taken the old door skins off and see that there is a wire in place for the speaker.  I have installed both door skins plus speakers but when I turn on the radio unit I get not sound and going into the menu I can seem to find a option to access the door speakers.

     

    Is there something I am missing?

     

    Is there no sound going to come from those speakers regardless?

     

    any help would be appreciated.

     

    Sergio


  10. 1999 Carrera: have removed the tire, brake cali, disc, hub and bearing. Did not use the "Porsche" hub/bearing puller. Used a generic puller. Now it's time to put it back together and before I shoot myself in the foot I thought I might ask for some advice.

    Since I am not using the tool that I have seen on my searches on how to do this and I do not wish to spend 200+ in obtaining the tool, but I do wish to save myself from pit falls, I query:

    What is the best method, (without the Porshce tool) to re-install the hub?

    Thank you in advance.

    Sergio


  11. I recently had some vandals do some damage to the rear quarter window and convertible top of my 99 cab. I have replaced the lift arms, the bracket that attaches the top to the body, and the quarter window. It looks like the took a large hammer and just beat the heck out of the rear part of the top causing the frame to twist. So it also looks like I need to find and replace the back frame below the window and the cross member just above the window. Yet having a bit of trouble in finding used replacement parts; I may just have to buy new ones. Until I find those pieces I am just going to put on the hard top and remove the whole convertible top.

    Now the issues: 1. I noticed that, when checking the alignment of the top I pushed the top button to bring up the convertible top, the rear quarter windows went down and now they will not come up. Is there a sequence I need to initiate? I have placed direct power to the motors and they work fine.

    2. Is there an issue with removing the convertible top and using the hard top for a temp. period of time?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Sergio


  12. Thank you Loren,

    From your diagram I may be mistaken as to one of the pieces.

    It looks like "8" is definitely the top arm that I am looking for, but the lower arm, that run under 8 and behind the hub might be item "13" I might be wrong that it was boxed end on both sides. It was dark when I looked and I was looking toward the interior of the area. Does 13 run parallel to 8 but underneath?

    Thanks again.

    Sergio


  13. 1999 cab. Trying to replace the lower and upper right rear control arms. The ones that look like a doublesided box end wrench.

    Question 1. Are the upper n lower the same part?

    2. Are the control arms from left to right side interchangeable?

    3. Considering that these are not "wearable" items; does it matter if I replace with new or used?

    4. Part number? (they are not hear, so I can't just go look)

    Thank you in advance.

    Sergio


  14. 99- 996 with trip.

    With the help of the forum (quick thank you) I was able to determine that I had a bad bearing/idler pully. I have removed the air box and am trying to determine: 1. the correct torque for the attaching bolt on the upper idler, and 2. does it require a specific spanner or wrench, or can i use a common open/box end? Also there was a great video (shows removal of box and how to on the tensioner) when I first looked at how to do this but I have since grown a few days older and cannot remember the search words i used. Any ideas?

    Thank you in advance for your help.

    Serg

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